Poldiac Clone

[zipflint]

Yeah, after some help from you guys, I'm REALLY diggin' my Poldiac clone. It's a fasttech one, I can't find the box it came in, but I'm pretty sure it was DaVapes. Came with the 18350 tube and pants.

I still need to do a little work on the button. Thanks to you guys (was it you, bce22?) twigging me to the fact that the contact points are the SIDES of the pin, and NOT the TOP, I sanded them down and it's hitting a little harder now. I haven't replaced the pin yet though, because I haven't been anywhere to pick up the right diameter copper replacement.

So I still have to push that button HARD to get it to fire. If I replace the stock pin with a slightly thicker copper one, will this alleviate that issue? I also have to back the top 510 pin up quite a bit for anything to make contact, and that's probably adding slack to said pin....

 

[dwcraig1]

The one pictured at White Stag has the plastic insulator in the 510 cap like the original has, that is necessary when configuring with bottom (side) switch. The Devape's is brass and would create a short if used that way.

 

[hobbes4]

Good catch, also it says silver plated contacts which the Asmart does not have. I am thinking about ordering it just to try it since I love my asmart.

I have two Asmart clones from a group buy and the person who ran it said we could get silver plated for $35 or solid silver for $50 so it's possible that White Stag got Asmart with silver plated.

 

[bce22]

Yeah, after some help from you guys, I'm REALLY diggin' my Poldiac clone. It's a fasttech one, I can't find the box it came in, but I'm pretty sure it was DaVapes. Came with the 18350 tube and pants.

I still need to do a little work on the button. Thanks to you guys (was it you, bce22?) twigging me to the fact that the contact points are the SIDES of the pin, and NOT the TOP, I sanded them down and it's hitting a little harder now. I haven't replaced the pin yet though, because I haven't been anywhere to pick up the right diameter copper replacement.

So I still have to push that button HARD to get it to fire. If I replace the stock pin with a slightly thicker copper one, will this alleviate that issue? I also have to back the top 510 pin up quite a bit for anything to make contact, and that's probably adding slack to said pin....

Yeah that was me. I was an idiot originally and didn't inspect the device to truly understand how it worked. Once I figured it out it was an AH HA moment! My pin slips through the plastic button. I had to push it with a drill bit but it definitely pushes through. Once out I was able to sand it and polish it with a polishing wheel on my dremel and it works 99% of the time now which is good enough for me and hits pretty hard.

I have two Asmart clones from a group buy and the person who ran it said we could get silver plated for $35 or solid silver for $50 so it's possible that White Stag got Asmart with silver plated.

Interesting, that is good to know.

 

[NickSteel]

And you could also try the NO OX ID A-Special conductive grease. It seems to keep my DaVapes firing consistently. Don't know if it is due to improved conductivity or preventing oxidation of the contacts. It also improved my Nemesis clone when I put a light coat on all the threads, switch parts and contacts.

 

[bce22]

And you could also try the NO OX ID A-Special conductive grease. It seems to keep my DaVapes firing consistently. Don't know if it is due to improved conductivity or preventing oxidation of the contacts. It also improved my Nemesis clone when I put a light coat on all the threads, switch parts and contacts.

Is that the same compound as NOALOX?

 

[NickSteel]

Is that the same compound as NOALOX?

No, something different. I was told that it had liquid rather than solid particles for conductivity and was also smoother for threads. Both probably work, but a guy on a group I belong to swore by this. It works for me and I use it on all the threads, moving parts and contacts for my mods. (A little goes a long way).

2 Ounce Tub CB Ham Radio No Ox ID A Special Conductive Grease All Antenna Metal | eBay

 

[bce22]

Thanks for the link, I bought some. $8 shipped seems reasonable to me.

 

[NickSteel]

Thanks for the link, I bought some. $8 shipped seems reasonable to me.

I think you'll immediately feel the smoother threads and conductivity. Post back when you try it, so I can see how it works for you.

 

[zipflint]

I'm used to using Noalox. I need to see some kinda comparison chart or something to see what the differences are. I Noalox every mechanical mod I have. Except, now that I think about it.....I don't remember applying any to the contact pins in the button. Hmmm.

