[CLOSED]

[renderwerks]

Well, been busy designing at my 3D Workstation- decided to design a few box mods.

Almost the most fun design job in 23 years as a Senior Mechanical Designer - the Jurassic Park II Mobile Command Center was first! Used to be a designer for Fleetwood way, way back. I was lucky enough to be in the right place at the right time.

The first mod

Stainless Steel Faceplate & Buttons shown.

View of the PV "chopped" in half, exposing the inner structures.

Modeled in a single block of Oak for the moment. All USA parts, US designed and manufactured.

I have partnered with a good friend of mine who was an electronics tech in the Coast Guard. His specialty was circuit board and micro-electronics soldering - perfect for this purpose.

The parts used include the Evolv DNA75 chipset with temp control & much more, a Fat Daddy's 510 Woody connector and a Keystone battery sled.

Part of the design includes a handful of 3D Printed parts including the chipset mount/button pusher; the battery sled holder & the Faceplate.

So far, I've created three different Faceplates. A flat, featureless basic Face; a flat version "Ohm" Faceplate (shown above), and a Faceplate with a contoured surface that provides a buildup around the buttons to prevent accidental firing:

The Faceplates (and buttons) will be available in Plastic, Stainless Steel & Brass (shown above). The brass is pricey comparatively speaking. 4x the cost of SS.

This MOD is the first design - a single 18650 DNA75 made as reasonably small as possible:
1-1/4"w x 1-5/8"d x 4-3/8"h. The battery access door is on the edge opposite the Faceplate, slides open and closed, and uses magnets to hold the closed position.

I have an animation of the complete PV coming apart & it shows the door sliding out. For whatever reason, I can't post it - I get an oversized graphic saying something about a capcha, but can't seem to get past it. It's on Flickr here.

An raytraced frame from the animation:

The doors are cut from the block early in the production process, so they will match the grain when in place. Three different versions of the bodies will be produced - single species solid block; multi-layered, multi species laminated blocks (like our vape stands); and stabilized wood/resin blocks similar to:

This is from one of my favorite sellers on FleaBay.

As said, this single 18650 version is the first design. A very similar dual 18650 version with the sliding door on the side is currently on the drawing board. A third, Side by Side style is also in my head and waiting to be designed after the dual battery MOD is designed next.

Also considering looking into 26650 possibilities too. Well, whatever I can finalize designs on and have available for order by August 8th...

I still have to order some 3D printed parts to test out sizing and looks before we can build the initial test units. Need to test machining methods and work out proper order of operations, etc...

The protos will actually be two DNA40's from dis-assembled new PV's (bought for this) and one with a new DNA75 chipset. Probably one in Oak or Padauk with a plastic faceplate, multi lamination version, and I have a pretty cool purple, blue, slate and orange piece of stabilized maple burl I will probably utilize for one of them.

Pricing has not been determined yet, but should start out under $200, possibly less - for a DNA75 MOD that is 100% US made, parts and labor

I've even been playing around modeling some custom fire buttons, too...

More updates as they happen-

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hey all,

Man, it's been a week already. My partner Jim is having some availability issues because of his job - he unexpectedly left for over a week and couldn't say anything... and is leaving this week to Tennessee for several days - that's all I know . Sorry for this, but we're still having some issues with vendors, and I'm looking into a new vendor to Cerakote the Faceplates and other exposed metals.

I want to share some pics of a shipment of 3D Printed parts. Several came in for the Squonk proto. I'm actually waiting on a special cutter to bore the 29mm holes for the 26650 battery tubes. Whoo hoo! Mail just came, and the cutter was there! Nice...

First though, here are a couple pics of the aluminum faceplates that are available, right now in machined:

Anodized Black:

Also available in brushed finish (not shown).

