If I remember correctly it was Nickle and NiChrome 80. I was also using some NiChrome 60 at the time so maybe a bit of that too.
Question about welded wire from FastTech, NR-R-NR?
- Thread starter Gahh
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If I remember correctly it was Nickle and NiChrome 80. I was also using some NiChrome 60 at the time so maybe a bit of that too.
I think I am starting to Lean Heavily that this Wire is Kanthal after reading this...
Kanthal - Kantian - FeCrAl
And perhaps FT Intentionally omitted the "Al".
I don't think any TC mods have any way of determining what any coil is made from.!!!!
They will identify a tc capable coil by noting a rise in resistance as the coil heats up, and many mods will kick you out of tc if the resistance doesn't increase (or if it doesn't increase fast enough - here's the root of the problem many wismec mods have with complex coils in tc. The wire mass is so large that it takes a long time for the coil to heat up, and thus the mod doesn't register a fast enough increase in resistance and kicks you into power mode).
Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
Sorry, took the night off, lol. My Steam-R Mini, will kick out of temp, want to say some some older mods I had did too. Can't remember and sold all the VW's I had other than this mini, as I mainly stick to mechs.
I do not have much knowledge about how TC mods work.
But if a TC mod kicks out of TC mode, and just goes into power mode on its own, this can't be a good thing. Especially when using Ti or Ni.
All these complex situations and problems is why I'm not a big TC fan.
My real concern with my original posting is if the NR-R-NR wires, which are Ni200 - ( ?Kanthal ? ) - Ni200 , can this be used in power mode safely.
As there is 8 wraps around 3.5mm jig and ( 2 wraps on each end of the coil are Ni200 ).
Thus when powering up, the 4 wraps of Kanthal are the primary heating element of the coil, but there is the 4 wraps of Ni200 which are the makeup of this coil.
I would think it is best to find a premade wire with enough length of resistance wire to make the entire coil you want, with the welded joints just beyond the coil ends. I hope somebody else has more experience to clarify that, as I buy mine precoiled at fairly high resistance.
My original post / question and all replies to it have me thinking in a whole new way.
Do we, and should we believe prebuilt coils are truly made from what they say they are.
Thought,,, if the company that makes Smok coils buy their materials from a company who mislabeled the material, WHAT DO YOU REALLY GET!!!!!!
Do we, and should we believe prebuilt coils are truly made from what they say they are.
Thought,,, if the company that makes Smok coils buy their materials from a company who mislabeled the material, WHAT DO YOU REALLY GET!!!!!!
NR-R-NR wire is great for coil heads that hold the leads in place with a rubber grommit. You won't risk burning the grommit as the NR part of the wire won't heat up (much).
As for a tc mod kicking you out of tc mode. Mods that do that usually kick you into a low wattage setting. It is to indicate clearly that you're not using a tc capable wire, or that there's something else wrong. Otherwise the mod would just fire at the full set wattage without limiting temperature and you'd be at a much greater risk of burning the wick.
Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
I seem to remember using in GG Oddy NR-very pure silver wire R- Kanthal wire twisted together.
Exactly, but if, like with this wire, it'd be about the only way to know if it is temp or power wire.
EDIT: Just thought about it, technically this wire could be used either way. As is it should work in power mode (watts). Clip off both NR legs and use center, still power mode, use either of the NR legs only and should work in temp mode.
I think Arctic Fox fixes this. It does it on Eleaf mods, anyway. I had a monster coil in one of my tanks that took a beer commercial to ramp up and the Pico Dual with AF firmare handled it gracefully.
Yes, Silver wire was used when twisting but if memory serves me the Nickle wire worked a bit better when welding.
I prefer simple coils, dual twisted 28ga maximum, so I don't have problems with the Wismec firmware. I tried Arctic Fox on one of my rx200, but it wasn't for me. I actually prefer the Wismec/Eleaf/Joyetech firmware, but I'm weird in other ways as well... [emoji3]
Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
I'm quite sure that wire isn't useable in tc. The NR ends are simply there to protect the rubber grommit from burning, it won't heat up noticeably.
Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
In a whole no, but the NR ends are ni-chrome (don't remember the abbreviation), which is a temp wire for some mods, won't say all, as I'm not a temp user. You're right about the heating up though, they pass current faster, causing the hot spot in the R part of the wire, so by the time the NR could get hot enough to melt/burn grommets, the wick has been beyond cooked in the coil.
NiChrome is an excellent resistance wire used in a variety of applications, it doesn't change resistance much when heated and not suitable for TC.
My bad Ni wire which is nickel-titanium not chromium, don't know why I was thinking chrome (well I do I don't do temp, lol.) I just remembered it was Ni-200 wire which will/should do temp if separated from the "Kanthal" type center.
That's how the Aspire vertical (chimney, actually) coil unit I took apart was made, except more like 6 wraps heating and 1.5 on each end non-heating.
That wire can be used in power mode, and only in power mode. The resistance of the nickel is almost insignificant, especially on the higher resistance wires where the nickel is also thicker than the heating wire.
Re: rubber grommets, when they're involved NR-R-NR is the only way to go -- even if the original manufacturer or other DIYers didn't!
- Status
Similar threads
