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Oh no.... no! Not another tactile switch endorsement from a trusted source without using a MOSFET. Oh no! 
Say it aint so!
I'll be back with some info on what I mean asap..... gotta play the bad guy here I guess..... but there's just some things that new people should be aware of about tactile switches not lasting long, vaping poorly and very possibly even ruining your atomizers.
Will post for anyone interested. Stay tuned.
Say it aint so!
I'll be back with some info on what I mean asap..... gotta play the bad guy here I guess..... but there's just some things that new people should be aware of about tactile switches not lasting long, vaping poorly and very possibly even ruining your atomizers.
Will post for anyone interested. Stay tuned.
Sorry to seem like a party pooper here but I cannot not post about this because I've learned the hard way and searching for the info can take a lot of time. So here's some research material for those interested.
I come with links and hopefully a solution. Which took me a long time to search and gather through various e-cig forums and electronics how-tos and personal experience in the past.
You can build this mod, no problem, just kind of keep in mind what to recognize.
Tactile switches will not last.... nor will they put out the power you will need to run an atomizer for very long. The small switches that come in the factory made electronic cigarettes have a special arrangement with a PCB and MOSFET (metal oxide field effect transistor) that are created so the switch will handle the proper amperage through the small switches on these devices.
Tactile switches can ruin your atomizers also before you realize what is going on. But..... never just take one persons word as truth here in this forum.
dedmonwakin quote:
Helpful threads:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-these-good-tactile-switch-2.html#post569485
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/5737-attn-modders-very-careful.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...re-worries-batt-connectors-21.html#post730080
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/29920-tactile-switch-questions.html
MOSFET most recomended it seems:
Digi-Key - IRLU3114ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRLU3114ZPBF)
I'm going to be posting my Nico-Drip V1 in the near future and will cover tactile switches and this MOSFET in more detail.
BUT.... !...... thank you Highping for posting a how-to! There is really no reason that anyone who wants to make one should not do so. I just wanted anyone who does to be aware and know what to look out for... especially those new to modding. Trying to educate and save people all the time I had to invest to learn. These links were links I have saved from my research.
Personally..... I think MadVapes or anyone else selling these to e-cig modders should post a detailed disclaimer.
I come with links and hopefully a solution. Which took me a long time to search and gather through various e-cig forums and electronics how-tos and personal experience in the past.
You can build this mod, no problem, just kind of keep in mind what to recognize.
Tactile switches will not last.... nor will they put out the power you will need to run an atomizer for very long. The small switches that come in the factory made electronic cigarettes have a special arrangement with a PCB and MOSFET (metal oxide field effect transistor) that are created so the switch will handle the proper amperage through the small switches on these devices.
Tactile switches can ruin your atomizers also before you realize what is going on. But..... never just take one persons word as truth here in this forum.
dedmonwakin quote:
Helpful threads:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-these-good-tactile-switch-2.html#post569485
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/5737-attn-modders-very-careful.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...re-worries-batt-connectors-21.html#post730080
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/29920-tactile-switch-questions.html
MOSFET most recomended it seems:
Digi-Key - IRLU3114ZPBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRLU3114ZPBF)
I'm going to be posting my Nico-Drip V1 in the near future and will cover tactile switches and this MOSFET in more detail.
BUT.... !...... thank you Highping for posting a how-to! There is really no reason that anyone who wants to make one should not do so. I just wanted anyone who does to be aware and know what to look out for... especially those new to modding. Trying to educate and save people all the time I had to invest to learn. These links were links I have saved from my research.
Personally..... I think MadVapes or anyone else selling these to e-cig modders should post a detailed disclaimer.
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Kinda defeats the whole purpose of using a small switch, if this is the case. No room for a bigger switch and no roon for a MOSFET, what to do??
I'll have to go back and look at this one again.... but there is room for a MOSFET in a 2 "AA" box. Just very tricky to get it in there.
