Have a Question?

[Quick1]

Also slapped one of those newer AW 3100mAh batteries on the order too, hopefully they justify their price. That's not a dig BTW, I've priced them at a local battery store as well. It's just one of things that's like "$20...for a battery, REALLY!?!?!"

Wow, glad you posted that... That's a smokin deal! and I didn't know Rob started carrying AW. I've been buying mine direct from AW for the past 2 years (haha, only 4 of the 18650s 'cause they're still going strong). The 2600 mah ones. You can't beat AW for quality and safety. He doesn't inflate the rating and maybe even underates them. A 2600 mAh will last me a good 1.5 days and maybe 2 (moderate to heavy vaping, ~3ml using 1.6Ω attomizers).

Question part:

1) These are LiNiCoO2 NNP cells? I use a Triton hobby charger. I got the following choices for Li - LiIon, LiPo, LiFe (naturally the charge rate is selectable and it adjusts that and voltaga through the charge cycle). Which charging profile would be the best match for these?

2) How do I see nicotine content/strength on the juices? Still waiting for you to carry 24mg or higher?

 

[cddz]

Wow, glad you posted that... That's a smokin deal! and I didn't know Rob started carrying AW. I've been buying mine direct from AW for the past 2 years (haha, only 4 of the 18650s 'cause they're still going strong). The 2600 mah ones. You can't beat AW for quality and safety. He doesn't inflate the rating and maybe even underates them. A 2600 mAh will last me a good 1.5 days and maybe 2 (moderate to heavy vaping, ~3ml using 1.6Ω attomizers).

Question part:

1) These are LiNiCoO2 NNP cells? I use a Triton hobby charger. I got the following choices for Li - LiIon, LiPo, LiFe (naturally the charge rate is selectable and it adjusts that and voltaga through the charge cycle). Which charging profile would be the best match for these?

2) How do I see nicotine content/strength on the juices? Still waiting for you to carry 24mg or higher?

I would think Li-ion would be the best profile to use.

 

[rocks82]

2) How do I see nicotine content/strength on the juices? Still waiting for you to carry 24mg or higher?

Sorry, Quick1 At this time, we really don't have any plans to carry e-liquid stronger than 24mg.

- Val

 

[digitalepiphany]

I bought the DC tank and 4 replacement cartos at 1.5 ohms. The carto that came with the tank works great at 6V, but the 1.5s do not.

My question is: what resistance are the cartos that come with the tank? I want to order more at that resistance.

 

[rocks82]

I bought the DC tank and 4 replacement cartos at 1.5 ohms. The carto that came with the tank works great at 6V, but the 1.5s do not.

My question is: what resistance are the cartos that come with the tank? I want to order more at that resistance.

The tanks actually do come with a 1.5ohm cartomizer. I've tried these at 6v and sometimes get good performance, but due to 1.5ohms being so low, 6v is really a bit too hot for them and will burn the filler fairly fast or just not perform that great.

I would suggest trying a higher ohm cartomizer if you're going to tank at 6v. I would suggest trying out the 2.5ohm replacement cartos for higher voltages and keeping the 1.5ohms for 3.7-4.8v

 

[digitalepiphany]

Will do. Thanks.

 

[vi3tl2ice]

how do you clean out the inside of the button of a SB? i had a bunch of juice flowing down my SB and it got into the button. now i feel like im having misfires with the button because of this.

 

[cddz]

how do you clean out the inside of the button of a SB? i had a bunch of juice flowing down my SB and it got into the button. now i feel like im having misfires with the button because of this.

put it in a bowl of uncooked rice to absorb the juice.

 

[cubfanthad]

Does "SC" on a carto mean that it's standard size? I would like to get these Smok Tech - SC - Stainless Steel Cartomizers but I want the standard size and I don't know how to tell.

 

[rocks82]

Does "SC" on a carto mean that it's standard size? I would like to get these Smok Tech - SC - Stainless Steel Cartomizers but I want the standard size and I don't know how to tell.

SC stands for "single coil". Generally, if the cartomizer description doesn't specify that it's an XL size, it's the standard size.

 

[cubfanthad]

SC stands for "single coil". Generally, if the cartomizer description doesn't specify that it's an XL size, it's the standard size.

Ahhh well that makes sence, thanks for the info, it seems that there are so many different things to choose from than when I started... Soooo many Acronyms to learn.

 

[YetiHunter]

I've got a BB that I received in a trade over these forums. It's awesome.
However, it started cooking a battery and the spring. And it did it again! :0

The pin on the atty connector is dislodged, and it looks like the insulator is mucked up.
I am no scientist, but I think we can assume what the issue is.

Since I got this secondhand, and I am assuming the issue is from damage done by the previous
owner; I don't expect it to be under any sort of warranty. However, I'm curious how I can
go about having it serviced.

Thank you!

 

[rocks82]

I've got a BB that I received in a trade over these forums. It's awesome.
However, it started cooking a battery and the spring. And it did it again! :0

The pin on the atty connector is dislodged, and it looks like the insulator is mucked up.
I am no scientist, but I think we can assume what the issue is.

