Occasional Blue light eclipse

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jpisarra

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Sometimes red light does not change to blue and no vapor is produced in my buzz pro.
I have to detach the atty/carto and reattach it to have again blue/vapor.
This happens about randomly (but maybe more when batterys are worn) and affects about 10% of my vaping (or maybe less).
Any thoughts?

Also my old buzz pro (the one that went to rma) shut the device without any loss of power when batterys were discharged; in this one (same one but eventually with new pcb pieces (?) vapor production and general power weakens a bit before turning off.
 

mamamia

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Sometimes red light does not change to blue and no vapor is produced in my buzz pro.
I have to detach the atty/carto and reattach it to have again blue/vapor.
This happens about randomly (but maybe more when batterys are worn) and affects about 10% of my vaping (or maybe less).
Any thoughts?

Also my old buzz pro (the one that went to rma) shut the device without any loss of power when batterys were discharged; in this one (same one but eventually with new pcb pieces (?) vapor production and general power weakens a bit before turning off.

I have the same issues here... and *T*H*I*N*K* I have found a kind of remedy for it. I am using 3 BPs with 3 A2 self-coiling attys. One day I got sick and tired of all these failures with contact (that's the reason imo why the blue light sometimes doesn't come on ---- and in one of my BPs sometimes the blue light EVEN DIDN'T SHUT OFF when I stopped pressing the button ... that wasn't funny at all, because I wouldn't notice it all the time right away, and so in these situations the atty would get boiling hot) ..... so lately, I took my 3 A2s and switched them around on the Buzzes .... tried out until I fould out which of the A2s worked best with which of the BPs..... and atm I have them in a configuration where each of the A2s works just fine on "its" own BP. In order to be able to discern the A2s (they all look like twins and triplets, no way to tell one from the other) I have then put a special colored mouthpiece on each of them - my A2 on the purple buzz has a pink mouthpiece, the one with the "old blue" a turquoise one, and the one in "new blue" a blue one. So this is how I am using them, and it works (for me).

I think this happens due do minimal differences in measurements - as I said, I see it as a contact problem between the BP and the related atty.

The second issue you address (that it slightly loses power before it shuts) is something I have experienced with all my 3 Buzzes --- and I always thought that this is just "normal".
 
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5cardstud

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If your atty or carto isn't making a good enough contact the blue light won't come on, Mama is correct. Many times it's because the center post is barely touching and sometimes loses contact. Try tightening it just a little next time it happens. That's one of the woes of the ecig industry is there is no uniformity on the threading and center post placement so one carto/atty works on one device but not another and vice versa.

I
The second issue you address (that it slightly loses power before it shuts) is something I have experienced with all my 3 Buzzes --- and I always thought that this is just "normal".
Right again, it is normal. The controller needs a set amount of voltage to run when it gets close to that number it keeps firing even though it's close to being an insufficient amount of voltage to fire. Just think of it as a signal your close to needing batteries charged but it is normal.
 
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mamamia

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The "mixed" light indicates either a short or low battery. In your case it sounds like a short in the atty/carto. I have had it be anything from a piece of debris in the connecter to an internal short.

The mixed light was not the issue we were discussing here - at least I didn't take it as such?

The issue was that sometimes the red light stays red, and the BP just won't fire. And with my BP #3 which I just got a few weeks ago, I had this issue both ways: sometimes it wouldn't fire (LED stays red), and other times it wouldn't STOP firing (LED stays blue, and atty gets boiling hot).

My personal solution to this was to switch around my attys (always the same type of atty: A2) until every BP worked just fine. Then, in order to not confuse them any more (e.g. when I have to do fresh coilings), I put an individual mouthpiece on each atty so that I will always know which atty "belongs" to which BP. ;)


@5card: Thanks for the confirmation - it's kinda relieving that I am just *not quite* as dumb as I thought I might be. :D :vapor:
 
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jpisarra

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I've play with the center post and clean the top cap.
At no avail.

I'm losing faith on this PV.
First was the snap button and then the collapse of the pcb, did return from rma (almost 2 months waiting and another $40 payment to Portugal customs because notcigs insists on putting the package insured) and now it does fire at will... Too many problems: Sure the 'engine' and power are quite excellent but if this was a cheap PV I would already ditch it.
 

5cardstud

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For the first time it happened to me. I was trying to take a puff when it wouldn't go. I checked everything and it was good. So I got out the meter and the batteries had about one puff left so they were low and although the screw in the bottom cap seemed tight it was losing just enough connectivity that with low batteries it couldn't supply enough power to run the controller. I took my own advice and worked the bottom cap screw back and forth a few times then tightened it. Then it worked but still needed the batteries charged so I put in a fresh set and it works fine.
 

Bovinia

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Jp, I'm so sorry that you have had so much trouble with your BP :( I am disappointed for you that it still isn't working after your RMA and money spent on customs.

Is there any way to get around the customs charges at all? Maybe Mike could just send you a new BP and ship it as a personal gift or package? Maybe you and Mike can get together on the phone and work it out.
 

BuzzKill

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Ant that it: next puff, only red again. lol

This sounds like a bad battery to me Jp ! can you test them ? do you have another set ?
is the screw inside the top cap tight ? follow the " replacing the top cap on the buzz " thread

One other thing when you have the top cap off , look at the PCB it has a heat shrink tubing covering it ( black ) do you see any marks that look like maybe the center post is touching it ?? these PCB are supposed to lean back to clear the center post.
 
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jpisarra

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Problems still going on.
Passed 3 days without a failure but it still comes back.
No it's not the batterys.
I suspect now that any small portion of liquid entering it's causing it: sometimes when it does not get blue I can simply wait for half an hour (drying) and it's ok again.
Driping in this state is impossible.
Note that liquid entering is in very very small portions - mostly can pass unnoticed - I can only notice humidity trough toilet paper.
Would a top cap replacement resolve this?
 
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