Kanger Protank Airflow Fix

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

In time you might not have a choice, as I imagine the rubber grommets will sell through and only the silicone will be available. But that's probably some time off. And hopefully Kanger will redesign their bases or make some other adjustments to fix this issue. Again, the technology is evolving. In the meantime, unlike you, I would much rather pay closer attn when I install my tank to have rubber-free, non-burny vapor.

I also have to disagree with the bit about only bad builds causing a rubber taste. Some people can taste that rubber regardless. After I replaced my rubber grommets with silicone I could still detect a nuance of rubber in my vape.... then I realized the Vamo's center pin sat on the same rubber grommet used in heads, and when the pin gets hot, rubber fumes go right up the head pin's airhole. So I took apart the Vamo and replaced that rubber grommet with a silicone gasket, and finally, no more nasty rubber notes in my vape. Everyone's sensitivity to taste is different.

And again... to each his (or her) own.

Hey I wanted to ask you what kind of tubing you use... I wanna try it out, please. just from a flavor stand point, I have some Insulators on some of my heads I fabricated but I'm using borrowed parts for it.

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

But as for speaking generally that nasty rubber taste is due to coil leg(s) getting hot thus burning the top flange if the insulator, its evident in the burn mark on the insulator. The cause could be things like a bent leg or a kink in the wire.
I do agree with the rubber on the PV insulator getting hot and could taste like rubber cause my PT to PV connection gets much hotter faster with microcoils than it does with just regular coils. I don't subohm so I can't say what happens with a coil lower than 1.5 ohms to what it does to the PV insulator.

If you like the old white grommets there is a site that sells grommets and also other parts for rebuilds.
It's the best site I have found to date for all my parts in one place.

I will add a link for you.
I will be honest and tell you I have not ordered this part from them yet, so I don't know how they will perform.
Resistance Coil Insulator 10 Pack (CE Type Atty's, eg. Protank, Evod,T - Lightning Vapes

Vape On!

P.S. Sorry about my attitude earlier, Don't need forgiveness, Just letting you know I realize my mistake. ​

 

[Trayce]

But as for speaking generally that nasty rubber taste is due to coil leg(s) getting hot thus burning the top flange if the insulator, its evident in the burn mark on the insulator. The cause could be things like a bent leg or a kink in the wire.

Absolutely this is certainly one way to get a rubber taste.... and maybe even the most common way. But things like dry-burning a new coil can also char the grommet, then when you go to vape, that pre-charred grommet is the gift that keeps on giving.

But charred grommets and hot leg issues aside, even a perfectly built coil with a brand new grommet adds a taste of rubber to those who can detect it. When I was messing with my coil building and silicone tubing I wanted to test the airflow issue we are talking about here, so I popped a brand new stock Kanger head in my tank (after washing to clean off oils left from the manuf process) just for a second to check airflow.... and YOWZA.... that rubber grommet tastes like $%#@!! I also popped a new rubber grommet on a micro coil head I made (again to test airflow when I was troubleshooting) and wasn't even thinking about the grommet flavor cause I was focused elsewhere... but the second I took a vape... that note of chemically rubber was there! And no, it wasn't burned.

Again, I realize not everyone has this experience. In fact I vaped my tanks for an entire month when I first got them without tasting the rubber, but then once I did taste it, I couldn't taste anything BUT the rubber, practically. As always YMMV.

I do agree with the rubber on the PV insulator getting hot and could taste like rubber cause my PT to PV connection gets much hotter faster with microcoils than it does with just regular coils. I don't subohm so I can't say what happens with a coil lower than 1.5 ohms to what it does to the PV insulator.

I don't sub-ohm either... but I am sooooo much happier with the silicone gasket in the mod.

Enjoy!

 

[Trayce]

Hey I wanted to ask you what kind of tubing you use... I wanna try it out, please. just from a flavor stand point, I have some Insulators on some of my heads I fabricated but I'm using borrowed parts for it.

Here is the thread with the link http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/490677-possible-stinky-grommet-replacement.html.... might want to read through the thread ... post #12 is where I arrived at the same conclusion you did about airflow. One member towards the end of the thread (post #58 which as of right now is the second-to-last post in the thread) found a way to cut the bottom of the silicone tube that keeps the airflow going, at least for him. I haven't had to try that yet.

