Joyetech Cuboid 150 watt

[MikeyConti]

I haven't done the update either and probably won't unless there is some big fix. I vape all rta's between 25 and 40 watts.

Makes me curious if all the people with the atty short issue had done the update?

I haven't updated to 3.10 but my atty does not short, just doesn't read an Aerotank resistance correct. Gonna try some rta's soon and see if any of them have any issues.. I really think it's just the old style Aerotank.
Waiting to get some SS, really want to try that out in TC!

 

[FiReSTaRT]

Ok, after several coil changes, my Cuboid is still working great with my STM clone (but using an original RBA v2). Still iffy with the Bellus. I was having those resistance jumps both on v3.0 and 3.10. I'll have to try it out with my other franken-STM (completely assembled from parts by different mfgrs). Bellus works just fine with the IPV4.

 

[TheLordWinter]

Got my Cuboid in the vape mail today! Cracked open the box and I'm impressed. Very small device. Folks are right, though, it's weighty. Moving to the Cuboid from an XCube II that I've had nowhere near the problems with as other folks have, here's my thoughts on the Cuboid...

The Cuboid is solidly built. There's nothing about this thing to me, that feels delicate. Was aware of the update, so I put the batteries in and went over the instructions, then went straight to 3.10. I exclusively use 316L SS wire, TC only for me these days. Using 0088 in the TCR mode puts me dead on and gives me a quick ramp up to proper temp with a steady hold until I let go of the fire button, compared to the XCube that had a tendency to pulse with coils that had seen about half their life. The resistance monitor in the Cuboid is also more accurate and sensitive. It tracked the changes in resistance as my coils aged, where the XCube II does not.

I was happy with my XCube II, so nothing here should be taken as a knock against Smok. The Cuboid is just a newer, better device that has improved upon what's already out there. I'm very happy with my purchase. I'm also starting to feel lucky in that I don't seem to be having the same problems that a lot of folks out there do with the new mods, especially when it comes to TC with SS wire. I love it, and rarely seem to have serious issues with it.

 

[HDMontana]

Still enjoying mine. No problems to report.

HD

 

[Xexist]

Got mine in the mail today. Seems ok so far and the Cleito holy [censored] it is rocking my [censored] world!

 

[Tim Jenson]

I was curious, is the Cuboid capable of firing nichrome wire?

 

[pufZeppelin]

I was curious, is the Cuboid capable of firing nichrome wire?

I would say YES

NiC80 / Kanthal / Ni / Ti / SS

does it all . . .

whad I win... ?​

 

[KenD]

I was curious, is the Cuboid capable of firing nichrome wire?

Yes, every mod is. Nichrome is a common wire used in power (vw) mode. Note that it doesn't work in temperature control.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[jersey_emt]

Now that I've started making my own juice, I've moved from building single coils almost exclusively with the occasional dual coil build (to save on juice consumption), to building dual coils almost exclusively with the occasional quad coil build (since 30 mL of juice is now less than $1). I was vaping single coils at 40-50 watts, but need to push things higher with dual coils, and I'm hitting the limit of my 60-watt iTaste MVP 3.0 Pro, so I'm looking for a new high-power regulated mod.

The Joyetech Cuboid looks like it does everything right at an amazing price point. Is there really any reason to spend any more money on a different 100+ watt mod, or should I just go ahead with the Cuboid? I'd like to keep things under $100 if possible (I already have plenty of 30+ amp 18650 batteries and a charger, so all I need is the mod), and 100 watts is the absolute minimum I want. 150 watts or even more is ideal since it gives me more growing room should I decide I want to vape with that much power.

I'm just a bit concerned because of that low price point...is there something about the Cuboid that makes it much less desirable than more expensive high-power mods such as those from Sigelei, or is it just a matter of technology dropping in price over time?

 

[Xexist]

Saw this on reddit today in case it helps anyone -

"
I had a Cuboid for about a day before getting the "Atomizer Short" message at all times. I sent it in to get repaired, but this is what the nice lady at Joyetech had to say:

"Kindly pls check, The o-ring insulator under the centre connector has been squashed. When you tighten your atty it moves and shorts out. Get a small flat screwdriver and carefully lift the centre pin and try and squash as much of the o-ring back underneath it. If your atomiser's centre sticks out too much it'll break the rubber insulator."

The center pin on my Thunderstorm RTA sticks out a good bit. Just a warning!

"

 

[AtmizrOpin]

he does a decent job reviewing devices but he gives accurate TCR numbers using a thermocouple.

 

[pufZeppelin]

I like him a lot
a very good reviewer
no nonsense, to the point, honest thorough evaluations...

