Tornado RDTA by IJOY features Dual, Quad, and Hex Coils
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Looking forward to starting the test/review of the T-6 next week!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
I couldn't stand it so I took my build apart and found the problem. I got mine working just fine.
I trimmed the cotton so that all 6 ends just barely touch the deck and put it back together. Vaped it because the wicks were all wet, just to try it at 50W. Then I filled it Off-Mod... no leaks, so I put it on the reuleaux DNA200 and cranked it up to 100W. Still playing with it, but I wish I had the optional Airflow Top already. Still tasting a little Kanthal, but it works great.
I trimmed the cotton so that all 6 ends just barely touch the deck and put it back together. Vaped it because the wicks were all wet, just to try it at 50W. Then I filled it Off-Mod... no leaks, so I put it on the reuleaux DNA200 and cranked it up to 100W. Still playing with it, but I wish I had the optional Airflow Top already. Still tasting a little Kanthal, but it works great.
200W on the Reuleaux DNA200 is fine. 300W on the Nasy Box is insane without the Airflow Top, but it works.
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Building the IJOY Tornado RDTA
1. Use coils of 2.5mm ID or smaller
2. Screw the Base into your 510 Building Platform
3. Place the T4 (or T6) Deck into the Base on the 510 Building Platform (Deck will spin freely)
4. Open the Airflow Ring on the Base (this will tighten the Base in the 510 Building Platform)
5. Insert the shaft of a 1/16” Drill Bit inside one of the Base’s Air Slots
8. Remove Drill Bit and Mount Base on 510 of a Device (Deck will spin freely)
9. Trick to Glow Burning the Coils (Be certain that the Drill Bit has been removed!!!)
No Flooding? Vape and Enjoy
1. Use coils of 2.5mm ID or smaller
2. Screw the Base into your 510 Building Platform
3. Place the T4 (or T6) Deck into the Base on the 510 Building Platform (Deck will spin freely)
4. Open the Airflow Ring on the Base (this will tighten the Base in the 510 Building Platform)
5. Insert the shaft of a 1/16” Drill Bit inside one of the Base’s Air Slots
a. Fit the Shaft into the Hole in the Gold Plus Pin (underneath the Deck)
b. Close the Airflow Ring onto the Shaft of the Drill Bit, securing it in place
6. Mounting the Coils (do one tier at a time, starting at the bottom and working up)b. Close the Airflow Ring onto the Shaft of the Drill Bit, securing it in place
a. Mount a coil on one side of the Deck
b. Tighten the Post Terminal Screws and secure the Coil
c. Position the coil as necessary
d. Bend coil legs sharply away from coil (this will help with Positioning the coils & Trimming)
7. Snip all excess coil leg wires and bend coil legs sharply away from coilb. Tighten the Post Terminal Screws and secure the Coil
c. Position the coil as necessary
d. Bend coil legs sharply away from coil (this will help with Positioning the coils & Trimming)
i. If second coil on this tier, loosen the two Post Terminal Screws. Go to Step 6a
ii. If this tier is finished, go to Step 7
ii. If this tier is finished, go to Step 7
8. Remove Drill Bit and Mount Base on 510 of a Device (Deck will spin freely)
9. Trick to Glow Burning the Coils (Be certain that the Drill Bit has been removed!!!)
a. Use a Jeweler’s Screwdriver to press the Deck into the Base and onto the 510 (+)
b. Press Vape Button to start Glow
c. Work with one or two coils at a time, using screwdriver to hold Deck in place
d. Pinch or Brush Coils to attain an even Glow from the middle, out
e. Repeat as necessary
10. Wicking (do one tier at a time, starting at the bottom and working up)b. Press Vape Button to start Glow
c. Work with one or two coils at a time, using screwdriver to hold Deck in place
d. Pinch or Brush Coils to attain an even Glow from the middle, out
e. Repeat as necessary
a. Reinsert the Drill bit in the Base and Deck to secure the Deck
b. Wick both Coils of the tier
c. Fully dampen the wicks with Juice
d. Trim wicking ends so that each end barely touches the Deck. This is done with Deck in-hand.
