Pictorial: *The VAPER V4* : a slim & sexy hybrid

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Moxienator

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Cloud looks huge b/c of the ambient humidity (its pouring outside).

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mssam

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Looks nice @Moxienator! Sounds a lot like a build I have on my satin one. I used a 5/4 wrap for a while, but dropped it to a 4/3 wrap. I'm using 100 vg with 250 mesh (I think??? or 200 lol) and it seems to heat up with the higher vg pretty quick so that's cool. The build is ok, but something seems off...idk... it may be something with the size of the mesh I'm using. I got rid of the hot spots, so I don't think that's it. Which reminds me, one thing that I've been meaning to ask you guys is what's the measurement of your mesh? Maybe I'm using too big of a piece...


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jpcwon

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I have to rebuild mine this week. I had some sort of a short in my Vaper v4 recently so hopefully nothing is damaged. I was vaping it and all of a sudden the battery got very hot and the juice tasted burnt. So I am not sure what exactly happened. it was working excellent for a long time, then all of a sudden this happens.

I will keep you all posted as to what I find when I dismantle the Vaper. I just haven't had time to delve into it, but I will this week....
 

Moxienator

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I have to rebuild mine this week. I had some sort of a short in my Vaper v4 recently so hopefully nothing is damaged. I was vaping it and all of a sudden the battery got very hot and the juice tasted burnt. So I am not sure what exactly happened. it was working excellent for a long time, then all of a sudden this happens.

I will keep you all posted as to what I find when I dismantle the Vaper. I just haven't had time to delve into it, but I will this week....
Sometimes my post nuts come loose from just normal jostling, maybe this could've happened to you?

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Moxienator

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Looks nice @Moxienator! Sounds a lot like a build I have on my satin one. I used a 5/4 wrap for a while, but dropped it to a 4/3 wrap. I'm using 100 vg with 250 mesh (I think??? or 200 lol) and it seems to heat up with the higher vg pretty quick so that's cool. The build is ok, but something seems off...idk... it may be something with the size of the mesh I'm using. I got rid of the hot spots, so I don't think that's it. Which reminds me, one thing that I've been meaning to ask you guys is what's the measurement of your mesh? Maybe I'm using too big of a piece...


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I almost forgot this!

I made a little graph paper template for cutting out my wicks- they are 1" x 1.5".

I was using 300# mesh for juice from my semi local b&m, but since it was really gunky juice and high pg, this actually didn't work out well.

I got my V4 off the classies, and the fellow that sold it included 400# mesh. At the time, I just couldn't get that to work for me, hence the 300#.

I've recently switched to the 400# mesh with Frenilla (which is fairly thin compared to the other NT juices I have) and it seems to be working much better. I may even go up to 500# just to see what that's like.

What gauge wire are you using? I've been switching between 29 and 30g, with a slight lean towards 29.

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mssam

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29 sounds like a good gauge. I'm using 28g, but I'm thinking about trying 29 or 30 myself. Thanks for the measurement! I'm about to order some more eliquid with less VG, so I'm going to give that try with some 400. I too had a template, but it got misplaced some place. I'll make a couple of them this time

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Ktribb

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Okay I feel like an idiot, I just got one in the mail, and it is getting no power, and yes I just put a freshly charged battery in, tried it with 4 different fresh batteries. I hook up my multimeter and there is power when the button is depressed, on the outside of the deck where the threads are, but there is none at the negative post... Thoughts? was hoping to have this going when it got here lol
 
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qorax

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Okay I feel like an idiot, I just got one in the mail, and it is getting no power, and yes I just put a freshly charged battery in, tried it with 4 different fresh batteries. I hook up my multimeter and there is power when the button is depressed, on the outside of the deck where the threads are, but there is none at the negative post... Thoughts? was hoping to have this going when it got here lol

Pls check the screw atop the post. It should touch the topcap for the device to fire.
 
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Moxienator

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Just FYI:

For those of you that would like to replace the small screw that connects the button together, it is an M3 thread.

For those of you that would like a button with more surface area, a cut-down positive pin from a Fat Daddy Vapes' 510 "classic" works WONDERS.

Pics will follow once I get home...
 
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Moxienator

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^ Good tips there @Moxienator :)
Thanks Q!

I'll be honest, this one sat on the sidelines for a bit while I vaped on my Peko's. I've been running two Derringers, each with dual tensioned 29ga 6/7 wraps, with 50% Nicoticket, 50% UFNB (1.2% nic, 91.8% vg, 7% h2o) for about 6 months solid. I decided I wanted to have some "lighter fog" machines around for unflavored when I'm in the house. Then I remembered the Vaper.

I threw a 6/7 wrap tensioned 29ga 5/64ths coil in it, then made a very thin 300# mesh wick (dimensions unkown - maybe 2layers thick?) for it. It's loose in the insulator. I've been trying to master this device using the fill port screw, and have yet to get the wicking right with it installed. This one is better, though when chain vaping (more like "....-break" style) it needs to be tilted.

I chose to run this as my unflavored device because I wanted to eschew the constant gunk of my flavored juices. A simple, no-fuss device that I can use when around non-vapers/ non smokers, that will be inoffensive and not create a haze.

When I put it back together after a full cleaning, I thought of this little modification. I've been substituting the 510 pins in Pekos for the switch, why not here? and Thus:

f36cdfc7b315e7054795c49d2418a874.jpg


Merely cut down the FD510 positive pin to a length of 3 or 4mm, and install.

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