I just hold the carto and the tip of the awl against it and tap it with the hammer. Haven't had any problems except if I get the hole to big I get flooding. But you all use thicker juice. I have to use 100% PG.
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Just a quick question ... I (as you may know) solved my "flavor" problem, but have a new "issue".
I bought some 801 fushions, punched two holes in it with a saddle valve, and put them in a tank I have. NOTHING. It wouldn't fire ... even put the tank on my ego, and still nothing. Thought I had a "dead" carto so went through the entire process again with a new 801 carto. Again, NOTHING. Can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. The fusions are great if I attach them directly to my IPro ... but will NOT work in my tank. Hum ... strange (I'm starting to think everything I do is a little "strange". ha,ha).
Anyone have this problem before or have any idea what I'm doing wrong? Is it possible that when I'm punching a hole into the fusions ... I'm breaking a wire or something??
Just wondering if anyone has had this happen to them before.
Wow Sandie, you are having a streak of bad luck Did you test these cartos before you put them in the tank? Or did you try pulling them out of the tank and testing them to see if they fire outside of the tank? I don't see how you could break the wire unless you are punching all the way from one side to the other lol.
You have me stumped again!
Did you test these cartos before you put them in the tank? Or did you try pulling them out of the tank and testing them to see if they fire outside of the tank? I don't see how you could break the wire unless you are punching all the way from one side to the other lol.You have me stumped again!
I'm baffled as to this one... The only thing I can think of is a connection issue. Carto not making contact w/top screw??? Dunno.. BUT I'm sure someone w/more experience will come along and figure it out .. Good Luck!
.. Good Luck!
1/4-20 nicely pointed screws are harder to find, but I've got a few coming in to play with It turns out they are used in a random application.
It turns out they are used in a random application.
I'm baffled as to this one... The only thing I can think of is a connection issue. Carto not making contact w/top screw??? Dunno.. BUT I'm sure someone w/more experience will come along and figure it out
Connection issue sounds like that's what it could be ... but cartos working when placed directly onto the IPro (Or eGo) - only not in the tank. Strange ... maybe adapter issue. Well, I'll keep working on it. It's probably a simple fix (again). Ha, ha.
Thanks again to everyone who replied!
Did you get it figured out Sandie? Hoping so.....it does sound like a connection issue but can't imagine how.
OT.......I MADE LARGER HOLES..................... I am VAPING with NO burnt taste.................alas, I might not be the sharpest tack in the box but I'm never DULL 
OT.......I MADE LARGER HOLES.....................
I am VAPING with NO burnt taste.................alas, I might not be the sharpest tack in the box but I'm never DULL
Sandie, where did you buy your 510 to 801 adapter? There is one on Ikenvape's site that doesn't play well with the Fusions. Still seems odd that it works outside of the tank but not in.
I have done that very thing with Fusions and other cartos and what it was for me was what you said, I went to deep when I punched them and cut the wire inside. Check the continuity on your carto if you have a meter.
5card might have the answer. I'm using a 510/801 adapter /Fusioin right now in the M1A1 with no troubles.
Got some proper 1/4-20 sheet metal screws in, they do a beautiful job punching cartos in a hub.
Insert carto in hub. Tighten screw until you feel pressure of it contacting the carto. Two more full turns and back it out. Nice hole, minimal deformation (since the hub is just slightly larger diameter than the carto), impossible for the screw to skid (it is guided by a 1/3" 1/4-20 hole in the hub).
Insert carto in hub. Tighten screw until you feel pressure of it contacting the carto. Two more full turns and back it out. Nice hole, minimal deformation (since the hub is just slightly larger diameter than the carto), impossible for the screw to skid (it is guided by a 1/3" 1/4-20 hole in the hub).
Ok Mark, what's this hub thingy? Are you talking about the shaft collar? Our local True Value has the 3/8id collars.
The burnt taste also depends on the juice you're vaping. On the same carto (I use 2.8 ohms Boges on my Ipro), Halo juices taste well at high voltages, 100% VG COV juices taste burnt. Can't go higher than about 4.5 volts with COV juices if you want them to taste good. Just wanted to point that out. I also have 2.5 ohms cartomizers that will taste burnt with any juice, simply because they're bad cartos, some brands of cartos have to be avoided in my opinion. Try to dial your voltage when you vape another juice, not only when you change your resistance.
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The hub is a different part type. The collars I found all had too thin a body, you need enough width for the piercing screw to get a couple threads into the screw hole before the point impinges into the circular hole in the middle.
Gotcha. I've been trying to keep track of what you're working on I'm always keeping my eye out for a better punch.
I'm always keeping my eye out for a better punch.
It would be great if there was a way to make a "stop" for lining up the carto consistently. I've been marking with a sharpie (small dot) when lining up to the tank.
Oh, forgot to mention -- this particular punch hub is "M1A1 Optimized" The hub has enough height so that the hole ends up in, essentially, the perfect location based on M1A1 cap thickness. Drop a fusion carto in until the fusion flange contacts the hub surface (it won't go any further -- the hub ID is 0.375", just barely larger than the body of a carto). Tighten screw until you feel contact. Two more, full, turns, and back the screw out.The attached shows where the hole is. I put two in, 180 degrees apart, works beautifully
Very little deformation -- the hub shaft keeps the carto from flexing much.(If you have a tank with thicker end cap, just leave a couple mm of the carto bottom sticking out of the hub.)
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