Sticking Switch - Protege

[SuSiN]

Got my Protege Monday p.m., 510 Dura. Love the small size, large battery capacity, and build quality. Just today, noon, the switch started staying on. Took it apart and could find nothing that may be causing the problem.
Cleaned the switch mechanical components with a small brush and WD40 and wiped it dry. Still sticks, have to tap on the switch or unscrew the atomizer to get it to turn off.

 

[Casey@PS]

Loosen the adapter- when it's too tight, the button will stick.

 

[SuSiN]

Lossening the adapter didn't work, it still sticks. I removed the button and put it back together and it still sticks. Looks like the micro switch is the problem.

 

[Casey@PS]

Shoot me a ticket, and we'll get a repair set up.

 

[SuSiN]

Will do. Just removed the mechanical portion of the switch and it still sticks. Thanxs ...

 

[nubee]

Wondering, since I'm sort of an old timer fixer upper, is the sticking a possible lubrication type thing with light oil and/or silicon spray or is there a true physical obstruction?

I realize without a full dissection might not be possible but knowing the original design and construction should lend a clue on that.

 

[lotus14]

Wondering, since I'm sort of an old timer fixer upper, is the sticking a possible lubrication type thing with light oil and/or silicon spray or is there a true physical obstruction?

I realize without a full dissection might not be possible but knowing the original design and construction should lend a clue on that.

Wondering the same. Seems like a lot of sticky switches around here.

Hope I don't have that problem with mine when it get here (tomorrow???), but if I do have trouble at some point it would be great to lube it instead having to send it back.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

Wondering the same. Seems like a lot of sticky switches around here.

Not really lotus ... What, 400-425 have gone out over the past week ... A couple switch malfunctions we expect ... Nothin you can do when it comes to a mechanical built switch.

The actual technical issue with the above is this. The switch we use has 2 long 1" leads. The leads are soldered in to place. What you don't see on our switch is the 2 small PCB style leads. Because we use Delrin, we can't heat the brass up completely within the assembly to temperature for the solder to stick. Thus, we use a gel flux. This electrical flux (smells like pine tar and is just as sticky) does 2 things. 1) Clean the surface to allow for a strong solder joint. 2) Almost like a flash heat, so we don't have to set the solder gun on there for more than a second, thus resulting in melted delrin. The downside to this flux, if it gets anywhere EXCEPT the actual solder joint, perhaps a small bit on one of these leads or right underneath the switch, it causes the switch to get sticky or simply short out. It rarely RARELY happens (<1-2%), but it does. We can normally catch it (when you press hundreds of buttons a day, 1 or 2 being just *off/sticky*, you can tell real quick)

So, we do try our best to catch it, but we aren't always successful

 

[lotus14]

Gotcha. So if one is sticky, can the user find and clean the flux off or does the switch have to be replaced?

 

[nevergonnaleavetn]

Wondering the same. Seems like a lot of sticky switches around here.

There's been a couple of sticky switches out of the hundreds sold. Anybody that doesn't have a sticky switch check in here so we can assure these guys it's not the norm. I will start...

My switch is just fine... wonderful in fact.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

Gotcha. So if one is sticky, can the user find and clean the flux off or does the switch have to be replaced?

You know, actually the other day, we tried a couple things on a couple we caught before they left here. We tried Denatural Alcohol (soaking the entire assembly already put together) to see if that would do anything. [Denatural Alcohol is what we use on finished satin stainless steel before they head to etching] It didn't ... we then put it in a heating chamber for a few hours ... it didn't melt off either.

We later just tried to soak one of the brass pieces in acetone, and that took most of it off ... However, we don't take acetone to switch assemblies because it will corrode brass like no other!!!!

So, essentially when this happens, we clip the solder joints, pull the switch, soak the delrin in acetone for a few minutes, let her dry off. Resolder a new switch and we are good to go.

We have only done it once to a couple switches that didn't go out, and it worked perfectly fine!

