I think cotton is my winnerbut SS > silica for me, so far anyway
Cyrus, explain the cotton theory please? Sounds interesting...
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Cyrus, explain the cotton theory please? Sounds interesting...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html
you're cordially invited kind sir, please come visit
I've been using 100% cotton yarn (started with sterile medical gauze, braided by yours truly) and its unbelievably effective, doesn't burn, and pure in flavor. 2.99 from Michael's (craft store) in the U.S.
The thread raises possible health concerns, which for me aren't really concerns, but the moral of the story is I think cotton yarn just works better. I also have bamboo on hand (also 2 dolalrs, same source) but haven't used it yet. A few people are swearing by the wicking action of cotton/bamboo in the thread, so its worth a look.
you're cordially invited kind sir, please come visit
I've been using 100% cotton yarn (started with sterile medical gauze, braided by yours truly) and its unbelievably effective, doesn't burn, and pure in flavor. 2.99 from Michael's (craft store) in the U.S.
The thread raises possible health concerns, which for me aren't really concerns, but the moral of the story is I think cotton yarn just works better. I also have bamboo on hand (also 2 dolalrs, same source) but haven't used it yet. A few people are swearing by the wicking action of cotton/bamboo in the thread, so its worth a look.
From the referenced thread:
Thanks for pointing that out ... don't know how I missed such a thing. I subscribed to this thread originally a sort of "enthusiast" thing (possible performance enhancements) and haven't read up yet. I had no idea about this.
MORE reading to do ... again!
EvilGrym said:
Thanks for pointing that out ... don't know how I missed such a thing. I subscribed to this thread originally a sort of "enthusiast" thing (possible performance enhancements) and haven't read up yet. I had no idea about this.
MORE reading to do ... again!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modding-forum/284030-wick-materials-safe-vs-dangerous.html
you're cordially invited kind sir, please come visit
I've been using 100% cotton yarn (started with sterile medical gauze, braided by yours truly) and its unbelievably effective, doesn't burn, and pure in flavor. 2.99 from Michael's (craft store) in the U.S.
The thread raises possible health concerns, which for me aren't really concerns, but the moral of the story is I think cotton yarn just works better. I also have bamboo on hand (also 2 dolalrs, same source) but haven't used it yet. A few people are swearing by the wicking action of cotton/bamboo in the thread, so its worth a look.
Thanks Cyrus, interesting read I must admit! Will be sure to give it a try.
I'm thinking to use only paper - nothing else. With the tissue paper over the stainless coil not showing significant burn damage it may also be a viable option.... Coming back now...
Pipe Screens for "Bonuts" http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/221377-stainless-steel-doughnuts-dripping.html
SS wool to replace poly in carts
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I received 20 5 packs from E bay this morning (all I could find) for 7.50 (free shipping) so I figured for the cost this was worth trying. I used a small sewing needle pin to roll the screen around it. I then stuck a dental tool in the hole on one of the ends so I could hold it while torching it. Did this 3 times cooling in water after each burn. Boiled it for a few minutes. Rolled another one without doing all the above. Oxidized went in first, then the other (I could only fit two, three would be a smash ). It's a Firefly atty, put on a drip shield, about 8 to 9 drops.
Have taken about 20 decent size draws and is now drying out so this method (for me) is working. It did change the flavor somewhat ( it's almost like a more tobacco type flavor change which I believe is the screen, It must be, but it's not terrible or anything like that). I'll See if this changes at all over time but for now this seems to be working...YMMV
). It's a Firefly atty, put on a drip shield, about 8 to 9 drops. Have taken about 20 decent size draws and is now drying out so this method (for me) is working. It did change the flavor somewhat ( it's almost like a more tobacco type flavor change which I believe is the screen, It must be, but it's not terrible or anything like that). I'll See if this changes at all over time but for now this seems to be working...YMMV
Sorry if this has been covered but how does one clean and re-use a ss wick?
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ISO alcohol works best for me... just wash with water after and burn again
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omfg I love this thread, have I a lot I want to ask, but after reading through all 26 pages I need a nap. LOL be back in the morning.
I am not Newton but this is my educated opinion, BJ's law
I have found when the tank is underneath and juice has to rise the best is 400 mesh, PG or VG, the juice has to rise by capillary action and the smaller the air spaces in the mesh the better it wicks, I only use 100% VG and have no problem with 400 mesh and hardly no wicking with 325 when the fluid has to rise, Most of the successful use of 325 over 400 is in attys with the tank above and fed by gravity and on these the larger spaces let it flow more juice down. This is not capillary action (wicking), it is flow by gravity. Wicking (capillary action) is a liquid rising against gravity.