The 3D Printed SS is a very unusual alloy - it's roughly 60% SS, and 40% Bronze. The model is printed as a stainless "sponge" that has about 40% air space. It is then placed in a mold and hot molten bronze is poured in. This takes up all the air space with bronze, and makes the model solid. The amount of bronze at the surface varies somewhat each time:

The prints have a sandy, pebbled surface as printed. If coated, it has a very tactile surface that feels like "smoothed sandpaper":


It can also be given a brushed finish after printing:

This is the upper plate from the pic above of the two faceplates.

Here we have the first test print of the squonk bottle topseal that is attached to the underside of the 510 connector. I placed fake "o-rings" in the model for planning purposes and forgot to turn them off before printing! Where you see what appear to be o-rings will be grooves for o-ring(s) instead:


Also received a print of the flexible bottle holder:


It's very flexible, but firm. The bottle fits tightly in it. Seems a go! Speaking of the squonk bottle, here it is:

Holds 10ml, made from very flexible LDPE.

Here's a view looking at the bottom of the Mod III Squonker. You can see the X shaped bottom support in the body. This piece is epoxied in place, and strengthens the body and accepts the bottom plate (in black).

You may notice the Bottom Plate has a hole in it for a machine screw, and the X brace does not. This way we can custom drill each hole location by putting the bottom in place temporarily - assures a perfect fit with each Mod. The Bottom Plate has a little extra material for trimming to fit up against the tubes nicely.


And here's a look at the real parts:

Above is the side of the support that faces out. Forgot to remove the hole before printing - no problem, that what metal filled epoxy is for!

Above we see a view of the bottom side; notice the reinforcing ribs and the buildup around where the support will be threaded to accept the bottom.

Here we have the bottom of the Mod.

One last thing - I got a print of the Skull Faceplate in black plastic, and the skull fire button in black SS:

Some of the details are too small to render properly - the text around the control buttons is too small and will not print correctly - it will be removed.

There is a new, higher definition plastic material that I am going to try a few sample prints to see how that looks.

Finally, I wanted to let everyone know that I was just asked to bid on a large juice bar holder for a vape shop chain. The holders are large and hold 150 taste tester tanks. The job is for a dozen stands. If I get the job, it's going to dominate my production for 6-8 weeks. I'll keep working away at the Mod's, but I seem to be getting several holder jobs lately... when it rains, it pours, LOL

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Here's a quick animated gif of the 2x 18650 MOD - this time in a laminated body-

The design is 99% complete, and there are two new 3D printed parts to be test run. Size of the MOD is 1-1/4" x 2-1/2" x 4-1/2". It could be wired in parallel (3.7v) or could use a DNA200 (running @ 133w) if wired in series.

The computer is currently working on an animation of it showing all the parts "exploding" apart. Should have that in a few hours... hopefully

I'm working on a wood Side by Side with a partially enclosed tank area. Looking pretty cool so far - I'll try and get some early pics of just the body soon.

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hey everyone,

Been busy designing again -

This 18650 device will be christened the Model IV or MOD IV. The MOD III is still "on the drawing board", but imagine this MOD with a larger diameter on one end for a 26650 battery and the same sized diameter as this one on the tank end, a bit of a wedge shape. More to come...

Modeled in "Oak" for the moment, but will probably be produced in stab wood or laminated exotic species (actually, whatever you want). It features a Side by Side design; 18650 SS Fat Daddy's battery tube; shorter side mounted faceplate with display and control buttons; top mounted 16mm Bulgari fire button (looking for a US button of same quality). Dims are 2-3/4"w x 4"h x 1-1/4" thick. Stainless steel bottom that will be embossed with the serial number, and can even have your name or other text embossed in it at no additional charge.

There are a few new 3D printed parts I am prepping, and will prepare an exploded animation of this device as well.

In other news, I've almost finished machining a Walnut body for our MOD I device, and have prepped an awesome Caribbean Rosewood & African Wenge laminated block to be the body of our MOD II design. I'm still waiting on a shipment of 3D printed parts to begin assembling our first two designs!

