DCT Tank Cartos - Flooding

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Rocketpunk

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Let's try to figure this out. I have an idea why this is happening, but I need more data from the rest of you.

Ok, when I got my first DCT tank, I had no idea how to prime a carto. Now I do. Drip 20-30 drips, going N E S W, and letting it soak into the polyfill. When it gets to that "crushed ice/slurpee" look, you fill the tank and then it's primed and ready to go (I usually do "dry" tokes, taking hits without hitting the fire button, to kinda soak up even more, first).

Now, a lot of my coworkers have lost faith in clearos, and they're interested in DCT tanks because a few of us figured out how to use them (not being cocky, I'm extremely thankful learning how from people here, etc).

Well, I think I figured out how a DCT carto can flood. Here is my theory: if you push the carto "down" out of the tank with your thumb, and then you pull the carto down into the tank, and leave a fraction of an inch open for a juice bottle nozzle to drip juice, that usually works. BUT, if you take the top o-ring off, fill up the tank with juice, and then push the top o-ring back onto the tank, it most DEFINTELY floods the carto. The forced air being pushed in when you pop that top cap back on will most assuredly push juice back up and into your carto. If you have two or three hole-punched cartos, it makes it even worse.

Anyone else discover the same thing?
 

Baditude

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Let's try to figure this out. I have an idea why this is happening, but I need more data from the rest of you.

Well, I think I figured out how a DCT carto can flood. Here is my theory: if you push the carto "down" out of the tank with your thumb, and then you pull the carto down into the tank, and leave a fraction of an inch open for a juice bottle nozzle to drip juice, that usually works. BUT, if you take the top o-ring off, fill up the tank with juice, and then push the top o-ring back onto the tank, it most DEFINTELY floods the carto. The forced air being pushed in when you pop that top cap back on will most assuredly push juice back up and into your carto. If you have two or three hole-punched cartos, it makes it even worse.

Anyone else discover the same thing?
Absolutely. This is why I tell new cartotank users to watch a YouTube video on how to fill a cartomizer tank before getting started. *watch video below

*By the way, I believe you meant to say end cap and not o-ring above. The lingo is confusing enough for newcomers without adding to their confusion by not naming parts correctly. I know you meant well. ;)



Other causes of a flooded cartomizer in a tank:

Juice got into the air hole when prepping the carto. Tip: Place a wooden toothpic in the hole when filling from the top.

Too many or too large of hole in the carto if self-punched. Tip: I prefer the factory laser-drilled cartos. They simply provide consistancy from carto to carto and remove any user error from the equation. One or two holes seem to work fine for most juices, thicker juices may require three holes. In my blog entries under my avatar I list several links to manufacturers who supply laser-drilled cartomizers.

Too deep of punched hole: Ruptured the air hole in the carto.

Filling the tank with the top cap off: Replacing the top cap with a full tank forces to much liquid into the carto because of the air/liquid pressure from the top cap. Tip: always fill a tank with both caps on, and the carto pulled at least half way down through the bottom endcap. A tank tool like the Slap-Yo-Momma is useful here to avoid liquid getting into the airhole of the carto. *already covered by the OP.

Too hard of a draw: Longer, slower, gentler draws work best with a carto tank to avoid pulling too much juice into the carto if flooding seems to be a persistant issue.

Video Demo on How to Fill a Carto Tank with a Pre-Punced Carto

 
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Rocketpunk

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Some of my vaping buddies who've only used clearos, bought the DCT tanks, took 'em home, and just did everything all wrong. Not their fault. They came back later like, "These suck!" And I was like, "No way, let me show you how I do it, and it works perfectly." So I hope to get them off those icky clearos and convert to the carto tank. I love mine! I have five, for different flavors.
 

Baditude

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Some of my vaping buddies who've only used clearos, bought the DCT tanks, took 'em home, and just did everything all wrong. Not their fault. They came back later like, "These suck!" And I was like, "No way, let me show you how I do it, and it works perfectly." So I hope to get them off those icky clearos and convert to the carto tank. I love mine! I have five, for different flavors.
There is a small learning curve with carto tanks, but if proper technique is used in prepping the carto, and properly assembling and filling the tank, they are the absolute best vaping experience that I have had yet. 99% of my vaping is done with cartotanks. 1% with ce3's to only test sample flavors.

