Thanks I didnt mean to highjack the thread , just trying to get more info
NEXT !
good deal on the airfoil design , thanks
NEXT !
good deal on the airfoil design , thanks
Making an Atomizer Coil 101 (Actual Working Methods Only)
- Thread starter Vaporer
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Jacobs Online - Nichrome Wire
Minimum order is 10 feet, ($2.00 for 36 gage), free shipping, assuming you are in the states. Not sure where on "Earth" you are..
I have bought 30, 32, 34, 36 and 38 from them. Quick service.
i run out of silica, so i been busting ope my evo's and getting the rods out but hey so damb small i keep droppin them or snapping them in my hand.so thinkin it would work u know ? but what happened was the ni wire like exploded firing out the lead like bullet.so, i tried connecting the wires at the break and every time i fired up now empty nichrome wire it would break at the conection.any ideas pencil lead seemed so perfect....
I may be full of something here, but doesn't pencil lead contain graphite? And if I remember correctly, graphite is conductive. So I think what you are doing is shorting out most of the coil and that's why the ends burn up.
However, I digress because this thread is for WORKING methods only. Perhaps the OP could suggest where this post and the last one should have gone.
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I havent put an order in to Jacobs for 6 months.
They didn't use to stock 36ga. Have to order some. Tnx for the Update.
Graphite is conductive and is not suitable for a core.
This thread is supposed to be archived in the near future and those posts will be deleted for being off topic and adding no constructive content so its no big deal.
Questions like that would be more suited in crazyhorse's Atomizer Rebuild thread.
They didn't use to stock 36ga. Have to order some. Tnx for the Update.
Graphite is conductive and is not suitable for a core.
This thread is supposed to be archived in the near future and those posts will be deleted for being off topic and adding no constructive content so its no big deal.
Questions like that would be more suited in crazyhorse's Atomizer Rebuild thread.
I think I have brain damage.
I've been using 36ga (27ohms per ft) in all my tutorials!
I have no idea where that comment came from or what I was thinking.
No........I don't drink either. lol
Factory wire is 38ga and 36ga makes a fine heavier replacement.
Now if I can remember that!
I've been using 36ga (27ohms per ft) in all my tutorials!
I have no idea where that comment came from or what I was thinking.
No........I don't drink either. lol
Factory wire is 38ga and 36ga makes a fine heavier replacement.
Now if I can remember that!
boredoutofmynut
Send me a Pm I will send a foot of 3/8 loose wond silca rope I have if that will help.
Ive got plenty .
Send me a Pm I will send a foot of 3/8 loose wond silca rope I have if that will help.
Ive got plenty .
thanks trader dan, i got zipo wick, i appreciate ur gesture, any way can help u give me a shout.
i just found the m401 to be the best atty and wanted to stay as close to the original as possible
again i nthank u traderdan for president
i just found the m401 to be the best atty and wanted to stay as close to the original as possible
again i nthank u traderdan for president
Ebay does have 35ga NiCH wire $3.99 for 30' shipped.
I did the math and ordered some. It should fit in most attys for the length needed.
I'll post a pic of a coil, if it fits.
I've used 34ga in an 801 only. The ohms drop on 34ga makes the length pretty tough to stuff a factory cup without shorting the coil. It's certainly not impossible, but the heat distortion leads to frequent failures. Not a good thing. In a redesigned atty cup, 34ga would work in a more spacious environment.
I did the math and ordered some. It should fit in most attys for the length needed.
I'll post a pic of a coil, if it fits.
I've used 34ga in an 801 only. The ohms drop on 34ga makes the length pretty tough to stuff a factory cup without shorting the coil. It's certainly not impossible, but the heat distortion leads to frequent failures. Not a good thing. In a redesigned atty cup, 34ga would work in a more spacious environment.
HOW IN HELL do you get those TINY solder joints??!!!
Mine all are to big to seat the coil in the cup! Using a 40 watt soldering iron now 'cause the other was just 25 watts. Still not getting the nicrome to solder clean!!!(sigh)
OOOO Look at the difference between 410 and 501 atty cups !!!!
And the coil was in a horse shoe shape!!!!!
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DVap, PM sent. Appreciate it.
rbonie,
It takes a little practice. If the solder is "blobing on the wire it can be a few reasons.
1. lack of heat or flux.
2. Soldering iron not cleaned of excess solder
Once you have the wires secured together with the dab of flux as in the picture, you should shake any excess solder from the iron and wipe it clean with a damp sponge or damp paper towel. It should be shiney. Touch the irons tip to the tin of flux and then to the joint. In abt 3 sec the joint should be hot enough to solder. The solder should be touched to the joint, not the iron. The solder should melt to the wires, flowing nicely and the excess will go to the clean iron tip. If the tip isnt clean, it will want to blob on the wire. You can clean the tip and just reheat the joint. Any excess solder should flow to the tip.
I'm begining to see many different setups and coils from pics posted. I can't possibly own all models , nor do I care to. I prefer to just have a few diff models that I can rebuild easily. Interesting on the horseshoe coil. I'm surprized its fed well, but without having one in hand to examine its impossible to say. The disposeable e cig has no feed system other than a wick. No mesh and works well.
Keep practicing with a clean iron and you'll have the "small" joints down in no time.
rbonie,
It takes a little practice. If the solder is "blobing on the wire it can be a few reasons.
1. lack of heat or flux.
