New Precise 18650 and 16340 Models!

[KonaNeil]

Sorry Grimmer, these are the only 16340s I've owned. I can say that they don't fall off like my 14500s do. With 14500s, I recharge at around 3.85V. With these I start to feel a drop off at 3.5V after 4.5 to 5 hours. They are only 550mah.

Got mine from http://www.lighthound.com . I have a Pila charger on order but bought the appropriate Nano charger along with the batteries to have something small for travel. I'm a little puzzled that it charges them only to 4.12V and takes 3 hours while my Trustfire 001 takes them to 4.2V and does it in half the time. My guess it they'll last longer charging them with the Nano. The battery's voltage curve is such that it very quickly goes from 4.2 to 4.1 and stays there for some time.

God! This would sound so nerdy to anyone normal;-)

 

[Switched]

i need to try those 16340 H-D batteries... Hey KonaNeil where did you get yours and which charger should I use them with? And do they last longer than the 900 mah regular 16340 3.6v batteries? And does it feel like 4.3v the life of the battery or does it drop off like the regular 16340? If it does drop in voltage how long before you notice a reduce in vapor production?

Sorry Grimmer, these are the only 16340s I've owned. I can say that they don't fall off like my 14500s do. With 14500s, I recharge at around 3.85V. With these I start to feel a drop off at 3.5V after 4.5 to 5 hours. They are only 550mah.

Got mine from http://www.lighthound.com . I have a Pila charger on order but bought the appropriate Nano charger along with the batteries to have something small for travel. I'm a little puzzled that it charges them only to 4.12V and takes 3 hours while my Trustfire 001 takes them to 4.2V and does it in half the time. My guess it they'll last longer charging them with the Nano. The battery's voltage curve is such that it very quickly goes from 4.2 to 4.1 and stays there for some time.

God! This would sound so nerdy to anyone normal;-)

From what I have gathered here and there:

• The IMR's are best suited, for where they have been used for years, in high end, high torque rechargeable tools.The chart shows that they live up to their mAh ratings but so do many of the common, often maligned cheapies. We don't need the 4+A draw that they are capable of at the rather extreme trade-off of runtime. A Joye user needs about 1.8A, That's a cake walk for all 18650 Li-ions. Even the 2.3A draw of the LR atties is not a problem. It's kinda like putting a larger fuel line and a smaller gas tank on your car. The car runs the same just not as long. The AW Li-ions are a much better choice. And for those on a budget the black/red TrustFire 2400's, which do in fact meet their 2400mAh claim, and are a good alternative as at DX you can get 2 for the same price as one AW Li-ion.
• AW 2600 are much better than the AW LiMN 1600 when using 18650 for our purposes. Longer bat cycles and identical vape.
• The AW 2600 put out 5.2a continuous discharge which is well above any ecig or mod. They outlast the LiMN per cycle by 35-40% and yes I have tested. At that size using the LiMN is a waste.
• I'd definitely go with LiMN for single bat mods for the smaller bat sizes. The regular Li-ion bats dont cut it which is why a 510 with a 14500 suck.
• The AW 2600 is actually rated accurately and can put out 4 times more continuous current than the ultrafire. Both AW 18650 are a much better choice.

My understanding of all this, IMRs for 14500 and below, this will provide a "turbo charger" so to speak.

AWs on the other hand are pricey, but deliver. When they quit, they quit, no trailing off like other batts and as KonaNeil has explained.

That is also why I asked about batts in the 18650 batts and the P18 thread. I do not want to use the 1600 mAh IMR.

 

[VaporMadness]

From what I have gathered here and there:

• The IMR's are best suited, for where they have been used for years, in high end, high torque rechargeable tools.The chart shows that they live up to their mAh ratings but so do many of the common, often maligned cheapies. We don't need the 4+A draw that they are capable of at the rather extreme trade-off of runtime. A Joye user needs about 1.8A, That's a cake walk for all 18650 Li-ions. Even the 2.3A draw of the LR atties is not a problem. It's kinda like putting a larger fuel line and a smaller gas tank on your car. The car runs the same just not as long. The AW Li-ions are a much better choice. And for those on a budget the black/red TrustFire 2400's, which do in fact meet their 2400mAh claim, and are a good alternative as at DX you can get 2 for the same price as one AW Li-ion.
• AW 2600 are much better than the AW LiMN 1600 when using 18650 for our purposes. Longer bat cycles and identical vape.
• The AW 2600 put out 5.2a continuous discharge which is well above any ecig or mod. They outlast the LiMN per cycle by 35-40% and yes I have tested. At that size using the LiMN is a waste.
• I'd definitely go with LiMN for single bat mods for the smaller bat sizes. The regular Li-ion bats dont cut it which is why a 510 with a 14500 suck.
• The AW 2600 is actually rated accurately and can put out 4 times more continuous current than the ultrafire. Both AW 18650 are a much better choice.

My understanding of all this, IMRs for 14500 and below, this will provide a "turbo charger" so to speak.

AWs on the other hand are pricey, but deliver. When they quit, they quit, no trailing off like other batts and as KonaNeil has explained.

That is also why I asked about batts in the 18650 batts and the P18 thread. I do not want to use the 1600 mAh IMR.

That sounds right to me. The conclusion being...

* Use the IMRs for 14500 and 16340 single battery setups so current demands are comfortably met.
* Use higher mAh rated batts for single battery 18650 setups, the more usual battery chemistry can comfortably meet demands at this size so no need for LiMNs here.

What's less clear to me is which would be preferred in a 2x 16340 setup regulated down to 5v. I suspect you don't need the high-drains here either and you'll get longer runtime without them.

Although that's only looking at it from the power delivery point of view. There is also less potential for explosive failure modes with LiMN chemistry which could change the equation for some people. But then again, the LiMNs don't contain protection circuitry (which make them more susceptible to badness when put on a short-circuit).

eCigs are fun stuff

 

[grabeard]

That sounds right to me. The conclusion being...

* Use the IMRs for 14500 and 16340 single battery setups so current demands are comfortably met.
* Use higher mAh rated batts for single battery 18650 setups, the more usual battery chemistry can comfortably meet demands at this size so no need for LiMNs here.

What's less clear to me is which would be preferred in a 2x 16340 setup regulated down to 5v. I suspect you don't need the high-drains here either and you'll get longer runtime without them.

Although that's only looking at it from the power delivery point of view. There is also less potential for explosive failure modes with LiMN chemistry which could change the equation for some people. But then again, the LiMNs don't contain protection circuitry (which make them more susceptible to badness when put on a short-circuit).

eCigs are fun stuff

There are many lithium ion batteries WITH protected circuits.

 

[VaporMadness]

There are many lithium ion batteries WITH proyected circuits.

Of course, I was referring to the IMR line of high-drain LiMN (lithium manganese) batteries which don't contain protection circuitry (afaik) because the chemistry is considered safe-enough as is.

 

[KonaNeil]

Of course, I was referring to the IMR line of high-drain LiMN (lithium manganese) batteries which don't contain protection circuitry (afaik) because the chemistry is considered safe-enough as is.

I gather they are safe from the possibility of fire but I'm wondering if they are safe from rapid out-gassing. I bring this up because the designer choose to add vents in the button top (please see picture below).

The big question then becomes: are they safe to use in PVs having no venting of their own?

 

[VaporMadness]

I gather they are safe from the possibility of fire but I'm wondering if they are safe from rapid out-gassing. I bring this up because the designer choose to add vents in the button top (please see picture below).

The big question then becomes: are they safe to use in PVs having no venting of their own?

Good question, I don't know how much pressure could build up in a sealed MOD if the battery pops. I'm using these batts in a sealed MOD so I have a real interest in that, I just don't know where to look for an answer to that question.

 

[Switched]

FWIW, I only use protected, which I prefer over safe chemistry. Now it can be argued that a PCB can fail, I just feel safer.

 

[VaporMadness]

FWIW, I only use protected, which I prefer over safe chemistry. Now it can be argued that a PCB can fail, I just feel safer.

Although a PCB should help prevent a runaway thermal event from starting, if one does start, a PCB won't be of much help.

