How to: Build the Puck
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Very nice. I see the tube is a T reducer. What size is it and where did you find it?
Howdy Pnguin,
Parts came from Lowes, probably get them almost anywhere. I'm not at home for a few days, so this is from memory, it's a 1"x3/4"x3/4". Since it is a copper connector, the diameter is an inside diameter and even then is a bit larger than stated. You have to look real close to see it, but there is a 1" diameter straight connector attached to the bottom to give it the length it needed. Just prepped the ends, use a clamp to hold the two pieces together, used some flux, heated with a torch, and tapped on silver solider. After everything cooled, did the same thing again to overfill the connection, and then sanded till it was flat. Up close it has a fine silver line running on the outside..
I also shortened the two smaller connections since it didn't need them as long as they were when stock. Could have probably cut them a bit more if I wanted too. Also cut down the large connector I added to about 1/4" longer than the battery pack. Now, on the battery pack, it slides in and stops, just before the small T connector location. Inside the large portion of the pipe, where the T comes off it, there is a ring from the factory where the 3/4" tube is attached. In all reality, that ring could be grinded down enough to slide the battery box in further, making the overall tube length shorter. Would cramp stuff up a bit, but it is very possible to make the whole thing smaller, meaning shorter length wise and not quite as wide by cutting down the button tube.
I used a 510 connector in the top end. I started out with a cast T nut that had a diameter a bit larger than the inside diameter of the top small tube. Ran a bolt into the threads, put it on the drill press, and while running, hit it with a file until it was ground down to a diameter that I had to press in tight. Used the bolt to make sure it was straight up and down. I put it in with the long leg of the T nut pointing down to shorten the height of the 510 connector I was using. If I put it in the other way, then the connector would have been above the height of the tube. My vivi novas and my tanks all fit down inside the copper tube, gives it a nicer look, IMHO. Then drill out the threads of the T nut to the proper diameter for the 510, used a reaming tool to adjust the size of the hole. Nice tight fit. Using an old carto in the connector to hold it straight, I used JBWeld to fill in the top portion around the T nut and the 510 connector. Used a small J shaped piece of metal like a forming tool to push the JB into all the small holes and any gaps. Once it dried, I did another layer of JB and smoothed it out to give it a more finished look.
The caps are just the chrome push ons. They come on and off with ease, but stay put unless you want to remove them. I did not use the body as the ground. I ran all the wires, both positive and ground. On that battery box....Lowes did not have that type in stock, radio shack did not have it in stock, the local RC place did. On all 8 corners, I used my Dremel and removed just a touch of material so it would slide into the tube. It was just a wee bit too large stock.
Lots of sanding to take out any scratches, and there were plenty as I thought this was only going to be a test, and then decided to use it as is. There would have been less sanding needed if I had been more careful. Save yourself some work and use caution. Got a kit from harbor freight, two different polishing rouges and 2 wheels, was like $4.50. Polished it to a great shine, then use BLUE PARROT car wax on it. That was a waste. Tarnished up in 2-3 days. Neighbor sez he uses a spray lacquer to coat copper at work......decided I was gonna paint the HYDRANT (Mustang gave it that name), and I've got a fire engine red can waiting for my return home, lol.
BTW, the thing works great, lots of clouds of vapor, a good taste, etc, etc. Battery pack last as long as my 18650 does in my lavatube and my VModXL, if not a bit longer.
PUCK, ya did a good thing with your original design, can't thank you enough, and my wife hates ya....I'm working on my projects instead of designing/creating jewelry or doing leather work, HA.
If there's anything that needs a better explanation, or anything I can do, post it here, or PM me, would be glad to help.
I have 4 x 14500 batts (I think that's what they are, they are laying around collecting dust) and looking for an idea for another project using those. I have a very easy way to make a wood box that almost anyone can do with a minimum of tools....I may have to make a box and try that. Also thinking of buying a few of the 4 cell NiMH that looks like a 18650, and will have to try those. Anyone with any ideas how they should be used, speak up!