When we've prepped the website for sales, there will be a configurator that will allow you to select several options with all the mods. Wood choices, SS, Brass or plastic hardware such as faceplates, buttons and connectors. Every MOD will be hand made for each customer, and carry a six month warranty.

Thanks,

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Nice work! What are software are you using to model and render?

Thanks - It's Autodesk Inventor 2017, borrowed from my son in college. I used Inventor & AutoCAD mainly when I was working. Some 3D Studio work as well.

I have the body for the first physical prototype ready for the final finishing step - then we can assemble it and I can get you guys some pics of the first real thing.

It's a Model I, the smallest single 18650 we make. Not in the model is the thumb well. The door fits so nicely, I had to "tap" or "pack" the MOD like a pack of cigs to get it to slide down (remember doing that?). It slides easier now. Magnetic door holder (not shown).

Rick

 

[BobC]

Varitube has the Drunk_J model

 

[renderwerks]

OK- Decided to go with the VariTube VT510 as I would think the VariTube name would be more widely recognized. Surprise - vapemail from VariTube just showed up with the connectors in it!

Unfortunately, I can't go back and edit the earlier post - not sure why editing your own post has been set to such a short time. I'm on another forum that uses the same software. Your threads and posts just remain editable...

Just for S&G's - here's a quick drawing that will be used for assembly:

It's for the standard Faceplate assembly used in most the Mods.

Hope to have some more news soon!

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hey Everybody-

Got the body of the first proto clear coated, and handed it over to Jim for electrical & assembly. Here's a pic of the body and door before clear coat:

MOD I WALNUT-001

Machining for the second Proto, a Model II in Caribbean Rosewood & Wenge:

Cutting the body cavity - you can see the cutter is cutting through the Wenge, leaving Rosewood under and to the left of the bit. It almost hurts to turn so much Rosewood into wood chips...

The purpose of prototypes are to see and learn from what you forgot, missed, screwed up on, etc... I learned I need to cut the full door detail on the body before I cut the body cavity out. When clamping the body after the cavity is there, the top edges actually bend over somewhat unevenly and caused the match between the door and the opening to gap at the top of the door - lesson learned. Same with the door, it's only 1/4" thick and can't be clamped too tightly or it bows up in the center causing issues trying to make it flat and of even thickness across.

The set, ready to be sanded-

MOD II PROTO MACHINED

Going to work on one more MOD to try and get on the website before Monday. Probably won't make it - but that just means I can't sell it online, I can still make it (ya know, for ME...) Going to be a single 18650 with a battery tube, and more curved and shapely than the boxes or the Side by Sides - trying to get it as small as possible. Sure I'll have pics at some point...

Cheers,

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

For our Second Amendment Fans, the "Skull" Faceplate
SKULL FACEPLATE DNA75 ASSY
Still need to order plastic first run parts to check fit, finish and resolution (3D Printed).

Not much luck working in the shop the last few days - H O T - 106 today, 104 yesterday...

Ready to clear coat the Rosewood Mod II Proto. Hope to take it with me on Wednesday when Jim & I will assemble the first proto - a Mod I. Might get started on the second one too.

More news and pics as they happen!

Rick

 

[B2L]

If you use FD V4v pins everyone's gonna send em back to fix leaking

FDV doesn't understand squonking, no modder worth their salt uses them

True dat.

A FD Classic with a modified screw or better yet one of pdib or Drunk_Js new BF purpose built connectors will be much better suited.

 

[Nautilusfan]

BobC can be a little blunt but for those of us that know him it's part of his charm
B2L and Bob both have very valid points...abandon the FD bf idea immediately!! They are crap and will give you nothing but headaches. As mentioned the VT510 (Drunk J)from Varitube or the one from Pdib are both excellent choices. Both of these modders have been doing it for a while now and have found out what works and what doesn't.

 

[renderwerks]

Any plans for a mechanical version of the bottom fed device? There are some people out here that don't care for a regulated device...

