when i used to use adapters on my devices and they came unscrewed with the tank i used to take a rubberband and wrap it around the 510 threads of the adapter just 1-2 times and then unscrew it with my fingers gives that just a fraction of a better grip and leverage needed most of the time still kept 2-3 adapters on hand just in case
T3S Question
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when i used to use adapters on my devices and they came unscrewed with the tank i used to take a rubberband and wrap it around the 510 threads of the adapter just 1-2 times and then unscrew it with my fingers gives that just a fraction of a better grip and leverage needed most of the time still kept 2-3 adapters on hand just in case
The coil head that was giving me all the trouble was the coil head that came installed in the T3S. I did buy some T3S replacement heads and once I put one of them in it was fine. The gap was gone and I now longer need to tighten it down hard. I knew about all of the different heads that are out there nowadays that look alike. The Smok Aro's also use coil heads that look like the Kanger coil heads but they are different also. What was throwing me for a loop is that the head that came installed actually worked if I tightened it down real tight, even though there was a gap between the base and the tank. Usually the wrong coil head doesn't even fire, no matter how hard you screw it down. I'm not sure if it was the wrong head or a defective head to be honest but at this point I'm just glad I figured out the problem.
Not a bad idea. I'll give that a shot next time I have that problem.
That space and sepperation from base to the tank bottom collar is due to installation of the wrong head. The T3S hip of its base, the section that mates with the flange at the bottom of the coil head is narrower than Protank and Evod coil head, it is very hard to distinguish and a lot of vendors sell both, a lot of times selling the wrong head, or they think that all Kanger coil heads are the same. A proper T3S coil head when mounted onto the base the flange at the bottom should be flush and even with the top of the T3S base. If the flange overhangs the top of the base by any margin, the base and head when assembled will not seat fully into the T3S tank bottom collar giving you what is in the picture you posted.
On to the issue of the coil not firing, crxess answered it properly, get you PV pin pulled back up, or method I use, gently and carefully wiggle the T3S connection pin out just a bit, seat the tank and let that seat the T3S pin to where it needs to be. Air draw, again crxess is right, a 510 to Ego adapter with a hollow center pin works best, another thing is you can increase the size of one of the airholes on the T3S base, I enlarge at least 1 to 1/16th inch, if that doesn't help, then I'd drill a hole into the top of your 510 to Ego adapter, above the Ego threads through the Female 510 threading section.
Yeah, I'm thinking it was the wrong head and not a defective head that was installed in the T3S when I got it. I talked to Eric at discountvapers where I purchased the T3S and replacement heads and I explained the whole situation in detail but all he did was totally disagree with everything that I said and acted like I was trying to get something for nothing when in reality, all I wanted was some help figuring out the problem and maybe an apology once I actually figured out the problem but all he did was insist that if it fired then it was not the wrong head or defective. I'm extremely unhappy with his reaction to this issue and I definitely wont be buying anything from discountvaper again. Its too bad because they have a large selection with good prices but I'd rather spend a few more bucks and know that I'm getting quality customer service.
If it was the right head - the diameter of the flat washer was correct - the other possibility causing a fit problem is the vent tube on top of the coil not being fully in place. Depending on the particular coil assembly, some vent tubes go into place easier than others. When I replace a vent tube on a coil I always check to make sure it's fully seated all the way down. Then I sit the coil down, upright, to check. Some times the vent tube looks installed right in hand, but when you stand it up and look it will show it's slightly crooked. That could also explain a gapping problem like you had.
In general screwing stuff really hard onto your 510 connector is a really bad idea. The Kanger stuff doesn't have a wide amount of tolerance in the difference between a fully screwed in coil and a "not so much." Whenever you have an electrical connection problem the first thing to try is removing the base, backing the coil off a bit, and then firmly screwing it back into the base. That solves many cases of a not firing problem.
In general screwing stuff really hard onto your 510 connector is a really bad idea. The Kanger stuff doesn't have a wide amount of tolerance in the difference between a fully screwed in coil and a "not so much." Whenever you have an electrical connection problem the first thing to try is removing the base, backing the coil off a bit, and then firmly screwing it back into the base. That solves many cases of a not firing problem.
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