Tonight I will be posting my 5Volt Nico-Drip and you'll see how the little DigiKey MOSFET I listed above could be fit the same way. Only in the 5 volt I used a much larger LDO from MadVapes (to bring the voltage proper)
Here is a video representation of what happened with my first Nico-Drip and a tactile switch that WillyB tried to warn me about....... I happened to catch the whole thing on tape!
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn150/dreams_n_chains/Animation1.gif
(DISCLAIMER: The above link will take you to an animated GIF that is only a spoof/comedy and is otherwise really useless at this point! Aside from my weird sense of humor.)
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Glad you put all that info in one place Dreams. But, I and many others have been using 0.5 amp switches for over a year with no problems. I understand your point and anyone wanting to build should be aware. I just haven't even had to replace one yet.
btw Dreams, - that needle bottle is in "her" avatar. I'll post those pics one of these days. Yardwork.
btw Dreams, - that needle bottle is in "her" avatar. I'll post those pics one of these days. Yardwork.
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Glad you put all that info in one place Dreams. But, I and many others have been using 0.5 amp switches for over a year with no problems. I understand your point and anyone wanting to build should be aware. I just haven't even had to replace one yet.
btw Dreams, - that needle bottle is in "her" avatar. I'll post those pics one of these days. Yardwork.
42109 is a her?! OMG that is too funny considering what I was just joking about with some others last night in another thread! (not about 42109 but about myself) Cool!
On the contrary regarding the tactile switches, I've had too many die. Ones just like the one listed. I won't use another without a MOSFET. I would never rely on a mod that had only a tact switch without a MOSFET. (i.e. go to work or leave home.)
Either way, like you said, at least people are aware and know what to look for. A clear conscience would not let me not say something. Not my intention to change the thread. On with the show!
I use a 12mm X12mm all the time too. In fact it was the same one in my Natulis by Shreck, I love this little switch. Just too big for this mod.
I am hoping someone can share how to build a 18650 version of this. Asking too much? =/
Just find a box that fits. Someone did one in an 18650 Trustfire battery carrier. I think it was Highping.... You might want to look for that.
Thanks for the heads up 42109, I will look into that. May seem like an obvious question but does anyone know how well the LR atties hold up to bottom feeding?
I did one with the 2C batty box, it's my favorite mod! It's a little bigger but the high drain battys with the LR attys are perfect for me! Mines not a bottom feeder tho, I just got 2 new boxes in to try it with.
Where'd you get a 2 c cell box??? Got a link??
Here is the link for the 2xc cell box....what I can't understand is how to get the brass tube through the center piece of the atty connector.....maybe I missed something but I can barely fit a small (small being I can just see light through it) piece of wire in that thing......MAKE ME UNDERSTAND!!!
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Read the rest of the thread. Highping covers using the tubing as the center connector.
I could have sworn I read it all but I guess not. It is a little confusing because on of his pics shows what looks to me as a brass tube going through the center part of a connector. anyway I see now. Thanks!
OK Got one built,(ugly but functional) HP How do you get air flow?? After pluging back of battery conector and putty ing on the cap, I get very little air flow thru the cart. (using 510 cartomizer on this one. Even drilled a hole in the cart ???
What did I miss??
OK Got one built,(ugly but functional) HP How do you get air flow?? After pluging back of battery conector and putty ing on the cap, I get very little air flow thru the cart. (using 510 cartomizer on this one. Even drilled a hole in the cart ???
What did I miss??
I don't think this will work well with a carto. The cartos need to have airflow through the main hole in the center connector. With 510 atty, you can plug up the main hole and still get plenty of flow through the two holes in the threads. Put an atty on it and give it another try.
GRRRrrrr Oh Well... Got the parts coming to build another one er two but no atty's.. have ta get sum I guess (sigh)
PS Did learn some things tho.. It'l be easier the next time :>)
Just ordered a low rs atty from litsig we'll see
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