Rayon wick, better flow, flavor, saturation and Nic Hit!
- Thread starter JeremyR
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I don't know anything about alpaca, burning hair just doesn't sound too good though.
Rayon is usable in any wick method external, pack, & through coil. Very easy to work with.
This is what I'll will look like, this is the rayon I pulled out of the bottle. Just a cut off a roll, I'm guessing less than an oz.
Rayon is usable in any wick method external, pack, & through coil. Very easy to work with.
This is what I'll will look like, this is the rayon I pulled out of the bottle. Just a cut off a roll, I'm guessing less than an oz.
Last edited:
Oh just so you guys know I was running ramie for 2 days, trying to give it a chance again, had to take it out yesterday. Couldn't keep up. Was getting dry hits and couldn't push the voltage. Put rayon back in and vaping great.
Oh had to throw this in for bob, you know hemp & ramie is degummed and processed with sulfuric acid, multiple caustic soda baths, & bleach. Not that it matters much.
Oh had to throw this in for bob, you know hemp & ramie is degummed and processed with sulfuric acid, multiple caustic soda baths, & bleach. Not that it matters much.
Last edited:
Thanks for the info, Bob. I have been using the rayon for a day now, and am really liking how it performs across the board. However, I am going to rewick with cotton and wait for my tencel to arrive. While we are all certainly guinea pigs as vapers, that blurb about the processing agents used in the production of rayon is enough to make me not want to use it. The tencel, from what I've gathered, goes through the same process, however is more 'eco-friendly'. That is, the process itself, what remains in the fibers is my concern. The tencel is gonna get a nice boil and dry before I use it, if I use it. Still very interested in the topic and the opinions and experience concerning the usage of these cotton alternatives.
Ahh the chilling effect got you.. You may have been scared away but you'll be back.. Purely because of how it works. No worries man I've been there. We'll see how it goes.
Lyocell is processed non toxic and claims no chemicals. This is to improve manufacturing safety.
Lyocell is processed non toxic and claims no chemicals. This is to improve manufacturing safety.
Last edited:
Hate to burst your bubble but tencil uses the same chemicals. The only reason why it's considered eco friendly is because it's manufactured in a closed loop system. The material safety data sheets I've seen has no more than 3% solvents in final product. Solvents used are organic solvents that are water soluble.
Fun fact, the FDA has a limt of residual solvents in place for our medication and food, such as acetone.
Not sure if I would say the same chemicals are used because the whole basis of lyocell is use of non toxic amine acid solvents in the processing.
The only mentions I've found of this emitting chemicals is the parroting of that bashwar article. Which I believe is an over exagerated claim because no other claim can be found and the claimed chemical evaporates at room temperature. So I guess if you handlers it right out of mfg you may be exposed. A week later I'm guessing no trace of it.
Further research-
Source- http://skemman.is/stream/get/1946/15613/32990/1/BA_-_2013_-_Bethina_Elverdam_Nielsen.pdf
In the TENCEL® production process (which is patented by the Lenzig Group) a non-toxic solvent which belongs to the amine oxide family is used. Close to 100% of the solvent is recovered in this production.60
Pg9 re: traditional rayon - the exposure risk is in manufacturing
"These chemicals do not remain as a residue on the fibers the proof of this is that almost all of the viscose produced can be (and often is) Oeko Tex certified (which certifies that the finished fiber has been tested for any chemicals which may be harmful to a persons health and contains no trace of these chemicals.)
The problem comes in disposing of these process chemicals: the sodium hydroxide *(though not harmful to humans) is nevertheless harmful to the environment if dumped into our rivers as untreated effluent. Same with carbon disulphide and, certainly, sulphuric acid. Oeko Tex certifies only the final product, i.e., the fibres or the fabric. They do not look at the production process, which can be devastating.24"
Re: cotton pg 11
The cotton production uses 16% of the worlds insecticide consumption. This is more than any other single crop. And a lot of these chemicals run into our waterways, harming both humans and the natural environment.
Typical source of cellulose for this process is wood (like oak or birch), but also eucalyptus. Eucalyptus is a preferred source because it grows fast and thick on low-grade land, and is considered more sustainable.
The only mentions I've found of this emitting chemicals is the parroting of that bashwar article. Which I believe is an over exagerated claim because no other claim can be found and the claimed chemical evaporates at room temperature. So I guess if you handlers it right out of mfg you may be exposed. A week later I'm guessing no trace of it.
