ROTFLOL -- I took your post and p.opus reply as saying you don't throw them away, and no one should have to....maybe it was the punctuation....![]()
well...
that's only logical. where's my coffee.
if that's the case, i'm extremely sorry, p.opus.
SMH

ROTFLOL -- I took your post and p.opus reply as saying you don't throw them away, and no one should have to....maybe it was the punctuation....![]()
well...
that's only logical. where's my coffee.
if that's the case, i'm extremely sorry, p.opus.
SMHi'm an idiot at times. excuse me while i go check myself out.
Exactly. If you open up a DNA and you see a standard 18650 in there with leads soldered to the battery, you don't throw out the whole mod. First of all, you know exactly what replacement battery to get, and soldering the leads onto the terminals can't be that hard.
In an MVP, it's a little different. The LiPo pouch is very generic and there is not a lot of information printed on them.. I need much more knowledge looking at the LiPo pouch and trying to find an after market equivalent.
Again, not hard (google is your friend), but not as easy as opening up the chassis and seeing an AW IMR 18650 staring you in the face.
Not hard is a relative term. Compared to swapping out a battery on a typical mod, it's 1000 times harder at least. I'm certainly not going to solder in a new battery when it looses power at the end of the day and I still want to use the device during the night. And you have to pay a ton of money for the privilege of not being able to use the device when you want. I don't get that. Fact is, most people are not going to rip their DNA device apart to change the battery themselves. Some may send it in to the manufacturer or a third party to have the battery replaced, but that an unnecessary PIA with unnecessary costs, not to mention the time wasted.
For the MVP, why can't you just take a volt meter to see what the battery is putting out? I don't see someone who is capable of taking a device apart and soldering a new battery in not being capable of running a few tests on a battery or the built in charger.
p.opus; with a little knowledge and understanding, even that's pretty simple. for example, the manufacturer tells you the specifics of the battery. 2600mah capacity, 20c discharge rate from a single cell. this relates directly to a 3.7v nominal, 5.2A 2600mah pack. then all you need to know is the physical size... which you would measure with calipers. then start at hobbyking and fastech and search the web until you find single lipo cells that match your specs.
if you can solder, you're probably good to go.
i have to ask this. and please forgive me. i have to admit there's a possibility i'm completely overlooking something. BUT; you do realize DNA devices with built in batteries also have built in charge ports, right?
assuming you do understand that, you can use your device any time you want. well, provided you have it charged enough to use it whenever you want to. all it takes is an open usb charging port.
also... if you're willing to pay $250+ for the liberty of having a mod you never have to change batteries in, you can set the wattage and takes low ohm coils while putting out high wattage, then you can certainly afford a $25 to $30 surcharge every couple years to replace the battery whether you can do it yourself or not.
p.opus; with a little knowledge and understanding, even that's pretty simple. for example, the manufacturer tells you the specifics of the battery. 2600mah capacity, 20c discharge rate from a single cell. this relates directly to a 3.7v nominal, 5.2A 2600mah pack. then all you need to know is the physical size... which you would measure with calipers. then start at hobbyking and fastech and search the web until you find single lipo cells that match your specs.
if you can solder, you're probably good to go.
i have to ask this. and please forgive me. i have to admit there's a possibility i'm completely overlooking something. BUT; you do realize DNA devices with built in batteries also have built in charge ports, right?
assuming you do understand that, you can use your device any time you want. well, provided you have it charged enough to use it whenever you want to. all it takes is an open usb charging port.
also... if you're willing to pay $250+ for the liberty of having a mod you never have to change batteries in, you can set the wattage and takes low ohm coils while putting out high wattage, then you can certainly afford a $25 to $30 surcharge every couple years to replace the battery whether you can do it yourself or not.
good points, both of you.
one thing to point out is almost all dna mods actually are easy to take apart. most are not factory assembled which means they're assembled with tools readily available to consumers and can be disassemble with those same tools. for what that's worth...
another thing is there are dna mods available (though, may be tough to get ahold of) that do offer the swap and go convenience of an 18650 tube mod. the zna and i believe the full size hana mods v3 are prime examples.
just FYI; usb charging isn't on my priority list either. i too see it as inconvenient under most circumstances. though, i am considering an mvp for myself when i start over the road trucking in the near future here. it'll likely be more convenient to plug into a car lighter on the dash than to stop the truck, go into the sleeper and get a fresh battery...
I get everything you say.
If you put a battery in backwards in a charger, it won't fry the charger.
If you put a battery in backwards on a DNA chip, you'll fry the chip. Same as with the Kick 2.
Apparently Evolv has no problems telling their customers tough ..... if they are stupid and insert the battery in wrong with their Kick.
However, a lot of mod manufacturers don't want to deal with the hassle which is why they use standard batteries with soldered leads and use the USB charging. (This does not make it a throwaway as beckdg so eloquently mentioned).
It's convenient in that you don't have to tote an extra battery around.
Yep, the reverse polarity protection is typically done with a diode. Just about every circuit I've seen in my 30 years in EE is designed that way. Simple and it works.
The zna is supposed to have reverse protection, but mine and a lot of others do not. Positive screw sits slightly higher than the Deleon insulator. I'm glad mine doesn't though. Allows me to use flat top sony batts.Blame Evolv....
If Evolv had included reverse battery protection in the DNA chipset, we would not have this issue.
It is not reasonable for a mod maker to simply put the mod in a tube and allow joe user to put in the battery backwards and fry his board.
Zen delayed the release of the ZNA for quite some time because they had to get the "physical" reverse protection just right. And even then, people complained that the ZNA required "button tops".
I do not expect a mod manufacturer to have to deal with RMA's from dolts who don't know how to insert their batteries.
So pick your poison. A manufacturer installed battery or a requirement to use button tops.
Id think anybody that has a DNA device has more than one mod, and more than one they enjoy. Its not rocket science, its called pass through. If you're looking for it to be such an inconvenience, it will be. If for some reason I go all the way home just to turn right back around and leave again, I
myself would a)bring a charger,or b)bring another mod, again I have more than one I like, or
c)vape it pass through. NOT the end of the world.
I have a VaporShark DNA30 and have had NO issues. And when the battery needs replacing, I can part with my mod(again, have others),and the measly 25 dollars to replace it. I never thought of it as such a life and death "direction" mods are taking. If people dont want a dna without 18650,and this will blow some people's minds, THEY DONT HAVE TO GET IT.
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