VTR with Protank 2 Question

[jussio]

Just bought a VTR after my vv3, never liked the box mods but it looks and feels like a brick and thinking it will last longer.

I read tons of topics about PTs, tried every opinion but still couldn't find my sweet spot that I had before. I was using 2.5 (reads 2.6 on vv3) ohm coils on itaste vv3 but then thought it would be a better taste (also warmer vape) if I use 1.8 ohms. The vv3 reads 1.8 coil as 2.0 ohm. I tried 3.5/3.7/4 V with 7/7.5/8 W but the only thing I have is cooler vape or burnt taste.

I have no idea if VTR adjust wattage when I change voltage so my questions are:

1) I bought Panasonic NCR18650A 3100 mAh..Are those "that" bad?

2) Do I need a valve because of the tight fit that may cause this burnt tastes?

3) Am I a noob on vaping still? What am I doing wrong?

Please give me a clue..



Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

 

[plastictree]

whats your pg vg for your juice?

 

[jussio]

65/35 and 50/50 pg/vg

Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

 

[plastictree]

Burnt taste is usually from the coils getting dry. More vg, thicker the juice, harder to get juice to the coil. 65/35 should be fine honestly, but if you can't tighten up your airflow at all, then try 80/20.

 

[cryptic]

I'm not a huge fan of the 1.8ohm heads. I have a hard time avoiding burnt hits with 50/50 juice. I use the 2.2s which I think are a good middle ground. I run them ~4v in the VTR with an PT2 / aero base.

 

[jussio]

Having an aero base and using 2.5 ohms solved the problem for now. I now have 2.2 ohms and will try them to see what will happen. Guess it's because of tank and coils not vtr..

Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

 

[silar]

I've got a VTR that I use exclusively now...

1. Change your batteries.. Those are protected. You really should be using unprotected batteries.. IMR's.. I use MNKE and AW IMR 18650's and haven't had any issues at all. Make sure you never buy any batteries from China. They may say 3100 MAH, but really they are around 300 MAH or so...

2. Shouldn't. I've used everything from 1.6 to 2.1 coils through an IClear30S and they all work pretty great, even used different mixes of liquid.. VG/PG - 50/50, 80,20, 100/0, etc. You may possibly have a bad tank or bad coils. Try changing over to the IClear30S or Vivi Nova. Stick with 1 flavor and Juice for a bit and see if it still happens...

3. Maybe, maybe not. I think with this ever expanding universe of vaping, no one will ever be an expert. It's either VV or VW.. Both do not work together. I keep mine around 12 watts on a 1.6 coil in the IClear 30S. Works perfect.

Do you have the V1 or V2 of the VTR? The original VTR's had a 510 connection wheel that rotates. The v2 of the VTR has the same wheel but it doesn't move. The V1 had a lot of problems making good connection with the tank and would read the ohms sporadically.

Just bought a VTR after my vv3, never liked the box mods but it looks and feels like a brick and thinking it will last longer.

I read tons of topics about PTs, tried every opinion but still couldn't find my sweet spot that I had before. I was using 2.5 (reads 2.6 on vv3) ohm coils on itaste vv3 but then thought it would be a better taste (also warmer vape) if I use 1.8 ohms. The vv3 reads 1.8 coil as 2.0 ohm. I tried 3.5/3.7/4 V with 7/7.5/8 W but the only thing I have is cooler vape or burnt taste.

I have no idea if VTR adjust wattage when I change voltage so my questions are:

1) I bought Panasonic NCR18650A 3100 mAh..Are those "that" bad?

2) Do I need a valve because of the tight fit that may cause this burnt tastes?

3) Am I a noob on vaping still? What am I doing wrong?

Please give me a clue..



Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

 

[classwife]

Moved to Variable Voltage APV Discussion from APV Discussion

 

[jussio]

I've got a VTR that I use exclusively now...

1. Change your batteries.. Those are protected. You really should be using unprotected batteries.. IMR's.. I use MNKE and AW IMR 18650's and haven't had any issues at all. Make sure you never buy any batteries from China. They may say 3100 MAH, but really they are around 300 MAH or so...

2. Shouldn't. I've used everything from 1.6 to 2.1 coils through an IClear30S and they all work pretty great, even used different mixes of liquid.. VG/PG - 50/50, 80,20, 100/0, etc. You may possibly have a bad tank or bad coils. Try changing over to the IClear30S or Vivi Nova. Stick with 1 flavor and Juice for a bit and see if it still happens...

3. Maybe, maybe not. I think with this ever expanding universe of vaping, no one will ever be an expert. It's either VV or VW.. Both do not work together. I keep mine around 12 watts on a 1.6 coil in the IClear 30S. Works perfect.

Do you have the V1 or V2 of the VTR? The original VTR's had a 510 connection wheel that rotates. The v2 of the VTR has the same wheel but it doesn't move. The V1 had a lot of problems making good connection with the tank and would read the ohms sporadically.

silar thx for your comments. On web the batteries are shown as unprotected. I am not sure if they are faulty or not but 4 hours on charger (brand new intellicharger i2) and still the second light from three is blinking on both of them. I don't know if they are good or bad but is that because they are protected?

I have vtr V2 but the bad thing about it is, it doesn't have remaining voltage option. I have to get a multimeter..

Sent from a galaxy far, far away...

 

[Ease]

Those batts are not the best choice, but will be fine on your vtr. 4 hours charging is not out of the ordinary at all, my batteries take 6+ hours. No need for a remaining voltage readout on the vtr, green above the fire button youre good, yellow is about half, red means needs charging soon.

 

[subliminalurge]

It's either VV or VW.. Both do not work together.

This is the exact opposite of a correct answer. Get on Wikipedia and read up on Ohm's Law. Volts and Watts are inexorably linked to each other. (along with ohms.)

More precisely, whether people realize it or not, watts are the number you actually care about. When someone says "I like to use an X ohm coil with Y volts", what they're really saying is "I like Z watts". They just haven't done the math.

Volts squared divided by resistance equals watts.

That's just how electricity works. There's no way around physics.

To be even more precise, in the context of e-cigs, VV and VW are the EXACT SAME THING. VW just has a more user friendly interface.

You screw a coil onto your mod. Your mod feeds it voltage. The resistance of the coil and the voltage fed into it interact, and what you end up with is watts (amount of heat produced). With a VV only mod, the volts you set interact with the resistance of the coil, and you end up with a certain wattage. VV is a very simple, inexpensive circuit to build.

What most people don't realize is that VW does the same thing, Just with a bonus. You find the watts you like, and leave it set there. When you fire it up, it reads the resistance of the coil that's attached, calculates the voltage needed to produce the watts you asked for, then provides those volts. Then you switch to another tank with some other juice, which happens to have a different resistance, and it reads that resistance, and switches the voltage for you. So in that sense, VW is nothing more than VV with some automation tacked on.

Either way, it's the watts that actually give you the "vaping experience" that you're aiming for.

(amps also come into play, but that's more of an issue to worry about when you're choosing batteries... And is only really an issue for people who like a super hot, super harsh vape....)