My mod hits harder than yours

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minimalsaint

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I have been using a mech of some type for the past few months and I notice a lot of people in various threads talking about their mods "hitting harder" out of the box, etc. etc.
so my question is:
what is the basis one uses to determine how "hard" their mech hits when comparing it to another mech? I know that the mod itself is a variable when considering performance, but isn't it just a fraction of the overall equation? Am I mistaken to assume that- unless the total parts involved (battery, coil, mod, contacts and condition) in the final setup are identical in every single way, there is no true way to make this claim with any sort of accuracy?
Are we talking solid measurements with meters under load or just the way it feels to the user? Why is it that 7 times out of 10 someone recommends a high-end mod over a budget mech because it "hits harder"? Is it because paying a premium price gives a sense that it SHOULD perform better, thus laying the groundwork to a claim that is unfounded and more akin to the placebo effect?
I would like opinions from all, but mostly those who make or have made the claim that their mech "hits harder" than mod X, and what the basis is for the claim. Clone or brand bashing is not what I'm after here- that pissing match can be found in almost every other thread- just some points of view on the subject to satisfy my own curiosity.
Thanks in advance!
 

vapo jam

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my poldiac DOES hit harder than any other mech mod.

explanation: any mod will have some inherent resistance in the contacts, body, etc. it's usually a very low resistance, but it's still there. it has the exact same effect as the resistance in your atty - power gets dissipated. hence, if your mod has a lower internal resistance, less power is dissipated within it and instead goes to your coil.

if you look through high-end mods, you'll notice that a lot of them have silver-plated contacts. the reason for this is that silver has the highest conductivity (ie, lowest resistance) of any commonly available material, so the silver will be able to transfer more of the power to the atty than something like brass or steel.
 

omenwolf

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I think the besides the contacts in the device being better quality and having a lower resistance, the biggest difference your going to see is the quality of battery cell you are using. The higher quality cell the higher the voltage will be under load. I will be testing a bunch of different cells very shortly, probably tonite. Cells I have to test are, Ultra fire, panosonic, IMR, and the newer 30 amp sonys.
 

danny4x4

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It's all in the mind.......That's what I tell myself, because I only buy the cheapest mods. lol.

But seriously, I don't think that it makes that much of a difference since the extra resistance will be in the region of 0.1 to 0.3 maybe?
However, I'm willing to accept that some people may be able to tell/vape the difference. Like juice, it's subjective.

Batteries, on the other hand, would definitely make a difference in the vape quality as what omenwolf said.
 

Papadragon

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Good battery's good battery's good battery under load realy we build our own coils hear people we craft the art of our very own vape u can off set that under load with .1 drop on coil 30 amp battery's test well by the way it's all in the battery and the coil y pay 150 200 $ more for something you can fix buy moving the coil closer or cuting on strand of the braded wick out realy this is a art your coil is canves the battery is your paint and the mod is your brush
 

SirSteve

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OP you are right that there is no objective measure of "hard hit" ... heck a burnt harsh hit is a hard hit.

My mechanical burns more juice before breakfast than most mechanicals burn all day!

Hmm, that just doesn't sound as impressive as my mech is better than your mech.

Some people just have the need for anything they own to be better than anything anybody else owns, they impress themselves, the rest of us, not so much.
 

minimalsaint

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my poldiac DOES hit harder than any other mech mod.

explanation: any mod will have some inherent resistance in the contacts, body, etc. it's usually a very low resistance, but it's still there. it has the exact same effect as the resistance in your atty - power gets dissipated. hence, if your mod has a lower internal resistance, less power is dissipated within it and instead goes to your coil.

if you look through high-end mods, you'll notice that a lot of them have silver-plated contacts. the reason for this is that silver has the highest conductivity (ie, lowest resistance) of any commonly available material, so the silver will be able to transfer more of the power to the atty than something like brass or steel.

So according to this reasoning, if every mod had silver plated contacts they would all be equal? What sort of drop do you get on the Poldiac vs. a mod with brass or stainless contacts?
 

Alexander Mundy

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Yes, mod resistance will make a difference but unless you are deep sub ohm vaping the biggest factor in "hitting hard" is the coil / wick setup. Let me explain.

My AW IMR18350's have .2V drop from internal resistance with a 3 amp current at 4V. My Hero Hybrid has a .2V drop at 3 amps most of which is from the switch. (.13V) With a 1.20Ω coil and 4V battery charge .6 watts is lost from battery internal resistance and .6 watts from mod resistance. While 1.2 watts is noticeable, dropping coil resistance to 1Ω will make up for this difference. When you get well below 1Ω is when the I²R losses start mounting up. At .6Ω coil resistance I would have almost 4 watts loss, 2 of which would be from the mod itself. At .3Ω the losses would be almost 16 watts. (If my battery didn't explode because I would be well beyond its C rating) This is because the losses go up at a rate that is almost the square of the reciprocal of the coil resistance. (Almost because the resistance of the losses themselves is part of the equation) It is because of this relationship (W=I²R) that utility (mains) power is distributed in the thousands of volts to reduce the losses.

The real magic is putting what you don't lose to good work. Increasing the area of coil to juice but still heating it to vaporization temperature without overheating it is the key. Also the heated juice must be exposed to moving air or it will not vaporize well if at all.

:vapor:
 

anavidfan

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like all above have stated the different is vast and minimal considering all the variants. This discussion can go on forever, till the next generation of innovations in the years to come. The best hitting APV is the one that makes you happy, whether your needs are esthetic, wow factor, exclusivity , size etc. Get what you can afford or want to buy.

A mechanical device has the advantage that it is not going to short or wires are not going to wear or circuit boards go bad. Again if you get a good electronic APV those parts can be repaired. Good stainless is going to stay strong and unoxidized or not pit vs fair or cheap stainless. Brass housings are going to need up keep as well copper. Brass is softer so threads will wear etc. Heck a plastic housing with good contacts technically will work:)

Brass, sterling, copper contacts require some cleaning to keep all that conductivity to its best. Most peoples vaping needs are simple, they just want something to produce a good decent cloud and good taste. All those are again subjective. If you get into extreme sub ohm set ups that place a lot of your battery than voltage drop comes into play. Again it varies on your atomizer the most and the resistance you make it.

Do you need a ferrari to get you from work and home again, maybe:) but we all know how we feel about our cars. so I will leave it at that.

WHen you ask most people about what is the best or what should I get you are most likely to feel like this example.

 
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vapo jam

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So according to this reasoning, if every mod had silver plated contacts they would all be equal? What sort of drop do you get on the Poldiac vs. a mod with brass or stainless contacts?

alexander mundy explained it very well. i typically use sub-ohm coils (nothing too extreme, usually around .6-.8 ohms), but there is definitely a noticeable difference between something like a poldiac or a nemesis (both have silver-plated contacts) and a sigelei (brass, i believe). i'm not sure what the actual resistances are, but i've heard that poldiacs are among the lowest-resistance mods produced today, which is why i bought one.

the silver-plated contacts have a lot to do with it, but they're not the entire story. the materials of the mod itself will add some resistance (the entire mod is part of the circuit). the construction/assembly can add some - smaller threads for example have a larger contact surface area than larger threads, and therefore lower resistance. likewise, more pieces to assemble can lead to higher resistance.

as many have pointed out, we're not talking about a huge amount of resistance, maybe a few tenths of an ohm, but that's more than enough to make a difference. i'm sure most people can tell the difference between a 1.7 ohm coil and a 2 ohm coil, for example, and the difference between a .6 ohm coil and a .9 ohm coil is staggering.
 
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