The Lemo RTA: A Build With Pics

[WeirdWillie]

These last few posts have me scratching my head. It's hard to believe that so many have not achieved to proper symmetry and are willing to settle for mediocracy. Wicking to bandaid a coil that clearly shows signs of non-symmetry is like over spicing an improperly aged cut of meat to mask the underlying undesirable flavor notes.

A properly set tension wound coil wicked with kgd in a lemo will chain vape at 45w with no dry hits or burny taste using 75vg from the top of the tank to the bottom. Bridge wicking and/or having to use cc rayon is not required to achieve it and having to do so is an indicator that there is an underlying problem.

Most of the accomplished veterans here on ecf discovered ages ago that symmetry rules the flavor and vapor density worlds. They never looked back, nor will I. I hope that more peeps would find the magic in symmetry and pass it along. Why settle when it can be stellar?

I'm going to respectfully agree to disagree with you, and substitute your reality with my own.
Yes I can and do make beautiful coils, but I've had beautiful coils that preformed like crap and ugly coils I dreaded replacing because they preformed awesome.
And stand behind my statement of wicking is more important, especially on a RTA.
All my coil has to do is heat evenly, but your wick has to be able to wick at the correct rate to keep up with the coil without flooding.
Questionable wicking will always effect vapor production and flavor.

There's nothing wrong with trying to build perfect coils, but you are deluding yourself if you think it's the key to a perfect vape.
I think it's more OCD and/or bragging thany anything else.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I'm going to respectfully agree to disagree with you, and substitute your reality with my own.
Yes I can and do make beautiful coils, but I've had beautiful coils that preformed like crap and ugly coils I dreaded replacing because they preformed awesome.
And stand behind my statement of wicking is more important, especially on a RTA.
All my coil has to do is heat evenly, but your wick has to be able to wick at the correct rate to keep up with the coil without flooding.
Questionable wicking will always effect vapor production and flavor.

There's nothing wrong with trying to build perfect coils, but you are deluding yourself if you think it's the key to a perfect vape.
I think it's more OCD and/or bragging thany anything else.

Nirvana, still looking for it.

Nobody's claiming perfection here, because there is no such thing.

Just a quick reliable way to get to a consistent one.

Good luck Willie. Enjoy the vape!

That's all I want.

 

[AustinTom]

I've had the full size lemo for about a week, and got the drop in the mail yesterday. I switched to RTA's a week ago because I was spending too much on replacement Kanger coils, and I can't believe the difference. Decided to try building these things. This thread has been very helpful and informative, winding these coils was very easy aftr reading through all of this.

First up the full size with 26ga Kanthal 3mm id 5-6 wraps, 1.1 ohms through the holes, KGD wick. Wow this is so great! So much better than the factory coil.

Next up the drop. I decided to try a dual coil, went with 28ga Kanthal, 2mm id, 6-7 wraps, 0.8 ohms, KGD. This! This has to be the best vape I've ever had (not that much experience, only been vaping for a month or so) Flavor is immense. Airflow is great.

I love my Lemo's! Well worth the money. Perfect vape every time, and no leaking at all.

 

[cigatron]

Nirvana, still looking for it.

Nobody's claiming perfection here, because there is no such thing.

Just a quick reliable way to get to a consistent one.

Good luck Willie. Enjoy the vape!

That's all I want.

Yeah, I'm always seeking after the perfect vape even though I know it's unobtainium. That said, I would never discourage folks from trying. It takes a great coil and great wicking to even have a shot at getter there.

 

[Tomso]

Just my experience, but I find that with smaller Id coil ( I use 28g kanthal ), the vape and flavor is always better, probably due to less cotton, but same juice flow, it's able to get soaked more efficiently . I doubt I will build coil over 2mm Id again.

 

[VaPreis]

I'm going to respectfully agree to disagree with you, and substitute your reality with my own.
Yes I can and do make beautiful coils, but I've had beautiful coils that preformed like crap and ugly coils I dreaded replacing because they preformed awesome.
And stand behind my statement of wicking is more important, especially on a RTA.
All my coil has to do is heat evenly, but your wick has to be able to wick at the correct rate to keep up with the coil without flooding.
Questionable wicking will always effect vapor production and flavor.

There's nothing wrong with trying to build perfect coils, but you are deluding yourself if you think it's the key to a perfect vape.
I think it's more OCD and/or bragging thany anything else.

I'll have to agree with you. If the coil heats evenly, the easy part is done.

(FWIW, I freehand wrap prettier coils then when I've used any type of jig.)

When it comes to tanks especially, adequate wicking is the key to happiness.

