Help (again!) - Purple Buzz not working

[vaporgalinfla]

So… my purple buzz was working great. batteries died, took them out, put in a new set and nothing. I tested the batteries in the silver buzz and they work. So I know the batteries are fine.

After reading some of the posts where people had problems, this is what I did:

Took the bottom cap off the purple buzz and put it on the silver buzz. Silver buzz still works, so it appears that the bottom cap is fine.

I then slowly screwed on an 808 carto. on the purple buzz while depressing the button. The light turns red, but no vapor comes out of the carto. I tried using a few differing cartos – same thing. Tested the cartos on the silver buzz and they work fine. So I know it’s not the cartos.

I noticed that the top screw on the top cap was loose, so I tightened it a little bit. Tried the carto thing again – same results. I then carefully unscrewed the top cap without touching the wires and tightened the inside screw. I put the cap back on, tried the carto thing again. Same thing. It feels like air is coming through the carto, but there’s no flavor and it’s cool air (no vapor).

I saw Mike’s post about loosening the Phillips head screw on the side and re-tightening it several time. This is the only thing I haven’t tried since I don’t have a screwdriver small enough. If anyone thinks I should try this, I’ll go buy one.

By the way, both 808 Buzzes have the black o-ring on the top. I read Mike’s post about removing them, but haven’t so far. Is there any harm in leaving them on?

 

[5cardstud]

Its probably the anodizing on it. Try doing what you mentioned with the screws.

 

[BuzzKill]

So are you getting just the red Light on ? never goes blue even with the carto OFF ?
try the side screw adjustment , also check the area around the top screw and clean it , I have some cheap cartoz that the threads strip off of and can cause shorts

Also now that you know how to use a multimeter put it on the 200k ohm range and test the output connection for a short ( center screw to the outside threads is where to put the leads ) it should read around 3k ohms do NOT press the button while doing this test.

 

[vaporgalinfla]

So are you getting just the red Light on ? never goes blue even with the carto OFF ?

Right - never gets blue.

try the side screw adjustment , also check the area around the top screw and clean it , I have some cheap cartoz that the threads strip off of and can cause shorts

Okay, I'll have hubby buy a little screwdriver on his way home from work. I checked the area around the top screw and cleaned it. Looks fine.

Also now that you know how to use a multimeter put it on the 200k ohm range and test the output connection for a short ( center screw to the outside threads is where to put the leads ) it should read around 3k ohms do NOT press the button while doing this test.

Okay, now I'm confused (told you that I'm electronically challenged!). Do I use the voltage adapter? If not, do I just touch the red and black leads from the voltage meter directly to the center near the screw?

Also, do you find it odd that this happened right when I was changing batteries?

 

[kwcharlie]

Also now that you know how to use a multimeter put it on the 200k ohm range and test the output connection for a short ( center screw to the outside threads is where to put the leads ) it should read around 3k ohms do NOT press the button while doing this test.
just put it on just like you were to see the voltage, take the batteries out or make sure you DO NOT push the button, your are going to measure the ohms of the top of the buzz just like a atty but expect it to be very high ohms

 

[vaporgalinfla]

Also now that you know how to use a multimeter put it on the 200k ohm range and test the output connection for a short ( center screw to the outside threads is where to put the leads ) it should read around 3k ohms do NOT press the button while doing this test.
just put it on just like you were to see the voltage, take the batteries out or make sure you DO NOT push the button, your are going to measure the ohms of the top of the buzz just like a atty but expect it to be very high ohms

I took the batteries out and screwed in the adapter to the top center. The reading keeps changing (up or down by .1 or .2), but it's around 62.1! What does that mean? I think I'm doing it right, because I just checked the working silver Buzz and it's showing 3.5.

 

[kwcharlie]

the ohm range settings for you meter is on the bottom in white says 2000 20K 200K try the 200K first and see what you get.

 

[kwcharlie]

I took the batteries out and screwed in the adapter to the top center. The reading keeps changing (up or down by .1 or .2), but it's around 62.1! What does that mean? I think I'm doing it right, because I just checked the working silver Buzz and it's showing 3.5.

what does it read when you take it off the buzz?

 

[vaporgalinfla]

what does it read when you take it off the buzz?

It shows 1 .