11. Screw Chimney and Glass onto Base (Check the Wicking Fit)b. Wick both Coils of the tier
c. Fully dampen the wicks with Juice
d. Trim wicking ends so that each end barely touches the Deck. This is done with Deck in-hand.
i. If another tier is left, go to Step 10a
ii. If Wicking is finished, go to Step 11
ii. If Wicking is finished, go to Step 11
a. Fit Deck into Chimney (and Glass) so that Deck Air Holes align in slots Inside the Chimney, securing it in place
b. If any cotton did not fit inside smoothly, remove Chimney and Glass
c. Fan out all wicks that need it and Trim them again (this is done with Deck in-hand)
12. Fill the Tornado Off-Mod (in case of Flooding)b. If any cotton did not fit inside smoothly, remove Chimney and Glass
c. Fan out all wicks that need it and Trim them again (this is done with Deck in-hand)
Remember that each Wick End should barely reach and touch the Deck. I find this trimming process to be easiest with Fully Dampened Wicks. When this is accomplished, the Chimney and Glass will fit on easily (no stuffing).
d. If Wicking and Chimney Fit is finished, then Cotton is seen flush against all 4 Juice Holes. Go to Step 12.a. If there is Flooding, Drain Tank, unscrew the Base, and go to Step 11a
b. If any Wicks are too short, redo them.
b. If any Wicks are too short, redo them.
No Flooding? Vape and Enjoy
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Tried the G2 deck. Honestly, not even going to bother with this RTA.
Free floating deck makes it that much more annoying to build. Wicking needs to be just right or else your juice is going to seep through the adjustable airflow holes. Flavor / Vapor is honestly sub par as compared to other RTAs out there that are easier to build on.
One of the regret purchases I'll have. Back on the shelf.
Free floating deck makes it that much more annoying to build. Wicking needs to be just right or else your juice is going to seep through the adjustable airflow holes. Flavor / Vapor is honestly sub par as compared to other RTAs out there that are easier to build on.
One of the regret purchases I'll have. Back on the shelf.
I've had regret purchases, but this wouldn't be one of them after nailing the build. It does require work and patience to get it right, but that has been detailed now (for the way that I got mine to work). My T6 works flawlessly from 50W to 200W with a DNA200. I'd need the Top Airflow to use the Nasy Box Mod at 300W.
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As mentioned I got the G4 deck working with dual claptons after 1 try, however the vape wasn't for me. I've had better flavor, vapor, battery life using other RTAs that I have.
Only did 1 attempt on the G2 deck. Not worth the time for me. Glad you enjoy it.
Only did 1 attempt on the G2 deck. Not worth the time for me. Glad you enjoy it.
Yes, it is finicky and you have to fiddle with it to get it perfect, but it's great after that. I decided not to give up.
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Got mine in today with the T4 deck. Washed, rinsed, and built. There are 4 x 24 gauge 10 wrap 2.4 mm ID coils Ohming out to .19 setting inside it. I actually found the deck easy to build and wick. The floating deck is a huge bother, though. Not so much for the build, but for the firing. I decided to use a toothpick rather than a hex key or screwdriver to secure the deck in place, so there was less futzing about. Filled and nary a drop wasted or leaked. No flooding thus far. It's just edging onto warm at 100 watts. I could certainly see this tank going to 200 watts with the right build and the secondary airflow (which I do not have).
I DO think that the floating deck is a problem, and I DO wish the fill cap was locked on in some way and did not come off. Other than that, I would call this a win!
I DO think that the floating deck is a problem, and I DO wish the fill cap was locked on in some way and did not come off. Other than that, I would call this a win!
For the first build, I wanted something quick and easy. It's 24 gauge Kanthal A1.
I wrapped the coils, leaving long legs. Then in inserted one on bottom left and one on bottom right. Each time I inserted a coil, I push/pull it through to get it as close the the center as I can. I then tighten the grubs. I repeated the same process for the top two coils. Using the screwdriver on the deck method I was able test and fire the coils. I pinch/strummed until all 4 were glowing inside to out evenly. My 521 tab is a lifesaver, here.
I cut 4 x 2.5 mm strips of OJC. Removing the outer layer, I gently rolled it, and pinch-rolled one end to a point. That point was inserted and drawn through coil. A process repeated on the other 3. Using a small set of scissors, I held the wick down along the base, inserted the scissors, and cut. I used a dental pick to brush the ends out and then to tuck the tails into the juice channels. A drop or two of juice ensured they stayed in place.
Then I reassembled the tank. I shut the sirflow, and filled.
After waiting a short span, I started at 40 watts and increased 10 watts until it was tasty.
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Alrighty, then...
To build the Tornado using the T4 Deck, here are the steps I took...