 

[loll88]

Thanks guys! Problem solved, turns out to be my wicking... anyway really much love for this lemo!

 

[RandyF]

I swung by my local B&M the other day ... they were having a sale on Kanger Subtanks (20% off, so paid around $37 w/ tax).

I've had enough time with it to make an accurate (albeit very subjective) comparison for anyone on the fence.

Pros of the Subtank (over the Lemo):

1. Ability to work on the build without draining the tank
2. Intuitive airflow control ring with detents
3. Very well built, solid connections, great machining
4. Thick glass tank; thicker than the Lemo
5. No exceedingly sharp edges (I've cut myself a few times on the Lemo edges when I first got them)
6. Flavor is stronger; this is good for some liquids, not good for others
7. Wicking seems to keep up a bit better at higher wattages; I can run the device @ higher wattage w/out hitting DNA40 temp protection
8. Looks; it's kinda "gaudy" looking, with it's size and also with the bright red o-ring accents and polished stainless here and there (it looks OK on my red XPV40, but would look rather ridiculous on most anything else I own).

Pros of the Lemo (over the Subtank):

1. More airflow
2. "Simpler" design ... much easier to break down/clean/repair the base. Unable to disassemble bottom portion of Subtank (or: I haven't figured out a way yet)
3. Much more manageable size, the Subtank is huge (although it fits well on my XPV40 with no overhang)
4. MUCH lighter, the Subtank will make any mod top heavy
5. So far the Lemo is more consistent on flavor and wicking. In some cases, I think the Subtank "over-wicks" providing randomly stronger hits than others. The Subtank may not need the wick "bridging" technique I've been using on the Lemo, I've yet to try the Subtank without bridging the wicks.

Overall they're about dead even for me. In some ways the Lemo shines, in some ways the Subtank shines. I'll more than likely be using the Subtank for weaker juices (I get a lot of barely noticeable, high VG flavors from Zample Box that might taste a bit better in the Subtank). Also, I'm not all that impressed with the airflow on the Subtank, even wide open. There is quite a bit more resistance in the draw, and I'm strictly a direct lung guy. You can still direct lung inhale on it, but there is noticeably more resistance. I hear the airflow in the "mini" version is better, but I prefer the tank capacity of the big boy.

Side Note #1: There is a "dissolving insulator" issue with the Subtank - my Subtank came with the old/original insulators, but Kanger US is sending me some free replacements.

Side Note #2: If using the RBA section on a DNA40 (or any device, for that matter) - tighten the bottom positive pin. Mine was lose from the factory and was causing my resistance to bounce all over the place in temperature control mode on the DNA40.

ALL of this being said ... I'm now also kinda wanting to try the Delta II to see how it compares to these two. Great reviews on that tank so far. Too many options!!!

You should have picked up the ST mini instead, it has more airflow than both the original ST and the Lemo. The build deck on the RBA is also much easier to work than any other standard Kayfun style deck. The RBA section really isn't even needed though, the OCC heads are a snap to rebuild. I went and got a second one the day after I received my first and they are all I have been using. If I want a Lemo draw, I can set it to that, which I do at work so I don't burn through juice so fast. Wide open at 30 watts with the OCC head, this thing will make your juice disappear.....fast.

The 25mm ST may be even with the Lemo as far as pro vs con, but the ST mini is better in every way.

 

[BNEAT]

Just my experience, but I find that with smaller Id coil ( I use 28g kanthal ), the vape and flavor is always better, probably due to less cotton, but same juice flow, it's able to get soaked more efficiently . I doubt I will build coil over 2mm Id again.

Lots of things to consider here, but I'm pretty much the opposite, I'll probably never build another coil under 2.5mm. I'm getting way better flavor and vapor with larger coils, 3mm-3.3mm are working great. I only use the smaller 2.5mm coils for dual coil setups.

(30ish watts, lung hits, and Rayon wick...Rayon is the key)

 

[Frocket]

Man you guys way over think stuff.
Bet you one of my Lemos I can hand wrap and wick a coil kanthal or Ni200 that preforms just as well if not better, without using a coil jig or machine screw.

I find that wicking more so than the coil is what makes or breaks the vape therefore I'm more meticulous about my wicking than how symmetrical my coils are.

Haha ugly coils vape well too

I second that. Build before last, had a perfect coil, without enough wick. Current build, a little too much wick, but better than not enough. I'll get it dialed in next time I open it up.

 

[skyboxer1968]

Lots of things to consider here, but I'm pretty much the opposite, I'll probably never build another coil under 2.5mm. I'm getting way better flavor and vapor with larger coils, 3mm-3.3mm are working great. I only use the smaller 2.5mm coils for dual coil setups.

