Boro Mod's, Tanks, Attys And More
- Thread starter badinfluence357
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The Psyco and weekender kind of put my custom red n purple BB away. For this week.. still a red n purple frame incoming.
yup, 100% same dimension.
Compete because they have a better boost, and a silky smooth TC adjustment in the vape, and the information the display gives after one vape, and that the TC calibration also works better.
Now I have no experience with dna 100 nor dna 60 International, even though I have 3 chipsets lying around
But on everything else, I'll take Dicodes any day. that said, Dicodes is more pricey since they dont deliver chipset to China.
Good price for the GV dna 100C though
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How? Dicodes has low, med, and high boost and that's it. Dicodes also does sport Periodic Boost, which is machine gun boosting from .5 to 1 second apart. Well ok...
DNAs you can set the boost by wattage or temperature. Dicodes only does wattage boost.
How? Dicodes only adjust by 5°C/10°F steps. That is pretty coarse if you ask me. DNAs can adjust 10 times finer.
You get much more with DNA boards during and after a puff. Graphs and everything.
How? Dicodes uses TCR values while DNA uses the more accurate TFR curves. DNAs can compensate for heating and cooling along with internal resistance of the mod, Dicodes can not.
How does that work? Delivering chipsets to China adds 20% more cost since China adds a 20% tariff. Wouldn't that make them more expensive?
To upgrade the firmware with Dicodes boards, you toss the board in the rubbish and buy a new one. Which you will be doing anyway, since I don't think Dicodes is conformal coating their boards yet.
That's not a term I'd heard so searched it up. Is that a visible coating I see on the evolv pcbs?
Yes! Yihi does this too (after Evolv did) and followed by some other Chinese board manufactures. This protects the board from moisture and juice damage.
Is it possible my older DNA 60 boards don't have this, or have Evolv always used conformal coating? I can clearly see it on my newest boards.
True enough / some of what is said.How? Dicodes has low, med, and high boost and that's it. Dicodes also does sport Periodic Boost, which is machine gun boosting from .5 to 1 second apart. Well ok...
DNAs you can set the boost by wattage or temperature. Dicodes only does wattage boost.
How? Dicodes only adjust by 5°C/10°F steps. That is pretty coarse if you ask me. DNAs can adjust 10 times finer.
You get much more with DNA boards during and after a puff. Graphs and everything.
How? Dicodes uses TCR values while DNA uses the more accurate TFR curves. DNAs can compensate for heating and cooling along with internal resistance of the mod, Dicodes can not.
How does that work? Delivering chipsets to China adds 20% more cost since China adds a 20% tariff. Wouldn't that make them more expensive?
To upgrade the firmware with Dicodes boards, you toss the board in the rubbish and buy a new one. Which you will be doing anyway, since I don't think Dicodes is conformal coating their boards yet.
I don't know the fine details between them, and I'm not saying that Evolv is a bad chipset.
In my use, which is 100% mtl based, I feel that Dicodes provide a softer TC regulation, I have thought/felt that ever since I bought my first Limelight which came with BF 60 instead of DNA 60 which I should have had.
I prefer the difficult (actually very easy to learn) menu the Dicodes have, I prefer the information that the display provides in the TC, and I prefer the calibration system as well, and I've never felt that being able to adjust the temperature by 1˚F is important.
If, on the other hand, I changed atomizers very often, I would always prefer Evolv.
I don't think my taste buds are good enough to notice the advantages Evolv has over Dicodes.
Regarding coating, if you don't spray a new coating on the soldering points, you have reduced protection, and as far as I know, the chipset can be protected even if it is a Dicodes. Whether it will be as good as what is done at Evolv is another matter.
After a few days vaping the Ether boro rba - I rate it right up top for flavour. I've got a 0.5Ohm fused clapton and the 2.5mm af pin installed.
I know what you mean. It used to be applied really thin and you could only see it when the angle of light was just right. Nowadays it is applied much thicker and harder to miss. DNA60 PCB came out in 2016 and I know they were using conformal coating back in 2014 and maybe they always did.
Yes I can follow along with that for sure. They are a pretty good board after all.
Quite right. Evolv doesn't coat the solder pads, switches, or the USB port for obvious reasons. Even still, if the PCB does get wet or juiced, cleaning it will usually restore them back to operational once again.
Just a bit about conformal coating:
I learned from my last BB build that it's best to seal the atty positive ingress to the board before you do anything else. I made a mistake and had to retro fix that one.
There's a pretty amazing all-purpose putty called Loctite Kintsuglue.
Maybe I mentioned it before. Anyway, it has proved its worth fixing other stuff around the house (including a leak in the Xmas tree stand). Mouldable, flexible, waterproof, strong.
This is stage one of my second sxk custom build
There's a pretty amazing all-purpose putty called Loctite Kintsuglue.
Maybe I mentioned it before. Anyway, it has proved its worth fixing other stuff around the house (including a leak in the Xmas tree stand). Mouldable, flexible, waterproof, strong.
This is stage one of my second sxk custom build
Wow ! I was doing some catching up reading. Dna boards are coated but its still possible for It to get damaged. Most of the time it's the ribbon cable part that connects the screen that go's first. Then eventually it causes a short on the board, even if its coated...
Huh? Ribbon cable goes first? Then it shorts? Tell me more! Two years ago I had 92 DNA mods. Nowadays that number may be well over 100 (I stopped counting). And I never experienced this problem.
There was a rash of early DNA40 mods (remember VaporShark?) that had some cold solder joints connecting the ribbon cable to the board (just before they used ZIF sockets). This caused some dodgy displays. Again this happened with a few early batches of the DNA250C. This time it was cold solder joints on the ZIF sockets (I forgot to mention they are not coated either). This too caused dodgy displays. I have 5 DNA40 mods andover 30 (28 for sure) DNA250C mods and never experienced any dodgy displays or ribbon cable issues.
There was a rash of early DNA40 mods (remember VaporShark?) that had some cold solder joints connecting the ribbon cable to the board (just before they used ZIF sockets). This caused some dodgy displays. Again this happened with a few early batches of the DNA250C. This time it was cold solder joints on the ZIF sockets (I forgot to mention they are not coated either). This too caused dodgy displays. I have 5 DNA40 mods and
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I always thought those were plastic BB frames. But now I am not sure? Are they aluminum?
I should revise this. I have 28 DNA250C mods for sure. I haven't revised the list so that might be it or maybe some more.
Anodised aluminium. Each frame a paint job one-off . They are really well machined and honestly superior to a traditional aluminum BB imo. Lighter, better af/less condensation and slighter smaller in the hand.
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