mechanical mod or not?

[ChrisBBacon]

ipv s are a bit hit and miss quality wise sounds like steamer got a wafty one I have one and it's great all fits together properly and no problems the v3 will do 100w and is upgradable to 150w in the future just remember not to skimp on batteries or you will end up in a whole other world of pain purple efests or Sony vtc4/5 ect no eBay c4 ones

 

[Tcar]

For what it's worth, I'd tell the op to watch some reviews like pbusardo or riptrippers on YouTube and look twoard a regulated device. Hell, a eLeaf Istick would be a decent enough VW starter to drip on as long as you build over 1.1 ohm and it only costs $35 bucks. Regulated devices are great for dripping and using RDA & RBA's on. Really that's what the are exactly made for. The whole point of sub ohm vapeing is to get higher watt levels out of straight battery voltage. No need to go sub on regulated devices. I've been vaping for a year and use both mechs and regulated mods, depending on what I am going after in a vape.

 

[WarbossChoppa]

I went from an iTaste Leo to a mech mod and I would say it is worth it. The start cost is a bit high but once you get all the tools and supplies you're set for life. Plus I find flavors are way more awesome in a mech mod after getting the same flavor I used on my iTaste for my mech but with a much lower Nic content and VG/PG ratio difference.

If you're the kind of person that loves to build things and would take vaping further as a hobby then go for it.

 

[monkey39]

I have both, but definitely prefer regulated mods for day-to-day vaping, and especially love the Sigelei 100 watt I got a few weeks ago. But then I'm kinda lazy - I can build decent coils, but I don't like fooling around with them all the time, which you would have to do to change your vape with a mech mod. That's the same reason I use rebuildable tanks like Kayfuns and Foggers instead of drippers - I like to fill up and vape, instead of having to constantly drip.

You're going to get a lot of opinions about this - regulated vs mech mods is one of those hot topics in the vaping world. I would say that you really need to figure out what type of vaper you are, and go from there. Good luck!

 

[123gt]

With all the high watt regulated mods out now a regulated mod is all I use.

 

[longhornvap]

Mechanical mods.

 

[ronnbert]

Ipv s are a bit hit and miss quality wise sounds like steamer got a wafty one I have one and it's great all fits together properly and no problems the v3 will do 100w and is upgradable to 150w in the future just remember not to skimp on batteries or you will end up in a whole other world of pain purple efests or Sony vtc4/5 ect no eBay c4 ones

The IPV3 can do 150 watts currently. I have hit one at 120 & 130, and have seen it hit at 150. Also, I would be weary of the purple efests, the 35 amps they claim are pulse, not continuous.

OP: I would recommend a regulated box mod. I currently have a mechanical, and while it is good, the regulated mod has so much more potential with it. I will be getting one, hopefully before Christmas if my budget can handle it.

They are better to learn on, and you can customize your vaping needs even more.

 

[ChrisBBacon]

All the batteries I've seen have pulse discharge ratings but tbh that's all we are doing with them really and unless your doing really low sub ohming the continuous discharge rating is usually more than enough

 

[ronnbert]

All the batteries I've seen have pulse discharge ratings but tbh that's all we are doing with them really and unless your doing really low sub ohming the continuous discharge rating is usually more than enough

All batteries have a pulse rating and a continuous rating. The pulse rating will always be higher than the continuous rating.

Continuous rating means that it will handle that amp limit if you continuously hold the button down without failing. Pulse rating means it will handle that amp limit in a very short period of time, generally meant for devices that have a high initial spark of energy for a fraction of a second and then uses a smaller amount throughout use. Every battery maker and end user has a different definition for the word pulse. While I may say fraction of a second and you may say 6-10 second, the manufacturer may say millisecond.

There is no surefire way of knowing this exact definition without consulting the manufacturer themselves. This is why anyone who knows what they are doing will say to go by the continuous rating. No matter how long you hold down the button, it will work safely, provided the battery is used correctly and is in good, working order.

