I couldn't decide at first which version of the Electronicstix/Moju Republic Megalodon to go with, so I purchased both. I ordered the aluminum version from Electronicstix and the SS (stainless steel) from Moju. The aluminum version arrived within a few days and the SS version took 10 days to arrive from England. I picked up the Mako Midi at the same time just on a whim.
Both versions are identical in terms of manufacturing. The aluminum is obviously manufactured from aluminum with the 510/801 hybrid connector and button made of brass. The stainless version is constructed entirely of stainless steel.
Features of the Megalodon:
Both versions are multi battery compatible units. This means that you can utilize a wide variety of battery types and styles. I know that other types are available and should function, but I will limit myself to the ones I have been able to verify from my own stock of batteries. Both units functioned using AW 18650s and 18350s in IMR and protected versions. Both also functioned with the generic unknown make batteries sold on the Electronicstix site. The unit also functioned using 16340 batteries from AW both in protected and IMR.
The devices are mechanical mods with locking bottom buttons and adjustable "telescoping" negative terminal contacts which allow them to be adjusted to fit varying sizes of the same types of batteries. What it boils down to is that if you want to use a IMR battery, a protected battery, or batteries of the same type fromm different manufacturers, you can simply adjust the center post of the bottom button with a screwdriver to allow each type to fit and function. This also allows you to adjust the "throw" or the distance that you depress the bottom button to activate the device.
Quoted from the website: Compatible battery sizes in 3.7 Volt format include: 18650; 18350; 17670; 14650, 16340; CR123A to name a few. While if you want to experience some higher voltage vaping, the Don caters for 5 Volts (our own custom 5V battery); 6 Volts (2 x CR123A 3V); or 7.4 Volts (2 x 16340 3.7V)
The center section of the mod is removable to allow for a more compact device. This feature isn't particularly unique as several mods use similar methods. The ability to use one mod with several different size batteries and to be able to customize the overall size of the mod itself is a great feature for the end user.
If I want to go out for a short time and I don't feel like being conspicuous, I drop the center section, toss in a 18350 battery and toss on whatever atty, carto, or tank that I feel like using. If I plan on being out for a day, I pop in the 18650 and vape without worry about needing extra batteries.
Concerns about having to carry a screwdriver around are not necessary. The screw moves easily enough that I was able to make adjustments on the fly using all sorts of improvised items. I've even used a coffee stir stick on one occasion. In general, I use the same make/model of batteries most of the time so adjustments aren't entirely needed.
The newer versions (not sure exactly when the upgrade was made) have a wider top to allow the use of eGo specific attys like the eGo tanks. Nice feature but unnecessary for me. I'm not a fan of the eGo tank but I know people who are. The top connector is removable so that it can be switched with a 901/808d connector for fans of that style atty. The 510 version that came with mine also allowed the use of 801 attys without changing adapters. Neat feature but one that comes with consequences (see the cons section).
Features of the Mako:
The Mako (made by the same folks as the Don), uses 14XXX series batteries. Available in different lengths (Maksi 14650, Midi 14500, Minno 14250) the device is configurable in a similar manner to the Don. The different center tubes are supposedly available but were sold out at the time of my purchase. The button is identical to the Don and were interchangable. The atty connectors were also identical and interchangable between models. Even though I was able to use the 14500 battery in the Don, it feels far more correct in the Mako. All of the pros and cons of the Don apply equally to the Mako. My device came with a black finish on the tube and brass button and connector.
The Pros of the Don and Mako:
All mechanical, easily adjustable to fit a wide variety of manufacturers' batteries. The aluminum versions (Mako and aluminum Don) are very lightweight and pleasant to carry and use. The Don in SS is heavier but feels more balanced when used with my stainless tanks like the VPX or MAP. The Don's top cap diameter is a very close match to both of those tanks which gives the device a sleek appearance when using them, especially the non-tapered capped VPX tank. The SS Don comes with a somewhat rough machined finish which took a few moments to buff on a wheel buffer. It now sports a mirror finish which looks slick
All devices were well made, relatively durable, and reliable. No issues with the function as they came from the box. But there were a few things that irked me, which leads me to.....
The Cons of the Dons and Mako:
The only big con that I encountered was with the aluminum Don. It could be my corrosive nature, but the aluminum Don began looking oxidized and grungy within about 5 hours of my using it. By morning it was dark in some spots and cloudy in others. Being a former military/law enforcement guy, I couldn't leave it be. Polishing it became a near constant issue. Finally I took it out to the shop and matte blasted the entire device. Initially I covered the blasted finish in a coat of vehicle wax which kept it from corroding and maintained a beautiful matte silver finish. I later decided to coat the unit using Lauer Custom's Duracoat (a baked-on gun finish). I now have a beautiful semi-gloss black Don.
All three devices suffered from the same problem in my opinion: the new hybrid connector. In order to function with 801 and 510, the center post is set high. This is fine if you use 801s, but 510s won't seat flush with the threaded portion of the connector. Since I prefer to use 510 type attys/cartos, this left an unsightly gap. I stress that this had no noticable effect on function, just appearance.
