Turbocad's finally selling mods :)
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so let me see if I am following you correctly then. Mods like tmods, cc mods that the actual firing button is the positive will cause arching. But if you have a mod like a franken box or another box like that were there is a break in the ciruit between were the positive connection is made and were the positive is there wont be arching? bare with me here the only mech squonks I have owned are tmods and cc mods and any other mech mod has allways been a tube mod. I have never owned any of these box sqounks were they are side fire and the switch hits the 510 to make the positivie instead of the batterie.
There will be arcing either way, but some materials withstand it more gracefully than others. A battery's contacts are not very good that way. So it's good design feature to get the make/break contact away from the battery, and to fabricate the make/break contacts from a material that does withstand the inevitable arcing well.
yes, the contacts will always arc as the connection is made and broken, especially when broken, but this is inevitable. the difference is, as Rossum says, first of all for it to be a material that withstands the arcing well, and of course this means both sides of the contacts of which a battery end is not so good for this. also there is a difference when the contacts are made from dissimilar metals too. this also causes increased degradation. a silver-on-silver contact arrangement that is remote from the battery will always be far superior and is the only way it should be done imho...
virtually all tube mechs (except for something like the Poldiac which had remote contacts) and many earlier poorly designed box mechs including those mentioned suffer from this problem, a make/break on the battery itself is not an efficient design. it works but the contacts will degrade much faster and the battery itself will usually start to pit and deteriorate, how much is dependent on the amperage load and the material of the opposing contact as well as the actual contact patch. the Reo's were particularly bad in this area with there pointed contact arrangement, especially the earlier ones with the steel leaf contact. a silver contact that makes on the battery is slightly better but still the nickel plated battery end will always suffer and degrade eventually.
another thing many may not realize is that because the battery itself does not have the best contact material on it's end caps, the battery contacts themselves are also very important, even with a remote make/break. technically these cells are designed to be solder tabbed for use on higher load applications, not just a press fit connection, and a poor press fit battery contact will lead to poor performance as a higher resistance point in the circuit. I have seen many mods with cheap battery contacts that were really more designed for much lower load AA or C cell batteries cause issues with power delivery. ideally you want a nice contact patch and a silver contact and a higher pressure connection too. I used to make my batteries pretty damn tight fit, but many have complained about that so I have since loosened this interface a bit, but many mods with poor battery contacts will show weak battery messages when the battery approaches the mid range of charge because of the inadequate battery contacts, and in mechs this can lead to less performance and wasted energy that is spent heating up these poor contacts... if you remember the older tube mechs that the button used to start to get warm or even hot, this is a perfect example of this. in a good circuit the only thing that should heat up is the coil itself, if your contacts anywhere else start to get warm this indicates a poor connection, poor performance and a waste of energy
virtually all tube mechs (except for something like the Poldiac which had remote contacts) and many earlier poorly designed box mechs including those mentioned suffer from this problem, a make/break on the battery itself is not an efficient design. it works but the contacts will degrade much faster and the battery itself will usually start to pit and deteriorate, how much is dependent on the amperage load and the material of the opposing contact as well as the actual contact patch. the Reo's were particularly bad in this area with there pointed contact arrangement, especially the earlier ones with the steel leaf contact. a silver contact that makes on the battery is slightly better but still the nickel plated battery end will always suffer and degrade eventually.
another thing many may not realize is that because the battery itself does not have the best contact material on it's end caps, the battery contacts themselves are also very important, even with a remote make/break. technically these cells are designed to be solder tabbed for use on higher load applications, not just a press fit connection, and a poor press fit battery contact will lead to poor performance as a higher resistance point in the circuit. I have seen many mods with cheap battery contacts that were really more designed for much lower load AA or C cell batteries cause issues with power delivery. ideally you want a nice contact patch and a silver contact and a higher pressure connection too. I used to make my batteries pretty damn tight fit, but many have complained about that so I have since loosened this interface a bit, but many mods with poor battery contacts will show weak battery messages when the battery approaches the mid range of charge because of the inadequate battery contacts, and in mechs this can lead to less performance and wasted energy that is spent heating up these poor contacts... if you remember the older tube mechs that the button used to start to get warm or even hot, this is a perfect example of this. in a good circuit the only thing that should heat up is the coil itself, if your contacts anywhere else start to get warm this indicates a poor connection, poor performance and a waste of energy
Ive heard enough of how awesome you are LOL. Please get this mod made, tested, and in my needy little hand right this secound damn it. So many people these days say mech why a mech arnt we past that. To me they have allways been what i like. Not up down wattage bla bla trying to figure out best watt or volt for what build. What builds to put in what mods for what wattage to perform properly has allways made my head spin. But building on a mech i can grab any rda and know exactly what build to put in it to make it perform to exactly what i want.