Or if you want to skip the thread and just get the tubing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290562623629?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Hope that helps.

 

[GREEN ZOMBIE]

Here is the thread with the link http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/490677-possible-stinky-grommet-replacement.html.... might want to read through the thread ... post #12 is where I arrived at the same conclusion you did about airflow. One member towards the end of the thread (post #58 which as of right now is the second-to-last post in the thread) found a way to cut the bottom of the silicone tube that keeps the airflow going, at least for him. I haven't had to try that yet.

Or if you want to skip the thread and just get the tubing: 3 32" I D Silicone Tubing Temperature Rated to 500F | eBay

Hope that helps.

LOL, Yeah... and you're welcome too

Glade the moderator moved this to a more main stream spot

Edit, Yeah after much consideration I think I will just stick with my machined porcelain ends, I've had the issue with the ohm's changing too, really simple issue to fix, but you're pretty smart so it shouldn't take to long to take a fix from somewhere.

 

[Trayce]

LOL, Yeah... and you're welcome too

? Hope I didn't offend somehow. I arrived at the same conclusion you did about airflow, but did not see this thread until afterward when a member in 'my' thread linked to it, which is how I ended up here (you'll see if you happen to read that thread above). Or maybe I'm misreading you and that's not at all what you meant. Anyway... vape 'em if ya got 'em!

 

[Trayce]

Edit, Yeah after much consideration I think I will just stick with my machined porcelain ends, I've had the issue with the ohm's changing too, really simple issue to fix, but you're pretty smart so it shouldn't take to long to take a fix from somewhere.

That was a Vamo problem and is a common one. The fix happens to be to replace the grommet under the pin, which I wanted to do anyway for a different reason... and when I did, no more problems reading resistances.

But thanks for reminding me I never went back and noted in that thread that it def was the Vamo!

 

[fogging_katrider]

In time you might not have a choice, as I imagine the rubber grommets will sell through and only the silicone will be available. But that's probably some time off. And hopefully Kanger will redesign their bases or make some other adjustments to fix this issue. Again, the technology is evolving. In the meantime, unlike you, I would much rather pay closer attn when I install my tank to have rubber-free, non-burny vapor.

Yes , the folks who are still buying kanger heads with the old rubber grommet are getting them because their local shop hasn't run out of inventory yet. The local b&m I frequent now only has the new heads with the much better tasting grommet.

I have been giving serious thought into making a different base for protanks that would eliminate the troublesome 510 connector and replace it with an ego connection like the minipro has, because its a huge pita to trim the silicone grommet flange which is somewhat hit or miss as far as removing the air flow 'juice vac/neg pressure' problems on the protanks.

But alas...It looks like Kangertech IS trying to do something about the bulging grommet problems...
I dont have a picture right now (I'll try to hunt one up and post it here if I can find it again), but if you take a look at the center pin they're now using on the protank 3 and the new stainless steel "aerotank" (same head as the pt3)...it has a flat milled off the flange on two sides of the pin so that there is a space on two sides of the squashed gromet for the bulging silicone to fall into, thus opening up two gaps for the air flow to go and eliminate the blockage.

Anyway, if this new milled pin is to accomidate the soft silicone issue, you can bet they'll follow suit and make that change on all their other heads in the near future.


(coil notes not directed at any individuals in particular, just added for information sake)
Edit added coil build side note...Regarding coil builds and burnt grommets...
Not doing dry burns in the first place is a good way to avoid introducing that burnt taste fwiw, and btw it also helps to eliminate the need for nr legs as they'll not become hot legs if the coil build alignment is done to perfection and never heated up unless its wicked and wet first. I use cotton and have been having great luck doing tension micro coils wound on a 3/43 screwdriver. Winding about thirteen or more wraps 30ga kanthal a1, torching pinching then replacing on the mandrel and pulling a couple winds off of both ends until i have a perfect 9/8 coil...Then installing to the base on the mandrel. This leaves me with a perfectly formed consistant 1.8ohm micro coil ready to be wicked in cotton. Doing the tension build technique (pinch/torching then pulling off end winds to arrive at the desired count) is the best way to have a perfectly formed coil without having to do any final pulse pinching in the head, thus never cooking the grommet...ever!