The center post appears to be regular screw, which leads one to believe that it could be adjusted. One would be wrong. The screw is set on/in a free floating insulating sleeve. Turn all you like, nothing much will happen.
Initially this bothered me since my tanks were sitting with a large gap between the bottom of the tank and the top of the top cap. Fortunately I also ordered several extra 510 top connectors. So I proceeded to experiment.
Using the top cap of the Mako, I threaded the connector into it from the bottom. I then used a 3/32" pin punch to drive out the center post screw. I ground the screw down until it allowed a 510 atty to fully seat and still make a good connection. This took time, a lot of time. Patience is the key here. You can always remove metal, not so easy to put it back on. I used an old carto with the center post removed and a small oring to keep the insulator seated in the connector while driving in the center post. Once reassembled, the modified connector allowed carto tanks to sit flush and function flawlessly.
I modified one additional connector to allow the use of flanged carto tanks and maintain that same flush appearance. This was done by grinding down the outer portion of the connector's top. This countersunk the connector a tad and made the recently introduced Smoktech tanks sit flush.
This connector modification disabled its compatibility with the 801 attys. The Smoktech tank modified connector won't function with eGo specific attys anymore either. So technically speaking I would have 4 specific connectors set for each style atty that I may want to use: 1) 801, 2) eGo, 3) regular 510/carto/tank, 4) flanged carto tank.
Since the connectors are made so that they can be screwed in and out of the top cap using only a penny, it's not a really inconvenient issue.
I stress again that I'm a stickler for how my devices look, so these modifications I mentioned are not necessary for the devices to function.
Lastly, the devices are well made but not well finish prepped. The functions of the button and the threads are a tad rough when new. After a day or two of use, they do smooth out nicely. A dab of noalox on the threads smooths them up as well.
Conclusion:
If you want the Swiss Army Knife/SOPMOD M4 version of an e-cig mod, get the Don. You can use nearly any battery you like with whatever atomizer you like. You can also make it whatever overall size you might like, from mini stealth mod to D-cell flashlight. You can stack batteries or use a 5v battery. So many options all out of one mod.
Add in the Mako and you can interchange most of the parts in the event of a failure. The narrower Mako feels nice in some situations. The longer Don provides hours and hours of power. The short Don is easily hidden for stealth vaping mission. The aluminum Don is extremely light and comfortable. The SS Don is durable and darn near indestructible. It's also easy to maintain. The stainless can be buffed to a mirror finish with little subsequent polishing needed to maintain it.
The pricing of each unit is average for the market ~$145 for the SS Don (Moju), ~$105 for the aluminum Don, and ~$75 for the Mako. Availablity is tricky as it is with most mods. Sometimes you find one, sometimes you end up haunting the subforums or classifieds hunting one down.
Both versions are identical in terms of manufacturing. The aluminum is obviously manufactured from aluminum with the 510/801 hybrid connector and button made of brass. The stainless version is constructed entirely of stainless steel.
Features of the Megalodon:
Both versions are multi battery compatible units. This means that you can utilize a wide variety of battery types and styles. I know that other types are available and should function, but I will limit myself to the ones I have been able to verify from my own stock of batteries. Both units functioned using AW 18650s and 18350s in IMR and protected versions. Both also functioned with the generic unknown make batteries sold on the Electronicstix site. The unit also functioned using 16340 batteries from AW both in protected and IMR.
The devices are mechanical mods with locking bottom buttons and adjustable "telescoping" negative terminal contacts which allow them to be adjusted to fit varying sizes of the same types of batteries. What it boils down to is that if you want to use a IMR battery, a protected battery, or batteries of the same type fromm different manufacturers, you can simply adjust the center post of the bottom button with a screwdriver to allow each type to fit and function. This also allows you to adjust the "throw" or the distance that you depress the bottom button to activate the device.
Quoted from the website: Compatible battery sizes in 3.7 Volt format include: 18650; 18350; 17670; 14650, 16340; CR123A to name a few. While if you want to experience some higher voltage vaping, the Don caters for 5 Volts (our own custom 5V battery); 6 Volts (2 x CR123A 3V); or 7.4 Volts (2 x 16340 3.7V)
The center section of the mod is removable to allow for a more compact device. This feature isn't particularly unique as several mods use similar methods. The ability to use one mod with several different size batteries and to be able to customize the overall size of the mod itself is a great feature for the end user.
If I want to go out for a short time and I don't feel like being conspicuous, I drop the center section, toss in a 18350 battery and toss on whatever atty, carto, or tank that I feel like using. If I plan on being out for a day, I pop in the 18650 and vape without worry about needing extra batteries.
Concerns about having to carry a screwdriver around are not necessary. The screw moves easily enough that I was able to make adjustments on the fly using all sorts of improvised items. I've even used a coffee stir stick on one occasion. In general, I use the same make/model of batteries most of the time so adjustments aren't entirely needed.
The newer versions (not sure exactly when the upgrade was made) have a wider top to allow the use of eGo specific attys like the eGo tanks. Nice feature but unnecessary for me. I'm not a fan of the eGo tank but I know people who are. The top connector is removable so that it can be switched with a 901/808d connector for fans of that style atty. The 510 version that came with mine also allowed the use of 801 attys without changing adapters. Neat feature but one that comes with consequences (see the cons section).
