Use of 'standard' heat shrink tubing in tanks
- Thread starter TomCatt
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Me? Huh uh, I'm just a copy-catt 
.Was working on rebuilding CE2s with SS tubing posts. I noticed that my clear DIY eliquid was darkening a lot after using it for just a day (with a out-of-the-box CE2, no change in color of the eliquid). I was wondering if the bare SS conductors were degrading the eliquid and would like to insulate them to see if that helps. I have plenty of the 'standard' heat shrink tubing and didn't want to order teflon heat shrink if I could just use the standard.
And the Modder's Dilemma continues ... 'Where can I get ...'
Good luck in your search Shengjie!
Good luck in your search Shengjie!
I got heat shrink tubing from radio shack and it worked... I was worried about it leaving some sort of taste but didn't notice any difference and my tank looks a lot more clean.
I know this thread is a little old but I was watching a video from Steeljan on modding an ego humungomizer and was wondering about the... toxicity? of using the heat shrink in contact with the e-liquid. Maybe it could degrade the heat shrink?
Anyone had any thoughts on that in the last month or so?
Anyone had any thoughts on that in the last month or so?
Thanks for bumping this Tarnacc!
I still haven't found anything definitive about this. The CE2s have a piece of black heat shrink holding the ceramic cup to the air tube; but it would be nice to know if anyone has any specific information on the "food safeness" of 'regular' heat shrink tubing.
I still haven't found anything definitive about this. The CE2s have a piece of black heat shrink holding the ceramic cup to the air tube; but it would be nice to know if anyone has any specific information on the "food safeness" of 'regular' heat shrink tubing.
There is teflon heat shrink, which would be 'food safe'.
Zeus PTFE (Teflon) Heat Shrink Tubing, 24 Gauge, 0.006" Wall, Shrink Rat 2:1 48" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Zeus PTFE (Teflon) Heat Shrink Tubing, 24 Gauge, 0.006" Wall, Shrink Rat 2:1 48" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
You might also consider this... FEP Heat Shrink Tubing
It is supposed to Very Chemicayl Stable and is supposed to be Cheaper than PTFE
Fluorinated ethylene propylene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Medical Grade Tubing - ICO RALLY / ESCO Components
It is supposed to Very Chemicayl Stable and is supposed to be Cheaper than PTFE
Fluorinated ethylene propylene - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Medical Grade Tubing - ICO RALLY / ESCO Components
Was working on rebuilding CE2s with SS tubing posts. I noticed that my clear DIY eliquid was darkening a lot after using it for just a day (with a out-of-the-box CE2, no change in color of the eliquid). I was wondering if the bare SS conductors were degrading the eliquid and would like to insulate them to see if that helps. I have plenty of the 'standard' heat shrink tubing and didn't want to order teflon heat shrink if I could just use the standard.
TC...its probably not the SS thats causing the color change...its condensate/vapor byproducts getting back in to the tank. If you have a well sealed tank to coil chamber setup...it can even transfer via the wick through heat expansion and contraction. Do you carry it in your pocket or let it in the sun? Your pocket can heat the liquid pushing it up the wick...when it cools everything in the chamber gets sucked back into the tank. The trick is to have the two chambers sealed but still have a way to equalize pressure without transferring liquid...like a pinhole or something. You still wont eliminate it completely...thats why I make my tanks hold about 3ml max. By the time the 3ml's get used up its just starting to discolor the liquid in the tank.
Hey nico,
I've been using clearomizers without any top seals in for quite a while now. With a stock clearo after a few days of just refilling, the juice would have a slight color (from overheated juice). I switched about a month or so ago to rewicking my clearos with cotton; as long as the wick is set up to match the coil, I've gone over a week with no color developing. I've tried my rebuilt clearos with a good cotton wick and still have the juice coloring after a day of vaping. This leads me to believe that it is the exposed SS conductors.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
I've been using clearomizers without any top seals in for quite a while now. With a stock clearo after a few days of just refilling, the juice would have a slight color (from overheated juice). I switched about a month or so ago to rewicking my clearos with cotton; as long as the wick is set up to match the coil, I've gone over a week with no color developing. I've tried my rebuilt clearos with a good cotton wick and still have the juice coloring after a day of vaping. This leads me to believe that it is the exposed SS conductors.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Lead free solder was used.
Just popped one of the rebuilt clearos on my PV without the tube on. Fired it up with my finger on one of the SS posts - that thing got hot after a couple of seconds. I usually draw a good 3or 4 second vape, at least.
So that seems to be it. That was one with 27 awg tubing, I think. I made one with 24 awg SS wire and was still getting colored juice.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Just popped one of the rebuilt clearos on my PV without the tube on. Fired it up with my finger on one of the SS posts - that thing got hot after a couple of seconds. I usually draw a good 3or 4 second vape, at least.
So that seems to be it. That was one with 27 awg tubing, I think. I made one with 24 awg SS wire and was still getting colored juice.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
I'm not a high wattage vaper. The above test was at 4.4v with a 3.4 ohm coil
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
So your lead wires are boiling the tank juice? Have you checked for any high resistance at the solder joint?
I havent kept up with the store bought stuff since I have only used my homemade atty for the past couple years...so I cant visualize your setup...but they all work on pretty much the same principal. I know some liquids just turn dark faster than others too.
I havent kept up with the store bought stuff since I have only used my homemade atty for the past couple years...so I cant visualize your setup...but they all work on pretty much the same principal. I know some liquids just turn dark faster than others too.
. I don't think it's boiling the juice, just localized heating next to the SS posts, which most likely leads to 'premature aging' of the juice. After a couple of hundred ~2sec hits of localized heating over the course of a day, all of the juice in the clearo has been exposed to high temps. And with no seals in the clearo, any well oxygenated condensation is going right back into the juice, making it well oxygenated - heat +O2 = aged colored juice.These are CE2 clearomizers in which the wires have been replaced with either 27 gauge SS tubing or 24 gauge SS wire. The SS posts run up into the ceramic cup through the wire holes and are bent over the edge of the cup to form hooks to attach your coil to.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
These are CE2 clearomizers in which the wires have been replaced with either 27 gauge SS tubing or 24 gauge SS wire. The SS posts run up into the ceramic cup through the wire holes and are bent over the edge of the cup to form hooks to attach your coil to.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Oxidation could be doing it.
Not so much as it will help with the Darkening e-Liquid but just because I'm curious to see what your CE2 looks like, is there a chance you could post a picture of one of your rebuilt CE2's if you have some spare time?
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
