Isopropyl Alcohol for tobacco extraction??

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jbbishop

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I didn't believe that the butane experiment would work, but thanks for the report.

Absolute ethanol refers to a pharmaceutical term for anhydrous ethanol. It is generally defined as having less than one per cent water. Technical grade is between 96% and 98% ethanol and ethanol absolute means pure ethanol without water ('almost') 99.9% ethanol. There is also 99% Iso (anhydrous isopropanol) and you can also try to dry the stuff out yourself if you're ambitious.

With petroleum ether, we're not talking about starter fluid here. You can get absolute ethanol and ether at your local chem shop. 99% ISO can also be gotten at some medical supply outlets and (possibly) some pharmacies. I believe the reason ether will work better is because it's far more selective. Again, anything with water in it is going to bring tars and resins over.

Use an electric hotplate. Don't work with ether around any open flames.

Other precautions apply.

You can get a lot of glasswares for cheep on Ebay.

See my post here: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/diy-e-liquid/1135-extracting-nicotine-tobacco-4.html
 
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jbbishop

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Feb 16, 2009
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There have been a few reports of individuals who have (apparently) achieved a satisfactory tobacco essence using a simple 1-step solvent extraction with ethanol and which has reportedly been pleasant when mixed and vaporized. My main reservation here is where the solvents may contain water, that the extraction process is bringing over a great deal of tar and resin that would be detrimental to the atomizer as well as being a source of undesirable toxins and contaminants. The interesting aspect of the method is that the solvent extraction would be able to capture the aromatic essence of the tobacco and potentially, a fairly productive yield of nicotine and related alkaloids. While impure, it seems to me that if it works without ruining your atomizer and you're not smoking the crap, it would be an acceptable compromise.

Some background on Absolutes (Wiki):
"Similar to essential oils, absolutes are concentrated, highly-aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. Whereas essential oils can typically be produced through steam distillation, absolutes require the use of solvent extraction techniques or more traditionally, through enfleurage. Absolutes are usually more concentrated than essential oils. Also, the efficiency and low temperature of the extraction process helps prevent damage to the fragrant compounds. With a good understanding of the solvent they are using, extractors can produce absolutes with aromas closer to the original plant product than is possible with essential oils produced through distillation. This production method leaves trace amounts of solvents in the absolutes. Therefore, absolutes are considered undesirable for aromatherapy, since it is believed that they could cause allergies and affect the immune system."

Probably, manufacturers would be less likely to use solvents more toxic than ethanol if there is a likelihood of the product being used in foods. I doubt most of us are going to be too concerned over vaping "trace" amounts of ethanol.

Here's a couple of examples of solvent extraction with ethanol:

OK, I'm vaping it and..... arghhh oh, my "Croak".
People are just to dam paranoid, here's my day...
Took two Heaven Brand (Kate Can Appreciate) Rum Cigars and cut up with scissors into flask, came to around the 100ML mark.
Added straight Ethyl 120 Proof (Testing, Not Worth My 190 Proof) to the 200ML mark.
Heated on low with foil top until boil (Use Hot Plate, No Flame). Removed foil and let simmer for 15-20 minutes, let the Ethyl steam out and water drop back in off the sides of the flask.
Let cool, then strain through coffee filter into glass jar... now have my nicotine.
Mixed 0.7ML Wilton Glycerine (From Michael's Craft Store) with 1.0ML Propylene Glycol Solution for Cigar Humidors and 0.4ML Nicotine concoction.
Smoke is oh so nice, and felling pretty dam cheery. When fluid hits the lips its quite sweet and tingles. Oh god thats good, I just took some more hits.