No, we're not. A quality mech is forever.
Last time I got a regulated mod, I realized after a few hours - I had spent those few hours messing around with settings........trying to get it to vape like one of my mechs. lol
No, we're not. A quality mech is forever.
No, we're not. A quality mech is forever.
I have one that I think will last forever, I use it when ever I am out doing things that involve lots of vibrations (tractor use), risk of dropping (about anything I touch) or other rough (or stupid) handling. I have a BAM that I like a lot for many reasons. I kind of baby it, electronics and all. I would trade neither, each has its place and function.
I have to add both dust and dirt to the list of reasons I use a mechanical outside. I just came in about to settle in with some cheap vodka but first had to rinse the CeeCee out. Can't do that with BAM, I keep it safe.
BAMini?, BAM Mini? BAM V2?
...not sure what the heck to call it, but I have just today, just now, just completed the design of a completely revamped and completely redesigned all new BAM, and it is, well, mini
so anyway, in keeping all of the best things about the BAM and getting rid of most of the negative things I have heard comments on over the past 2 years, this is a complete redesign, new from the ground up, yet still keeps many of the same durable design elements that make the BAM a BAM, and honestly I think it is just better than ever
the good things such as rock solid full Ultem construction, the only mod with a solid slide track dove tail door connection and 3 squonk hole options of front rear or side hole all remain, as well as of course LH or RH construction for that perfect individual fit... no press fit wimpy doors held on with magnets here, the few negative things such as the mod being a little too tall or a little too big and the ugly negative spring contact that so many seem to hate are now GONE with this new design, as well as the visible solid wire that runs from the bottom to the top inside the mod, ugly? maybe, but now that's GONE too
the internals are now going to be MUCH neater and cleaner for those picky folks who care about such nonsense, and oh yeah, it is much smaller too, about the size of viscous ants new spade within about 1mm or so of it's dimensions actually, so it is now among some of the tinniest 75C's out there except for the one stupid small mod I seen out there that actually leaves the battery hanging out of the side of the mod just to shave a few extra mm's, that is not BAM worthy, that is an accident waiting to happen if you ask me, some compromises are just NOT worth it, hype or not. hell I could make a tinnier mod too if I cut away half the body, but I wouldn't want to actually ever have to carry it, or god forbid drop it
now the screen cover is still bolted on, yeah, yeah, I know, some guys may not particularly like the visible bolts, I get it. hell to be perfectly honest I don't like seeing the bolts so much either, BUT I like all the alternatives even LESS. I REFUSE to glue the screen cover on, or make it a press fit, or just stick it on with magnets... why? well because I like to drop my mods, throw them around a little bit, and yeah sometimes I have even been known to run it over with my car too. I don't want to have to worry about it, I want to just pick it up and keep on vapin'
never gonna see a post here with a mod that has just been simply dropped on the floor and then a picture of a mod in 2 pieces, .... that ..... a drop or even a drop kick and throwing it across the parking lot is no issue here, shelf queens stay home, or get carried in a velvet pouch, my mods are made to VAPE, throw it in your pocket, throw it in your bag, throw it in your cup holder or throw it out the window, it don't matter, it's a tool, not a work of art! #shelfqueenstayhome ... I want a brute of a mod, but also a super light weight tactical mod, not a heavy metal brick. in short, I want a BAM, and if you are like me and you want an awesome regulated mod to actually USE everywhere and not to just look at or hand check, then maybe you might want a BAM too
so, this is the first look here at the brand new BAM prototype, fresh out of the shop and still being final constructed and assembled. this doesn't make the original BAM any less great than it already is, and those that already own one already know how great they are, this just makes this new one, well, just... better? new and improved? mini? or just,... well..., BAM!!!
