Rebuilding your 510 Atomizer Step by Step - 801 & 901's too!

Status
Not open for further replies.

jimpma

Full Member
Dec 27, 2009
11
0
Massachusetts
THANK YOU!! all VERY good points! I have simply been using readily available materials, but as you point out, they may very well pose hazards I had not considered! The PVs I have made are for my own use, or at the request of friends who want to try them. I will have to find a source for the thinwall SS tubing in the sizes I found to be useful. As for the cup, the way I do my carts, I can probably use a very hard wood since it is not subject to close proximity with the element.

As I mentioned, the design does not 'wick to the reservoir' per se. The entire element and silica wick are inside the reservoir. These pics show brass, but should explain a bit better....

PV 001 001.jpg PV 001 002.jpg

The first is the coil, the second the parts to complete the cart.

Let's see if it works before I do the rest?
 

Vaporer

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 23, 2009
1,767
22
Away..
Nice design and those wood enclosures are beautiful. If you made the coils plug in with something like the IC sockets or SS screw setup(check Dan's Pill Fob Atty or G120 post by Kelemvor) in a SS tube and the ceramic paste plugged bottom....you may be selling those! The coils would be replaceable easily.
Dan found the Thermeez(SP) paste and someone sometime back posted a link for SS tubing. Thin wall too. K&S may make it as large as 1/2" for hobbyists. It does solder well too.

Very nice work!
 

jRP

Moved On
Jul 25, 2010
243
0
GA
Hey Vaporer, I have 6 dead atomizers that I finally decided to try and rebuild.
I took one apart today, and, well I don't have any wire :facepalm: (that I believe will work) I have no Nichrome what else will work? Trying to rebuild 510 attys with a standard resistance.
I read your thread very helpful by the way thank you very much for suppling ECF with that.

But it doesn't explain exactly what supplies are needed to re-wire an atty.
If you can please tell me what I will need to rebuild 510 atomizers I would greatly appreciate it.
I read on here to use Nichrome wire well no one carries Nichrome other then online vendors.
But when I took my atty apart I noticed the wires were insulated, black on one and a red on the other one. But all the images I saw online of Nichrome had no insulation..

what gauge wire should I use, how long should the wire be? I would like to know so I can re-build standard resistance attys and low resistance attys. Quite confused on all of the ohm and wire length for different ohms, etc, etc.
What wire do you use to connect the brass fitting to the Nichrome
I'm assuming, you use a wire not Nichrome, solder the wire to the brass fitting, then solder the wire to the Nichrome wire which is twisted in a spiral form to hold the wick, is this correct?

EDIT: What are you suppose to use for a wick?

Thank you Vaporer for all the information you have supplied.
Jon
 
Last edited:

Vaporer

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 23, 2009
1,767
22
Away..

jRP

Moved On
Jul 25, 2010
243
0
GA
Post #1 has the link back. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...zer-coil-101-actual-working-methods-only.html
Most supplies have to be ordered online.
Another nichrome wire source is: PnJ Resources, LLC : Nichrome 80

All of my tutorials were to be put in order in the library, but they were cut up and just parts pasted.
You can find them all from here:
Atomizer Mods


Wonderful vaporer, I read your post and most others in the thread you posted.
But I am still confused about the wiring part.
What insulated wire do you use that connects to the brass fitting that goes up through the white piece that holds the nichrome and wick.

I got everything else down except this part.

Thank you,
Jon
 

WillyB

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 21, 2009
3,709
591
USA

0xDeadC0de

Full Member
Dec 24, 2010
37
1
39
Colorado
Recently I've been on a 'rebuild the atomizer!!' kick, I ordered my 36 gauge nichrome wire from that store that sells 10ft for $2 with free s&h before I even found that site listed in the rebuild the atomizer threads, and am waiting for it to arrive in the mail. I'll need to go out and find some good wick material, maybe order the silica stuff online, I don't know yet...8-o

The reason I want to rebuild my atomizers is they keep getting an extremely foul taste after a week of usage :facepalm: (I'm a pretty heavy vaper :vapor:), and they lose performance pretty quick. I've found the performance can be temporarily restored with the boil clean method, but the foul taste eventually stops going away even with boiling for 20+ minutes. :(

The first atomizer I got with my kit wasn't fully dead, but I couldn't use it because it tasted horrendous every time I'd take a drag. so my first attempt I took a small propane hand torch, and cooked the crap out of it to get rid of the glue holding it together... Of course i did it all wrong and tore up the connector threads and basically destroyed it :facepalm:, but that did let me get a look inside.

About 45 minutes ago I finished fully taking apart and putting back together another 510 atomizer (from TW) that was starting to develop a bad taste, and performing like crap in general. (And, it still works, YAY! :evil:). 3 hours.. phew..

I had to torch it to get it apart, I tried boiling for 15 minutes as suggested in the rebuild thread, but it wouldn't come apart.. boiled longer, still nothing. so I put a pair of pliers around the gold colored band, put a rubber band around the plier handle so it wouldn't fall out, and used a torch to burn above the gold band..
I did a few 10 second burns (moving it all around trying not to stay in one spot, and making sure I didn't burn to low as to not melt the (rubber?) parts that keep the + and - seperated) and kept testing with another pair of pliers, until it finally started to wiggle, and was able to pull the connector out of the bottom with the atomizer core still intact. The band was still on the main cylinder, but the core was out.. I then separated the band from the cylinder with the torch, being a little (but not much) less careful now that I couldn't really destroy anything (And I had spare of this part from the first go). This was required to make it easier to re-assemble later..

I have 2 left in my multipack, one I'm using now, one spare - and the one I worked on that's now super easy to take apart. I can't wait to get the rest of the materials I need to finish the rebuild, replace the coil, wick, and the non conductive materials used to keep the wires from making contact where they shouldn't... I just read on here (something I've never seen on any TW forum thread :facepalm:) that LR atomizers can destroy ego batteries? That would be bad, I'll have to make sure it's over 2ohms right? :confused:

As soon as I can afford to, I plan on making a couple box mods of my own too, and playing around. I'm glad I found this place, what a great wealth of information. Thank you guys for existing! :evil:
 

tonyorion

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Jun 8, 2010
596
347
70
Michigan
Vaporer,

Great information! Thanks for the trememdous effort. Everything is very clear, but I do have some questins that may be linked to the coil rebuild, but I cannot seem to find the answer in either thread. What gage is the red wire? I assume it is just a plain vanilla solid copper insulated wire. Secondly, what holds the copper wire in place in the ceramic cup? Do you remove the copper wire completely from the base? Do you need to solder the new wire (soldered to the coil) in place or just insert them? How much bare copper wire do you place into the base? Thanks, Tony

I have not taken an atty apart yet and am waiting for my materials to come, so the answer may become self evident when I do.
 

tardcore

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 1, 2009
239
30
pittsburgh, pa
i love 510 attys, but i'm a dripper. as such, i tend to remove my wick ASAP from my attys, and usually the bridge too. all the atty-rebuilds i've seen seem to have TONS of wick involved, even the ato-miser from nhaler. just wondering what can be done for the drippers who don't really need wicking :) (if this has already been addressed elsewhere, i apologize for cluttering)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread