That is weird Tor R. I've never experienced this on a dna. I have noticed DNA's TC quirk of deciding the material type doesn't match with what is actually happening. Then it kicks out of TC mode into wattage mode. This usually happens using stock coils using nickel legs or exotic coils using multiple wire types. The fix of course is to use the right TFR/TCR file or Replay (on selected models)..
Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More
- Thread starter badinfluence357
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 26
You know what it sounds like is the atomizer suddenly increasing in resistance through an unstable connection. You should see this with EScribe's Device Manager.
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No bs, I've been using my dot mod as my adc since I got it...It just feels right in my hand and it isn't that heavy. I love it.. Get the mission xv dot clone on 3f. I think they have a few gray ones left, I think I got the last black one...
At frst it felt like a toy in my hand because the plastic panels on the Stussy kit. I removed them and it was the best thing I did..
I'm trying to catch up, Ive also had that problem where you take a puff on a dna mod where the first puff is booste afer being idle. I have to hit the up and down key to readjust the wattage to its original selected wattage.. it doesn't happen all the time, but it happens.
Ive connected to escribe and checked the boost timer on the mod and its off.... I take the atty out dry all the pooling of condensation just in case. I don't know whats the cause of it because it doesn't happen all the time so its hard to pin point the cause of it.
Ive connected to escribe and checked the boost timer on the mod and its off.... I take the atty out dry all the pooling of condensation just in case. I don't know whats the cause of it because it doesn't happen all the time so its hard to pin point the cause of it.
Currently vaping on these for the weekend rotation. I usually run five mods at the same time but I forget what juice im vaping on each... I waste alot of juice like that and I never vape the tanks completely empty.. it go's down the sink.. On that note I must say that the Blaze mod is a battery vampire. That thing sucks the batteries down like newborns drink milk. I wonder if it continues draining while the mod isn't being used....
I just ordered a DNA 60 with large screen (and free usb dongle) from Stealthvape. No specific project in mind for it but I might look at replacing the board in the BP Mods Tomahawk if it fits. I really like the look and feel of that mod but it always felt a bit sluggish.
EDIT - forget that idea. I just opened up the Tomahawk. Really clean and neat inside. Beautiful wiring job and very compact/ little room to work with . Not gonna mess it.
EDIT - forget that idea. I just opened up the Tomahawk. Really clean and neat inside. Beautiful wiring job and very compact/ little room to work with . Not gonna mess it.
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Now I don't have the possibility to put it up against escribe since I don't have usb on it (yet), but I consider the glitch to be microscopic. As I said, I have been very satisfied with how the dna is in TC.
I wouldn't have seen it if it wasn't for the setup on the screen being:
1, resistance
2, watts
3, watts after draw.
I use round wire, KP ss316L 28ga 8 wrap. Same coil build as I have done for years, same spool too.
I don't have much experience with dna chipsets, I have Centaurus dna 250c which I never use, a jac dna75 which I also don't use due to weak 510 pin, and now bb with dna 60 which I use quite often, the last one I haven't fitted in cable connection so I can not connect it to escribe.
The glitch is a tiny little thing that we will find out why happens when I get the next bb built. I bought these connectors for a reason, so the next bb will have some kind of connection option.
As I said, in general dna has grown on me, not bad when I was initially such a dicodes fan.
@Tor R On the DNAs you can/should check the stability of your coil using Atomizer Analyzer (bottom of every profile page). A few thousandths fluctuations with TC material is normal.
If it's jumpy, fix your build.
You should NEVER need to the lock the resistance on your mod. Locked or not, the mod ALWAYS reads the current 'live' ohms.
The resistance of your coil on a b&w mod might show lower after a sleep or the next day. That's normal. A color mod will not show it.
If it's jumpy, fix your build.
You should NEVER need to the lock the resistance on your mod. Locked or not, the mod ALWAYS reads the current 'live' ohms.
The resistance of your coil on a b&w mod might show lower after a sleep or the next day. That's normal. A color mod will not show it.
Thank you very much for the tips, really appreciate them.
I'm going to build three atty's tomorrow for the mod, I always tighten the coil screws hard.
But I have to train myself to follow how we get information from the dna on the screen as you have explained.
The plans to make a simple link for bb and some kind of connection to the billet box dongle, turned out a little different and easier than I imagined.
Stealth Vape dongle with fixed pins is a free item when we buy either DNA 60 or DNA 60C from them.
Header is a 5 pin Connfly Socket Pin Female pitch 2mm, part number is DS1026-01-1*558BV.
Header is soldered to the chipset.
The way it ends up, remove the screen cover, flip up the screen, and the header connector will be open:
Stealth Vape dongle with fixed pins is a free item when we buy either DNA 60 or DNA 60C from them.
Header is a 5 pin Connfly Socket Pin Female pitch 2mm, part number is DS1026-01-1*558BV.
Header is soldered to the chipset.
The way it ends up, remove the screen cover, flip up the screen, and the header connector will be open:
IMHO I just make sure the coil legs are centered under the fastener, and snug, both before and after a low glow. Pretty sure you're not making them Superman tight
That is a very clever modification Tor. Also has shown me that it is better to use the dongle from the screen side. I've been coming in from the board side and needing to unplug my screen ribbon cable when using it.
Thank you very much mate for the kind words, T.
This is how my three BB will be, mostly we regularly go over the bb to check for condensation, juice etc, and removing the screen cover is the least demanding to work on.
Atleast we don't need to be afraid of these max 20 reconnections of the screen connector.
BB - connecting to escibe, mine hit from ether side. I never undo screen ribbon for dongle connection to board.
Not sure how I could connect the 5 pin dongle from this side without removing the screen ribbon.
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