Building the build below the continuous rating will put it into the pulse range and makes it inherently dangerous. That is why I stay within the continuous amp limit, and even allow myself a 10-20% margin of error, in case the ohms fluctuate, and to allow the accuracy of my ohm meter a bit of wiggle room (even though it is pretty precise and reads down to the thousandths place).

 

[Hulk]

Thanks everyone again! i am going to go with a regulated mod, I have a Kangertech Evod vv with a genitank mini, Vapes are good but kinda lame compared to these mech mods and sub-ohm builds.

But i have a question, could i drip with an atomizer on my kangertech? would it be worth it to make a 1.1 ohm and drip that? it would be a quick and cheap upgrade before i make the big leap.

 

[ronnbert]

Thanks everyone again! i am going to go with a regulated mod, I have a Kangertech Evod vv with a genitank mini, Vapes are good but kinda lame compared to these mech mods and sub-ohm builds.

But i have a question, could i drip with an atomizer on my kangertech? would it be worth it to make a 1.1 ohm and drip that? it would be a quick and cheap upgrade before i make the big leap.

You could try, as long as it is above an ohm, most batteries do have a cut-off where it won't fire below a certain resistance. I would look up the specs for that particular battery and go right above the limit. It won't be great, but at least a way to get comfortable with building before making the leap.

 

[Luse]

My 2¢ READ as much as you can on Safety, Coil building, etc. & as you do start to gather necessary supplies i.e. Charger, Battery, DMM/cheap Ohm reader, then when your ready to buy your 1st. Mod you have everything you need.
And just throwing this out there, when I made the decision to go ahead & try out a mod I bought a clone of the Mod I was interested in on FT for like $16.00, the way I look at it if you don't like building coils or the way they feel it will only cost you a few bucks and you won't have to worry about dropping it, marring it (especially if you have an original at $100+), and if you do like it you can always upgrade to a better one and have a practice/test piece/backup that you can knock around.
I hope this helps
Vape On!

 

[Hulk]

My 2¢ READ as much as you can on Safety, Coil building, etc. & as you do start to gather necessary supplies i.e. Charger, Battery, DMM/cheap Ohm reader, then when your ready to buy your 1st. Mod you have everything you need.
And just throwing this out there, when I made the decision to go ahead & try out a mod I bought a clone of the Mod I was interested in on FT for like $16.00, the way I look at it if you don't like building coils or the way they feel it will only cost you a few bucks and you won't have to worry about dropping it, marring it (especially if you have an original at $100+), and if you do like it you can always upgrade to a better one and have a practice/test piece/backup that you can knock around.
I hope this helps
Vape On!

Yeah good point, mod clones are so cheap!!! i don't feel like dropping $120 on something just yet... But Sales are COMING!!!!

 

[pjjones]

also, for starting out, a 30-50w mod could surprise you. I got a nemesis shortly before my hana clone arrived, and I was blown away by it, but is spends most of it's time sitting on my desk while the 23w VW satisfies me at 0.8 ohms in a big drippper. go VW! either a hana clone, cloupor T5, sigelei 50-100, or the ones that had been mentioned.

 

[Hoax]

I went from an iTaste VV/VW to a IPV2 then on to a Copper Overdose clone. The only thing I wish I had done differently is not spent the money on the iTaste, it now belongs to my dad who quit smoking and went to vaping. I was intimidated by building my own coils until someone showed me just how easy it is! I now love to sub-ohm on my Copper Overdose with a Mutation X dripper. I spend a lot of time playing with new coils and resistances, my favorite coil is a dual parallel macro coil at about .25 ohm. I really liked my IPV2 for the exact reason everyone else has stated, when you are learning to build it is much more forgiving to adjust your watts than build a new coil, especially when you are in a hurry to get back to what you were doing before. I have only run my IPV at 50watts a couple of times and that is after really learning my coils and wicking technique. In my opinion you can have the best equipment but if you do not have the coil building and wicking skills to push your device to its max potential then you will never really enjoy it. Burnt cotton taste like booty! Remember safety safety safety, it may sound lame but if your are not putting safety first in all of this then you will get hurt. Oh and make sure you remember to put your top cap on the dripper before hitting it, I still have a little mark on my bottom lip from a hot coil

Peace

 

[Hulk]

also, for starting out, a 30-50w mod could surprise you. I got a nemesis shortly before my hana clone arrived, and I was blown away by it, but is spends most of it's time sitting on my desk while the 23w VW satisfies me at 0.8 ohms in a big drippper. go VW! either a hana clone, cloupor T5, sigelei 50-100, or the ones that had been mentioned.

