If you are like me, you never part with a tool unless it becomes unsafe or just doesn't work anymore. No mater if you haven't used in 10 years or more, I just may need it one day, lol.
So all the talk about Dial Calipers got me thinking I should dig out my Brown and Sharpe and give it a quick Rub with a Oiled Cloth. When I pulled out the Cigar Box it lives in, I found this Old Soldier which I had Forgotten about.
As you can see, they are pretty much a mess. The Zero is about .010" off. And it is a Miracle that the Dial Pointer didn't snag on the inside of the Broken Crystal.
After a Search of e-Bay, I found a 37mm Crystal from a seller with Good Feedback that should fit.
So now the question was should I attempt to Fix the Zero. I've seen people do it. And Most of the time it works. What they heck. Lady Luck Favors the Bold ...
Gotta say it was a Little Dicey. And I'm Glad I was wearing Reading Glasses when I did it because the Pointer Popped Off like a Champagne Cork right in my face. But I got it done. And Reset the Zero.
And then Bingo Bango, here it is with the New Crystal installed.
Really surprised how well things turn out. Given it is a 30 Year Old No-Name Caliper.
As you can see, they are pretty much a mess. The Zero is about .010" off. And it is a Miracle that the Dial Pointer didn't snag on the inside of the Broken Crystal.
After a Search of e-Bay, I found a 37mm Crystal from a seller with Good Feedback that should fit.
37mm Diameter Curved Crystal Crystal Cover Lid for Dial Indicator Dial Caliper | eBay
Fits Dial test indicator.
www.ebay.com
So now the question was should I attempt to Fix the Zero. I've seen people do it. And Most of the time it works. What they heck. Lady Luck Favors the Bold ...
Gotta say it was a Little Dicey. And I'm Glad I was wearing Reading Glasses when I did it because the Pointer Popped Off like a Champagne Cork right in my face. But I got it done. And Reset the Zero.
And then Bingo Bango, here it is with the New Crystal installed.
Really surprised how well things turn out. Given it is a 30 Year Old No-Name Caliper.
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Asking for opinions / comments on AGM car batteries. Never even knew they existed until I started price shopping for a replacement battery for my Honda Pilot. When I got home I googled 'them'. And consistently saw comments about them being sensitive to overcharging which can/could lead to thermal meltdown and possible explosion/fire. hmmm? Is this really a concern? A consistent positive was that they last longer.
So what's your take - stay with a conventional batt or move along to the new technology?
So what's your take - stay with a conventional batt or move along to the new technology?
If the car didn't originally come with one and your electrical demands or any electrical/electronic mods you might have made don't require one, then I see no reason to bother even looking into it, personally. If it came with one from factory then you prolly should get one regardless of how they compare to traditional batteries.
Last time I bought a battery, I bought an Advance Auto Gold label battery that had a 7 or 8 year guarantee. It crapped out at 6 or so years and they gave me a new one. Works for me. 6 years was longer than I expected a non-OEM replacement battery to last from my past experiences. That was a long time ago, though.
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agm batteries are good for extreme situations. Racing, off-roading, extreme temps, non average use stuff.
I think all the batteries are twice the price from a few years ago. I think it's the li-ion's that are the fire hazard, though I've had a couple lead acid batteries blow their top (literally) on generators at my old job, no fire, just acid. Glad I wasn't close to one an 8D size is no joke. Some say the agm's require more voltage to get a full charge than what the car puts out stock, but I ran them on my MC with no problem. Even a regular old group 24 is expensive now. Maybe I should have invested in lead. lol
I have been within hearing distance of two lead acid battery explosions. I hope I'm never that close again.
As far as charging I would recommend only a charger for AGM batteries. Personally on newer cars with their electronic drain I wouldn't use anything but a AGM, and alot of cars from 2021 and newer they come standard. Plus it handles discharge and charging much better than standard batteries because of deeper discharge cycle.
My 2017 Ford came with one and I had to replace it last year. When your car says it's time to replace it, do so. I ignored the message for about two weeks and went out one morning to a vehicle I couldn't get in to. That's when I found out the fob I received with the car wasn't the original. The emergency key inside the fob was a blank and had not been cut for the car. 
There's also a procedure you have to do to tell your car that there's a new battery and it has more charge than the car now remembers.
One thing's for sure, some of the messages we get in these newer cars sound benign, but don't ignore 'em!
One thing's for sure, some of the messages we get in these newer cars sound benign, but don't ignore 'em!
I decided to stay with an FLA battery. That’s the OEM type for my car so I’m going with the ‘internet mind’ that the cars computer and battery sensor dongle are tuned to monitoring and charging that type of battery.
I think that is a Good Call.
As another member mentioned, if that is what your car came with and you Haven't added some Monster A/V System, I don't see getting much benefit from a AGM Battery.
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BTW - Here's an Install Tip. Leave the Pos/Neg Terminal Protectors on the Posts until you have the Battery in place and Bolted Down. The way cars are today, being designed by Atari Tetris Master Champions, it can sometimes be easy to touch the Battery Posts on something metal while Jostling the Battery around.
I've accidentally left the take down lights on for an entire day (I'm rigged for security gigs). I've gone out after 8 hours, panic, then breathe a huge sigh of relief when the car starts. Granted, the take down lights are LED, but still.....
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