...not sure what the heck to call it, but I have just today, just now, just completed the design of a completely revamped and completely redesigned all new BAM, and it is, well, mini
so anyway, in keeping all of the best things about the BAM and getting rid of most of the negative things I have heard comments on over the past 2 years, this is a complete redesign, new from the ground up, yet still keeps many of the same durable design elements that make the BAM a BAM, and honestly I think it is just better than ever
the good things such as rock solid full Ultem construction, the only mod with a solid slide track dove tail door connection and 3 squonk hole options of front rear or side hole all remain, as well as of course LH or RH construction for that perfect individual fit... no press fit wimpy doors held on with magnets here, the few negative things such as the mod being a little too tall or a little too big and the ugly negative spring contact that so many seem to hate are now GONE with this new design, as well as the visible solid wire that runs from the bottom to the top inside the mod, ugly? maybe, but now that's GONE too
the internals are now going to be MUCH neater and cleaner for those picky folks who care about such nonsense, and oh yeah, it is much smaller too, about the size of viscous ants new spade within about 1mm or so of it's dimensions actually, so it is now among some of the tinniest 75C's out there except for the one stupid small mod I seen out there that actually leaves the battery hanging out of the side of the mod just to shave a few extra mm's, that is not BAM worthy, that is an accident waiting to happen if you ask me, some compromises are just NOT worth it, hype or not. hell I could make a tinnier mod too if I cut away half the body, but I wouldn't want to actually ever have to carry it, or god forbid drop it
now the screen cover is still bolted on, yeah, yeah, I know, some guys may not particularly like the visible bolts, I get it. hell to be perfectly honest I don't like seeing the bolts so much either, BUT I like all the alternatives even LESS. I REFUSE to glue the screen cover on, or make it a press fit, or just stick it on with magnets... why? well because I like to drop my mods, throw them around a little bit, and yeah sometimes I have even been known to run it over with my car too. I don't want to have to worry about it, I want to just pick it up and keep on vapin'
never gonna see a post here with a mod that has just been simply dropped on the floor and then a picture of a mod in 2 pieces, .... that ..... a drop or even a drop kick and throwing it across the parking lot is no issue here, shelf queens stay home, or get carried in a velvet pouch, my mods are made to VAPE, throw it in your pocket, throw it in your bag, throw it in your cup holder or throw it out the window, it don't matter, it's a tool, not a work of art! #shelfqueenstayhome ... I want a brute of a mod, but also a super light weight tactical mod, not a heavy metal brick. in short, I want a BAM, and if you are like me and you want an awesome regulated mod to actually USE everywhere and not to just look at or hand check, then maybe you might want a BAM too
so, this is the first look here at the brand new BAM prototype, fresh out of the shop and still being final constructed and assembled. this doesn't make the original BAM any less great than it already is, and those that already own one already know how great they are, this just makes this new one, well, just... better? new and improved? mini? or just,... well..., BAM!!!
as far as the mech design, I haven't finished development yet because I need to order some solid silver to develop the contacts and contact strip. I hate silver plated copper, that is just so temporary and eventually the silver plating wears off, I want to make the contacts from solid .999 silver but that complicates things a bit because solid silver is a bit soft and not springy like copper so much of the development of the mech is kinda stalled until I can place an order for some silver from a jewelry supplier. the bulk of the development left is all about the contacts, building the body is the easy part, hell I have just about done that already even, but a mech all comes down to the contacts and the contact strip to me, of which the design I have in mind is a bit more elaborate than just a bent piece of silver plated copper.
I may eventually have to get into plating just to offer a more budget minded option if that becomes necessary but that is really not my main objective. those that know me know that I don't build mods with economy in mind, I set out to build the best mod I can build, cost is secondary within reason, there are tons of cheap mods out there, if you want a cheap mod you do not need me, but if you want one of the best mods money can buy then look me up and take a peek. I'm not arrogant enough to say my mods are the best, that is very subjective, but I will say that to me and for my own money I think they are the best mods I can build and probably are among some of the best out there at least IMHO, hell that is what got me started in this whole modding game in the first place, because I could not buy the mod I really wanted. that has not changed and my goal is always to build a mod that I myself can truly love, I can only hope that you will love it too as many have and as always I thank all of my loyal customers who also agree that my mods are great and wind up with more than one. that is probably the biggest compliment you could ever pay to a modder, to buy his mod and then buy another, and maybe even another. I am very grateful and appreciate my customers always and will always strive to build the best mod I can for you guys. as always, thank you for your interest in my mods
I may eventually have to get into plating just to offer a more budget minded option if that becomes necessary but that is really not my main objective. those that know me know that I don't build mods with economy in mind, I set out to build the best mod I can build, cost is secondary within reason, there are tons of cheap mods out there, if you want a cheap mod you do not need me, but if you want one of the best mods money can buy then look me up and take a peek. I'm not arrogant enough to say my mods are the best, that is very subjective, but I will say that to me and for my own money I think they are the best mods I can build and probably are among some of the best out there at least IMHO, hell that is what got me started in this whole modding game in the first place, because I could not buy the mod I really wanted. that has not changed and my goal is always to build a mod that I myself can truly love, I can only hope that you will love it too as many have and as always I thank all of my loyal customers who also agree that my mods are great and wind up with more than one. that is probably the biggest compliment you could ever pay to a modder, to buy his mod and then buy another, and maybe even another. I am very grateful and appreciate my customers always and will always strive to build the best mod I can for you guys. as always, thank you for your interest in my mods