I went from an iTaste VV/VW to a IPV2 then on to a Copper Overdose clone. The only thing I wish I had done differently is not spent the money on the iTaste, it now belongs to my dad who quit smoking and went to vaping. I was intimidated by building my own coils until someone showed me just how easy it is! I now love to sub-ohm on my Copper Overdose with a Mutation X dripper. I spend a lot of time playing with new coils and resistances, my favorite coil is a dual parallel macro coil at about .25 ohm. I really liked my IPV2 for the exact reason everyone else has stated, when you are learning to build it is much more forgiving to adjust your watts than build a new coil, especially when you are in a hurry to get back to what you were doing before. I have only run my IPV at 50watts a couple of times and that is after really learning my coils and wicking technique. In my opinion you can have the best equipment but if you do not have the coil building and wicking skills to push your device to its max potential then you will never really enjoy it. Burnt cotton taste like booty! Remember safety safety safety, it may sound lame but if your are not putting safety first in all of this then you will get hurt. Oh and make sure you remember to put your top cap on the dripper before hitting it, I still have a little mark on my bottom lip from a hot coil

Peace

Thanks guys for the advise! I am going to do a VV and/or VW mod. Like you said, its best to learn how to build a coil and learn than just go to a mech mod and have it blow up in your hands.

I can't wait for Black Friday SALES!!! that's when i will probably buy one.


Thank you again!!! this helps me a lot

 

[Luse]

My 1st. was a Nemesis clone (ended up w/ 2 a FT & a HCigar), and I was able to buy a original tube cheap. I realized so far (still beginning), ea.one has its quirks i.e. better tolerances on HCig. But horrible switch. I actually spend more time fixing probs. w/ the Mod(s) then building coils and very important that I learned you really need another person so you have something to compare your mod when it starts acting weird.
Just 4 ex. My HC. Mod came w/ copper contacts but I can only press in a certain spot to fire but it screws on like butter (lol), but the FT. hits fine but the tolerances aren't as good (slight wobble). I'm just saying expect to end up treating your mod like your 1st. car.
You really need to become slightly proficient in basic Mechanics, Electronics, etc. it can be very frustrating BUT when everything's right it is all worth it.
IMPORTANT I don't know if this is the right thread or so but I think everyone should know BE CAREFUL using those Ohm/Voltage checkers. I have/had the Smok Omnitester & I went to check the voltage so I screwed on my Mod flipped the switch to voltage & pressed down (I had only really used that feature a few times & kept it in its box when not in use), anyway in about a second the switch was extremely hot and I could badly touch the tube. I was looking at the display & all it took was a second before I almost lost my or set my house ablaze(also stupid me Please learn from my dumb actions as I tried it again after waiting a bit & used a different battery that one took less then a second w/ smoke coming out by the switch so lesson learned I lost 2 batteries although they cooled down after unscrewing everything to get the battery out (a potential pipe bomb),
Ironically the Ω tester still works & I did test it again but with a ego battery that has protection built in & it gave me the same results w/o potential harm. I just wanted (especially the newcomers), to understand that there is no safety net BUT YOU. So make sure you have a backup (a Multimeter, protected battery, etc. I am lucky to have both & it is always good to have another way to test, & compare results.
I had all 3 & even though it wouldn't have been able to stop what happened at least I still have a way to test. Had that been the only tool I would be looking at some downtime until I could get a replacement.
I'm writing this as a (hopefully) cautionary tale on the tools we use w/ our Mods.
Thanks for listening & Be Safe