(30ish watts, lung hits, and Rayon wick...Rayon is the key)

So you're the guy..
The Drop is my first rebuildable so I read this entire thread while my order was headed to me and built a laundry list of things to buy. I bought the smallest amount of cellucotton I could find, which should supply my great grandchildren. I also picked up some anarchist cotton, 5 sheets for about half what I paid for the rayon.
I'm switching back and forth discovering the differences. Rayon gives me a harsher vape but never a dry hit. I get an occasional dry hit with cotton but the vape is softer for me. Both are a good time and I'm having a ball figuring it all out. I just wanted to thank you for your contribution to this thread.

 

[narrdarr]

So you're the guy..
The Drop is my first rebuildable so I read this entire thread while my order was headed to me and built a laundry list of things to buy. I bought the smallest amount of cellucotton I could find, which should supply my great grandchildren. I also picked up some anarchist cotton, 5 sheets for about half what I paid for the rayon.
I'm switching back and forth discovering the differences. Rayon gives me a harsher vape but never a dry hit. I get an occasional dry hit with cotton but the vape is softer for me. Both are a good time and I'm having a ball figuring it all out. I just wanted to thank you for your contribution to this thread.

i too only build 3-4mm ID spaced coils in my lemo and i now use cotton bacon its way better then the pad or balls

 

[Bjorhyn]

I've run into a confusing issue with one of my Lemos.

The bottom 510 section seems to be meeting some resistance when I screw it on.
This is how far I can get it before it gets really tight:


I've tightened the post the airflow ring sits on, my first thought was that it had come unscrewed and was pushing out on the base. Also tightened the 510 all the way in with the same concerns.
I've checked all the threads, there's no obvious cross-threading, debris, or chewed up threads on either portion.
It's not really causing any issues with ohm readings jumping around, but it's bugging my OCD something fierce.

I'm able to screw it on completely, but it takes some force and effort. I worry continuing to do that may damage it a little.
The bottom piece screws on to my other Lemos just fine, and the top piece screws in to the others as well. It's looking like there's something not quite right with how this one fits together.
(Yes, I'm aware I can switch the parts around and call it good, but my curiosity is getting the better of me)

Any ideas?

 

[TheKiwi]

^that happened to me when my cylindrical-ish insulator inside the deck (the center pin slides through it) is flipped the wrong way around


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[Partspro]

^that happened to me when my cylindrical-ish insulator inside the deck (the center pin slides through it) is flipped the wrong way around


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Same thing happened to me!

 

[Bjorhyn]

^that happened to me when my cylindrical-ish insulator inside the deck (the center pin slides through it) is flipped the wrong way around


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Interesting.
I don't believe mine ever had the chance to flip, but I'll check that out! Thanks.

 

[TheKiwi]

Interesting.
I don't believe mine ever had the chance to flip, but I'll check that out! Thanks.

Could've simply been an assembly error.

One side is rounded, the other is flat. I can't remember what the correct orientation is though


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[puffon]

I've run into a confusing issue with one of my Lemos.

The bottom 510 section seems to be meeting some resistance when I screw it on.
This is how far I can get it before it gets really tight:


I've tightened the post the airflow ring sits on, my first thought was that it had come unscrewed and was pushing out on the base. Also tightened the 510 all the way in with the same concerns.
I've checked all the threads, there's no obvious cross-threading, debris, or chewed up threads on either portion.
It's not really causing any issues with ohm readings jumping around, but it's bugging my OCD something fierce.

I'm able to screw it on completely, but it takes some force and effort. I worry continuing to do that may damage it a little.
The bottom piece screws on to my other Lemos just fine, and the top piece screws in to the others as well. It's looking like there's something not quite right with how this one fits together.
(Yes, I'm aware I can switch the parts around and call it good, but my curiosity is getting the better of me)

Any ideas?

For me that's a good thing with Ni200 builds. Means it's getting a solid contact with the pos pin.
I've shimmed mine to get that to happen.

 

[MacTechVpr]

I'll have to agree with you. If the coil heats evenly, the easy part is done.

(FWIW, I freehand wrap prettier coils then when I've used any type of jig.)

When it comes to tanks especially, adequate wicking is the key to happiness.

Your winds are very consistent. Congratulations. It takes practice.

Good luck.

 

[AustinTom]

Just built my second dual coil for the Lemo.



I can't believe how great this is.

Edit: I also can't believe how visible those fingerprints are. I can't see them in person, only the photo.