Tests done on purple Efest 700mAh 10.5 amp continuous discharge 18350 batteries:
Test/Review of Efest IMR18350 700mAh (Purple) 2014
Test/Review of Efest IMR18350 700mAh (Purple) 2014
best 18350 battery for sub ohm?
- Thread starter windxrunner
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Here's a question. Who even makes the 18350 for AW to begin with?
Just tossing this out there. Alotta people hate on eFest batteries. Many because of how they label/mislabel the amp rating which is totally understandable. I've also heard people complain because "all the do is rewrap other peoples batteries" and then go on to praise/recommend AW. I get that AW batteries are high quality, but AW doesn't make batteries either. Just like eFest, Orbtronic etc.. they rewrap other peoples batteries. Just saying..
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Just tossing this out there. Alotta people hate on eFest batteries. Many because of how they label/mislabel the amp rating which is totally understandable. I've also heard people complain because "all the do is rewrap other peoples batteries" and then go on to praise/recommend AW. I get that AW batteries are high quality, but AW doesn't make batteries either. Just like eFest, Orbtronic etc.. they rewrap other peoples batteries. Just saying..
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Pretty sure this is the test I found when looking them up, thanks for the link tho
If I remember correctly, the IMR chemistry was first introduced by AW in 2007 or 2008. Orbtronics/Efest/Trustfire/MNKE don't even exist back then. It took until 2011 when IMR batteries became popular in the Ecig communities. If AW doesn't make their own batteries or employ a contracted factory to make them. Why no others are selling them before.
I've also wondered about this myself. Word is that AW purchases large quantities of batteries from Panasonic and Samsung. They realize not all batteries are created equal, so they hand inspect/bench test every battery individually. Only the top tier get set aside for branding as an AW battery. This is why they cost a little more than other batteries.
This is likely the scenario for the protected ICR AW's. The batteries themselves say, "Made in China, IC and cell made in Japan".
However, the red AW IMR's only say, "Made in China". Panasonic and Samsung do not sell IMR batteries in the 14500, 18350, and 18490 size, but AW does. So, who is making these batteries?
I've come to believe that perhaps AW is actually manufacturing the AW IMR's themselves in China. Just my
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Yeah I know they mostly buy high grade cells from panny and also sammy then test them all individually to verify they meet spec before wrapping. It's just that I've wondered about their 350/490s for awhile, but no one ever knows for sure. Even Baditude is uncertain. O_O lol
Still a mystery it seems.
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Still a mystery it seems.
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I have recently been doing a hard data test on the "10.5A" Efest purple 700mah, which I have had reports from a reliable source that the cell is actually rated to withstand a constant 14A, the main reason it can withstand 14A is because at 700mah it literally does not have the time to heat up enough to degrade the internal chemistry because at 14A the entire charge from 4.20V to ~2.8V lasts...get this, 2 minutes.
So, armed with some information I decided to make a .30 ohm build on an 18350 device. Yes, .30. Now, I don't exactly recommend the average user go out and do this but these are my results. I measured temperature with an infrared thermometer, measured in the middle of the battery casing.
Efest purple 18350 700mah, .30 ohm build. Starting cell temperature(ambient) 74° F. Starting voltage 4.21v
- After 1 10 second 14A discharge: 81° F (10 seconds resting time)
- Second 10 second 14A discharge: 82° F (10 seconds resting time)
- Third 10 second 14A discharge: 85° F (10 seconds resting time)
- Fourth 10 second 14A discharge: 88° F (10 seconds resting time)
Fast forward, After 9 10 second 14A discharges the final ending temperature of the cell, 101° F(Warm to the touch) and ending voltage 3.81V. At this point I will charge the cell, when you're pushing the limits this far on a cell I don't personally recommend going near the cutoff voltage of the cell, this could end in hurting the overall life of the cell, possibly even cutting it in half. Again, these are just my own personal test and anything attempted would be at the users risk. I personally do use my 18350 device at .30 ohms just because it's possible, but I only use it at the desk where I'm able to switch out batteries at ~3.90V and charge them.
Edit: I feel it is necessary to note, the button never got warm or hot on my mod during the tests and the external casing never got hot, it got luke warm at best and I was comfortable with the overall test. At this point I honestly feel the need to qualify myself on the electrical field, I'm an industry Auto Mechanic with extensive Hybrid Engine & Battery system training(Through Cadillac and Toyota), I've gone through sufficient training to work on 200A-320A+ IMR Hybrid Cells that weigh 50-75lbs and contain 40-60 separate cells in series, I do know what I'm doing when it comes to batteries and high amp electrical loads.
So, armed with some information I decided to make a .30 ohm build on an 18350 device. Yes, .30. Now, I don't exactly recommend the average user go out and do this but these are my results. I measured temperature with an infrared thermometer, measured in the middle of the battery casing.