Ya know... it's pretty great that my biggest safety/health concerns when it comes to vaping have to do with battery technology rather than carcinogens and carbon monoxide

 

[grabeard]

Although a PCB should help prevent a runaway thermal event from starting, if one does start, a PCB won't be of much help.

Ya know... it's pretty great that my biggest safety/health concerns when it comes to vaping have to do with battery technology rather than carcinogens and carbon monoxide

I couldn't agree more.

 

[North Shore]

I ordered the 16340 based model today. I am pretty much done with 6V with its special needs and dangers. So, I am going with LR atomizers and a smaller machine. My hope is that when I am out at bars people won't see it in my hand and want a hit. After all, why escape cancer and COPD only to catch SARS?

I did mention in my order notes that some sort of venting in every one of these devices would be a really good idea, aesthetics and moisture issues notwithstanding. How about a hole with a rubber valve like a pressure cooker? If it goes boom the seal could push out, yet otherwise the rubber plug would prevent moisture and lint from getting into the battery housing. If that would occupy too much space, what about a liner made of thin plastic that would block moisture from the vent but would pop outwards in a calamity?

 

[BrockJ]

I've never had moisture issues with the T1 or super 6 and they've been from DC to Denver and back to Dallas without so much as a bead of dew. Took the 6 skiing two weeks ago and vaped on the ski lift.... it was fine...

I also ordered the 16340 due to the size and performance I've been getting with the IMR's in the T1. Not sure it'll hide in your hand but it is significantly smaller than even the Super6 which is pretty short.

I enjoy the cleanliness of the Precise design without holes, gaps and play in the moving parts. I'll be glad when it gets here.

 

[FrogHat]

I'll be glad when it gets here.

Weeks away my friend............... weeks away

But I am anxious too, I am going out of town for a month or so. Bet it's here when I get back

 

[GrandPoobah]

I did mention in my order notes that some sort of venting in every one of these devices would be a really good idea, aesthetics and moisture issues notwithstanding. How about a hole with a rubber valve like a pressure cooker? If it goes boom the seal could push out, yet otherwise the rubber plug would prevent moisture and lint from getting into the battery housing. If that would occupy too much space, what about a liner made of thin plastic that would block moisture from the vent but would pop outwards in a calamity?

They are not vented? I can blow right trough my precise. Air flows through the bottom button no problem. Is this not the same with the other ST models?

 

[North Shore]

I tried sending some air pressure through the original Precise towards the switch end with and without a battery and with button up and down. Then I tried blowing through the switch end towards the atomizer. This unit vents no air. If yours is not sealed like this one then perhaps there is an unintended vent.

My idea was to have smaller vents than the Super Six, sort of like the Pro Vape model which seems to have borrowed Super T's recessed vent idea.

Brock, like you I would prefer no holes drilled at all. Aesthetics matter. However, I do feel safer using a model that has venting.

 

[BrockJ]

My idea was to have smaller vents than the Super Six, sort of like the Pro Vape model which seems to have borrowed Super T's recessed vent idea.

Brock, like you I would prefer no holes drilled at all. Aesthetics matter. However, I do feel safer using a model that has venting.

My idea was to have them cost $20 and be readily available.

Then why buy a Precise if you prefer a unit with venting?
Why not get a ProVape or a Super6?

It's like frequenting a Volkswagen Beetle Forum and saying that your idea is to have them produced with a V12 because you prefer more horsepower in a car.

Why not just get a Viper that has a V12?

Not trying to be chitty.. I just don't understand why you'd order a unit that is built a certain way and then wish it was different.
I'd wish for something else.....

It just makes no sense to me at all...



.

 

[grimmer255]

Hey David I know your a busy busy man, but you wouldn't happen to have any pics yet of the P16 and P18.... I really want to see them. I already know there going to be awesome but I really want to see it.

 

[Drumonron]

Hey David I know your a busy busy man, but you wouldn't happen to have any pics yet of the P16 and P18.... I really want to see them. I already know there going to be awesome but I really want to see it.

I'll second this notion. I'm looking for an update too...looking all over for one. Looking forward to it.

 

[thewomenfolk]

Did I hear someone ask for pictures?

 

[Fusion_Boy]

Yep all of us did hehehe or at least I did