Yes! All the devices are available as a FET protected mechanical. Options include volt meters and the v2 MODmeter as well. Also Big Al's PWM power is available. A blank faceplate can be used to mount pots, meters and the like. Also can be done without the faceplate - I think...

I often have 90% of a design in my head, and need to put it to paper mainly to figure the tiny details.

I also have boxes of sketches that can technically serve as completed designs - take that, FDA (Frickin' Dumb Aszes)

Thanks,

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hello! I found my way out from under the piles of wood chips... Sorry for the absence; wood to molest, and vendors to grind...

My last post I was excited that a drill bit for the battery tubes had arrived and I could get going again on the Squonk Proto. When peeling the plastic off the cutter, it looked horrible - discolored like it was sharpened and got way too hot, had a small chip, and not accurately made.

This is a German made bit, the manufacturer is well known for high quality. Not what I expected when paying almost $70 for a single drill bit... It's on it's way back for a replacement now.

I mentioned my partner Jim was swept away by his work to Tennessee somewhere - still gone, 10 days later. I know he doesn't have much choice when ordered somewhere. Spoke with his wife and she says he should wrap up in a few more days if "things don't get out of control". Can't wait for the story...

I'm still waiting on some new SS 3D printed Faceplates to send off for Cerakote test. Also in the same shipment is a new print of the Skull Faceplate pieces in a new, high definition black plastic.

I've really been busy in the shop with other projects. Thought I'd share the process of filling small anomalies in wood with epoxy. This is often done with figured wood and dyed stabilized wood. My instance is with some beautiful highly figured American Black Walnut. I'm saving some of this unique wood for Mod bodies in the future.

Often, the center of small knots are soft and crumbly. These need to be made solid, and have to look good when done if exposed. A dentist pick works great to tediously clean out all the loose material:

If the void goes all the way through the board, the other side gets the same treatment, then the bottom side is covered with tape to close the hole.

I gather together the clear epoxy, pigment (black this time), a small container and some toothpicks:


Mixing a small batch, I first coat the inside of the hole by dipping a toothpick and "painting" the inside of the hole. Then I carefully pour so it runs down one side of the crack. This lets it run to the bottom and fill from the bottom up.


Letting the epoxy "brim" on the crack a little bit, I use the toothpick to coax the epoxy into all the legs of the crack.


Let it dry undisturbed for at least two full days. It gets dull looking when sanding, but regains it's glossy look when finished.

Here's the finished repair. It will be sanded down flush during the assembly process. You can see a couple really small spots that also need repair.

I'm itchin' to get back on the Proto's. I'll post another update when I have some new goodies to photograph!

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hey -

Finished up a few custom stands, and quickly cut a blank to the shape of the wider Mod III & IV:

Please excuse the video format - last time I shoot iPhone video in portrait orientation Time lapse, about a minute, 15 seconds.

After, I ran it through the tablesaw to put the other angle on it. Just a little sanding after that.


Here, next to the wider design (still shown on the website - need to fix that)


Machining to this level is good to see how it would feel to hold it -


The thumb in the above pic is resting where the fire button would be if it were on the faceplate - we can still place it near the top, vertically like in the drawing a post or two up in the thread. It could even go on the other side.

I'll continue to machine this as the squonk proto and post when I have stuff to show -

I have a couple large display stands I need to get finished as well - figured Walnut; should be awesome, I'll post pics.

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hey everyone -

I just wanted to wish everyone a safe and happy holiday & New Year -

Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah from Chell & I to all of our vape family!

Hope everyone has a great year end - and I'll see you right after the first of the year!​

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Hey Everyone -

So much for assembly going smoothly enough to have made this post by "next weekend". The Model V is designed so it can be taken apart - albeit difficult - for repair or RMA of parts. Thirteen days later, it's finally in the mail.

