Why my VTR is my everday carry instead of my Provari
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I have about a dozen different mods including a VTR, 2 Provaris and a MVP2.
I agree the Provaris vape is better than the VTR. I actually prefer the MVP2 even to the Provaris. Weird, but true.
The problem is that I can't use the MVP2 at work because it has a USB port (not allowed), so I take the VTR to work.
It doesn't tip over on my desk as much as the Provaris.
I like that I can throw it into my pocket and not worry about it.
I like that my iClear 30s tanks fit perfectly and are protected.
Battery change is quickest of any mod I own.
I like the heft of it.
A great mod.
I agree the Provaris vape is better than the VTR. I actually prefer the MVP2 even to the Provaris. Weird, but true.
The problem is that I can't use the MVP2 at work because it has a USB port (not allowed), so I take the VTR to work.
It doesn't tip over on my desk as much as the Provaris.
I like that I can throw it into my pocket and not worry about it.
I like that my iClear 30s tanks fit perfectly and are protected.
Battery change is quickest of any mod I own.
I like the heft of it.
A great mod.
TONdy3, thanks for the photos I am definitely overwicked. I'm going to really dig into it over the weekend. (sorry for the off topic.)
One thing about the VTR is customer service. Make sure you save your manual it has a code if you ever need service. I think a clone aero tank caused my threads to strip and they told me to send it in and they would fix it, that was last week. I'll let you know how it goes. But I had to buy a second one, hopefully if all goes well I'll end up with two VTR's
Someone ask about Europe I assumed the Provari was European by its popularity there and name. I deal with a lot of obscure audio equipment and Europe has a different (better) means of designing circuits than China (just in general.)
You're welcome- on the wicking. Once you get the wicking and coiling down you'll do what I did- the kanger tank sits on the bottom of my box and holds the cotton for the kayfuns.
And the Provari is Proudly made right here in the USA in Washington State. They have the best customer service and follow up in the industry.
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USA built electronics now days are rare and generally top notch. Every now and then you can feel a little buzz with the VTR, that's the switch mod power suppply, it works to lower/control voltage/power by flickering at very high speeds. The Provari feels like a discrete linear power supply to me, just conjecture as I'm not about to open my used bought warrantless Provari.
This is part of the reason people like mechanicals IMHO, there is no regulation just pure unadalturated smooth battery power.
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"just conjecture as I'm not about my used bought warrantless Provari"
Forgive me I've literally been up for 50 hours at this point.
And from what I've seem- provari runs at a higher frequency than almost everything else out
There; hoping when the new model comes out it's even faster.
I think the VTR is a at 48hz if I'm not mistaken. The MVP is at 740 and the Provari is in excess of 800. Pretty see I have those all in the ballpark. Lol
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This is great info where do you find such facts, tribal knowledge or is there a thread I missed?
My first device coming from egos was a VTR. I used it for a while then moved on to a Provari with a Russian. I take my Provari every where I go. Once you get building a Kayfun or Russian down you will love the Vape and flavor. I have a few of each and a Taifun GT. All of these types of RBAs are awesome.
VTRs are great but to me the Provari surpasses it in performance. I wouldn't sale either though. They both have their place in my Vape arsenal-and I have quite a few setups.
VTRs are great but to me the Provari surpasses it in performance. I wouldn't sale either though. They both have their place in my Vape arsenal-and I have quite a few setups.
I don't notice it on the VTR much but both my Innokin's have a loud button buzz. I can't hear it on my eVics and Vamos unless I get really close to my V2 button. I can hear the SVD with it not even to my mouth.
I don't think mechs are smooth. I think they're constantly changing battery power. 4.2v - 3.2v is too wide of a swing and I'm always going from too much to too little.
That's why I like consistent powered VV/VWs or even regulated eGos. When one of them gets too low to boost it to where I want it I recharge. Some of them are set low enough that's not an issue, with others I don't get about 10% of the battery power.
I spent 23 years as a chef so I have a really sensitive palette. The first time I tried a mod (non-ego or cigalike) was km a zmax 33.3 hz device and everything tasted burnt. Then switched to the MVP- it was good again. Since ten I've paid attention to frequency because of the way pulse width modulation works.
