Thanks, I am kinda aware of that.
It is just I use (normalised) TFR data (as shown on the first tab of this worksheet) for that is what Evolv does.
But apparently the board is happily accepting non-normalised data too
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TC beyond Ni200: Nickel Purity, Dicodes; Ti, SS, Resistherm NiFe30; Coefficient of Resistance
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Thanks, I am kinda aware of that.
It is just I use (normalised) TFR data (as shown on the first tab of this worksheet) for that is what Evolv does.
But apparently the board is happily accepting non-normalised data too
Have you tried in Ni mode, temp set to max, power set as low as necessary?
TL;DR ya big change in R. hows she vape? any funky taste? you have to clean the wire before you use it?
Vapes great with the csv uploaded, without it, the vape is warmer than setting. Well I just use a little shine, everclear, vodka whatever I have on hand before making the coil. Spill a little on a paper towel and run the wire through it while pinching a few times. Then make coil and mount it. Then without wick, put on DNA and fire it at my vape temp so it never actually gets hot enough to glow but it will boil off any remaining skin oils from making and securing the coil. Very little comes off. Then I blow on it while firing for three or four 10s pulses. Then wick, wet, assemble, fill and vape. No funky taste on first puffs. Been doing it this way since DNA40 and Ni200. I have not tried it without cleaning but I'm betting they coat it with something from the factory. Not a lot though as it doesn't feel oily and there is no residue on the spool, packaging or paper towel. But that is true of the Ni200.
Agreed. Please reread what I wrote 2x times until you get it.
Everybody agrees that on a power regulated mod: equal power driving different ohm loads equates to the same amount of energy used.
However I'd likely ether burn a coil out or seriously fry some wick if I were attempting to drive a 1-2ohm build with the same amount of power as I do with subohm builds.
1. P=10W, R=1ohm
2. P=40W, R=0.1ohm
Notice the difference in power levels.
I simply don't drive my 1-2ohm builds with the same amount of power as I do my sub ohm builds. Period. Thats where the power savings comes from. If I want to use thicker wire I'll end up with a lower ohm build than if I stuff more windings of thinner wire in the build. The thicker wire and greater mass requires more power to get up to the temperature set point in a reasonable amount of time and more power to maintain it.
IMHO: On a TC regulated device it is all about surface area and how fast do you need to heat it to the temperature set point.
The point here is that TC vaping on some devices does NOT have to mean great amounts of power driving very low ohm coils. I've heard many complain about the battery life of a single 18650 on a TC mod. I to have experienced cruddy battery life until I started exploring and making builds which could be effectively driven with less power yielding improved battery life.
I have read it twice but still don't get it
It still sounds a bit legacy to me for all the wire options we have now, a naked ohm figure tells nothing to me. In Kanthal, NiCr era it was more informative however still not enough. Now, one can easily build some hideous 1 ohm coil say from low twentiesh ga Ti or SS that probably wouldn't even warm up on 10W.Never mind, I definitely don't want to pick a fight.
Just ignore my posts.
Hello, I am new with this tc thing and I am experimenting with nife52(zivipf48). Is there a preference ohm build range with this wire where tc work the best or I can play with any gauges and ohm builds? Tried builds from 25g 0.15/0.2ohms and 28g 0.4/0.5/0.6ohms on somedrripers,tfv4, vapor giant and rose stumpy. If ohms and gauge dont matter for tc precision I would like to try thinner wire for higer ohms build 1-1.8ohm for my other atomizers that are not subohm type. What do you think? I have cloupor mini+50w tc, evic vtc mini - so far cloupor kicks tc far more better then evic.
A lot of tc mods have a Max ohm and that is norm 1ohm, after that it can kick out of tc
from my experience when i build a .08 and lower tc build, depending on the device, it has some trouble regulating the temp smoothly. i shoot for a .1 and above with nickel, ti and nife48. with ss i try and make a coil as high an ohm possible for tc. @pbanj can elaborate. speaking of pbnj, really like keeblers pbnj crackers.
All my coils appear physically the same no matter what wire I'm using except for maybe Ni200 and that's because it's resistance is so low. I don't use Ni200 anymore.
Anybody here tried higer ohm builds? Well either way going to try to maxout zivipf thinest nife52/48 30gauge to 0.8-0.9 in rose,heron,flash e vapor vs, kayfun... to see what happens. I am not subohm lung style type of guy (more of flavor chaser) but would like to see is there noticable diference with tc mode and wires vs kanthal and vw mode. If main thing with tc is dry hit prevention I ll stick to old ways but would like to think there is something more to tc then just this. So far flavor is still on kanthal style. If someone can put some light on this it would be great!