Further research-
Source- http://skemman.is/stream/get/1946/15613/32990/1/BA_-_2013_-_Bethina_Elverdam_Nielsen.pdf
In the TENCEL® production process (which is patented by the Lenzig Group) a non-toxic solvent which belongs to the amine oxide family is used. Close to 100% of the solvent is recovered in this production.60
Pg9 re: traditional rayon - the exposure risk is in manufacturing
"These chemicals do not remain as a residue on the fibers the proof of this is that almost all of the viscose produced can be (and often is) Oeko Tex certified (which certifies that the finished fiber has been tested for any chemicals which may be harmful to a persons health and contains no trace of these chemicals.)
The problem comes in disposing of these process chemicals: the sodium hydroxide *(though not harmful to humans) is nevertheless harmful to the environment if dumped into our rivers as untreated effluent. Same with carbon disulphide and, certainly, sulphuric acid. Oeko Tex certifies only the final product, i.e., the fibres or the fabric. They do not look at the production process, which can be devastating.24"
Re: cotton pg 11
The cotton production uses 16% of the worlds insecticide consumption. This is more than any other single crop. And a lot of these chemicals run into our waterways, harming both humans and the natural environment.
Typical source of cellulose for this process is wood (like oak or birch), but also eucalyptus. Eucalyptus is a preferred source because it grows fast and thick on low-grade land, and is considered more sustainable.
I ordered 3 oz of tencel from halcyon to test it out. Cost me 11.00 shipped. Probably should have just got the half pound for 17.50.
How's it working out for you?
You are the first person to actually use the lyocell rayon.. (That we know of)
How's it working out for you?
You are the first person to actually use the lyocell rayon.. (That we know of)
Since even $10 would break my bank currently, I'm checking with my older (50+) friends if they use the appropriate brand sleep aid stuff mentioned in the OP. Any other national branded bottles that use rayon instead of cotton would be much appreciated. I figure that the stuff from just 1 bottle will be enough to experiment for dozens of wicks, assuming I'm using as little as I would with cotton although I think it'll be a bit less actually based on what's in this thread.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Yeah, it's sweet. Taste, wick, ease, price, availability, and yes, better vapor production. I even found a cute way to re-wick my Rose because of it's compressability. I tie a thread to the middle of a piece--tight, and pull through my coil while it's still in the cup, and away I go! No noticeable issues. I know that after working in hospitals for 43 years, I've put worse things in my body out of the vending machines than anyone has been able to SUGGEST what might be contaminating this fiber...lol. I'm sold.
From one bottle would last a long time probably 50+ wicks. You would have to test what you find to make sure its rayon. Rayon is a straight cotton looking fiber With no chunks. Silky looking but no shine of plastic. I say that because it's possible that polyester could be used as a bottle filler; but I doubt widely. It's usually cotton or rayon. Collect What you can and start by burn testing it. Compare to a piece of cotton. Should follow a Similar burn pattern. Rayon will leave a very light ash slightly more grey than cotton and will smell like paper burning. Check back if you have questions about what you find.
You can get one oz of rayon or tencel for 5.00 including the shipping.
I'll be playing with the tencel as soon as it gets here. I hope its as good as I think its gonna be.
You can get one oz of rayon or tencel for 5.00 including the shipping.
I'll be playing with the tencel as soon as it gets here. I hope its as good as I think its gonna be.
Last edited:
That's a solid post. That should help put to rest concerns. I can't wait to try it out myself.
I'm assuming that even for tencel, boiling is recommended? I'm not concerned with the chemical residues (seems negligible at this point), just more of the taste and reducing break in period
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Doesn't make a difference in break in period; which is about 10 seconds. Essentially no break in period. Taste is pure either way so for those reasons no you don't have to.
I tried the bottled rayon with-out boiling. Then boiled it to make sure there was no dust on it... Didn't notice a difference at all. Also the water was clean looking. I would rinse or lightly boil it just to ensure there was no other dust settled on it in storage.? Or just for good measure - one more rinse of the product. Only do a piece long enough to fit in the pot. Boil for a little bit... try to remove it in one piece so all the fibers stay straight and together. Dry it flat. It will fluff itself back up when it drys.
I will have an update on the lyocell/tencel after I use it.
I tried the bottled rayon with-out boiling. Then boiled it to make sure there was no dust on it... Didn't notice a difference at all. Also the water was clean looking. I would rinse or lightly boil it just to ensure there was no other dust settled on it in storage.? Or just for good measure - one more rinse of the product. Only do a piece long enough to fit in the pot. Boil for a little bit... try to remove it in one piece so all the fibers stay straight and together. Dry it flat. It will fluff itself back up when it drys.