For this customer, I reduced the size of this Mod slightly to make it more friendly to smaller hands. The space was so tight that the rubbery cement used to attach the Faceplate would allow it to push away from it's recess because of increased tension from the wiring because of the reduced space behind the Faceplate. So it had to come apart to try and get a little stronger adhesion by adding some epoxy at the corners of the Faceplate. It worked, but the body might be damaged if we ever have to take it apart again. Oh well, do what you have to - a new body might have to go with any removal of the Faceplate.

But that wasn't the end of it - after reassembly, I put a battery in to test it again, and when turned on, the watt setting immediately began to drop as if the down control button was being pushed. The Faceplate button looked fine, but would not "click" when pushed and I couldn't stop the behavior. Great, it needs to be opened up again... I wrapped a screwdriver with a little piece of leather to protect the polished brass and took the bottom plate off (rubbery attachment still works there). It was the positive wire from the battery pushing up just the corner of the DNA board and depressing the down button on the board. I moved the wire as much as possible and placed a small epoxy "bridge" between the body and board to hold it in place. After putting it back together, everything worked as designed when tested again. Finally!

Without further adieu -



And, a few images made with "the good stuff", Canon DSLR, L series lens, Strobes & Umbrellas - enjoy

And, there you have it! I'm quite proud of it - awesome materials make an awesome looking Mod. For those wondering - The Mod V is $259 base price. The stabwood block was $74, and the cast polished brass option is $179. The standard is an Oak or Walnut body, and black plastic parts instead of brass. Other materials like stainless are available at a lesser cost than brass.

I'll add more Mod news occasionally as I work on the next five that are on the production schedule - well, four plus another customer trying to decide what options to get! Check the home page of our website for more places to learn about our Mods.

A couple interesting notes:

I might have a Mod coming up that will have Damascus Steel - at least a Faceplate! I'm going to attempt a couple drip tips first.

I will be designing a DNA Mod to look similar to the Augvape Gragas - that should be kewl -


Give someone a thumbs up and a smile today, it'll improve their face value, and yours -

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Here's the animation of the 2 x 18650 device - the Model II

 

[renderwerks]

Here's a quick video (2-1/2 min) of the items making up a Faceplate assembly being put together in the computer, this is for the Side by Side designs -

If you're at work - watch your sound, there's music

Enjoy,

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

I am diggin these.

Will the squonker have the RDA inset or cage thing on the III and IV models?

On the Model IV can it be made without the scalloped cutout under the button?

And of course finally, what time frames are on these?

Thanks-

Yes, the design will look essentially the same with added bottle hole(s). Of course, the connector changes.

No problem with deleting the exposed battery tube. I need to add a pulldown to choose this option.

As far as a time frame, we are working on the first two proto's now, a Mod I & II. I expect those to be operational in the next week or two.

I'll start on the III & IV next, and can make one as a squonker - it's a good idea anyway, thanks. So, expect to see posts starting about the Side by Side proto(s) in the next 10 days or so. May only make the one - both are very similar. Could start a V or VI at the same time...

Rick

 

[renderwerks]

Well... Crap -

Short story is my soldering partner, Jim, hurt his hand and arm at work Tuesday. A little beat up, a little bloody... Jim is a previous SWAT & K9 cop - "retired" but works in a more covert vein of enforcement now. Talked to him today, and he seems to be "back".

So, no assembly party - I'm bummed. I'll have a second body ready for assembly when we get together on Wednesday.

I'm going to start on the third proto body in the next few days, a Mod IV 26650 Squonker. I'm ordering some 3D printed parts to test fit, and should be moving forward shortly with it.

I did a little editing to the Box Mod's page - added some renderings of the different faceplate styles available. Plus the "b" version of the Skull Faceplate:


"Come and Take Them" seems appropriate for our situation. The text around the control buttons is different too:


I'm waiting on samples now to see if the resolution is good enough to render the text around the control buttons - hope so. If not, may get it without the text and see about having a jeweler engrave it.

I have a US maker of aluminum faceplates and SS buttons, and I have a couple samples. I'll get them photographed and placed on the Mod page shortly.

Rick