RIP LG HE2

[Fidola13]

I have a married pair of LG HE2s that I’ve been using for about 6-8 months. They’ve always charged and discharged at the same rate without any problems. Both are in excellent condition with no rips or tears in the wraps.

Yesterday I put both in one of my chargers a Nitecore Intellicharger New I4 and one of the batteries didnt register at all. So I took them out and put them in a Efest LUC Blu4 and the same battery still doesn’t register. I tried different bays on both chargers and still nothing.

I have all my batteries labeled so I can differentiate between the batteries.

I thought that odd but I left them to charge to “see what happens”. What happened is the “good” battery charged as usual in a few hours.

There was no change with the “bad” battery or the one that originally didn’t appear to register with either chargers.

I’m an inquisitive type and would like to know the hows and whys a battery would appear to be working fine then just stop working.

Is this something that had been ongoing or a sudden change? And is there something I should be looking for as a regularly inspect my batteries?

Thanks

Sara

 

[HigherStateD]

My only guess is a dirty contact on the cell, but I am almost certain you checked for that. Maybe one of the internal protections popped, but I don't think 20A batteries have the type of protections that could do what you've described.

Sounds like a question for @Mooch

 

[Fidola13]

My only guess is a dirty contact on the cell, but I am almost certain you checked for that. Maybe one of the internal protections popped, but I don't think 20A batteries have the type of protections that could do what you've described.

Sounds like a question for @Mooch

You’re correct I did check and clean off the contacts on it.

 

[Electrodave]

Batteries die. Sometimes after an uneventful but still short life. Perhaps Mooch can offer more insight. I'm sure he has, already, if you can find it.

 

[Mooch]

I have a married pair of LG HE2s that I’ve been using for about 6-8 months. They’ve always charged and discharged at the same rate without any problems. Both are in excellent condition with no rips or tears in the wraps.

Yesterday I put both in one of my chargers a Nitecore Intellicharger New I4 and one of the batteries didnt register at all. So I took them out and put them in a Efest LUC Blu4 and the same battery still doesn’t register. I tried different bays on both chargers and still nothing.

I have all my batteries labeled so I can differentiate between the batteries.

I thought that odd but I left them to charge to “see what happens”. What happened is the “good” battery charged as usual in a few hours.

There was no change with the “bad” battery or the one that originally didn’t appear to register with either chargers.

I’m an inquisitive type and would like to know the hows and whys a battery would appear to be working fine then just stop working.

Is this something that had been ongoing or a sudden change? And is there something I should be looking for as a regularly inspect my batteries?

Thanks

Sara

Do you have any way to read the bad battery’s voltage? That would help a lot in figuring out what might have happened.

All of our round batteries should have a tiny protection device called a CID, Current Interrupt Device, inside that acts as an overpressure safety switch. Like a fuse but for excess pressure and not excess current.

The CID might have tripped, making the battery useless. This can happen from dropping the battery or from extra gas created inside an old battery or a battery that was used very hard.

If it did trip then the battery would be at zero volts. If the battery is at a higher voltage, but still too low to be charged, then something else could have happened.

 

[Fidola13]

Do you have any way to read the bad battery’s voltage? That would help a lot in figuring out what might have happened.

All of our round batteries should have a tiny protection device called a CID, Current Interrupt Device, inside that acts as an overpressure safety switch. Like a fuse but for excess pressure and not excess current.

The CID might have tripped, making the battery useless. This can happen from dropping the battery or from extra gas created inside an old battery or a battery that was used very hard.

If it did trip then the battery would be at zero volts. If the battery is at a higher voltage, but still too low to be charged, then something else could have happened.

I think one of my chargers read the volts. If so I’ll post the information here tomorrow. Thanks Mooch.

 

[sonicbomb]

Sometimes good batteries just go bad

 

[Baditude]

Sometimes good batteries just go bad.

I agree. I've been vaping with 18650 batteries for seven years. Over that time I've had a Samsung 25R, Sony VTC4, and an LG HG2 just die before their time. All were purchased from a reputable supplier (RTD Vapor) so I'm quite sure they were authentic.

I don't misuse or abuse my batteries. I check the wraps diligently for holes or tears, and never charge at over 1 amp charging rate. Some batteries just die prematurely for no obvious reason.

 

[DaveP]

The last two chargers I've purchased have an internal resistance check mode. When IR approaches 100 milliohms it's time to think about replacing the cell, IMO. In Fidola13's case that wouldn't help since the interrupter opened, but it's a good test to judge age and indicate when to replace certain cells. We all wonder why we sometimes get less vape time. Knowing which ones are aging faster is valuable info.

The Opus BT C3100 V2.2 is the best charger of the five I've bought over the years. It ticks all the features I wanted in one box, including a quick internal resistance test and an extended one.