I will have an update on the lyocell/tencel after I use it.
One other thing.. Rayon tends to work excellent with more wicking outside the coil in the chamber or deck.
Reason being-
With cotton if you have a lot outside the coil. The cotton will soak it up but hold it at the opposite end. It's widely recognized the the cotton will dry at the coil while remaining wet at the ends or outsides. Cotton holds better than it transports the liquid.
With rayon, it transports so efficiently that if you have a 1/16 coil with 1/16 short wick it may transport so fast that the tiny wick will give up juice faster than its little pipe size can flow. So a larger diameter may help or just more wick in the chamber or on deck. Because it will completely wick to coil from the ends with no delay. So more is more reserve, a holding tank if you will to feed the high transfer to coil. When the coil flashes the rayon just dumps any juice in the wick instantly into the coil.
This has been my experience with the oddy build. It shines with it external wick because there's more juice around the coil. Standard kanger with overwick seems fine since there's overwick.
This may be different for different rbas but keep it in mind...
Reason being-
With cotton if you have a lot outside the coil. The cotton will soak it up but hold it at the opposite end. It's widely recognized the the cotton will dry at the coil while remaining wet at the ends or outsides. Cotton holds better than it transports the liquid.
With rayon, it transports so efficiently that if you have a 1/16 coil with 1/16 short wick it may transport so fast that the tiny wick will give up juice faster than its little pipe size can flow. So a larger diameter may help or just more wick in the chamber or on deck. Because it will completely wick to coil from the ends with no delay. So more is more reserve, a holding tank if you will to feed the high transfer to coil. When the coil flashes the rayon just dumps any juice in the wick instantly into the coil.
This has been my experience with the oddy build. It shines with it external wick because there's more juice around the coil. Standard kanger with overwick seems fine since there's overwick.
This may be different for different rbas but keep it in mind...
So I plan on getting my tencel tomorrow and trying it in gennys, bottom feeder, dripper and r91, the first thing I will to its the dripper, I'll have 2 vertical coils high of the deck in a Helio, what I'm getting from your explanation is that I should run large tails, I'm running it inside the coils, thru the coils and leave a bit of wick down on the deck, I may be able to drip on the tails on the deck and the rayon, because it wicks so well, we'll deliver juice to the coils. As opposed to dripping right on the coils.
Are we on the same page?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Are we on the same page?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Yes you can absolutely load it with long tails or tails and extra packed in to hold juice, like a carto or spheroid . The rayon will hold the juice very well you'll be able to saturate it immensly with no leaks!!! It should wick into the coil from all the pack/ long tails very efficiently - unlike cotton. You'll probably find you can drip 4 times or more juice this way. 
The rayon is like a holding tank and firing up the coil is like opening a water valve.
Oh man I just realized how great this may be in a dripper!! I think this can turn your dripper Into the added juice capacity of a carto but with a dripper performance.
Let us know tbev
My tencel comes in today, I hope it's just like the standard rayon.
The rayon is like a holding tank and firing up the coil is like opening a water valve.
Oh man I just realized how great this may be in a dripper!! I think this can turn your dripper Into the added juice capacity of a carto but with a dripper performance.
Let us know tbev
My tencel comes in today, I hope it's just like the standard rayon.
Last edited:
He'll yeah! I run my Helio on an old crappy mod so I run it is under add ohm, like 0.8ish it'd built a new set of coils, I ditched the quad coil build I had and made a dual coil built of large diameter is got cotton in it until the mail man gets here.
:
:
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
:
:Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Just received my buttload of tencel. A little hurridly loaded up the taifun with it cause its easy. First, it will take a little to get used to the difference working with it. Lets just say its different than cotton, not dramatically but no real big deal. I basically just jammed it in the coil. If it would have been cotton it would have choked like a sob. Didnt care, lit it up anyway. Flavor is better from the start.No dry hits, no gurgling. The vapor is more. My real test is when i put a just charged battery in. Normally, the first hit or two is kinda almost burnt. Not this time. Took it like chubby blonde in the redlight district! The general warmth of the vape is a little warmer. I suppose thats so because it wicks better. Been chain vaping for 5 mins and no problems. Going to have to rewick and use more care next time. Hate to see what this shiite will do when properly installed.
So far.....Its a hit!!!!
So far.....Its a hit!!!!
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