AND

Ok I have a method... However try at your own risk!!!
First go buy EverClear 190 proof grain alcohol at your local Liquor store. (Some states in USA this product is illegal)
Second buy some raw tobacco leaves. (Do a search on google for "Tobacco Leaves for Sale") DO NOT TRY TO TAKE APART YOUR ANOLOGS AND USE THE TABACCO IN THERE!!!
Third shred the tobacco leaves is to grass size clipping until you have about an ounce worth of Tobacco.
Forth take a glass jar that is sealable and put the ounce of tobacco in the jar. Pour some EverClear in the jar till the Tobacco floats freely. Let sit for 8 hours and shake it ever couple of hours in between. You will end up with a dark brown liquid.
Fifth take a metal pot and use an old cotton shirt to cover the pot and pour the liquid from the glass jar through the cotton shirt. The liquid will end up free of debris in the pot. Repeat step 4 and 5 again to maximize the yield with the same tobacco. After that throw the tobacco out its useless now since all the nicotine has been extracted.
Sixth take an ELECTRIC STOVE (DO NOT USE AN OPEN FLAME STOVE FOR THIS!!!) and turn on to medium low and place the pot on the stove and let simmer till the consistency reaches and oily consistency. If it gets to thick just add in a small amount of Everclear. Make sure you have ventilation in your work area. What is left is nicotine concentrate. Be patient it will take a couple of hours.
Seventh take the nicotine concentrate and PG and mix 25% extract and 75% PG. Shake Well. Now you have your own Juice.
I would recommend that you play around with the levels of nicotine concentrate and PG to get a taste you like.

Another member has seemingly suggested a two-stage extraction method that would likely filter out much of the tar and resins which would be retained in a solution of distilled water that was washed with ether.

Extraction with volatile solvents
so im soak 50g of cherry pipe tobacco chop into powder in 500ml of water for 24 hours then filter and put 25ml of DIETHYLETHER, shake sometimes for another 24 hours then gently separate the upper layer, evaporate the DIETHYLETHER and get around 500mg yellow substance witch have identical smell and after mixing with 50ml of VG identical taste of the cherry tobacco when u smoke it...

AND

so i try the butane extraction used to extract hash oil = u can get only very small amount of extract using lot of butane the ethanol or DIETHYLETHER method is much more effective, and same about ethanol and DIETHYLETHER in DIETHYLETHER u solve more nicotine and evaporate more quickly then ethanol remains pure extract with 0.001% left with ethanol u wait looong time and then u have extract with 5% wather ... best metohod using DIETHYLETHER is with soxhlet extractor

Solvent partitioning requires two solvents that are not miscible in each other. Usually one of the solvents is water. The other solvent is a liquid that does not dissolve very well in water, such as diethyl ether (this is the most common type of ether, and it is often called simply "ether"). If you look closely at a mixture of ether and water, you will see two layers because the two compounds do not dissolve very well in each other.

It's important that the two solvents are immiscible, because then it is easy to separate them from each other. The top liquid can be drawn off with a pipet, or the bottom layer can be drained out via a stopcock. The compounds that dissolved in the ether have thus been separated from the water-soluble compounds. Because ether evaporates very easily, the compounds that dissolved in the ether can also be separated from the ether. As a result, purer compounds can be obtained.

Ethanol, an alcohol, and water are miscible because they are chemically similar. So it doesn't seem that Izx is here referring to the same method in his second post as he has advocated in the first, but rather, seems to be suggesting the same solvent extraction method as the previous two examples.

Unfortunately, here in the U.S., you can't get ethyl ether.