also guys, speaking about silver and contacts, the plan for this new mini DNA75C mod is to use .999 pure solid silver contacts throughout too, not just silver plated copper like most other mods, and even that is if you are lucky. solid silver lasts forever and never wears off, unlike silver plating. I think a lot of mods don't put enough thought into the integrity of the contacts, the biggest concern is being pretty but I'm much more concerned about performance and longevity than simply pretty cosmetics. my old contacts may have not been so pretty but the performance was there, this new mod I want both, pretty AND ultimate performance
if anyone is curious to know if this thing is really as tiny as I could possibly make it, I have been working on shaving every last fraction of a MM wherever I can, down to the point of even doing many section analysis' just to make sure everything is as close as humanly possible yet still leaving just enough clearances and thickness where needed for strength. here are a few shots of the computer generated section analysis to see just how tight I have gotten everything
I could make the mod about 2mm more narrow overall if I remove the dividing wall that seals between the chip and the battery like some other mods do and leave the chip inductors protruding into the battery compartment but I do not think that is a worthwhile trade off, I'd rather have the wall separating the chip from the battery compartment. 2mm is a very small price to pay for this added safety and durability feature and added protection of the chip from juice damage
the faceplate looks a little thick in these renderings because I leave a little extra material for finish sanding but that too will be as thin as practical while still maintaining strength
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I could make the mod about 2mm more narrow overall if I remove the dividing wall that seals between the chip and the battery like some other mods do and leave the chip inductors protruding into the battery compartment but I do not think that is a worthwhile trade off, I'd rather have the wall separating the chip from the battery compartment. 2mm is a very small price to pay for this added safety and durability feature and added protection of the chip from juice damage
the faceplate looks a little thick in these renderings because I leave a little extra material for finish sanding but that too will be as thin as practical while still maintaining strength
agreed that taking out the divider behind the chip is a bad idea, and not worth a couple mm. looks good my friend. very eager to c what you come up with on the mech. as well as the bolts holding the front on are a still a good idea. I have seen the chip in way to many mods in terribly is a major fail point.
yes, the mini is done and ready for production, I am opening up a new batch for it now, it's name is BAMbino
I did full pure .999 silver contacts here in the BAMbino now too. as soon as I get this next batch buttoned down then I will work on finalizing the mech. if anyone wants a BAMbino built for them in this upcoming batch just let me know and I will make that happen for you, I still have room for a few more spots
here are a few pics of the first one built, it's not 100% polished as this was just the first prototype for my own testing, but I should have pics of about 15 more in a few days that I am working on completing atm...
I did full pure .999 silver contacts here in the BAMbino now too. as soon as I get this next batch buttoned down then I will work on finalizing the mech. if anyone wants a BAMbino built for them in this upcoming batch just let me know and I will make that happen for you, I still have room for a few more spots
here are a few pics of the first one built, it's not 100% polished as this was just the first prototype for my own testing, but I should have pics of about 15 more in a few days that I am working on completing atm...
hi all
shortly after i got my BAM, before i had mastered sliding the door off, was having trouble and stupidly thought "little blue screw driver will loosen that up"
so, i've had a scratch in my door pretty much since i got it
any advice on softening it? door is polished, but it is ok if it winds up matt
steel wool? scotchbrite? IDK
shortly after i got my BAM, before i had mastered sliding the door off, was having trouble and stupidly thought "little blue screw driver will loosen that up"
so, i've had a scratch in my door pretty much since i got it
any advice on softening it? door is polished, but it is ok if it winds up matt
steel wool? scotchbrite? IDK
wow Doffy that sucks... truth is with a polished door that's gonna be tough, if it's a very light scratch then simply oiling it with a light oil like mineral oil or similar then wiping it down may minimize it's appearance, if not then second thing might be to try like a plastic polish, even the stuff they use on headlight lenses for cars might do the trick, if it is too deep for even that then a last resort may be to just "sand" the door... this can be with anything from a least aggressive scotch brite type pad to a micro fine paper all the way up towards even wet sanding it with something more aggressive like maybe a 1,000 grit wet sand paper even, but of course these more aggressive options will kill the gloss pretty much. if you were closer I'd say just send it back to me and I'll take care of it but being in Australia that might not be too practical, although the offer does stand if you want to do that
Depending on how deep the scratch is you might try micro mesh
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-MICRO-4N0000V-Colored-Sanding/dp/B003ELIO0A
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-MICRO-4N0000V-Colored-Sanding/dp/B003ELIO0A
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