 

[lotus14]

There's been a couple of sticky switches out of the hundreds sold. Anybody that doesn't have a sticky switch check in here so we can assure these guys it's not the norm. I will start...

My switch is just fine... wonderful in fact.

LOL! I'm sure the VAST majority of Proteges are perfect and I can't wait to get mine (maybe tomorrow! ). I never meant to insinuate they had a design flaw!

I just know that as Steve pointed out, the switch is a natural weak point in any device and wondered what caused them to stick (besides overtightening) and whether it could be fixed by the user without sending it in for repairs.

I'm sure once I get mine I will not want to part with it! Probably have to order another one just to ease my OCD mind ;-)

 

[lotus14]

You know, actually the other day, we tried a couple things on a couple we caught before they left here. We tried Denatural Alcohol (soaking the entire assembly already put together) to see if that would do anything. [Denatural Alcohol is what we use on finished satin stainless steel before they head to etching] It didn't ... we then put it in a heating chamber for a few hours ... it didn't melt off either.

We later just tried to soak one of the brass pieces in acetone, and that took most of it off ... However, we don't take acetone to switch assemblies because it will corrode brass like no other!!!!

So, essentially when this happens, we clip the solder joints, pull the switch, soak the delrin in acetone for a few minutes, let her dry off. Resolder a new switch and we are good to go.

We have only done it once to a couple switches that didn't go out, and it worked perfectly fine!

So I take that to mean yes, the unit has to be sent in to have the switch replaced. Darn it Steve, you're gonna make my paranoid self buy another one for a back-up!

 

[nevergonnaleavetn]

You're gonna love it!!! Left home today with the Protege and a bottle of juice. Didn't even need to take a spare battery. It's small enough to be comfortable in your hand even while driving.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

So I take that to mean yes, the unit has to be sent in to have the switch replaced. Darn it Steve, you're gonna make my paranoid self buy another one for a back-up!

LOL ... No need to be paranoid lotus. If you can solder, I will be selling extra switches themselves really really cheap. Save's time and money both ways if you can clip and solder a switch. BUT, if worse comes to worse, you can always buy a 2nd protege ... I won't hold it against ya LOL

You're gonna love it!!! Left home today with the Protege and a bottle of juice. Didn't even need to take a spare battery. It's small enough to be comfortable in your hand even while driving.

Very nice TN!!!!! I still don't have that strength (atleast since last weekend) I carry 2 batteries in my change pocket to the shop everyday with one loaded in the chamber!

 

[nevergonnaleavetn]

Very nice TN!!!!! I still don't have that strength (atleast since last weekend) I carry 2 batteries in my change pocket to the shop everyday with one loaded in the chamber!

- we should all learn a valuable lesson from your ordeal. Think I'll just put a couple extra batts in the car.

 

[CaSHMeRe]

- we should all learn a valuable lesson from your ordeal. Think I'll just put a couple extra batts in the car.

VERY VERY smart idea .... I left the house with 120ml of liquid (cause i wasn't sure how much i would use in 3 days!!! lol) but forgot the damn charger and batteries .... sad to say, that 120ml's never got used LOL

 

[lotus14]

LOL ... No need to be paranoid lotus. If you can solder, I will be selling extra switches themselves really really cheap. Save's time and money both ways if you can clip and solder a switch. BUT, if worse comes to worse, you can always buy a 2nd protege ... I won't hold it against ya LOL

NOW I see why everyone speaks so highly of you Steve. ;-)

Casey, you gotta take back that stuff you said about Steve! 8-o

 

[Casey@PS]

ahem? this is my lengthening this post to 10 characters. the only important ones are the first 5.

 

[BrockJ]

I dont' know what kinf of flux your using but I use a product called "Orange Crush" when trying to resolder connections on servos or drive boards. It's 100% water soluble.
Since I can't have any residue left behind, I wash the circuit boards off under warm to hot water to be sure it's all gone.

just a thought....