Q: Is it possible to extract ether from starter fluid using simply water? How else can you extract ether from starter fluid?
A: In short, not really. The only way to effectively separate petroleum distillates from diethyl ether in starter fluid is by fractional distillation. This requires appropriate equipment and training in relevant lab procedures, can be EXTREMELY dangerous, and is outside of the skillset of most people (see warning below).
First, it is important to distinguish between ether (the specific chemical diethyl ether with the molecular formula C4H10O) and petroleum ether, a name for a mixture of hydrocarbons with no specific chemical identity. When used for inhalation, the term "ether" is usually assumed to mean the specific chemical diethyl ether, used as an anaesthetic in the early 20th century, although there is confusion among experimental individuals, some of whom buy products labeled as containing petroleum ether.
"Starter fluid" (or "starting fluid") is a generic term referring to a mixture of combustible volatile solvents, commonly "engine starter fluid" for automotive or other engine uses. While engine starter fluid includes 20-60% diethyl ether, depending on grade, it also contains petroleum distillates such as hexane and heptane.1 Many charcoal lighter fluids - sometimes also referred to as "starter fluid" - are composed almost entirely of petroleum distillates and contain no ether at all.2
Some websites and experience reports mention a "water extraction"
procedure that involves shaking a mixture of distilled water and starter fluid. This method supposedly "separates" the diethyl ether from "impurities" (referring to the petroleum distillates). The technique then describes pouring off or suctioning off particular layers of the resulting mix to get purer ether for inhalation.
The so-called "water extraction" method is simplistic and ineffective, since petroleum distillates and water are not miscible (petroleum distillates do not dissolve in water), and the distillates stay mixed with the ether, because of their common chemical nature. In fact, if the components in the water-insoluble fraction were to separate, which is highly unlikely, the density of ether would put it at the bottom, closest to the water, at the water:non-polar interface, making it very difficult to isolate. Because ether is slightly soluble in distilled water,3 the volume of the ether in the water-insoluble fraction may actually be reduced by repeated shaking and separating.
The Entheogen Review looked at this issue and reported the same thing:
"Ether is slightly soluble in distilled water and heptane is insoluble. Hence, if one were to try to clean up starting fluid via repeatedly shaking with distilled H2O and then separating the layers, you not only don't end up with very good ET2O, but you are actually reducing the amount of ether that you have."5

I like the two stage extraction method, but I'm not sure a water extraction attempt without heat will be as effective as otherwise. Also, I remain interested in the suggestion of the way in which the solvent extraction and lower heat may be able to retain more of the aromatic essences.

While more nicotine compounds would be leached into the water in the first stage if the solution were acidic, and leached out of the water extract into a suitable solvent if basified, ethanol should be very effective alone at extracting useful nicotine compounds.

Another idea is to avoid extracting water solubles at all (those that are not also soluble in alcohol) where nicotine is also highly soluble in ethanol, by using absolute ethanol.

Proof and percent: The "proof" measure is double the percentage volume of pure alcohol. Thus 100-proof spirit contains 50% alcohol by volume, 200-proof is 100% pure.

Ethanol that is dry is difficult to find cheap, especially in the US. It is expensive, and highly controlled for excise tax and health reasons. If you want to try to make it yourself, you'll need molecular sieve, quicklime, or something else to do a "chemical" drying. Be aware that absolute ethanol absorbs water from the atmosphere, gradually decreasing its concentration.

One method takes advantage of the fact that water will dissolve in most salts, but ethanol will not. Therefore, water can be removed (although not entirely) by filtering the alcohol/water through dry salt. Almost any “hygroscopic" (water absorbing) material such as calcium salt, various sulphates, phosphates and similar materials will work. However, common rocksalt, such as used in water softeners is cheap and available. Fill a drum or container with rocksalt. The alcohol/water is poured in at the top and filters down through the salt. Relatively water-free alcohol is collected through holes or a valve at the bottom of the container. Remember that the salt must be dry. After absorbing water from a certain amount of alcohol, the salt must be re-dried either in an oven or by spreading it out in the sun. Drying the NaCl out in an oven is very fast at 300 F. This is a popular method for those making their own gasohol. Cool in a closed jar.

Dont expect salts working fast in drying, also with strong stirring it will take at least a day until the job is done and often it will be necessary to replace the salt with freshly dried one at least once. Distilling the dried solvent is advised as the salts are ALMOST insoluble in alcohol but not completely.

You get EtOH to over 99% anhydrous with CuSO4 - time and changing the salt are necessary though. This 99%+ alcohol can be made completely anhydrous with NaOH - also time, weeks are needed here but it works. For drying alcohols CuSO4 is often used, it has the advantage that you can see if its wet as it turns blue then, anhydrous it is white/greyish.