My main issue, still, (and I apologize if I'm sounding like a borked record, you guys might be answering me and I'm just not "getting it" today; today is not going well on many fronts....) is that it seems like the contact pins are too....thin. Like they've got to travel too far into the housing to hit the top and bottom, screw-in bits.

Boy, I sound super technical, don't I?!

 

[NickSteel]

The contact areas on a Poldiac are so small, I was willing to try anything. Supposedly this stuff fights oxidation on the contact surfaces - who knows? But mine seems more consistent with it.

 

[bce22]

From restoring Vintage Audio Gear (ie. receivers from the 70s) I have found out the beauty of deoxit on all contact posts (RCA plugs) and front panel potentiometers (Pots) such as volume, balance, bass and treble. Removes all the old oxidation that causes channels to die out and removes all that static from dirty pots. I used it on my positive contact and spring in my provari with good results. It is MUCH more expensive than this stuff.

Thanks again!

 

[zipflint]

Hmmm....veeeewy intorwesting......

 

[zipflint]

Man, replacing that little steel pin with a brass pellet did WONDERS for this thing. Seriously. You guys were right, it's tough to get it to budge at first, but it's fairly easy to remove without dinging anything else on the button assembly.

I bought a length of brass (about $1.50 for a yard of it) that was just a TINY bit wider in diameter and shoved that in there, after sanding down the top and bottom bits where I cut it. Now the throw is nice and smooth, and doesn't take so much force. And I'm sure there is a reduction in v-drop as well.

At least, that's what my brain is telling me. Anyone who's got one of these should consider doing this. Don't be too put off by the seemingly complex nature of the button assembly. It's really no big deal. Like I always say, I'm a klutz and a doofus, so if I can do it, anyone can!

 

[bce22]

Man, replacing that little steel pin with a brass pellet did WONDERS for this thing. Seriously. You guys were right, it's tough to get it to budge at first, but it's fairly easy to remove without dinging anything else on the button assembly.

I bought a length of brass (about $1.50 for a yard of it) that was just a TINY bit wider in diameter and shoved that in there, after sanding down the top and bottom bits where I cut it. Now the throw is nice and smooth, and doesn't take so much force. And I'm sure there is a reduction in v-drop as well.

At least, that's what my brain is telling me. Anyone who's got one of these should consider doing this. Don't be too put off by the seemingly complex nature of the button assembly. It's really no big deal. Like I always say, I'm a klutz and a doofus, so if I can do it, anyone can!

Congratz zip!

So i hate to say it but I would not buy the Asmart clone. The original complaints about the threads being too short are correct. Now that it has popped off a couple of times sitting in my pocket it doesn't really catch anymore. I have tried teflon pipe tape (the thin white stuff) and that doesn't work either. I think I am going to locktite the pants section to the button assembly. This will make it useful at least but will mean that I probably can't get into the button itself to clean the pin and contacts in the future. I will no-ox-id it first.

It is a beautiful device that seems to be well-made but this is a fatal flaw.

 

[zipflint]

FWIW, mine came from fasttech (and actually got to me within two weeks, I was shocked), and it's the Da Vapes one.

 

[Sirius]

I got one on the way from FT..Wished I had known about the switch problem before I ordered it. lol
Should be like the Neme switch though, a piece of cake.

 

[bce22]

I got one on the way from FT..Wished I had known about the switch problem before I ordered it. lol
Should be like the Neme switch though, a piece of cake.

Technically it is nothing like the nemesis switch. If you mean once you tinker with it a little it works like a champ, then you are right. I will say that it is a little more involved.

 

[nelsonm64]

I received a davapes poldiac yesterday. right off the hop the switch button came off and, the magnet fell off aswell... after totally cleaning up the burrs and whatnot in the switch housing, re-glueing the magnet and button back on (straight) with super glue gel it works great... i'm even using the silver pin that it came with... so far so good

 

[bce22]

Gratz Nelson.

It really is a nice piece once given a little TLC.