 

[fogging_katrider]

here is the new pt3 head, notice the different center pin with the milled flats ...

 

[fogging_katrider]

heh heh haaaaaaaa...
I made a very interesting discovery you might be interested in too.
You might remember I had mentioned above:

I have been giving serious thought into making a different base for protanks that would eliminate the troublesome 510 connector and replace it with an ego connection like the minipro has, because its a huge pita to trim the silicone grommet flange which is somewhat hit or miss as far as removing the air flow 'juice vac/neg pressure' problems on the protanks.

Haaaa as it turns out, there is no need to machine something to convert the protank to an ego similar to the mini pro, because its already been done! The base piece from a kanger minipro 2 fits directly onto the protanks in place of the 510 base piece and totally solves the squashed grommet issue along with the friggin gurgle issues the 510 air flow design in itself causes. I'm running a mini base on a pt2 on a third tank full and its been running gurgle free just like my mini pro2v2's always do. **Note...I did add one silicone stem cup upside down on top of the normally installed stem cup seal...just to make sure it was getting a positive seal between the stem and the tip tube.

fwiw...
Besides the smashed grommet problem, I am of firm belief that even without the grommet obstruction issue in a 510 connected kanger type coil, there is more vacuum created at the wick slots than there is with ego type connection on these heads. That's my theory anyway on why the mini's can run a full tank bone dry without ever having a gurgle, and the 510 connected tanks usually cant go past a half tank without starting to act up.

 

[DragonSG]

I resolved mine using a smaller diameter positive pin from evod.

 

[fogging_katrider]

Here is another option that may remedy this problem if it relocates the center pin and grommet up and out of the 510 connector...
I haven't personally gotten my grubby mits on one of these yet, but some folks are saying it locates the head up out of the gag zone

KangerTech AeroTank Base - Sun-Vapers.com

 

[jeffya2]

I have read most but not all of this thread & will add something maybe previously mentioned
We have 24 Kanger pro 2 heads, since finding this solution posted every single one have sealed perfectly
14 are the older cups & 10 are the newer silicone cups {slightly thicker}

Take a sandard coil the way it comes & pull the cup up slightly from its mounted position {just slightly starting it on the shoulder}
Take a 2nd cup & install it facing the opposite direction, make sure that the coil is tightly seated in the base

If I get a leak now I know that the post {coil assembly has loosened} if not then there may be a slight tear {difficult to see} replace the cup}
Lastly the white rubber grommet on the tip may be damaged from over tightening

Lastly like others have stated DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN WHEN SCREWING THE BASE INTO THE TANK or blockage & cup tearing may occur

 

[hcour]

I've ordered both the insulators and aerotank base linked in this thread. They were cheap enough, worth a try. I'll post after I've tried them out. Thanks for the links.

 

[hcour]

Well, I've only been vaping with the aerotank base on my PT2 for a few hours but so far, so good. I first used a head that had been working well in the old base and it did fine with the aerotank base. Then I tried a head that had stopped working with the old base and had been sitting aside for several days. So far, it's vaping like a champ and no leaks into the well of my Provari.

The airflow control is slick.

Still early yet, but, Ye Vaping Gods! have I actually found a clearo that I can stick with?!

 

[jeffya2]

I just got mine as well & they work great
The adjustment is almost too gradual allowing for very very, minute adjustments

 

[roonies]

I started using 2 of the aerotank bases on my two protank 2's and LOVE them! they totally fixed the issue of little to no airflow. My protanks are back in rotation and I'll get more now. These bases saved the day and look good on the Provari too.

 

[Mike757]

So I used this method (trimming the o-ring) on my Protank 2 atomizer and it worked great to increase airflow. My question is why my Evods and Mini Protank 2 don't also have the restricted airflow issue, only my Protank 2 does. After all, they all use the same atomizer. Is it simply because the PT2 base is larger (and knurled) which makes it easy to overtighten, making the o-ring bulge out more which restricts airflow, or does it have something to do with differences in the air holes (doubtful, since the PT2's air 'slots' seem adequate large)? Just wondering if o-ring trimming is the best solution or if there might be a better fix.