Just Stainless Steel Wick and Filler

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BJ43

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I've noticed that when I roll my 270 wicks, for example, to get a fat 3mm wick I end up using 30-40% more mesh vs. 400.

Do you think the increased material could 'equalize' the difference between, say, 270 vs. 400? Less efficiency wrt to hole size, but more holes kind of a thing?

Strange that you would use more material with 270 that is thicker and has a bigger wire diameter than 400.
 

Cyrus Vap

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Strange that you would use more material with 270 that is thicker and has a bigger wire diameter than 400.

Is that always the case though? My 325 is more pliable and feels thinner than my 400, same with 270 compared to 325 and 400. The 170 I got from Quigs on the other hand feels tougher and much thicker than all of them.

When I placed them all under the microscope and did a hole count, I didn't see any noticeable difference in wire diameter except on the 170, but then again I wasn't paying much attention to this, more focused on counting boxes like a lunatic lol

I'll have to look up the specs at the mesh company later on

EDIT: Just looked, well you're right, the wire diameter increases as you go lower in mesh#. But I have to say again, they don't feel or manipulate as if they're thicker at all, quite the opposite. Except the 170 that stuff is brickhouse.
 
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Cyrus Vap

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I have a dense mother of a 400 mesh wick in my DID now, tiny pin hole.

Its wicking so hard that I chain vaped it vertical all morning and couldn't get a dry hit out of it at 1.5 ohm/4.2 volts. Its crackling, snapping and popping incessantly like a pop corn maker lol. Sounds like things are flooding, yet it doesn't vape that way.
 

BJ43

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I have a dense mother of a 400 mesh wick in my DID now, tiny pin hole.

Its wicking so hard that I chain vaped it vertical all morning and couldn't get a dry hit out of it at 1.5 ohm/4.2 volts. Its crackling, snapping and popping incessantly like a pop corn maker lol. Sounds like things are flooding, yet it doesn't vape that way.
Tight is good in wicks and other pleasures....:D
 

BJ43

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Masters of steel quick question. I use genesis style most of the time. I have a ERA rba coming for a bottom feeder. Most to all are using silka, do you think mesh, and filler could work in these?

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk 2
Hope someone else can help you as I have zero experience with bottom feeders.
 

BJ43

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...you say tight makes the juice flow better..?
Tightly wound 400 mesh wicks better. The closer the holes are to each other the less effort for juice to rise against gravity.
Flow is something else that is aided by gravity and the fluid is going down, here I am talking about capillary action (wicking) which is fluid going up against gravity.
By the way not tight in in the wick hole.
 
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Dmorr123

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Is there anyway you could show a pic of your wick? I just want to see how it compares to mine. Not that I'm having any real bad wicking on my DID, but I want to see how dense you made yours.



I have a dense mother of a 400 mesh wick in my DID now, tiny pin hole.

Its wicking so hard that I chain vaped it vertical all morning and couldn't get a dry hit out of it at 1.5 ohm/4.2 volts. Its crackling, snapping and popping incessantly like a pop corn maker lol. Sounds like things are flooding, yet it doesn't vape that way.
 

Cool_Breeze

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By the way not tight in in the wick hole.

...was wondering about that. I have a Smoktech Gen-Style tank and mesh on the way...probably arriving Monday. I 'might' do the first fill with Cotton just for reference. I'll probably go for the slant hole mod for the long term. I wonder if it is useful to smooth/polish the wick hole for less opportinity to conduct. Or pehraps an insulating gromet of some as of yet unthoughtof material can be inserted into a larger than necessary wick hole.

I thought of getting two tanks. As I have said, the market is moving quickly these days and I'm a ways from even getting to open four new Echo Crystal Vision cartos still in their wrappers. If the Smoktech tank proves very successful, I may move to a 510 based mod. I've been very loyal to 808. It would be scary to move to 510 as so much more product is available. 808 keeps one from dabbling excessively. Then again I might benefit from a hand-me-down friend.

I'll be reviewing the various sources on wick treatment, etc. over the weekend.
 

BJ43

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MaxUT

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Oxidizing: First of all oxidizing is a process that takes time and patience. It can be done to the wick before or after wrapping the coil. Sometimes I do the wick and then give it one more heating and cooling after I wrap the coil. To oxidize you wet the wick with tap water, heat the part under the coil until red hot, then dip in more tap water.

Anyone try using Hydrogen Peroxide instead of tap water?

I mean, if the object is to oxidize then why not use a quenching medium which carries more oxygen?
 
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BJ43

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Anyone try using Hydrogen Peroxide instead of tap water?

I mean, if the object is to oxidize then why not use a quenching medium which carries more oxygen?

Oxidizing may be a misnomer, it seems to be a buildup of minerals from the tap water that isolates the wick from the coil. Distilled water doesn't seem to work and if it was from the oxygen it would work.
 

MaxUT

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So 'mineralization' might be a more accurate term for the coating process.

Someone with access to a ceramics shop should try painting the outside of the mesh with a very thin coating of glaze, then fire it in a kiln. Don't know if the mesh would survive the heat but a ceramic coating that insulated the wire without filling the mesh openings would work great.
 

chieftechnicalwizard

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Hmm, didn't go trough the whole thread, but if I got it right it is about moding the A2 to SS wick ...

Still, in the beginning there is a mention of an idea of a SS carto. Did anyone manage to pull that trough?

Think a carto with a SS mesh tube and SS wool filing might be a interesting piece of gear ...

Me too! Might not have enough planned obsolescence to be produced. The smell off wood burning is my brain rewiring and turning /:)

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
 
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