So is this new top cap now offered from EHPRO and have they sent replacement to all vendors ?
EHPro Kayfun v4 - Not worth the money
- Thread starter Garemlin
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My EHPro KF4 as expected does not have the flat top cap either. That said I can not get this thing to leak at all when refilling. Is this what the flat spot does on the top cap do? Prevents leakage when refilling? I purchased this from Ebay and trying to figure out if I should contact the vendor regarding if they have replacement caps?
I ordered an authentic here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1XMKOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1XMKOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's supposed to let air escape while you tighten so you don't build unwanted pressure causing it to leak/flood.
I hope that really is an authentic. Only authorized dealers sell them.
That I am not sure about. From what I was told by me seller the newest shipment they received has the new top cap. And in my correspondence with EHPro they said to contact your seller/retailer for a replacement cap if yours does not have the flat spot. I am sure there are many sellers/retailers/buyers that are not even aware of this. So it will probably be done on a complaint basis. I can't really see them being proactive and tracking down every single one that has been sold.
That was a terrible idea, I highly doubt that's legit.
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Well I contacted the seller and he told me they will be shipping the new top cap, so its pretty good news.
If this has been covered already, pls. disregard.
If you want your KFv4 juice control to work right (JC ring too tight/loose/wobbling, tightening part #9 causes the JC ring to freeze up), modify part #7 by thinning it. Mine started out at 0.044" (~1.1mm), taking it down to 0.028" (~0.7mm) allowed #9 to be fully tightened yet allowed the juice control (aka “JC”) ring to turn with just a little resistance. Some resistance is needed to keep the setting stable- too loose and it turns too easily. And obviously too tight and the JC will not turn at all. The biggest problem with the quick-fix of tightening #9 "just enough" to allow the JC ring to turn instead of thinning #7 is high resistance! #9 has to be TIGHT!
When I first built mine, I used a piece of nickel wire across the terminals on the build deck instead of a coil- this was to check for resistance and I found 1.4 ohms- WAY too much. After thinning #7 (and fully tightening #9) I rechecked and found 0.3 ohms. I chalk the 0.3 ohms up to the several threaded connections used between the 510 and the terminals at the deck, the use of stainless for the 510 pin and to the steel spring- even though it's supposed to be silver plated (the original uses a beryllium alloy/silver plated spring).
So other than the above, knocking the chips out of the four juice holes in part #17 (I used a #59 drill bit to finish drilling the holes), a thorough cleaning- and I do mean thorough- needs to be done to get rid of the oil smell and the machining debris. I recommend taking it completely apart before using, down to the deck screws and all O-rings (mine was missing O-ring #19 and would have leaked like a sieve had I not caught it, the spares kit had one thankfully) in order to get it clean. Taking it down all the way is no big deal IMHO, what with a large drawing of the parts and their relation to one another to assist with dis- and reassembly.
For ME is this still is a hell of a bargain for the $17.00 I paid for it- even needing some work to put it right.
If you want your KFv4 juice control to work right (JC ring too tight/loose/wobbling, tightening part #9 causes the JC ring to freeze up), modify part #7 by thinning it. Mine started out at 0.044" (~1.1mm), taking it down to 0.028" (~0.7mm) allowed #9 to be fully tightened yet allowed the juice control (aka “JC”) ring to turn with just a little resistance. Some resistance is needed to keep the setting stable- too loose and it turns too easily. And obviously too tight and the JC will not turn at all. The biggest problem with the quick-fix of tightening #9 "just enough" to allow the JC ring to turn instead of thinning #7 is high resistance! #9 has to be TIGHT!
When I first built mine, I used a piece of nickel wire across the terminals on the build deck instead of a coil- this was to check for resistance and I found 1.4 ohms- WAY too much. After thinning #7 (and fully tightening #9) I rechecked and found 0.3 ohms. I chalk the 0.3 ohms up to the several threaded connections used between the 510 and the terminals at the deck, the use of stainless for the 510 pin and to the steel spring- even though it's supposed to be silver plated (the original uses a beryllium alloy/silver plated spring).
