Hi. I've just ordered a new sigelei 50w box mod because my trusty old Zmax keeps saying 'no load' with my KF+, RDA, and an old evod. It's just not recognising any atomiser attached, but the coils are fine. Is there a solution here, something to do with the gold coloured centre part of the 510 connector on the sigelei perhaps? There was a nano second last night where I saw it reading resistance but I've not been able to see that again. Has to be said it's had a few hard drops recently.
Sigelei Zmax V5 - no load
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Search on here for (o ring+ 510 pin) and you will find lots of info.
Most likely will fix the problem, since you seen it read resistance for a blink...it most likely isn't broken solder/wires.
I fixed a smok z-maz that was gifted to me used over 1 1/5 yrs ago and it has worked for me and several other people I helped to start vaping....still works today!
Most likely will fix the problem, since you seen it read resistance for a blink...it most likely isn't broken solder/wires.
I fixed a smok z-maz that was gifted to me used over 1 1/5 yrs ago and it has worked for me and several other people I helped to start vaping....still works today!
Thanks Tmebs. I haven't had a chance to search for 0 ring + 510 yet, but will do. Meanwhile, I've managed to get my Kayfun working on it by turning the centre screw anticlockwise at the base of the Kayfun with a flathead screwdriver. The screw turns but barely appears to protrude any further, and yet as soon as the Kayfun got to its final turn on the Sigelei, the Sigelei registered it and is firing. So turning the screw has made a difference, but I'm assuming the centre contact inside the 510 connector of the Sigelei has been pushed down and needs bringing up but I can't see how to do that so I'd better search for O ring + 510 connector. I can't get my IGO -W working though as there's no screw at the base.
If you can wiggle up the 510 pin and get a small oring in there ( this is where patience comes in ) it should help the 510 from getting pushed down/ make connection.
Yeah you pushed it in good
Try to get just the center brass looking part to wiggle up with a tiny screwdriver.
Be somewhat gentle, you should have about 3/4 of an inch of wire/ pull out the old o-ring and replace.
Then try to not overtighten you toppers....
Try to get just the center brass looking part to wiggle up with a tiny screwdriver.
Be somewhat gentle, you should have about 3/4 of an inch of wire/ pull out the old o-ring and replace.
Then try to not overtighten you toppers....
Yeah you pushed it in good
Try to get just the center brass looking part to wiggle up with a tiny screwdriver.
Be somewhat gentle, you should have about 3/4 of an inch of wire/ pull out the old o-ring and replace.
Then try to not overtighten you toppers....
Ah, so yea, seems like I did a good job of pushing it in then.
I'll give that a go tomorrow and see how I get on. Thanks mate, will let you know and probably take another picture of any progress I make, assuming I can get a screwdriver underneath the brass.
Oh dear, I've completely ****** it up now 
I wasn't able to to pull the centre up but I sure as hell managed to push it further in. I can't see how to get right inside the guts of it to fix it. I took the display window off but there's not enough room to fiddle with it through the tiny gap, nor can I get tweezers through the top to pull the dislodged piece back into position.
I wasn't able to to pull the centre up but I sure as hell managed to push it further in. I can't see how to get right inside the guts of it to fix it. I took the display window off but there's not enough room to fiddle with it through the tiny gap, nor can I get tweezers through the top to pull the dislodged piece back into position.
All is not lost yet.
You can remove the whole top (carefully) and may have to do some soldering.
The only thing is you only have about 3/4 of an inch of wire to play with.
If you don't remove the board and just un solder the pin, replace o-ring and then re solder the pin.... Push it all back together.
You can remove the whole top (carefully) and may have to do some soldering.
The only thing is you only have about 3/4 of an inch of wire to play with.
If you don't remove the board and just un solder the pin, replace o-ring and then re solder the pin.... Push it all back together.
Well, don't know whats up with the video link, but anyway...Youtube
Sigelei v3-v5 repair...Andy's vids
Sigelei v3-v5 repair...Andy's vids
The one piece stainless steel 510/eGo connector is pretty easy to remove by holding it in a vice. It's just a friction fit. Wrap with leather or something to protect it from the vice jaws. Then pull the V5 tube away from the connector using a little wiggle on the tube to get it started. It takes some considerable force to pull it loose so be careful that you don't pull it too far or you will break one of the solder joints on the wires. The wires can be re-soldered if needed. The brass 510 center pin can be pushed back into position from the underside. When done you can use a vice or a wooden mallet to drift the 510/eGo connector assembly back into the tube.
Thank you very much guys! And yzer, thanks for that info and photos, really helps. One of the schools I work at, I'll go to their technology classroom and ask if I can use one of their vices. I' ve just noticed a tiny white plastic ring that must have fallen out. I'm assuming it's the o ring I need. When I get to the point of pushing the centre pin back in from underneath, where do I put that ring?
That white ring is the insulator that fits around the brass center pin. I haven't removed or replaced the pin and insulator myself, but it should be easy to get these back into place inside the one piece SS 510/eGo connector. I'd clean all of the connector parts with rubbing alcohol before reassembly. If the insulator is cracked use some RTV silicone adhesive to restore the seal. You may also want to use the RTV to help seal between the pin and insulator if the hole in the insulator has been enlarged.
Because the insulator has fallen out you may need to do some fiddling to get everything back together with the white B+ wire still soldered to the pin and board. When factory built I'm guessing that the white wire was soldered onto the center pin first and the wire, pin and insulator were placed into the 510/eGo connector. The black B- wire was already soldered to the steel connector. Both wires were then soldered to the board.
I haven't done this job myself because I haven't needed to... but the clear plastic window that fits over the LCD display is glued to the tube with small amounts of glue on the edges of the window.
Because the insulator has fallen out you may need to do some fiddling to get everything back together with the white B+ wire still soldered to the pin and board. When factory built I'm guessing that the white wire was soldered onto the center pin first and the wire, pin and insulator were placed into the 510/eGo connector. The black B- wire was already soldered to the steel connector. Both wires were then soldered to the board.
I haven't done this job myself because I haven't needed to... but the clear plastic window that fits over the LCD display is glued to the tube with small amounts of glue on the edges of the window.
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