Has anyone rebuilt a 510 atomizer and posted their results? I've searched the forums by title for posts specific to this but haven't found anything. I'm asking because I've rebuilt one tonight and would be happy to pass on how I did it, but I don't want to redundant with the information if it is already out there.
If there is any interest in this, please be patient as I just got back from vacation on Saturday and need to et caught back up with work. This on top of the fact that our 16 year old cat was skin and bones when we got back, he apparently has failing kidneys... My wife is quite torn up about it as the prognosis is grim.
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Follow up I guess? All of these steps need to be done very carefully. It's tedious work, and I'm rethinking how I'm going about some of it. This method I'm using results in a drip only atty as the bridge gets destroyed.
I'm taking the broken atomizer apart by pressing the tube back and forth on a battery to move the tube up off the battery connector. Once the tube is removed there is an additional spacer that covers the guts of the atomizer which is also carefully removed.
At this point be careful not to damage or unwind the metal mesh on the core.
The wires going into the atomizer's core need to be cut close to the core as possible. Once the wires are cut, remove the bridge, it will pull out ripping the stainless foam/mesh. Remove the burnt out coil with a watchmaker screwdriver, the red positive side will be difficult to remove as it is bonded with the ceramic cup, use pliers for this. The insulation will strip off leaving a very small hole which you will have to feed the new coils nicrome through.
Once you disassembled to this point, wind a new coil using the " Making an Atomizer Coil 101" methods. I've been using the pin method. Leave enough nicrome wire to fit back through the ceramic cup, about 1/2 inch. Put the metal spacer back onto the core, it makes things a little easier and will help keep the metal mesh from unwinding while you work with it. Strip and solder the battery connector wires using the methods from the coil winding post, this is VERY tedious and you may end up having to replace the battery connector leads as well. make the solder joints as small as possible.
At this point, you can cover the solders with a dab of fingernail polish for a bit of electrical insulation. Also perhaps some thermal enamel. I've skipped this though and haven't had any problems with shorts yet...
Carefully put the assembly onto a battery to test it before putting the tube back on. Leave it on your battery to put the tube on. The atty core requires a quarter spin to get the wires into position for the tube to go back on. Press the tube into place. Thankfully the tube goes back on a lot easier than it comes off.
I'll add pictures and additional info as time allows... pending any interest.
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Please look here. I need more broken atties to work with.
If there is any interest in this, please be patient as I just got back from vacation on Saturday and need to et caught back up with work. This on top of the fact that our 16 year old cat was skin and bones when we got back, he apparently has failing kidneys... My wife is quite torn up about it as the prognosis is grim.
-------------------
Follow up I guess? All of these steps need to be done very carefully. It's tedious work, and I'm rethinking how I'm going about some of it. This method I'm using results in a drip only atty as the bridge gets destroyed.
I'm taking the broken atomizer apart by pressing the tube back and forth on a battery to move the tube up off the battery connector. Once the tube is removed there is an additional spacer that covers the guts of the atomizer which is also carefully removed.
At this point be careful not to damage or unwind the metal mesh on the core.
The wires going into the atomizer's core need to be cut close to the core as possible. Once the wires are cut, remove the bridge, it will pull out ripping the stainless foam/mesh. Remove the burnt out coil with a watchmaker screwdriver, the red positive side will be difficult to remove as it is bonded with the ceramic cup, use pliers for this. The insulation will strip off leaving a very small hole which you will have to feed the new coils nicrome through.
Once you disassembled to this point, wind a new coil using the " Making an Atomizer Coil 101" methods. I've been using the pin method. Leave enough nicrome wire to fit back through the ceramic cup, about 1/2 inch. Put the metal spacer back onto the core, it makes things a little easier and will help keep the metal mesh from unwinding while you work with it. Strip and solder the battery connector wires using the methods from the coil winding post, this is VERY tedious and you may end up having to replace the battery connector leads as well. make the solder joints as small as possible.
At this point, you can cover the solders with a dab of fingernail polish for a bit of electrical insulation. Also perhaps some thermal enamel. I've skipped this though and haven't had any problems with shorts yet...
Carefully put the assembly onto a battery to test it before putting the tube back on. Leave it on your battery to put the tube on. The atty core requires a quarter spin to get the wires into position for the tube to go back on. Press the tube into place. Thankfully the tube goes back on a lot easier than it comes off.
I'll add pictures and additional info as time allows... pending any interest.
-------------------
Please look here. I need more broken atties to work with.
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