Big Mac
Parts came from Lowes, probably get them almost anywhere. I'm not at home for a few days, so this is from memory, it's a 1"x3/4"x3/4". Since it is a copper connector, the diameter is an inside diameter and even then is a bit larger than stated. You have to look real close to see it, but there is a 1" diameter straight connector attached to the bottom to give it the length it needed. Just prepped the ends, use a clamp to hold the two pieces together, used some flux, heated with a torch, and tapped on silver solider. After everything cooled, did the same thing again to overfill the connection, and then sanded till it was flat. Up close it has a fine silver line running on the outside..
I also shortened the two smaller connections since it didn't need them as long as they were when stock. Could have probably cut them a bit more if I wanted too. Also cut down the large connector I added to about 1/4" longer than the battery pack. Now, on the battery pack, it slides in and stops, just before the small T connector location. Inside the large portion of the pipe, where the T comes off it, there is a ring from the factory where the 3/4" tube is attached. In all reality, that ring could be grinded down enough to slide the battery box in further, making the overall tube length shorter. Would cramp stuff up a bit, but it is very possible to make the whole thing smaller, meaning shorter length wise and not quite as wide by cutting down the button tube.
I used a 510 connector in the top end. I started out with a cast T nut that had a diameter a bit larger than the inside diameter of the top small tube. Ran a bolt into the threads, put it on the drill press, and while running, hit it with a file until it was ground down to a diameter that I had to press in tight. Used the bolt to make sure it was straight up and down. I put it in with the long leg of the T nut pointing down to shorten the height of the 510 connector I was using. If I put it in the other way, then the connector would have been above the height of the tube. My vivi novas and my tanks all fit down inside the copper tube, gives it a nicer look, IMHO. Then drill out the threads of the T nut to the proper diameter for the 510, used a reaming tool to adjust the size of the hole. Nice tight fit. Using an old carto in the connector to hold it straight, I used JBWeld to fill in the top portion around the T nut and the 510 connector. Used a small J shaped piece of metal like a forming tool to push the JB into all the small holes and any gaps. Once it dried, I did another layer of JB and smoothed it out to give it a more finished look.
The caps are just the chrome push ons. They come on and off with ease, but stay put unless you want to remove them. I did not use the body as the ground. I ran all the wires, both positive and ground. On that battery box....Lowes did not have that type in stock, radio shack did not have it in stock, the local RC place did. On all 8 corners, I used my Dremel and removed just a touch of material so it would slide into the tube. It was just a wee bit too large stock.
Lots of sanding to take out any scratches, and there were plenty as I thought this was only going to be a test, and then decided to use it as is. There would have been less sanding needed if I had been more careful. Save yourself some work and use caution. Got a kit from harbor freight, two different polishing rouges and 2 wheels, was like $4.50. Polished it to a great shine, then use BLUE PARROT car wax on it. That was a waste. Tarnished up in 2-3 days. Neighbor sez he uses a spray lacquer to coat copper at work......decided I was gonna paint the HYDRANT (Mustang gave it that name), and I've got a fire engine red can waiting for my return home, lol.
BTW, the thing works great, lots of clouds of vapor, a good taste, etc, etc. Battery pack last as long as my 18650 does in my lavatube and my VModXL, if not a bit longer.
PUCK, ya did a good thing with your original design, can't thank you enough, and my wife hates ya....I'm working on my projects instead of designing/creating jewelry or doing leather work, HA.
If there's anything that needs a better explanation, or anything I can do, post it here, or PM me, would be glad to help.
I have 4 x 14500 batts (I think that's what they are, they are laying around collecting dust) and looking for an idea for another project using those. I have a very easy way to make a wood box that almost anyone can do with a minimum of tools....I may have to make a box and try that. Also thinking of buying a few of the 4 cell NiMH that looks like a 18650, and will have to try those. Anyone with any ideas how they should be used, speak up!
Big Mac
Thanks for the break down Big Mac. Really great looking. I can not see the seam you soldered, nice neat job. I am on my way to Lowes this weekend. Thanks for the inspiration.
You might try something like Breaktru's side by side copper with those 14500's or 18650's. Side x Side Copper Bullet - V.V. w/ Digital Pot & Touch Switch
Good lord, looks like I'd have to take an electronics class to understand what's going on there! Amazing how much I have forgotten over the yrs, some of the symbols on the schematic and some of the discussion about what's going on doesn't even tickle a memory.
Big Mac
Big Mac
Yup. Those guys are the big guns of modders. I have learned a lot reading those posts but have a long way to go before attempting some of those mods.
Well, at times, instead of a big gun, a derringer can get the job done. Guess we will have to see, muhahahaha.
Big Mac
Big Mac
New puck is being hatched. Can's wait. I'm sticking with the website plan,this is my first mod. I'm about halfway there, waiting on a pre wired 510 connector and a gripper extender. The connector will be recessed and the gripper extension fastened onto to will protrude from the box.
I'm at that point where I have one of the covers welded onto the battery box.
I'm at that point where I have one of the covers welded onto the battery box.
Howdy Mike,
Are ya having fun yet? You picked a good mod to start with and one that works very very well. They're a lot of fun, and very useful as well. Good luck and if ya need anything, give a holler.
Big Mac
Are ya having fun yet? You picked a good mod to start with and one that works very very well. They're a lot of fun, and very useful as well. Good luck and if ya need anything, give a holler.
Big Mac
I'm finding this plastic is very hard to drill into.
Waiting for parts from Mad Vapes..
Waiting for parts from Mad Vapes..
No doubt the best starter. I've made several of these things. I just made one the other day for a buddy that wants to try vaping.
I hope I got the right resistor for the led. It's 470 ohm, but I don't know about the wattage. It' about the same size as what he has on the website.
470 was all my Radio Shack had. And it is what I used. I've had no trouble over the 3 months I've been using it.
Built my first mod yesterday, with some slight variations. Decided to use the switches that come in these aaa boxes to add some options since I'm just starting out decided to make the mod as versatile as possible. Instead of an on/off switch, the switch on the control box chooses between a 510 and a 901 connector, could have just used adapters, but why not have both connectors on one box? The battery box switch I wired up to switch between using all 4 of the AAA's or just 3. Didn't want to get all the way into building a variable voltage, but I'm glad I made it possible to lower the voltage. I got some brand new Tenergy rechargable AAA's and fresh all 4 put out 5.5v, and just 3 put out 4.2v. I don't have any atomizers set up with high enough resistance for 5v+, and vaping at 12-13 watts was a bit much for me. After an evening's heavy use trying it out, output dropped to 3.8/5.2, so still mostly using the 3 battery setting.
Fun stuff, it took me a lot longer to build this little box than I expected it would, and the boxes don't stay together as well as I'd like, but I'm sure in the future I can make these faster/easier/better, and so far it's allowed me to put $ into trying out different attachments instead of putting my money into battery mods.
Fun stuff, it took me a lot longer to build this little box than I expected it would, and the boxes don't stay together as well as I'd like, but I'm sure in the future I can make these faster/easier/better, and so far it's allowed me to put $ into trying out different attachments instead of putting my money into battery mods.
The resistors I have are 470 ohm 1/2 watt.
The plan is to use a 510 pre wired 510 connector- recessed, permanently fixed to a gripper extender, which will protrude from the hole, the led is yellow and I ordered a yellow Vision version clearomizer with 3.1 ohm replacement coils. It will have a Mad Vapes black horn button on the front panel of the control box, positioning for the led and button the same as the base tutorial.
I'm concerned about the 1/2 watt on the resistor, there were different wattage ratings for the resistors in the parts drawer.
The plan is to use a 510 pre wired 510 connector- recessed, permanently fixed to a gripper extender, which will protrude from the hole, the led is yellow and I ordered a yellow Vision version clearomizer with 3.1 ohm replacement coils. It will have a Mad Vapes black horn button on the front panel of the control box, positioning for the led and button the same as the base tutorial.
I'm concerned about the 1/2 watt on the resistor, there were different wattage ratings for the resistors in the parts drawer.
Well, parts came today and I did all the wiring and soldering except the last one- red lead on the switch, I'm going to pick up some batteries tomorrow and make sure it works and I don't want to put solder on that switch until I see that LED light up.I have a real lousy soldering iron.Also, with that gripper extender in there, it's real hard to put the cover on and off the control box.I too much epoxy and too much solder throughout. I think it'll work though unless my solder is too dirty or that resistor is off.
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