Best mech for sub ohm builds?
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That's like saying I don't like mods with a solid 1-piece tube, because they lack the threading of a 2-piece mod.
When it comes to mech mods and voltage drop, less is more, my friend.
Easiest way to short a smpl mod is to use a counterfeit RDA or over tighten the RDA denting your battery. I know because I've done both. Most authentic RDA's have protruding center posts or adjustable witch don't usually back out or screw in without the use of a tool. I have a few counterfeit RDA's with flush or recessed center pins and a few adjustable that can spin easily.
There's no need for insulation the way it's machined.
What's the benefit from having a screw off top?
I don't want to sound like a fan boy but the smpl has been the most reliable, easiest to use mod I've ever used. I have two mods that were more money and they do look pretty in their box. I don't use them at all anymore.
There's no need for insulation the way it's machined.
What's the benefit from having a screw off top?
I don't want to sound like a fan boy but the smpl has been the most reliable, easiest to use mod I've ever used. I have two mods that were more money and they do look pretty in their box. I don't use them at all anymore.
I agree with your points on the SMPL but that's a sweeping generalization that has no merit whatsoever. I have nothing but clone RDA's and RTA's that have solid protruding pins that have never shorted.
Gotta quote this because it's true. I've got over three dozen clone RDA's and not a single one of them has ever shorted across the 510 connection.
That's like saying I don't like mods with a solid 1-piece tube, because they lack the threading of a 2-piece mod.
When it comes to mech mods and voltage drop, less is more, my friend.
If you want to go the less is more route, then go with a true hybrid.
Not a cheap and dirty solution that can lend itself to shorts with the unwary.
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Any atty with a flush pin is just as doomed to fail in a hybrid as a SMPL, so once again, you have no merit. If you're that "unwary" you shouldn't be messing with mech mods at all.
I see you don't really understand how any of this works, so I'll stop trying to help. I just hope you'd refrain from stating anymore nonsense as fact.
Edit: sorry, somehow I molded you and nynvolt into the same person. My bad.
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Perhaps I could have worded it differently to be more accurate. In my experience, my counterfeit RDA's are the only ones with flush or recessed positive pins. Also, the only RDA I own which has a very loose adjustable positive pin is also a counterfeit.
I'm not trying to put down counterfeit or cloned RDA's but just pointing out that in my own experience, not something I read on a forum or review but actually experienced, those are the only way I've had any issue with shorting the smpl.
A true hybrid is a mod that is designed with a paired atomizer. One that is actually the top cap, so to speak. I'm not sure why reducing the versatility of a mod is a good thing or how simply having a threaded 510 built into a mod is a "dirty" solution. It's simply a different type of connection and seems far more efficient than a separate disc that needs to be screwed onto a tube as a top. That type of connection is actually a compromise, if a button cannot be accessed except through the top or so the mod can be made shorter.
I figured it must have been something along those lines.
After all, I am talking about a true hybrid atty, not a passthough 510 mod.
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After all, I am talking about a true hybrid atty, not a passthough 510 mod.
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