Anhydrous magnesium sulfate is commonly used for drying alcohols.... just don't use CaCl2, addition products will form. It probably won't work very well, but the idea is that upon heating magnesium sulfate in a dry environment, it gives up some of its h2o molecules... If put into a wet environment, it will then aborb those water molecules. Cool in something you can seal to stop the Magnesium Sulphate from reabsorbing too much water vapor from the atmosphere. Not a very efficient or easy process, but if you absolutely need to come up with a drying procedure, it might work.

DRYING WITH LIME

The oldest method of drying alcohol is dehydration with lime. This process is still used on a laboratory scale. It is similar to the salt absorption method just described except that, with this method, water is removed by a chemical reaction. Ordinary lime (calcium oxide, formula CaO) reacts with water to form calcium hydroxide (formula Ca(OH)2). The process is simple. The water-containing alcohol is mixed with lime at a ratio of about 35 pounds (or more) of lime for each gallon of water to be removed (as determined with a hydrometer) and allowed to “slake" for 12-24 hours with occasional stirring . The lime reacts with the water to form calcium hydroxide. The calcium hydroxide is insoluble in the alcohol and so the relatively pure (99.5%) alcohol goes to the top of the container and the calcium hydroxide settles to the bottom.

The usual method of separating the lime and calcium hydroxide from the alcohol is by distillation. Alternately, but less desirable, the alcohol can be carefully drawn off (decanted) and filtered to remove any suspended particles that give it a milky appearance.

If you want anhydrous ethanol get some molecular sieves - they can be reused time and time again by heating them to dry the water off that they have absorbed. Molecular Sieve Desiccants > Bulk Molecular Sieve Desiccants from Delta Adsorbents

"Zeolite (aka 'molecular sieve' ) works BEAUTIFULLY to suck the last bit of water out of distilled ethanol. I got a sample of Type 3A Molecular Sieve from Adcoa in Southern California:
ThomasNet® - CNC Machining, Metal Stamping, Gaskets, Fasteners and other industrial products and services.
"I got a can of the 4-8 mesh -- little balls of rock about 1/8" diameter. They absorb about 20% of their weight of water over the course of a few hours. Take a liter of 95% ethanol, throw in 250g of the stuff, swirl occasionally, filter out the next day through a strainer, and presto! Anhydrous ethanol. Not expensive either -- US$2.05 a pound in 10 lb quantities, and reusable indefinitely. You drive off the water under a broiler for an hour."

Drying agents like molecular seives - with holes of 3 Angstrom (one Angstrom is one ten billionth of a meter) can seperate water (which has a diameter of 2.5 Angstroms) from ethanol (which has a diameter of 4.5 Angstroms).

You could try this: buy zeolite from a (fish) pet store. Bake it in the oven at ~140c. Let it cool. mix it with the purest vodka you can find. Repeat the procedure. Zeolites are excellent drying agents and barely soluble. I don't have any idea whether these are suitable.
 
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jbbishop

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Feb 16, 2009
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Suppliers of Anhydrous Ethyl Ether

I believe diethyl ether in the market almost always goes about 99+%. ACS grade usually about >99.8% with minuscule amount of stabilizing agent such as BHT. Without stabilizers, you're more likely to form peroxides which will be explosive. Supposedly, in Europe, you can buy it OTC (although not as pure.)

You will find it extremely difficult if not impossible, as a private individual, to buy diethyl ether in most Western countries due to its increasing use in illicit drug manufacture. In most countries the authorities have massively restricted the general public's access to ether. Bona fide institutions such as universities and research institutes plus established fuel manufacturers can still obtain it, but it is highly unlikely the latter will on sell to individuals. Unless you have a contact within the university, research or an industry user, I do not think it likely you will be able to readily obtain ether-at any price.

You could check these threads:

Common Sources of Chemicals Listed by The Society for Amateur Scientists

Sources of Supplies for Citizen Chemist

"I don't know if Artchemicals.com will sell to you without a business license, but they have the smallest quantitities (i.e., 50ml) of ether available that I've seen listed anywhere."

You could make it yourself...

(NOTE: This, like many other chemistry experimentals, can be dangerous. The nature of both Diethyl ether, and Sulfuric acid are potential hazards to your safety. Don't attempt this without the proper safety measures in place! Be ready in the case of fire or toxic spill.)