Set the entire deck onto your build stand. I hope you have a build stand as this would be problematic on a mod. I used my 521 Tab. The deck can be secured by running a shaft of some sort through the airflow slots and through hole in the base of the deck. Since the kex key method mentioned above and by several reviewers causes the ohm meter to read a short, I chose to use a toothpick. Honestly, I initially, lazily, thought to use the shaft of a q-tip since I have q-tips on my desk, but it was too large. This necessitated a long and arduous trip to the kitchen for a toothpick. The wooden toothpick worked nicely. It will not go all the way through, though. I just jammed it in there good and it prevented the deck from spinning about.
Once the deck was secured, I wrapped 4 identical sets of coils. For my first build, I decided to keep it simple and chose 2.4 mm ID 24 gauge Kanthal A1 10 wrap contact. I had thought to torch them in advance, but decided to install and pulse instead. I installed the bottom row of coils first. Slipping both leads through the same tier, I used needle nose pliers to grab the ends and pull them up snug, and then bent them out to the side. I repeated this process on the other side, and then tightened down the grub screws. Making sure that no leads were touching the deck, I laid a screwdriver across the deck and the base to get a reading on the 521 Tab. While the screwdriver was there, and being satisfied with the reading (which was not accurate, but more on that later), I pulsed/strummed/pinched the coils until they were glowing evenly, and positioned where I wanted them (directly in front of the post holes and centered over the airflow.
I then repeated the entire process on the second tier. This time, I moved the coils up slightly and in slightly thinking that it would allow these coils to get a little more air and prevent any kind of contact between the coils below.
Now, all four coils are glowing nicely from the inside out, although it's stressing the 521 Tab to get it there. I cut 4 equal strips of JOC about 3 mm in width. I removed the compressed outer layers and gently rolled them just a bit. Once all four strips of cotton were inserted and even, I folded the cotton down and held it against the side of the deck - this would have been easier if I had removed the deck from the base. I used a small, pointed pair of scissors to trim the cotton exactly at the base of the deck. I repeated this procedure with all 4 sets of wick. After trimming, I used a dental pick to brush out/break up any compacted ends, and then juiced them up a bit and tucked 'em in place. I pulled out the toothpick and screwed on the tanks section.
Remember I said that the reading was not accurate? Using the screwdriver method, I got .27 Ohms. Once assembled, it came out to .196 Ohms. Initially, I was concerned that the coils were touching the sides of the barrel, but repeated tests proved that that was not the case. I think the screwdriver must've added in some resistance. Further, the coil calculator that I used gave me a projected resistance of .19, so all appeared to be right and good.
I pulled the tank from the 521 Tab, closed the airflow, popped the top and filled it to the brim. Once the top was quickly pushed back into position and locked, I opened the airflow and waited for a flood. There was no flood. Nary a drop. Just lots of pretty bubbles as the wicks went to work.
Once I was satisfied that there would be no leaking, I screwed the tank onto my iPV5, and set it to 40 watts. Every couple of pulls, I increased the wattage by 10 until it got warm and saturated. I stopped at 100 watts. Never saw a drop of juice, never got spitback, never heard a gurgle, and never experienced a dry hit.
I vaped through the first tank in a couple hours. Could hardly see from one side of the room to the other at times. Throughout, at 100 watts the entire time, the vape never rose above warm, and the flavor and density of the vape was quite good. When the tank was very close to empty, I closed the airflow, popped the top, and filled it again. This time, I did get a couple drops oozing out of the airflow. A couple pulls to vape off the excess, and a quick wipe with a paper towel, and I was back in business.
Overall, I'd say that this tank is a winner amongst vapers that don't mind fiddling a bit and are wanting clouds and flavor and have a mod capable of pushing it. Those not wanting to muck about with screwdrivers and toothpicks need not apply. Those without a mod capable of up to 150 watts should not apply as I think the juice flow would be too much for a lower ohm build to adequately keep up with a mod that ran up to just 50 watts or so.
The question might me asked "Are you going to get the T6 Deck and the Top Airflow attachment?" Dunno. Although I have mods supposedly capable of firing up to 250 watts, I think that might be a bit overkill. But, then again, I thought 100 watts was insane 6 months ago...
I'll write this up again on my blog and maybe include some pics and a video.
To build the Tornado using the T4 Deck, here are the steps I took...
Set the entire deck onto your build stand. I hope you have a build stand as this would be problematic on a mod. I used my 521 Tab. The deck can be secured by running a shaft of some sort through the airflow slots and through hole in the base of the deck. Since the kex key method mentioned above and by several reviewers causes the ohm meter to read a short, I chose to use a toothpick. Honestly, I initially, lazily, thought to use the shaft of a q-tip since I have q-tips on my desk, but it was too large. This necessitated a long and arduous trip to the kitchen for a toothpick. The wooden toothpick worked nicely. It will not go all the way through, though. I just jammed it in there good and it prevented the deck from spinning about.