It's heating up coil at 33.3 times per period to average to your setting. So if you have it set at 4 it's going from 0-8 an average of 4. Where as a provari makes they've so fast it looks like a straight line on the oscilloscope a 33 hz chip looks like a heartbeat.
I get allot of info from www.tasteyourjuice.com
His reviews are great- very picky but he also hooks the mods up to the oscope so you can see what I'm talking about here
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What you're hearing like a buzzing noise is that pulse width modulation. It's doing just what yore thinking it's changing the voltage to create an average of what you set it at. The egos are gradually dropping the voltage during the day.
The MVP and the VV3 have the highest frq of the innokin products- this is why I bought the MVP- it's only a little but lower than the provari- the highest. The VTR is has a lower freq than the MVP but it's high enough to not make that sound and not be noticeable- again my opinion. I'm fact I was about to get one last weak from my friends shop but he sold it before I could get there- we might. It be friends no more. As for the mechs I'll be honest - I'm just starting to get into those. I'm an electrical engineer by education; I'm naturally drawn to all this nerdy stuff. But the mechs start out at 4.1 v when they come off the charger and will just lose voltage till they won't fire anymore so theoretically they just get less powerful till you change battery. I haven't noticed anything pronounced yet; but, I've only had the mech for 2 days now to taste my DIY juice the rest of the time I'm between the MVP and provari.
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Ya, I just started on Mechs myself 'cause of the drop off.. I'm really enjoying the MVP and VAMO w/stacked 350's. I dont get the rattlesnake from the VAMO either.
The vamo is one I didn't look into, I saw it at the storefront when I first started and the MVP was cheaper. And really when I got that it was my last attempt at vaping vs smoking. I think the juice flavor effect is juice dependent. I've noticed the creams and tobaccos seem to be more sensitive to different factors than a lot of other things.
I am really digging the mech; more than I thought I would.
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SVD and VTR.
I know all about PWM. Don't care. It all works for me.
Except it's not creating an average of 0-8 for 4. It's pulsing 6v on and off for different lengths of time to be equal to the setting.
I was just commenting on how loud the buzz is with the Innokin's at the button. Whenever I saw someone talking about the rattlesnake they let you hear the coil, which is where I've heard it on Vamo before. After hearing it on SVD I listened really close to the Vamo button and heard it but it's nowhere near as loud as Innokin.
My eGos are regulated to 3.4v I think (I haven't paid attention to them in a long time), they don't lose voltage until they're almost dead anyway. Unless you put them in unregulated mode, then they lose voltage exactly like a mech. Naturally I don't use that mode.
They buck but don't boost (except the Twist), I'm not one to cry over .2v between regulated voltage and shut off voltage.
A full volt with a mech is an issue especially when you consider the wick is more caked the lower the power gets. There's just no way to get around the discharge of a mech short of a Kick.
.2 is good! I had 1100 mah egos that were noticeably dropping off after an hour. I've never heard the the rattlesnake from the VTR. Or tasted anything; which could be the juice. My juice preference has changed a lot since I was mod shopping.
Someone told me the exact opposite about kicking a mech. I ordered one off the fasttech yesterday to see how it does. Does a kick work like a regulated mod; where if the battery can't deliver the setting it won't fire?
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1100mah isn't Joyetech, that's why.
As far as I know a Kick is buck/boost, turns a mech into a VW. Sigelei has all the protections. $9.07 Authentic Sigelei Variable Wattage Kick Module for Mechanical Mod - 5-15W at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
My kick2 from evolv didn't come with any documentation, just a little square see through plastic box with the kick inside.
Here are a couple of examples of my VTR setup without modding the VTR.
First if you are NOT comfortable with the mechanics of taking apart your VTR please do not try any of this.
The SS screws are very tiny and I have no idea where to get replacements or how to repair the threads if cross threaded.
I do not have the link but there is a thread on ECF where the guy has pictures of taking one apart. All of the parts listed are from Fasttech but I am sure similar devices can be found elsewhere.
I chose not to mod my VTR (by sanding or removing the ring) so......