Features of the Mako:
The Mako (made by the same folks as the Don), uses 14XXX series batteries. Available in different lengths (Maksi 14650, Midi 14500, Minno 14250) the device is configurable in a similar manner to the Don. The different center tubes are supposedly available but were sold out at the time of my purchase. The button is identical to the Don and were interchangable. The atty connectors were also identical and interchangable between models. Even though I was able to use the 14500 battery in the Don, it feels far more correct in the Mako. All of the pros and cons of the Don apply equally to the Mako. My device came with a black finish on the tube and brass button and connector.
The Pros of the Don and Mako:
All mechanical, easily adjustable to fit a wide variety of manufacturers' batteries. The aluminum versions (Mako and aluminum Don) are very lightweight and pleasant to carry and use. The Don in SS is heavier but feels more balanced when used with my stainless tanks like the VPX or MAP. The Don's top cap diameter is a very close match to both of those tanks which gives the device a sleek appearance when using them, especially the non-tapered capped VPX tank. The SS Don comes with a somewhat rough machined finish which took a few moments to buff on a wheel buffer. It now sports a mirror finish which looks slick
All devices were well made, relatively durable, and reliable. No issues with the function as they came from the box. But there were a few things that irked me, which leads me to.....
The Cons of the Dons and Mako:
The only big con that I encountered was with the aluminum Don. It could be my corrosive nature, but the aluminum Don began looking oxidized and grungy within about 5 hours of my using it. By morning it was dark in some spots and cloudy in others. Being a former military/law enforcement guy, I couldn't leave it be. Polishing it became a near constant issue. Finally I took it out to the shop and matte blasted the entire device. Initially I covered the blasted finish in a coat of vehicle wax which kept it from corroding and maintained a beautiful matte silver finish. I later decided to coat the unit using Lauer Custom's Duracoat (a baked-on gun finish). I now have a beautiful semi-gloss black Don.
All three devices suffered from the same problem in my opinion: the new hybrid connector. In order to function with 801 and 510, the center post is set high. This is fine if you use 801s, but 510s won't seat flush with the threaded portion of the connector. Since I prefer to use 510 type attys/cartos, this left an unsightly gap. I stress that this had no noticable effect on function, just appearance.
The center post appears to be regular screw, which leads one to believe that it could be adjusted. One would be wrong. The screw is set on/in a free floating insulating sleeve. Turn all you like, nothing much will happen.
Initially this bothered me since my tanks were sitting with a large gap between the bottom of the tank and the top of the top cap. Fortunately I also ordered several extra 510 top connectors. So I proceeded to experiment.
Using the top cap of the Mako, I threaded the connector into it from the bottom. I then used a 3/32" pin punch to drive out the center post screw. I ground the screw down until it allowed a 510 atty to fully seat and still make a good connection. This took time, a lot of time. Patience is the key here. You can always remove metal, not so easy to put it back on. I used an old carto with the center post removed and a small oring to keep the insulator seated in the connector while driving in the center post. Once reassembled, the modified connector allowed carto tanks to sit flush and function flawlessly.
I modified one additional connector to allow the use of flanged carto tanks and maintain that same flush appearance. This was done by grinding down the outer portion of the connector's top. This countersunk the connector a tad and made the recently introduced Smoktech tanks sit flush.
This connector modification disabled its compatibility with the 801 attys. The Smoktech tank modified connector won't function with eGo specific attys anymore either. So technically speaking I would have 4 specific connectors set for each style atty that I may want to use: 1) 801, 2) eGo, 3) regular 510/carto/tank, 4) flanged carto tank.
Since the connectors are made so that they can be screwed in and out of the top cap using only a penny, it's not a really inconvenient issue.
I stress again that I'm a stickler for how my devices look, so these modifications I mentioned are not necessary for the devices to function.
Lastly, the devices are well made but not well finish prepped. The functions of the button and the threads are a tad rough when new. After a day or two of use, they do smooth out nicely. A dab of noalox on the threads smooths them up as well.
Conclusion:
If you want the Swiss Army Knife/SOPMOD M4 version of an e-cig mod, get the Don. You can use nearly any battery you like with whatever atomizer you like. You can also make it whatever overall size you might like, from mini stealth mod to D-cell flashlight. You can stack batteries or use a 5v battery. So many options all out of one mod.
Add in the Mako and you can interchange most of the parts in the event of a failure. The narrower Mako feels nice in some situations. The longer Don provides hours and hours of power. The short Don is easily hidden for stealth vaping mission. The aluminum Don is extremely light and comfortable. The SS Don is durable and darn near indestructible. It's also easy to maintain. The stainless can be buffed to a mirror finish with little subsequent polishing needed to maintain it.
The pricing of each unit is average for the market ~$145 for the SS Don (Moju), ~$105 for the aluminum Don, and ~$75 for the Mako. Availablity is tricky as it is with most mods. Sometimes you find one, sometimes you end up haunting the subforums or classifieds hunting one down.