Get you some 100% Ethanol solution or as close as possible anyways...(Denatured alcohol works fine unless u need super purity), and concentrated Sulfuric acid (at least 90%). Both can be found at your local hardware store or chemical supply house -- Ethanol as denatured alcohol and Sulfuric acid as drain cleaner.

You also need, for this experiment:
1 sealable glass vessel (glass bottle, for instance - preferably clear)
1 vessel for use as an ice-bath.
Ice
Water
Thermometer (optional)

Experimental:
1. Fill the larger vessel with a good amount of ice, and add some water. This is your ice-bath.
2. Place the sealable bottle into the ice-bath.
3. Add an amount of Ethanol into Vessel 1.
4. SLOWLY add drops of Sulfuric acid to Vessel 1. Add a few drops, and seal the container. Shake, repeat. Note that this reaction is exothermic and generates a good amount of heat. This is what the ice-bath is for. The reaction temperature should stay below 34.6C, and MUST stay below 130C -- otherwise Ethylene will be formed, not Diethyl ether. Generally if the acid is dripped in slowly enough, and enough ice-water is present to keep the reaction cool, this is not a problem.

-Make sure that after each addition, the bottle is re-sealed while it is cooling again. The boiling point of Diethyl ether is 34.6C (94.28F), and we don't want to lose our ether to the atmosphere.

5. When the reaction is complete, distill the contents of the cool, sealed vessel to a temperature between 35C and 78.4C (BP of Ethanol) over a spark-free electric hot plate. Or, as a safer alternative one may use hot water to distill the mixture. Utmost care must be taken not to generate any sparks/friction during this distillation - as Diethyl ether is very flammable. Collect the ether from the product vessel.

Your ether should be of high purity, with any traces of other chemicals likely being small amounts of Ethanol - that risk increasing the higher the distillation temp was. Sulfuric acid's boiling point is 290C so it is not likely that any should remain in the final product.

It would likely be hard to separate the Ethanol and Sulfuric acid since Ethanol forms an azeotrope with water at 95% conc. or so, and Sulfuric acid needs a small amount of water to prevent fuming.

One more note: If Denatured alcohol is used, it is possible that a small amount of Di-m-ethyl ether (up to 4%) will be formed as well. However, this substance is a gas at room temperature and thus should evaporate quite readily.

SAFETY NOTES:
1. Have Sodium bicarbonate (Baking soda) on hand in case any Sulfuric acid spills. In the case any spills onto the skin, pour an excess of Sodium bicarbonate on the area immediately, THEN wash the area with water, then soap. Rinse off, and dry thoroughly. Concentrated Sulfuric acid reacts violently with water and that is a reaction you don't want on your skin.

2. Have a fire extinguisher, or at least some water, on hand in the event of a fire (which is very possible in this experiment.)

3. A gas mask or fume hood is recommended but not required. Diethyl ether is not toxic in small amounts but is intoxicating. Sulfuric acid is toxic but is not likely to become a gas during this reaction. Basically the best advice is to not breathe any fumes from a chemical reaction (ever.)

This is the key: never distill to dryness!. That way any peroxides in the pot never get hot enough to explode. Also remember that dry peroxides can be detonated by friction as a localized high temperature is produced that way.

As for keeping your ether safe, and peroxide free, anything with an hydroxide ion can inhibit peroxide formation. NaOH, KOH, CaOH etc. Just throw a bit in the bottom of the bottle, and shake it up real good, then filter.

HERE'S A MORE THOROUGH DISCUSSION OF THE METHOD:

Ether is a very useful organic solvent that has fallen into ill repute because of its use by drug dealers. It is a watched chemical by the DEA, purchasing large quantities will put you on The List. Ether is an explosively flammable liquid that will easily fill a room with fumes just waiting to be ignited by the slightest heat, it ignites over 180 °C. Keep containers of ether tightly closed and away from all flame sources. Ether used to be an anesthetic back in the days, inhaling the fumes will cause unconsciousness, but not much damage if you get to fresh air. Ether can also form an explosive peroxide if it is old or exposed to air. In short, keep ether away from all flame, in a well ventilated area, and tightly sealed in its container. You might think that ether and water do not mix, wrong, ether can hold up to 1.2% water. The only OTC source of ether is in starting fluid for cars, among other contaminants, from which it can be distilled. Ether can easily be prepared by reacting ethyl alcohol with sulfuric acid.