An excellent quality cartomizer helps, too. ;)

Cartotanks are kind of my special interest thing. I must have a couple of dozen tanks. Click on the link in my sig to see some of my favorite tanks.
 
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Rocketpunk

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FYI... I find I get flooding if I prime the carto itself in a DCT. If I fill the tank, take about 5 hard draws (not firing the device) let it sit for about 5-10 mins, Repeat one more time, then I'm good and the cartos last about 2 weeks. I'm an over user. But it works :)

Yep, the "dry hit" method is pretty awesome. I'm glad we can all pool our info.
 

Susaz

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There are two things I don't like about carto tanks: Lack of flavor (I love the Kanger T2 but they flood frequently) and once you started a flavor, better vape it until the carto is dead. No washing, no changing flavors. I sometimes get dry hits, but priming, slow draws and low power (using a Smoktech DCT with double punch cartos with 30/70 juice) stop the dry hits somewhat. But I wouldn't have it as my prime vape...
 

Baditude

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There are two things I don't like about carto tanks: Lack of flavor and once you started a flavor, better vape it until the carto is dead. No washing, no changing flavors. I sometimes get dry hits, but priming, slow draws and low power (using a Smoktech DCT with double punch cartos with 30/70 juice) stop the dry hits somewhat. But I wouldn't have it as my prime vape...
Funny, I actually prefer cartotanks specifically because that method gives me the best flavor of any other device that I have tried. I would recommend that you try a good single coil carto at the appropriate ohm level for whatever voltages that you vape at.

I personally have fallen in love with the Ikenvape Platinums, pre-punched. https://www.ikenvape.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1860
 

myyrkezaan

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Some of my vaping buddies who've only used clearos, bought the DCT tanks, took 'em home, and just did everything all wrong. Not their fault. They came back later like, "These suck!" And I was like, "No way, let me show you how I do it, and it works perfectly." So I hope to get them off those icky clearos and convert to the carto tank. I love mine! I have five, for different flavors.

I must be your nemesis, I show people how to get off those icky cartos :).

I love my wicks, I have 7 and 1 ego-c type b for testing flavors. The type b did take a bit of time for me to get a technique that worked with it.

I've had bad experiences and tastes with all, but the cartos were more often and fouler tasting. I starting to like the CE2 cartos more, but I still can't get those to not flood on filling.
 

Susaz

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Funny, I actually prefer cartotanks specifically because that method gives me the best flavor of any other device that I have tried. I would recommend that you try a good single coil carto at the appropriate ohm level for whatever voltages that you vape at.

I personally have fallen in love with the Ikenvape Platinums, pre-punched. https://www.ikenvape.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1860

Filling usually gets soaked with flavor and nicotine while you get the burned PG/VG and some flavor. Everything with filling has the same problem. I vaped on cartos for a long time while on the KR808D and although great because it curbs my smoking cravings, really I get little or no flavor and no sweetness. I'll try some other brands over time, but really, I think that clearos are my best option for now.
 

Rocketpunk

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Wow, we have a G.I. Joe and a Cobra camp here.

I'm biased so I'm in the G.I. Joe category.

I finally did it, I gave away my ViVi Nova to a poor, unsuspecting victim. I know what's going to happen. She's gonna love it. And then something will happen that will piss her off. Leaking, icky tastes, burnt hits, the whole gamut. She'll come running back to me, asking, "What happened?! Do I soak it in vodka? For how long? How do I dry it? I washed it twice now the wicks are unraveling, I filled it but my battery won't fire..." (the pin pushed in too far thing), this, that, the other.

I am firmly in the non ViVi Nova/clearo camp. Never gonna waste a single dollar on them ever again.
 

Susaz

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When there was nothing else out there I loved cartos. But nowadays, and with things far better as CE3s I won't get into cartos anymore. Just today my DCT tank with Smoktech punched carto started flooding through the battery. My liquid is about 50 or 60% VG. I must have cleaned it at least 10 times during the day. It's even worse than the T2, at least for the time being. But the T2 I can wash, while a carto I can't. CE3 and T2 for me for the time being. When these CE3 Tank Cartomizer Inserts - Big Daddy~Lil Mama Tank / DCT / CE3 Tank - PV Parts/Mods come in, I might change my mind.
 

myyrkezaan

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Susaz

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@Rocketpunk: what are you going to say when she gets a bad carto? :) It's great that works for you, just didn't do it for me.