 

[Jalcide]

The acrylic used in the face is thin, warp-y, (scratched and scuffed like crazy in my case) and of lesser quality than the VTC Mini screen, even. And no where near the quality of the surface of something like the Snow Wolf glass panels. Wasn't expected it to be that good, just not quite as poor quality as it is.

Correction to my mini review... Once again, Joyetech's invisible screen protector makes things look worse than they are. After removing the protector on the front face and +/- buttons (yup, it's there too), the screen is flawless (for acrylic).

The only way to get the screen protector off was with a bent-tipped dental style pick. It's really cut flush, but it's there.

While I don't recommend taking the screen protectors off on the VTC Mini and RX200, on this device, I do. It greatly improves the look and feel of the finish.

 

[cricque]

Hmm 088 for 316L ? On my reuleaux i have to set it at 125 to get a good vape, same for my smok xcube mini. At 88, 45W, 450F i get almost 0 vapor. Was thinking of getting an cuboid, so was wondering

I am using UD 316L 26ga

 

[David247]

I have been having problems with temp control after 200w upgrade. I updated the firmware to 200w and it worked great for the first few days. Yesterday it started to immediately hit temp protection and vapor production was poor. It performed normally in power mode. I just updated the firmware back to 150w and it is working fine now. Same exact settings but very different vapor production between firmware versions. I will just stick with the original firmware I guess.

I had the same problem today after a week I down grade to 3.0 then back up to 3.10 fixed the glitch

 

[druckle]

Saw this on reddit today in case it helps anyone -

"
I had a Cuboid for about a day before getting the "Atomizer Short" message at all times. I sent it in to get repaired, but this is what the nice lady at Joyetech had to say:

"Kindly pls check, The o-ring insulator under the centre connector has been squashed. When you tighten your atty it moves and shorts out. Get a small flat screwdriver and carefully lift the centre pin and try and squash as much of the o-ring back underneath it. If your atomiser's centre sticks out too much it'll break the rubber insulator."

The center pin on my Thunderstorm RTA sticks out a good bit. Just a warning!

"

This is a problem with a lot of 510 connectors (damaged from excessive atomizer 510 length.
I bought some precision round shims (basically precision thickness washers) and use the shims to provide a tight atomizer placement without torquing down the atomizer to the max and damaging the 510.

Duane

 

[FiReSTaRT]

Here's the weird part about my atomizer short issue.. I am using a heat sink as a thread protector..

Now that heat sink stays on the mod, never leaves it and the tanks get screwed into it. I still get those atomizer short messages with the Bellus but never with the STM screwed into the same heat sink. When I move the Bellus to the IPV4, I get no issues, just vape it normally.

 

[52anddone]

It took a while, but here are my results for VTC mini vs Cuboid run time test.

Hardware used:
Joyetech VTC mini updated to FW 3.0 from FW 2.0 75 Watt
Joyetech Cuboid FW 3.0 150 Watt (not updated)
Lemo Drop w/3mm, 30g dual Twisted Kanthal A-1, (used on both Mod's exclusively till battery depletion)
Blue Samsung 25R's from RTDvapor.Com (3 Brand New and Never used)
(bought 6 at same time, Charged on a Xtar VC2 to 4.22V just for this test)

Setups:
VTC mini setup= 13.5w, 4.76v, 1.68Ω as read by mod.
Cuboid setup= 13.5w, 4.79v, 1.70Ω as read by mod.
Timers set to 00000 on both devices

Results:
VTC mini= 3.09v, DMM measured at 3.13v, Time to Battery cutoff = 1638 seconds.
Cuboid= 3.16v/3.21v, DMM measured at 3.20v/3.22v, Time to cutoff = 2365 seconds.

Notes:
For a difference of 727 seconds more Vape time with my Cuboid that my VTC mini. If I had gotten to 819 seconds then I would have had 1.5x the vape time with the Cuboid dual battery mod as I would have had with the VTC mini single battery mod.

 

[Rixsta]

Nice carbon wrap for the Cuboid, gives it more grip..

 

[Major911]

Here's the weird part about my atomizer short issue.. I am using a heat sink as a thread protector..

Now that heat sink stays on the mod, never leaves it and the tanks get screwed into it. I still get those atomizer short messages with the Bellus but never with the STM screwed into the same heat sink. When I move the Bellus to the IPV4, I get no issues, just vape it normally.

I use these heatsinks on all my mods to protect the 510. The best feature is they are adjustable. No more worrying about spring tension and bad contacts. Once in a great while I might have to make an adjustment for a particular atty but for the most part it's set it and forget it.


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