2. Soldering iron not cleaned of excess solder
Once you have the wires secured together with the dab of flux as in the picture, you should shake any excess solder from the iron and wipe it clean with a damp sponge or damp paper towel. It should be shiney. Touch the irons tip to the tin of flux and then to the joint. In abt 3 sec the joint should be hot enough to solder. The solder should be touched to the joint, not the iron. The solder should melt to the wires, flowing nicely and the excess will go to the clean iron tip. If the tip isnt clean, it will want to blob on the wire. You can clean the tip and just reheat the joint. Any excess solder should flow to the tip.
I'm begining to see many different setups and coils from pics posted. I can't possibly own all models , nor do I care to. I prefer to just have a few diff models that I can rebuild easily. Interesting on the horseshoe coil. I'm surprized its fed well, but without having one in hand to examine its impossible to say. The disposeable e cig has no feed system other than a wick. No mesh and works well.
Keep practicing with a clean iron and you'll have the "small" joints down in no time.
No problem, the idea here is to teach. Just to post the pics and say "do it" doesnt always get it done. When you hit a snag like you did, asking is what you should do so it can be explained in more detail or a better way so you can succeed.
Make sure to loosen and retighten the tip as described. It doesnt take long for a tip to oxidise on the threads which really cuts the tips heat down. Leaving the iron plugged in for long periods of time causes this to happen faster and it will need to be done more often.
Make sure to loosen and retighten the tip as described. It doesnt take long for a tip to oxidise on the threads which really cuts the tips heat down. Leaving the iron plugged in for long periods of time causes this to happen faster and it will need to be done more often.
S' a new gun so thats ok..
Heating the joint for 3 seconds first seems to be the key. Check this joint. Much improvment.
Also, that 510 atty w the horse shoe coil. I think it's one of the HighTest atties . Higher ohms for higher volt mods. Check the air holes all around the top!!
Thats a nice looking joint! Good job. If your wires are "locked" that wont give out easily.
Still hard to tell on the feed for the horseshoe. The best indicator is how the deposit on the coil is. If its even across the coil, thats good. A buldge in the middle is showing more mist hitting there, but it also gets hot there 1st, is hot there longer and is the hottest place on the coil. Some consideration has to be taken. I have seen some with middle buldges and clean ends! Not good at all.........
Us old timers use to read the spark plugs when changing them in our cars......pretty much the same kinda thing with coils.
The ideal situation would be to have no buildup at all. That just doesnt seem possible with the operational voltage range swing of the 3.7v systems. Regulated 5v stand a better chance if the ohms can be adjusted to produce vapor at that voltage, but not hot enough carbon the liquid. Liquids vary a lot due to flavors alone. It almost seems doing this would go against the reason for going HV in the first place, but could result in a very long lasting atty that could be cleaned if heat can be kept below the carbon producing point.
There is a lot to consider when making a coil. So, learn to make them first as a good replacement for your broken equipment and then you can experiment working on the other problems.
Again......nice work on that solder joint.
Still hard to tell on the feed for the horseshoe. The best indicator is how the deposit on the coil is. If its even across the coil, thats good. A buldge in the middle is showing more mist hitting there, but it also gets hot there 1st, is hot there longer and is the hottest place on the coil. Some consideration has to be taken. I have seen some with middle buldges and clean ends! Not good at all.........
Us old timers use to read the spark plugs when changing them in our cars......pretty much the same kinda thing with coils.
The ideal situation would be to have no buildup at all. That just doesnt seem possible with the operational voltage range swing of the 3.7v systems. Regulated 5v stand a better chance if the ohms can be adjusted to produce vapor at that voltage, but not hot enough carbon the liquid. Liquids vary a lot due to flavors alone. It almost seems doing this would go against the reason for going HV in the first place, but could result in a very long lasting atty that could be cleaned if heat can be kept below the carbon producing point.
There is a lot to consider when making a coil. So, learn to make them first as a good replacement for your broken equipment and then you can experiment working on the other problems.
Again......nice work on that solder joint.
I rebuilt an atty with the methods described on this thread but am wary of using it because the wick has some weird odor/taste to it. Is this normal and is there a method to break it in or what ?
I used the McMaster-Carr loose knit fire wick.
I used the McMaster-Carr loose knit fire wick.
The wick should have no "flavor" what so ever. Did something get on it during building?
The most common contaminant would be flux or possibly something that was on your fingers or the form.
The coil should be well rinsed in warm/hot water and dried prior to use.
This is the 1st instance of a bad flavor I've read of and just about everyone I know or have read, consulted with uses this material for wicking.
Many will prime the wick with plain PG/VG prior to using to prevent an initial dry burnt taste.
Factory atomizers are shipped primed.
For safety reasons due to unknowns, I'd make a new wick and insure everything is clean.
Inhaling an unknown bad flavor isn't a safe practice and you were right to stop using it till the reason can be found. If you think your wick may have a foreign material on it, it should be rinsed prior to being used.
The most common contaminant would be flux or possibly something that was on your fingers or the form.
The coil should be well rinsed in warm/hot water and dried prior to use.
This is the 1st instance of a bad flavor I've read of and just about everyone I know or have read, consulted with uses this material for wicking.
Many will prime the wick with plain PG/VG prior to using to prevent an initial dry burnt taste.
Factory atomizers are shipped primed.
For safety reasons due to unknowns, I'd make a new wick and insure everything is clean.
Inhaling an unknown bad flavor isn't a safe practice and you were right to stop using it till the reason can be found. If you think your wick may have a foreign material on it, it should be rinsed prior to being used.
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I figured it out. I ordered the fiberglass rope. Yuk. F.Y.I. Order
8828K73 from h t t p ://w w w.mcmaster.com/#silica-rope/=606tf5
Anyone want to buy 12" of fiberglass rope.
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