@Susaz: have you seen these:

CE2 Style Tank Replacement Dual Coil Cartomizers, 1.5 Ohms, Dual Hole
CE2 Style Tank Replacement Single Coil Cartomizers, 2.0 Ohms, Dual Hole

I just finished washing a set of coils for the vivis and a vivi knockoff, dry burned them and they look new.

Today I actually used an ego-c type b most of the time :).

That happened to me with Kanger T3. The 5 heads I had went down in just 11 days. Maybe it's handling, maybe misuse, who knows. Sometimes I hate vaping so much that go back to smoking for a few days.
 

myyrkezaan

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What kind of juices and ratios are you using? I have a T3 but haven't used it regularly like my Vivis, but my Vivi heads are lasting longer than that before I wash and reuse them.

I have heard that sometimes you get bad heads, did you look at the coils doing a dry burn? I've used the edge of a tweezer to space them a bit. You can also have a problem where that paper spacer or grommet is touching the coils which will give bad taste.

Once I finish the juice in the Vivis I'm going to be using the T3 and CE5 to see how they compare to the Vivis and then the 5ML ego clearo that I just got.

Have you tried any of the rebuildables? They have some that look simple, similar to the GotVapes Auto 5, where it is a tank that has wicks coming out of the bottom that go on top of an atomizer. Something like that is what I'll be trying next once I've recouped initial costs, after that will be a true rebuildable.

Also, what kind of device are you using and what ohms are your heads?
 

Susaz

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What kind of juices and ratios are you using? I have a T3 but haven't used it regularly like my Vivis, but my Vivi heads are lasting longer than that before I wash and reuse them.

I have heard that sometimes you get bad heads, did you look at the coils doing a dry burn? I've used the edge of a tweezer to space them a bit. You can also have a problem where that paper spacer or grommet is touching the coils which will give bad taste.

Once I finish the juice in the Vivis I'm going to be using the T3 and CE5 to see how they compare to the Vivis and then the 5ML ego clearo that I just got.

Have you tried any of the rebuildables? They have some that look simple, similar to the GotVapes Auto 5, where it is a tank that has wicks coming out of the bottom that go on top of an atomizer. Something like that is what I'll be trying next once I've recouped initial costs, after that will be a true rebuildable.

Also, what kind of device are you using and what ohms are your heads?

I don't have much patience with rebuildables, plus it's very expensive to get Kanthal or Nichrome, so it's cheaper to buy new heads. My T3 heads were fragile, bad contact with batteries, pull the pin ever so slightly and the coil lead just breaks. Never had a problem like that in my time vaping. Each and every one went down that way, and the last head had no threads to the clearo. I might give it another try, but a head costs what a CE3 3ml replacement costs, so I'd rather have CE3. I use mostly eGo twist and a eGo T passthrough, 3.7 to 4.2 volts. Most heads broke within hours one from the other. The last one gave up just as I was burning it and it just snapped... Upon autopsy, the lead broke.
 

DrOckW

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I'm starting to think that there are some variables that effect how a type of atty/carto/tank/ce works for each vaper:

1. Hit Strength - How do you puff, power of inhale, do you mouth puff or lung hit?

2. Duration of Burn - How long do you hit the button, do you stagger your firing, do you inhale after firing to help cool the coils?

3. Pacivape or Puff Puff Wait - Do you vape all day long, do you get your nic and then set it down?

Now these aren't questions to be answered here necessarily but it is my theory of why experiences differ.
 

myyrkezaan

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I'm starting to think that there are some variables that effect how a type of atty/carto/tank/ce works for each vaper:

1. Hit Strength - How do you puff, power of inhale, do you mouth puff or lung hit?

2. Duration of Burn - How long do you hit the button, do you stagger your firing, do you inhale after firing to help cool the coils?

3. Pacivape or Puff Puff Wait - Do you vape all day long, do you get your nic and then set it down?

Now these aren't questions to be answered here necessarily but it is my theory of why experiences differ.

Don't forget the juice and its ratio too.

Yes, I've noticed that as well. The ego-c type b, ce2 style carto and clearos require different techniques and sometimes slight variations within each style when changing the atomizer, carto, wick and resistance too.

A plethora of variability to confound the uninitiated, unprepared and unpatient.


Unpatient purposely used to match the other un words in that hoity toity sentence :).
 
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