Since I got this secondhand, and I am assuming the issue is from damage done by the previous
owner; I don't expect it to be under any sort of warranty. However, I'm curious how I can
go about having it serviced.

Thank you!

Yup! Repairs can be done! Open up a ticket via this link and we'll get the ball rolling

 

[Quick1]

However, it started cooking a battery and the spring. And it did it again!
I am no scientist,

I hesitate to interject here since it's OT and tangential to the repair... but you have done your due diligence and are fully aware of the batteries you are using?

 

[cddz]

I hesitate to interject here since it's OT and tangential to the repair... but you have done your due diligence and are fully aware of the batteries you are using?

The IMR 14500 will cause the spring to collapse. I actually have the unit on my bench right now The insulator is shot

 

[Quick1]

The IMR 14500 will cause the spring to collapse. I actually have the unit on my bench right now The insulator is shot

Yes. I wasn't speaking to the need/cause for repair. And YetiHunter is likely to be far more knowledgeable about batteries than myself. Just thought it worth mentioning since the symptoms implied he was not using protected Li-Ion batteries. And he mentioned second hand BB ... I still have a short tube. Remember when people were stacking in a short tube and you couldn't quite thread it all the way on (flat spring...)? ok, 6-sigma. ...OT, tangential.

By the way, outstanding service on my 2 year old SB!! Haven't said thanks for that. THANKS!

oh, and how is the design coming along on a floating center contact?

 

[jun0felix]

i own my sb almost as long as i vape - it's my favourite at home gear, you all know why

but since a couple of days, i have a power button issue with it means no power. the power button sits tight, but it always felt a little "wobbly" e.g. when you slide with your thumbnail over it (and it sure is big enough to slide over it lol)

anyway - i took of the black rubber at the inside of the head cap and underneath (not the contact, attached to the rubber, the part inside the head), i find something like electric stuff (i would rather post a pic then try to describe it, but don't know if i am alowed to?) anyway - under the rubber: shouldn't there move something, when i push the power button ?

sorry for my bad english, when it comes to details...

clouds on your body, felix

 

[cddz]

i own my sb almost as long as i vape - it's my favourite at home gear, you all know why

but since a couple of days, i have a power button issue with it means no power. the power button sits tight, but it always felt a little "wobbly" e.g. when you slide with your thumbnail over it (and it sure is big enough to slide over it lol)

anyway - i took of the black rubber at the inside of the head cap and underneath (not the contact, attached to the rubber, the part inside the head), i find something like electric stuff (i would rather post a pic then try to describe it, but don't know if i am alowed to?) anyway - under the rubber: shouldn't there move something, when i push the power button ?

sorry for my bad english, when it comes to details...

clouds on your body, felix

The switch itself is sealed, you will see nothing move when you depress the button. Try a bit of mechanical agitation of the switch. Firmly tapping it on center. Sometimes the contact plate inside the switch itself can shift causing the plate to ride on an angle and not allowing it to make contact with both switch legs. One other question, what battery and atomizer are you using in your SB? The rubber materieal you are asking about is heavy duty molding tape, it simply holds the battery bushing in place and allows for a bit of movement. I hate hard connections, vibrations can be rough on soldered conections.

 

[jun0felix]

cddz, thanks for answer.

The switch itself is sealed, you will see nothing move when you depress the button. Try a bit of mechanical agitation of the switch. Firmly tapping it on center. Sometimes the contact plate inside the switch itself can shift causing the plate to ride on an angle and not allowing it to make contact with both switch legs.

here, my english is a bit at its end, and google tr is not very helpful when it comes to details but that's exactly how it feels: like the contact plate shifted. inside the head, i see a threaded tube in height of the button. is this the switch? well there's something coming out of the tube too... i guess i have to remove the button, but do not have the kind of tools?

One other question, what battery and atomizer are you using in your SB? The rubber materieal you are asking about is heavy duty molding tape, it simply holds the battery bushing in place and allows for a bit of movement. I hate hard connections, vibrations can be rough on soldered conections.

i use the sb at 3.7v : Ultrafire XSL 18650 2600mah : normally with LR tank cartos

actually i like the heavy duty molding tape (and the bottom spring too): as i could lift it easily and have a look inside the bullets head, i was still a little easier (asked myself - as many others - too about the missing ventilation hole, heheh...)

felix

 

[cddz]

cddz, thanks for answer.



here, my english is a bit at its end, and google tr is not very helpful when it comes to details but that's exactly how it feels: like the contact plate shifted. inside the head, i see a threaded tube in height of the button. is this the switch? well there's something coming out of the tube too... i guess i have to remove the button, but do not have the kind of tools?


i use the sb at 3.7v : Ultrafire XSL 18650 2600mah : normally with LR tank cartos

actually i like the heavy duty molding tape (and the bottom spring too): as i could lift it easily and have a look inside the bullets head, i was still a little easier (asked myself - as many others - too about the missing ventilation hole, heheh...)

felix

The ventalation hole is not missing, the notches allow the unit to not presurrize in a venting issue. The nothches also allow the pressure to push upward on the switch, a low pressure blow out plug if you will