Than why ask for more money? I don't get your point, I didn't steel anything. You didn't like what u received I gave your money back
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Repairable CE2
- Thread starter BigBulli
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Than why ask for more money? I don't get your point, I didn't steel anything. You didn't like what u received I gave your money back
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I bought from you and sent you several PMs to pay me back you offered assembled rebuildable Ce2 and sent a bunch of trash parts.
YOU GOT YOUR MONEY BACK! And kept all the parts to build ur own repairable ce2 including genuine ce2 wicks and kanthal
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I have never gotten my money back, I have a receipt that I paid you, post the receipt that you paid me back. I had my own wire and all the rest including more than 30 ce2, I didn't need more, I paid $25 for an assembled one.
Like I said before why didn't u file a claim? You would have received a refund.
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Because of a few people like bj43 I will no longer provide any input in this thread. I do have a couple improvements I have come up with which will not be shared. Ex. I was using a different heating element other than a kanthal/nichrome coil on my newest repairable atty.
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Now its my fault? LOL Your the crook not me, I have your address and you had mine you could have sent the money, still have the junk you sent in the plastic bag, be happy to send it back
Did you send loft and ED-209 their money back?
Did you send loft and ED-209 their money back?
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Good, I will mail you stuff back tomorrow and expect my $25 back asap...
I believe loft was out over $100
I believe loft was out over $100
Don't waste the money keep it go to wepay.com and request a refund.
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09-13-2011 Closed Account Purchase at Big Bulli Complete -25.00
$25.00 Payment to Closed Account
September 13th, 2011
Closed Account
Purchase at Big Bulli
You closed the account at we pay and they will no longer take a claim.
$25.00 Payment to Closed Account
September 13th, 2011
Closed Account
Purchase at Big Bulli
You closed the account at we pay and they will no longer take a claim.
Paid $20 plus $5 shipping for an assembled ce2 xl repairable atty, just so I could have a sample before attempting to make others from all the worn out ce2s I had. I received about a $1 worth of junk, even some of the wicks were pre used. The money is not the issue the word honor is. Forget the money.
Back to the topic guys, sorry just had to vent... Long time here on ECF and hate it when these things happen....
Again using my hypodermic tubes as plug in ports, I have a 1.5 ohm fluxomizer going on a V4L diamond and this thing is RIPPING
So I like this repairable CE2 method because its fast and solder free. I've become better at soldering, but I still prefer not to do it if I can avoid it. I've vaped these CE2s hard after this mod and they do hold up, despite the lack of 'definite' electrical connection. And they run like a fog machine, no issues.
1) Make your coil
2) Check your resistance at the point where the coil will 'leave off' the wick, as this is where the coil will make first contact with the plug in ports
3) Slide the coil into 27 gauage hypodermic tubes (I've done this with nichrome 32 and 34 gauge, both slide into 27 gauge tubes. I want to order some 24 gauge and see if I can get the same connection with a tad more stability).
4) Insert into cup
5) take the post contact, and make a curvy shape of your choice, tucking the end up into the heat shrink. I like this shape because it allows me to push the entire tubing/coil up bilaterally for later wick replacement/tube adjustment, and the wick threading step below
6) You may have to tap (gentle hammer) the connector base to get the post to go up into the cup...its tight, and that's the point. In doing so if you force the connector skirt up and over the actual post, no worries, just push it back down snug. Before doing so cut your post contact hypodermic tube to a size that will make for a tight fit between the inner battery connector wall and the silicon plug that sits around the post
7) Check your resistance, and rip a few dry burns to make sure all is in order
8) Thread your wick through (100% cotton yarn! WOOT!)
vape your face off
1) Make your coil
2) Check your resistance at the point where the coil will 'leave off' the wick, as this is where the coil will make first contact with the plug in ports
3) Slide the coil into 27 gauage hypodermic tubes (I've done this with nichrome 32 and 34 gauge, both slide into 27 gauge tubes. I want to order some 24 gauge and see if I can get the same connection with a tad more stability).
4) Insert into cup
5) take the post contact, and make a curvy shape of your choice, tucking the end up into the heat shrink. I like this shape because it allows me to push the entire tubing/coil up bilaterally for later wick replacement/tube adjustment, and the wick threading step below
6) You may have to tap (gentle hammer) the connector base to get the post to go up into the cup...its tight, and that's the point. In doing so if you force the connector skirt up and over the actual post, no worries, just push it back down snug. Before doing so cut your post contact hypodermic tube to a size that will make for a tight fit between the inner battery connector wall and the silicon plug that sits around the post
7) Check your resistance, and rip a few dry burns to make sure all is in order
8) Thread your wick through (100% cotton yarn! WOOT!)
vape your face off
So I like this repairable CE2 method because its fast and solder free. I've become better at soldering, but I still prefer not to do it if I can avoid it. I've vaped these CE2s hard after this mod and they do hold up, despite the lack of 'definite' electrical connection. And they run like a fog machine, no issues.
1) Make your coil
2) Check your resistance at the point where the coil will 'leave off' the wick, as this is where the coil will make first contact with the plug in ports
3) Slide the coil into 27 gauage hypodermic tubes (I've done this with nichrome 32 and 34 gauge, both slide into 27 gauge tubes. I want to order some 24 gauge and see if I can get the same connection with a tad more stability).
4) Insert into cup
5) take the post contact, and make a curvy shape of your choice, tucking the end up into the heat shrink. I like this shape because it allows me to push the entire tubing/coil up bilaterally for later wick replacement/tube adjustment, and the wick threading step below
6) You may have to tap (gentle hammer) the connector base to get the post to go up into the cup...its tight, and that's the point. In doing so if you force the connector skirt up and over the actual post, no worries, just push it back down snug. Before doing so cut your post contact hypodermic tube to a size that will make for a tight fit between the inner battery connector wall and the silicon plug that sits around the post
7) Check your resistance, and rip a few dry burns to make sure all is in order
8) Thread your wick through (100% cotton yarn! WOOT!)
vape your face off
Impressive. How long for you to make one? Is it worth the time?
It takes me about 5-10 minutes. The hard part at first is getting the coil into the tubing, requires a straightened coil and a steady hand. But after you get good at it, its simple. And it holds up as long as you need it to. When you're ready for a new wick or coil, just pull the tubes up, and replace whatever you like. The coil pulls out of the tubes with a little force. Its the closest to a plug and play that I could create with what I have here. Ideally the tubes would be a little bit wider cutting down on the above difficulty and accept some kind of plug/screw which would push the coil in and hold it in place. But honestly I find this simple enough and vapes like dynamite. For me personally soldering and desoldering would take longer than 5 minutes, usually results in globby solder, requires another copper wire to use as a wrap to enable soldering, and then adds another variable to what we're inhaling that is likely not bad, but I don't know of any studies down on tin/silver solder bathing in e juice. And even worse, many lead free solders have copper, etc.
And I'm too impatient to wait for the iron to get hot enough Yes, 60 secs is too much !
And I'm too impatient to wait for the iron to get hot enough
Yes, 60 secs is too much !
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