 

[kwcharlie]

I took the batteries out and screwed in the adapter to the top center. The reading keeps changing (up or down by .1 or .2), but it's around 62.1! What does that mean? I think I'm doing it right, because I just checked the working silver Buzz and it's showing 3.5.

it should be very high # or a # followed by a K (= x 1000), must not be doing it right or the silver would have shown about 10K, move the dial untill the pointer is down at 200K then read it screwed into the buzz, with it not on the buzz, or a lead off the screw in adaptor thingie is should say OL or something.
good thinking doing the silver too to check

 

[kwcharlie]

It shows 1 .

switch set to 200K?

 

[kwcharlie]

It shows 1 .

put it in 200k ohms with nothing conected to the meter probes and tell me what the meter says. Then put the meter leads together and it should go to 0

 

[vaporgalinfla]

put it in 200k ohms with nothing conected to the meter probes and tell me what the meter says. Then put the meter leads together and it should go to 0

With nothing connected to the probes, it shows 1 . (a few spaces between the 1 and the .). Then when I touch the two leads together, it goes to 0.

Yes - the switch is at 200k.

 

[kwcharlie]

With nothing connected to the probes, it shows 1 . (a few spaces between the 1 and the .). Then when I touch the two leads together, it goes to 0.

Yes - the switch is at 200k.

OK that 1 with a few spaces meal OL or infinity ohms, what you have when the leads are not touching anything. now screw in the clippie thingie and put the clips on the meter leads and tell me what it says in the 2000, 20K and 200k.
you can just switch the meter from 200K to 20K to 2000 without taking anything off.

 

[vaporgalinfla]

2000 - 176
20K - 1 . (spaces between the 1 and .)
200k - it keeps changing between around 66.3 to 66.7

OK that 1 with a few spaces meal OL or infinity ohms, what you have when the leads are not touching anything. now screw in the clippie thingie and put the clips on the meter leads and tell me what it says in the 2000, 20K and 200k.
you can just switch the meter from 200K to 20K to 2000 without taking anything off.

 

[kwcharlie]

don't understand that 2000 - 176, meter artifact.
OK, at 200K it's saying your top is 66.3 to 66.7 K (thousand) ohme, that's good and understand now why the silver read the same thing. it's not a bad top or short there, back to thinking, sure Mike's watching

 

[vaporgalinfla]

It's good to know that there's no short or bad top.

My husband is stopping at Radio Schack and JoAnn Fabrics right now trying to find a tiny screwdriver. Between the two places, I'm sure he'll be able to get one. As soon as he gets home I'll try loosening and retightening the screw on the side. Will keep you posted.

Thank you so much for helping me!

don't understand that 2000 - 176, meter artifact.
OK, at 200K it's saying your top is 66.3 to 66.7 K (thousand) ohme, that's good and understand now why the silver read the same thing. it's not a bad top or short there, back to thinking, sure Mike's watching

 

[kwcharlie]

The give away that you were doing it right was getting the 1 . in the 20K range, the range was too low (your top is 66K ohms) so it went to INFINITY (1 .) becouse it couldn't go high enough in the 20K range. Don't know why the 2000 range (2K) didn't go to 1 . it was way to low to reak your 66K ohm cap also, like the 20K range
I GOT IT the 2000 scale is the diode tester too, you tested the LED, just looked at your meter again. If you put it in the 200 range the meter will read 1 . when you put it on the cap. The 200 range is what you will use to test your carts and attys, try it, should show 3.? ohms if you put one lead on the center and the other on the case.
What ever, the top isn't shorted

 

[kwcharlie]

your welcome, like teaching, part of my job, get to PIF, feels good. wife unit says "don't fix it over the phone, make them pay you to go out there" but i think i get more work doing the PIF thing, makes shaving better too; the mirror is easer to use.

you know the screw you are waiting for a driver is that silver one with the + flush with the tube

still thinking about why this came up when you changed batteries???????????

 

[vaporgalinfla]

The give away that you were doing it right was getting the 1 . in the 20K range, the range was too low (your top is 66K ohms) so it went to INFINITY (1 .) becouse it couldn't go high enough in the 20K range. Don't know why the 2000 range (2K) didn't go to 1 . it was way to low to reak your 66K ohm cap also, like the 20K range
I GOT IT the 2000 scale is the diode tester too, you tested the LED, just looked at your meter again. If you put it in the 200 range the meter will read 1 . when you put it on the cap. The 200 range is what you will use to test your carts and attys, try it, should show 3.? ohms if you put one lead on the center and the other on the case.
What ever, the top isn't shorted

I wondered how to test carts! Just tried it and didn't have any luck. Does it make any difference where I place the lead on the cart? Also, am I supposed to push in the botton on the buzz when doing this?