It is a very easy lab experiment. Roll 3 in long wicks from different mesh #, put them in a small jar with 2 inches of vg and leave them over night. The next day you can see that the only one the juice has risen is the 400. 500 is even better if you can find it. Basic law of capillary action is, the smaller the hole, the higher the liquid rises. Doesn't matter if it is PG or VG.
After testing many wick sizes in my line type attys, IMO the more mesh you can roll as tight as you can of SS 400 mesh the better.
I started out with loose 25mm of mesh for a 2.5mm dia wick, then went to 35mm, then 45mm and now use 60mm very tight roll with a very small center hole for a 2.5mm dia. Seems that wicks are like the golf swing, every thing is opposite to what you would think.
Now if you want liquid to flow down, the bigger the holes in the mesh (325, 200) the bigger the flow (not capillary action) and the harder to control. Hard to put a valve on gravity and gravity causes different flow depending on the height of the liquid (another law of physics/hydraulics). So your flow is greater when the overhead tank is full and diminishes as it empties.
I have found when the tank is underneath and juice has to rise the best is 400 mesh, PG or VG, the juice has to rise by capillary action and the smaller the air spaces in the mesh the better it wicks, I only use 100% VG and have no problem with 400 mesh and hardly no wicking with 325 when the fluid has to rise, Most of the successful use of 325 over 400 is in attys with the tank above and fed by gravity and on these the larger spaces let it flow more juice down. This is not capillary action (wicking), it is flow by gravity. Wicking (capillary action) is a liquid rising against gravity.
It is a very easy lab experiment. Roll 3 in long wicks from different mesh #, put them in a small jar with 2 inches of vg and leave them over night. The next day you can see that the only one the juice has risen is the 400. 500 is even better if you can find it. Basic law of capillary action is, the smaller the hole, the higher the liquid rises. Doesn't matter if it is PG or VG.
After testing many wick sizes in my line type attys, IMO the more mesh you can roll as tight as you can of SS 400 mesh the better.
I started out with loose 25mm of mesh for a 2.5mm dia wick, then went to 35mm, then 45mm and now use 60mm very tight roll with a very small center hole for a 2.5mm dia. Seems that wicks are like the golf swing, every thing is opposite to what you would think.
Now if you want liquid to flow down, the bigger the holes in the mesh (325, 200) the bigger the flow (not capillary action) and the harder to control. Hard to put a valve on gravity and gravity causes different flow depending on the height of the liquid (another law of physics/hydraulics). So your flow is greater when the overhead tank is full and diminishes as it empties.
Cohesion forces between PG,VG or whatever in beteen also plays a role in anti gravity direction....
comparing oranges to orange
PG will rise higher in a 400 mesh than on a 325 mesh.
Vg will rise higher in a 400 mesh than on a 325 mesh.
On the same 400 wick PG will rise higher than VG because of cohesion forces as 13oertjie pointed out.
In my limited experience I've had the baffling experience (baffling because at least on paper I think BJ is dead on) of not being able to notice much of a difference in wicking speed on the top coil set ups between 170, 270, 325 and 400, *once they're broken in.*
I still don't believe it though, because I feel that what BJ says should be right, thus I'm still playing
The one thing I do believe is that thinned VG wicks better, and tastes better IMO, so there's really no reason not to thin, especially if you use totally unflavored VG nic all the time (talk about THICK)
The 5% BJ Cigar Booze cuts into it like a knife
I still don't believe it though, because I feel that what BJ says should be right, thus I'm still playing
The one thing I do believe is that thinned VG wicks better, and tastes better IMO, so there's really no reason not to thin, especially if you use totally unflavored VG nic all the time (talk about THICK)
The 5% BJ Cigar Booze cuts into it like a knife
I agree with you, there is a third issue on all our wicks, in actual use, we change the position and even go to horizontal when we vape, we even turn them upside down, so we actually use a combination of capillary action (wicking) and gravitational flow. My layman's scientific explanation was taking in account that the wick was always vertical and in that case anything 325 or larger did not wick even using kerosine in mini lamps with SS wicks and kerosine is thinner than PG.In my limited experience I've had the baffling experience (baffling because at least on paper I think BJ is dead on) of not being able to notice much of a difference in wicking speed on the top coil set ups between 170, 270, 325 and 400, *once they're broken in.*
I still don't believe it though, because I feel that what BJ says should be right, thus I'm still playing
The one thing I do believe is that thinned VG wicks better, and tastes better IMO, so there's really no reason not to thin, especially if you use totally unflavored VG nic all the time (talk about THICK)
The 5% BJ Cigar Booze cuts into it like a knife
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