Ok, so I decided to try and build one of these battery box mods. I went to one Radio Shack, nothing for a do-it-your-self'er but soldering irons and multimeters. The rest was all cellphones and accessories.
So I went to another RS store and nestled way in the back left corner was a small selection of parts and a tall draftsman style filing cabinet. While I'm poking around, seeing if I can even get some of the parts locally, I'm approached by a tall skinny kid with braces and round glasses who looked like Harry Potter. Harry spoke with a bit of a lisp (perhaps the braces were new) asking if he could help me.
I explained I was trying to make a battery box, and looking for parts. Harry asks how many batteries and, without even looking, Harry reaches into a seemingly random drawer in the draftsman cabinet, and pulls out the 2 AA battery holder as if plucking a rabbit from a hat. Next were the two switches, a slide switch for a saftey cut-off and a momentary switch to activate my experiment. If I had blinked, I would have missed it. He may have even just conjured them out of thin air for all I know, but there they were in my hands. The green LED's were next, with a micro potentiometer to act as a resistor ('cause neither Harry nor I knew what kind of resistor to, well, resist the amperage or voltage, or however you measure the speed of these electrons).
The only thing we couldn't figure out was the connector for my 801 attomizer. Mr. Potter politely asked if I could explain the purpose of my mysterious device, and I offered to demonstrate. At this point, we were both squatted down low to the floor hunting for the elusive connector. I drew a primer puff, then a good sized plume of vapor. Harry sprung back from the mysterious myst so fast he lost his balance and wound up in an undified position. When he recovered his composure, he was impressed by the ingenuity of my vaporizer.
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So, here's my parts list and a few questions for the experts. I told Harry this is for a 3 - 5 volt battery, opperating at 1 amp. I just based that on my question about using an iPhone wall charger for a USB passthrough source. I'm just guessing. How far off base was I?
270-408 $1.69 "2 AA battery holder"
This was the easy part.
275-0646 $2.49 "SPST Momentary pushbutton switch"
Rated 3A at 125 VAC, 1.5A at 250VAC. Pretty easy guess I think.
275-409 $2.69 "SPDT Submini slide switch"
Rated 3A 125 VAC
This is evidently a "double throw" so it has three leeds - which leeds to solder to?
276-0069 $2.49 "Subminiature green LED assembly"
Rated 2.1V, 20mA
So I want a little bling, er, indicator.
271-0284 $1.49 "100K-Ohm Micro-Size potentiometer"
Rated 50VDC - 0.1 WATTS
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Questions:
The slide switch - There are three pins, how do I know which pins to solder to? I'm guessing the center for the positive, and it doesn't really matter which of the outside ones.
We figured to use the 100k-Ohm potentiometer, because we didn't know what resister to use. Was this a mistake? Also, which way to I turn it to start at the lowest power level? Counter clockwise? I figure I'll just start turing it up, until the LED glows and that must be the right resistance. I don't want to burn the sucker out; good thing it's a two pack.
My plan is to create two parallel circuits.
Posotive from the battery, to the kill switch, to the momentary switch, to the center of the atty, ouside of the atty to the negative of the battery.
The second circuit (run in parallel) from the battery to the kill switch to the momentary switch, to the potentiometer to the LED and back to the negative pole on the battery.
Could I make a third circuit just to indicate the kill switch is enganged? Positive battery to kill switch to pot to led and back to negative battery?
Does any of this even make sence?
Any suggestions are more then welcome. Do I need to exchange any of these parts or did I get the ratings right?
Still need to work out the connector for the attomizer and find the battery & charger.
So I went to another RS store and nestled way in the back left corner was a small selection of parts and a tall draftsman style filing cabinet. While I'm poking around, seeing if I can even get some of the parts locally, I'm approached by a tall skinny kid with braces and round glasses who looked like Harry Potter. Harry spoke with a bit of a lisp (perhaps the braces were new) asking if he could help me.
I explained I was trying to make a battery box, and looking for parts. Harry asks how many batteries and, without even looking, Harry reaches into a seemingly random drawer in the draftsman cabinet, and pulls out the 2 AA battery holder as if plucking a rabbit from a hat. Next were the two switches, a slide switch for a saftey cut-off and a momentary switch to activate my experiment. If I had blinked, I would have missed it. He may have even just conjured them out of thin air for all I know, but there they were in my hands. The green LED's were next, with a micro potentiometer to act as a resistor ('cause neither Harry nor I knew what kind of resistor to, well, resist the amperage or voltage, or however you measure the speed of these electrons).
The only thing we couldn't figure out was the connector for my 801 attomizer. Mr. Potter politely asked if I could explain the purpose of my mysterious device, and I offered to demonstrate. At this point, we were both squatted down low to the floor hunting for the elusive connector. I drew a primer puff, then a good sized plume of vapor. Harry sprung back from the mysterious myst so fast he lost his balance and wound up in an undified position. When he recovered his composure, he was impressed by the ingenuity of my vaporizer.
-----------------------------------------------------
So, here's my parts list and a few questions for the experts. I told Harry this is for a 3 - 5 volt battery, opperating at 1 amp. I just based that on my question about using an iPhone wall charger for a USB passthrough source. I'm just guessing. How far off base was I?
270-408 $1.69 "2 AA battery holder"
This was the easy part.
275-0646 $2.49 "SPST Momentary pushbutton switch"
Rated 3A at 125 VAC, 1.5A at 250VAC. Pretty easy guess I think.
275-409 $2.69 "SPDT Submini slide switch"
Rated 3A 125 VAC
This is evidently a "double throw" so it has three leeds - which leeds to solder to?
276-0069 $2.49 "Subminiature green LED assembly"
Rated 2.1V, 20mA
So I want a little bling, er, indicator.
271-0284 $1.49 "100K-Ohm Micro-Size potentiometer"
Rated 50VDC - 0.1 WATTS
---------------------------------------------------------------
Questions:
The slide switch - There are three pins, how do I know which pins to solder to? I'm guessing the center for the positive, and it doesn't really matter which of the outside ones.
We figured to use the 100k-Ohm potentiometer, because we didn't know what resister to use. Was this a mistake? Also, which way to I turn it to start at the lowest power level? Counter clockwise? I figure I'll just start turing it up, until the LED glows and that must be the right resistance. I don't want to burn the sucker out; good thing it's a two pack.
My plan is to create two parallel circuits.
Posotive from the battery, to the kill switch, to the momentary switch, to the center of the atty, ouside of the atty to the negative of the battery.
The second circuit (run in parallel) from the battery to the kill switch to the momentary switch, to the potentiometer to the LED and back to the negative pole on the battery.
Could I make a third circuit just to indicate the kill switch is enganged? Positive battery to kill switch to pot to led and back to negative battery?
Does any of this even make sence?
Any suggestions are more then welcome. Do I need to exchange any of these parts or did I get the ratings right?
Still need to work out the connector for the attomizer and find the battery & charger.