Once the deck was secured, I wrapped 4 identical sets of coils. For my first build, I decided to keep it simple and chose 2.4 mm ID 24 gauge Kanthal A1 10 wrap contact. I had thought to torch them in advance, but decided to install and pulse instead. I installed the bottom row of coils first. Slipping both leads through the same tier, I used needle nose pliers to grab the ends and pull them up snug, and then bent them out to the side. I repeated this process on the other side, and then tightened down the grub screws. Making sure that no leads were touching the deck, I laid a screwdriver across the deck and the base to get a reading on the 521 Tab. While the screwdriver was there, and being satisfied with the reading (which was not accurate, but more on that later), I pulsed/strummed/pinched the coils until they were glowing evenly, and positioned where I wanted them (directly in front of the post holes and centered over the airflow.
I then repeated the entire process on the second tier. This time, I moved the coils up slightly and in slightly thinking that it would allow these coils to get a little more air and prevent any kind of contact between the coils below.
Now, all four coils are glowing nicely from the inside out, although it's stressing the 521 Tab to get it there. I cut 4 equal strips of JOC about 3 mm in width. I removed the compressed outer layers and gently rolled them just a bit. Once all four strips of cotton were inserted and even, I folded the cotton down and held it against the side of the deck - this would have been easier if I had removed the deck from the base. I used a small, pointed pair of scissors to trim the cotton exactly at the base of the deck. I repeated this procedure with all 4 sets of wick. After trimming, I used a dental pick to brush out/break up any compacted ends, and then juiced them up a bit and tucked 'em in place. I pulled out the toothpick and screwed on the tanks section.
Remember I said that the reading was not accurate? Using the screwdriver method, I got .27 Ohms. Once assembled, it came out to .196 Ohms. Initially, I was concerned that the coils were touching the sides of the barrel, but repeated tests proved that that was not the case. I think the screwdriver must've added in some resistance. Further, the coil calculator that I used gave me a projected resistance of .19, so all appeared to be right and good.
I pulled the tank from the 521 Tab, closed the airflow, popped the top and filled it to the brim. Once the top was quickly pushed back into position and locked, I opened the airflow and waited for a flood. There was no flood. Nary a drop. Just lots of pretty bubbles as the wicks went to work.
Once I was satisfied that there would be no leaking, I screwed the tank onto my iPV5, and set it to 40 watts. Every couple of pulls, I increased the wattage by 10 until it got warm and saturated. I stopped at 100 watts. Never saw a drop of juice, never got spitback, never heard a gurgle, and never experienced a dry hit.
I vaped through the first tank in a couple hours. Could hardly see from one side of the room to the other at times. Throughout, at 100 watts the entire time, the vape never rose above warm, and the flavor and density of the vape was quite good. When the tank was very close to empty, I closed the airflow, popped the top, and filled it again. This time, I did get a couple drops oozing out of the airflow. A couple pulls to vape off the excess, and a quick wipe with a paper towel, and I was back in business.
Overall, I'd say that this tank is a winner amongst vapers that don't mind fiddling a bit and are wanting clouds and flavor and have a mod capable of pushing it. Those not wanting to muck about with screwdrivers and toothpicks need not apply. Those without a mod capable of up to 150 watts should not apply as I think the juice flow would be too much for a lower ohm build to adequately keep up with a mod that ran up to just 50 watts or so.
The question might me asked "Are you going to get the T6 Deck and the Top Airflow attachment?" Dunno. Although I have mods supposedly capable of firing up to 250 watts, I think that might be a bit overkill. But, then again, I thought 100 watts was insane 6 months ago...
I'll write this up again on my blog and maybe include some pics and a video.
Dude, thank you so very much for this write-up!
I struggled for a whole week to get my quad setup working/wicking correctly
before finding your post.Running 4 twisted 26g ss304, 2.5mm diam, 10 wraps; comes out at .1 ohms exactly.
I am a happy vaper, especially after my airflow top arrived - true top-filling (versus the top/side filling on the original cap) and it rocks so hard!
Looks like my Ephro Billow V2 is gonna spend some time on the shelf...
Coilporn link - https://i.reddituploads.com/82ffae1...536&w=1536&s=12f471162f708fdec8cedc7303673072
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