Efest purple 18350 700mah, .30 ohm build. Starting cell temperature(ambient) 74° F. Starting voltage 4.21v
- After 1 10 second 14A discharge: 81° F (10 seconds resting time)
- Second 10 second 14A discharge: 82° F (10 seconds resting time)
- Third 10 second 14A discharge: 85° F (10 seconds resting time)
- Fourth 10 second 14A discharge: 88° F (10 seconds resting time)
Fast forward, After 9 10 second 14A discharges the final ending temperature of the cell, 101° F(Warm to the touch) and ending voltage 3.81V. At this point I will charge the cell, when you're pushing the limits this far on a cell I don't personally recommend going near the cutoff voltage of the cell, this could end in hurting the overall life of the cell, possibly even cutting it in half. Again, these are just my own personal test and anything attempted would be at the users risk. I personally do use my 18350 device at .30 ohms just because it's possible, but I only use it at the desk where I'm able to switch out batteries at ~3.90V and charge them.
Edit: I feel it is necessary to note, the button never got warm or hot on my mod during the tests and the external casing never got hot, it got luke warm at best and I was comfortable with the overall test. At this point I honestly feel the need to qualify myself on the electrical field, I'm an industry Auto Mechanic with extensive Hybrid Engine & Battery system training(Through Cadillac and Toyota), I've gone through sufficient training to work on 200A-320A+ IMR Hybrid Cells that weigh 50-75lbs and contain 40-60 separate cells in series, I do know what I'm doing when it comes to batteries and high amp electrical loads.
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Are you sure it wasn't your mech heating up and warming the battery? EDIT never mind I kinda glossed over the last paragraph I guess I should read it thoroughly before I ask a question
Nope, and I have no plans to. The hard limits are pretty well known with AW batteries, none of their 18350 cells are rated for more than 6A if I recall correctly and in my opinion they are dated and thus inferior to the offerings by other manufacturers.
We all know Efest just re-wraps other battery cells with their information/wrapper. The Purple Efest 18350 is this cell - DAMPACCU.nl - Tensai 18350 IMR 700mAh flat top (14A) - 18350 batterij
Edit: Tensai also puts out an 1100mah 18500 with a 22A rating, they're quite impressive batteries and hope they put out a high drain 18650. For more information on Tensai, you can check out their website - Tensai International - Batteries and Chargers.
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Except the luc 4 bay charger... or so I've heard. We'll see soon enough.
Lol I w will be getting my LUC in the mail any minute now, I was deciding between that and the xtar xp4 panzer and I went reluctantly with the LUC with that post talking siht about effest ringing in my head the whole time! I have a few batteries vtcs that I'm going to try to bring back to life with it, if it doesn't in going to return it and get the xtar...
yeah my Efest 18350 10.5 amp continuous (that's right, continuous 10 and a half amps!) are the shizznat. I'd actually say that pretty much everything from Efest is awesome. There are two batteries of theirs that have misleading amp ratings on the side. The 2500mAh says 35A on it, and it's a 20A continuous battery. The 3100mAh says 20A on it, but it's a 10A continuous battery. THOUGH, they never said those numbers on the side were continuous, if you see a number and just assume it's the continuous rating from Efest that's kind of your bad. That aside, those are both great batteries and everything else I've ever seen from them is not only labeled correctly (with the continuous rating, not the pulse rating, listed on the side) but they are also awesome cells. I have never ran into anything from Efest that was horrible.
Yeah me neither I guess, I have a couple of those 350's and I've pushed them really hard n they haven't taken my face off yet, lol, kinda...
I just cannot condone the bs ratings that's streight up bs and it's a big time safety issue. But im running this LUC right now is going a normal charge on a vtc5 just fine, n faster than my i4, but I tried to revive one vtc4 and it didn't work, I could have been doing it wrong tho as there are no instructions, I'll read up and try, I have 4 batteries that I hope to bring back to life. I'll keep you posted.
I just cannot condone the bs ratings that's streight up bs and it's a big time safety issue. But im running this LUC right now is going a normal charge on a vtc5 just fine, n faster than my i4, but I tried to revive one vtc4 and it didn't work, I could have been doing it wrong tho as there are no instructions, I'll read up and try, I have 4 batteries that I hope to bring back to life. I'll keep you posted.
I do get what you're saying. I mean, I feel confident in using Efest cells, but that's only because I know what's inside them (as much as we can ever know what's inside any battery) and how low I can build with each one. But for those that do not have this knowledge, their amp ratings could be dangerous. Though, I highly doubt putting 35A through a 20A battery would ever cause any harm to the user, the mod, or the cell itself. I'm sure that the 2500mAh are totally safe to 35A when used in mods. But it's dangerous nonetheless and does nothing but make Efest look bad.
My luc came in the other day.
This will probably be waiting for me too before I get home to check them out... http://www.xtardirect.com/collections/chargers/products/xtar-vp4-charger
This will probably be waiting for me too before I get home to check them out... http://www.xtardirect.com/collections/chargers/products/xtar-vp4-charger
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