Only difference I have found is when they are under .1 they seem to pulse instead of give a smooth vape, like atmizr said.
Currently using 430°F on NiFe48 from zivipf (27AWG) on a single coil 2.5 mm x 7
Is it too low for NiFe48?
Is it too low for NiFe48?
No it's not to low .27-.28Ω is a very good spot for a single coil NiFe 52 In TC mode.
I've got a very similar build (same ohm) in a Kayfun light+ 27ga 2mm x 8 wrap claptoned with 36ga kanthal A1 = .28Ω on my DNA40. Flavor is excellent set to 360°F on the DNA 40 = actual 440°F
I interchange this build between my DNA-40 & my King mech. As long as I don't run out of juice on the mech I can't tell the difference in taste or heat between the 2 on this build.
with only Ni mode that might be a push. I had the V1 jump out of TC with Ti and the v2 is essentially the same chip. I would think hard on whether this is a good idea to be honest...
edit: having said that, for Ni and Ti they are bloody brilliant devices. I still use my V1 pretty much every day, indoors and out! Bullet proof (literally - it really was tested!!)
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Ok, received SS430 from Crazywires. Coiled it, it's very nice to work with. Almost no spring to it. Now I'm vaping it and... I don't to jump ahead of myself... but I'm afraid that even the really small amount of nickel contained is annoying my mouth roof... I hope to be mistaken.
I'll try to answer starting from the end.
The potential of TC vaping is much better then just dry hit prevention. Of the other benefits the best in my opinion is the ability to "tune in" to a flavor especially a complex flavor for ex. Cape Fear's Front St. (Flaky blueberry scone, with sweet lemon meringue) At higher temps 450-460°F I can distinguish the different flavors in there, whereas it's kind of a muted week blueberry at lower temps. On a none TC device the best you get is the average combination of a little to hot (middle of coil) + to cool (ends of coil) & it takes a lot of trial and error to get that!
In order to take advantage of this TC Flavor tun-ability it requires optimized wicking (including wicking material), good balance of air flow to coil mass (I.E. you don't want to stuff the most wraps possible in a Kayfun just for the sake of max ohms), good coil placement in relation to airflow, Good ratio of coil width to Inside diameter (my rule is to not exceed 2.5:1), & make sure your build is in the correct range for your device & that range varies widely between devices. Since were talking single coil mouth to lung you don't want to get to much coil mass or you'll just shorten battery life without any benefits.
As for wire size I have come to the conclusion that thinner is better. It's just more difficult to build with. My current favorite builds are all direct lung inhale high surface area builds made with 31ga NiFe 52
Advantages are quick ramp up times at lower power & increased battery life. I just tailor the build design to stay withing the sweet spot of the mod. So if I want more surface area on an RDA without getting to high on the ohm I build a parallel, if that's to wide >2.5:1 then I twist it etc.
There is a tab on Steam engine (Mod Range) to help you determine if you within your mods range to deliver full power.
Hear are a few examples showing how big the resistance range in TC variation is.
Oh and the sweet spot for your Clouper mini is 1.17ohm so a cold resistance of .65 would be a good target for you.
It's interesting that the DNA 200 has the narrowest range, a trade off for all that power I guess. It's also worth noting that although the Dicodes is only 40watt it is apparent that it was not designed around Nickels limitations since the low end of the range is .178 & maintains full power all the way to 3.6ohm It is much more capable of higher ohm/high resistance TC wire builds then the DNA 40.
+1 to this
My guess is that it is sort of Ni200 legacy. IMO, the max ohm limit is derived from the max amperage that the mod can handle w/o melting and/or the max voltage it can produce.
On Kanthal it is generally around 3 ohms. Ni200 has a TFR of ~2.7 @300°C means a hypothetical 1ohm Ni200 coil would go up to 2.7ohm and occasionally higher closing on the absolute ohm limit.
Our setup (wire/connector/atty etc) has its own internal resistance.
This internal resistance works as resistance series with the coil and alters, our cases, decreases the % of the total resistance changes and as a result, limits the temperature sensing capability.
On a DNA200 you can compensate for that if you can accurately measure both of your mod's and the atty's IR. (however you can't add atty IR to the profiles but mod IR only)
I personally try to keep my cold ohms as high as possible even though it is not easy. In my case, w/ 24-26 ga dual coils it means that I keep them above 0.1, no matter what
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