Using a T6 torx: WLXY WL2013-T6 Torx Precision Screwdriver
WL2013-T6, Torx T6 / SKU: 1205006 $2.48
1. I remove the 2 SS screws fron the top of the VTR.
2. Also remove the 2 SS screws on the side close to the top button (carefull these are VERY tiny.)
3. With a little bit of wiggling the top section of the VTR will lift up, be carefull not to lift to high or quickly as there is a small wire attached which may tear. You only need to lift it about 1/4in.
For a Genny experience I have used:
Steam Turbine Genesis Style Rebuildable Atomizer (3.0mL)
Stainless Steel / SKU: 1479600 $12.93
But I did get some leaking from sitting with it in my back pocket when out and about.
I do like the Kayfun experience for the vape quality and no leaking in my pocket so now I am using:
Kayfun Lite Styled Rebuildable Atomizer (4.5mL) converted to a nano;
Kayfun Lite, PMMA / SKU: 1651401 $12.87
Kayfun Nano Body Kit
Kayfun Nano Kit, Stainless Steel (3 Pieces) / SKU: 1649900 $5.19
Replacement Tank Section for Kayfun 3.1 / Kayfun Lite
Tank Section, Blue / SKU: 1644301 $1.18
I did have issues with the top piece where the drip tip goes into. the small chimney tube did not go into it far enough to screw down all the way so I used the one from...
Spare Parts for Kayfun v3.1 Atomizer
Spare Parts, PMMA(for Kayfun v3.1) / SKU: 1570900 $5.12
After installing the RBA into the 510 simply re-position the VTR top back ( it should sit in the same place it came from with very little effort) and screw it together, the screws should turn in easily and only feel tight when seated all the way in. Do not crank on them they only should be snug so they do not come out by themselves.
I recomend doing this part on a large table so when you drop a screw you can find it!
First if you are NOT comfortable with the mechanics of taking apart your VTR please do not try any of this.
The SS screws are very tiny and I have no idea where to get replacements or how to repair the threads if cross threaded.
I do not have the link but there is a thread on ECF where the guy has pictures of taking one apart. All of the parts listed are from Fasttech but I am sure similar devices can be found elsewhere.
I chose not to mod my VTR (by sanding or removing the ring) so......
Using a T6 torx: WLXY WL2013-T6 Torx Precision Screwdriver
WL2013-T6, Torx T6 / SKU: 1205006 $2.48
1. I remove the 2 SS screws fron the top of the VTR.
2. Also remove the 2 SS screws on the side close to the top button (carefull these are VERY tiny.)
3. With a little bit of wiggling the top section of the VTR will lift up, be carefull not to lift to high or quickly as there is a small wire attached which may tear. You only need to lift it about 1/4in.
For a Genny experience I have used:
Steam Turbine Genesis Style Rebuildable Atomizer (3.0mL)
Stainless Steel / SKU: 1479600 $12.93
But I did get some leaking from sitting with it in my back pocket when out and about.
I do like the Kayfun experience for the vape quality and no leaking in my pocket so now I am using:
Kayfun Lite Styled Rebuildable Atomizer (4.5mL) converted to a nano;
Kayfun Lite, PMMA / SKU: 1651401 $12.87
Kayfun Nano Body Kit
Kayfun Nano Kit, Stainless Steel (3 Pieces) / SKU: 1649900 $5.19
Replacement Tank Section for Kayfun 3.1 / Kayfun Lite
Tank Section, Blue / SKU: 1644301 $1.18
I did have issues with the top piece where the drip tip goes into. the small chimney tube did not go into it far enough to screw down all the way so I used the one from...
Spare Parts for Kayfun v3.1 Atomizer
Spare Parts, PMMA(for Kayfun v3.1) / SKU: 1570900 $5.12
After installing the RBA into the 510 simply re-position the VTR top back ( it should sit in the same place it came from with very little effort) and screw it together, the screws should turn in easily and only feel tight when seated all the way in. Do not crank on them they only should be snug so they do not come out by themselves.
I recomend doing this part on a large table so when you drop a screw you can find it!
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