Synthesis: Assemble the necessary equipment for fractional distillation, adding in a Clasien adapter. Place the fractionating column on the side arm of the Clasien, and a 2-holed rubber stopper in the straight arm. In the first hole, place a thermometer that extends to near the bottom of the reaction flask. In the second hole, place a length of glass tubing that extends to near the bottom and sticks up about an inch. Place a short length of rubber tubing on the glass tubing and connect it to an addition funnel. The rubber tubing is to slightly offset the funnel which would get in the way of the thermometer. If using a 500-mL reaction flask, add 146 mL of anhydrous ethyl alcohol. You can use 95% alcohol but the efficiency of the reaction will suffer because of the water. Slowly add 133 mL of anhydrous sulfuric acid, again you can use less than 100%, but the more water there is the worse the reaction will proceed. Place a magnetic spin bar in the flask and connect it to the rest of the apparatus. Using a hotplate or oil bath, no flame, heat the reaction flask, while stirring, to between 130-140 °C and hold it at that temperature. Be sure not to go in excess of 150 °C as ethylene gas will be produced. Once some distillate starts to come over, slowly add an additional 146 mL of ethyl alcohol from the addition funnel at the same rate as is collected from the distillation. That should be about a drop or two a second. The total distillation time should be over 2 hours. After the distillation is over, pour the distillate from the receiver flask to a large beaker and add 10% sodium hydroxide solution until the pH is neutral. Pour this mixture into a seperatory funnel and allow the lighter ether layer to float on top. Remove the heavier water layer and wash the remaining ether by shaking twice with a volume of saturated salt water equal to the volume of ether. Allow the last wash to sit for several minutes to insure complete separation then remove the water layer. Put the ether in a Florence flask and add 15 g of calcium chloride for every 100 mL of ether, stir this for 2 hours with a magnetic stirrer. Finally, do a simple distillation to remove the now anhydrous ether from the calcium chloride.

-----------------------------

OTC Ether

For those who don't care to synthesize ether, there is a readily available source in the automotive section of your local department store. Most people know it as starting fluid. The main component is diethyl ether. The current leading K-mart brand contains heptane(bp 98°), dimethyl propyl methane (2-methyl pentane, bp 60°), and diethyl methyl methane (3-methyl pentane, bp 63°) as added ingredients. The other ingredients all boil significantly higher than ether so the ether can be removed by distillation. To collect the ether for distillation, spray the contents of the can into a flask that is nestled in crushed ice (in a well ventilated area or outside). Once can use one of the "straws" that comes with a can of WD-40 to spray the starting fluid contents well into the flask. Distill the liquid collecting the portion boiling up to 35°C.

Here's one person's report of distilling ether from starter fluid:

I distilled some ether from starting fluid today, with good results. Two cans were emptied into a 1 L Erlenmeyer flask, coming to a volume of around 800-900 mL. The flask was sealed with a rubber stopper, and the rubber stopper was linked by plastic hose to a condenser. The condenser consisted of a copper coil inside a 3" diameter piece of PVC pipe filled with regular ice. I didn't feel like buying 5 pounds of dry ice for $5, when the same $5 bought me 35 pounds of regular ice. I didn't use it all however, only about 10 pounds or so for both cooling the receiving flask and the condenser. The flask was heated on an oil bath at 50-60 C for 4 hours at which point bubbles stopped forming. 150-200 mL of distillate was obtained, which made me a little dizzy when I caught a whiff. The operation appears to be a success. 200 mL of ether for a grand total of $2.50 isn't bad! I will proceed to dry it with calcium chloride later, but even now it appears to be quite pure.