So other than the above, knocking the chips out of the four juice holes in part #17 (I used a #59 drill bit to finish drilling the holes), a thorough cleaning- and I do mean thorough- needs to be done to get rid of the oil smell and the machining debris. I recommend taking it completely apart before using, down to the deck screws and all O-rings (mine was missing O-ring #19 and would have leaked like a sieve had I not caught it, the spares kit had one thankfully) in order to get it clean. Taking it down all the way is no big deal IMHO, what with a large drawing of the parts and their relation to one another to assist with dis- and reassembly.
For ME is this still is a hell of a bargain for the $17.00 I paid for it- even needing some work to put it right.
I verfied the authenticity with Sovmesto. It's legit. I was worried when I ordered it, but everything checked out.
Why would the seller have pictures of a clone in the amazon description. Seems a bit odd.
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Lol! Thanks for the info in this thread guys! I don't own any variant of the Kayfun 4, but I do have an IVOGO mini V2.1. A couple of minutes with my dremmel, and now to top fill the thing all I have to do is block the air holes with my fingers, remove the top cap, fill, screw top cap back on and unblock the air holes. No more screw on till the oring touches, flip, screw mess. I've never been able to get this thing not to flood while top filling.. Until now! Thanks!
Could you post pics of that? I have ivogo mini and wouldn't mind trying this. Or where did you get the info in this thread?
Basically, I just ground down the threads in a small section of the top cap, like the one guy did here to his Kayfun 4 tip. I'm not having as good of luck with it today though. I can't fill it up without leaking every time. I can reduce the amount of leaking everytime though, by quite a bit. The issue is keeping the air intake and AFC holes good and blocked throughout the process and if you add too much juice, it's going to leak as well.. Hard to tell how much to fill it. I might need to grind off some more or grind off some threading on the opposite side. It does work though, just haven't figured it out to were it's 100% repeatable.
EDIT:
So I grinded smooth two sides and that didn't improve anything. What I figured out though was last night I was getting those results only filling the thing half way up. I was tired and didn't realize that half filling would make a difference. What this does seem to give you though is a place for the juice to escape other than into the chamber if you do the traditional Kayfun top fill method. Meaning block holes, screw to oring touches, flip, unblock the air holes once the bubble reaches the bottom (now top cause it's upsidedown) Then when you tighten up the cap, the excess juice just comes out of the top around the top cap seal. I don't have to blow into the thing to unflood it, and I get no gurgles or anything like that. I do still need a paper towel though and I am still loosing some juice. So all in all, it seems it's an improvement, though not a complete fix. I'm going to get another one of these clones here soon, and I will grind out one flat spot on it.
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As usual, I'm waiting for a later revision. There's always something that needs to be addressed with early versions. It's just how it is with most items.
My Provari V2 has been rock solid after three years. I can't say the same for my Eleaf iStick. I expected buck AND boost regulation.
The Kayfun V4 looks like a really great product. I like the ability to recoil and re-wick without draining the tank. I've gotten the process down to perfection on my EHPro Kayfun V3.1, but not having to dump juice to re-wick is a plus. I'll be buying a K4 in the future.
My Provari V2 has been rock solid after three years. I can't say the same for my Eleaf iStick. I expected buck AND boost regulation.
The Kayfun V4 looks like a really great product. I like the ability to recoil and re-wick without draining the tank. I've gotten the process down to perfection on my EHPro Kayfun V3.1, but not having to dump juice to re-wick is a plus. I'll be buying a K4 in the future.
They've fixed the ehpro kayfun 4, it works like the other clones now.
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I'm sold on the K4. It just depends on the price and quality which I buy. Right now, it looks like Tobeco is leading over the EHPro. My EHPro KF V3 is doing fine. It just needs more airflow, some help feeding juice without creating artificial vacuum, and the ability to top fill it easily.
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