Additional recommendations:

Add a piece of copper wire to the flask where you store the ether in, this prevents peroxide formation. This does not destroy already formed peroxides though. To destroy peroxides re-distill but add a dash of ferrous sulfate before starting the distillation.
So you have now 200ml of ether. A easy way to get it pure is to collect about 10ml at start of the distillation change receiving flask, collect about 150ml and change back again. The 150ml "middle fraction" resembles the pure stuff.
Usual ice/water mixture is absolutely ok for condensing ether. Don't forget to cool your receiving vessel and put the copper wire in from start.
Dry your product with lots of NaOH - this takes some weeks (yes weeks) but is the only way to get the ether dry.
Store in a dark (brown) bottle away from air and at a cool place.
 
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DCrist721

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Feb 15, 2009
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Actually, you can only get 95% ethanol - 190 proof Everclear.

Alchohol cannot be distilled past 95.6%.

No, that's not true, 98% pure ethanol can be made, they can actually go up to 99%. I forgot how it's done exactly, but it does exist, however only recognized labs can get it I believe.

I don't think Everclear is legal in NY though anyway.
 

Nietzsc

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ECF Veteran
Sep 27, 2009
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México
Well I haven't tried but look up for a movie called RUN FROM THE CURE, in that movie they explain how to extract thc from hemp for medicinal use. I think that the same method applies to tobbaco but the problem is that the oil hemp is used on the skin or ingested they actually also sugest vaporizing it but they don't talk any specifics about vaporizing.

Another thing is that with tobbaco i wouldn't know how much to use because in that movie they explain the ammount of hemp to be used for that specific purpose so I wouldn't know how much for vaping, they suggest naphta, isopropyl alcohol and butane as solvents, being isopropyl alcohol the easiest to buy and also the cheapest. But if you do it right you wouldn't left traces of isopropyl behind.

I don't remember the site, but one of those DIY sells pure nicotine and they sell it to you in a container that is the same size and shape of those little bottles that contain samples of perfume, is very concentrated and it has a very dark brown color. So as soon as I have the time I will try this method with some pipe tobbacco and see how it goes...
 

WillyB

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Oct 21, 2009
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Extraction with volatile solvents
so im soak 50g of cherry pipe tobacco chop into powder in 500ml of water for 24 hours then filter and put 25ml of DIETHYLETHER, shake sometimes for another 24 hours then gently separate the upper layer, evaporate the DIETHYLETHER and get around 500mg yellow substance witch have identical smell and after mixing with 50ml of VG identical taste of the cherry tobacco when u smoke it...
Seems all you'll be doing doing is getting the casing that has been applied to the pipe tobacco.

Casing is the process of spraying, soaking, or dipping the leaves in flavorings such as fruit juices. cocoa,
 
totally totally agree syntax! I tried everclear, but read some posts here about handling and the unknown mg of the resulting nicotine touching your skin. I stopped dead in my tracks and never opened the bottle.8-o

From what I know about isopropyl alcohol, you'd be better off with something else. The isopropyl part is digested to acetone and this will make you feel slightly ill. Wouldn't want to inhale anything like that...

For plain extractions, ETHANOL may serve better- everclear and so forth. Stay clear of methanol...

Water sounds like a safe bet, it's the universal solvent and has yet to be proven toxic ;)
 

bshalaby

Full Member
Oct 11, 2010
35
0
Cairo Egypt
WOW , Did not see this topic. I just ask on another thread or I would have ask it hear.
I have about 5 ponds of Virgin homegrown tobacco that I grew last year. It is to harsh to smoke so I will be doing some Extraction's.
My question is How would I know how much nicotine is inside the tobacco ?

These are the accurate listings from a medical study done on water extractions of nicotine from different forms of tobacco. Beleive it or not people have been using it for suicide, to each his own.

1 cigarette= 1gm of tobacco= 10 to 20 mg of nicotine (10 for light 20 for very heavy brands)
Pipe tobacco 1gm=10 mg of nicotine
Snus 1gm= 4-5 mg of nicotine

Hope this helps
 
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