Need assistance for Buzz Pro

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MickeyRat

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Okay, I came home and used it briefly and it quit firing after maybe 10 minutes. Took the batteries out. Took the caps off both ends. Pulled the screw out of the wire in the top. Took a Q-tip and some isopropyl and cleaned both caps and the threads and ends on the barrel. Put it back together and it's working for now. Don't know how long.
 

captcpu

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I have a similar problem that started today. No firing, no blue light, fully charged batteries. Tested several attys and all checked out fine. Check the reading on the BP and it looks good. But no blue light. If I hold the button down I get red and blue. If I hold the button down long enough eventually I get a solid blue LED (about 5 seconds or so) and it'll start firing.

After that it'll fire properly for a bit, then start all over again.

So, I took it all apart and cleaned it, top to bottom. Same results.

So, I've probably got a short somewhere, but darned if I can figure it out. Playing with the center screw now...

Any other thoughts greatly appreciated.
 

Tanis143

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I've been having the same type of problem. Its an older Buzz. Without a carto on the top I get a red and blue light on. When its firing, and without a carto on, the red light will disappear. When I put a carto on the blue light goes away and just has a red light. When I hit the button a blue light comes on and the red light goes away. This is "normal" behavior. Whats been happening is that it wont fire at all, either with or without a carto attached (I use SmokTech 1.5 LRDC's). Without a carto I get both blue and red led's but when the button is pushed the red light stays on. When I put a carto on the blue light goes away, but when I press the button the red light stays and no blue light. I also have tried cleaning, fresh batts, etc. Nothing I does at the time will fix it. However, it will start to work again on its own. No rhyme or reason to it. The only thing I could think off is juice is getting into the connector and causing some sort of short. Right now its been working all day and I've taken to removing my DCT and cleaning the contacts every hour or so. We'll see if this keeps it running for good.....
 

5cardstud

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I've been having the same type of problem. Its an older Buzz. Without a carto on the top I get a red and blue light on. When its firing, and without a carto on, the red light will disappear. When I put a carto on the blue light goes away and just has a red light. When I hit the button a blue light comes on and the red light goes away. This is "normal" behavior. Whats been happening is that it wont fire at all, either with or without a carto attached (I use SmokTech 1.5 LRDC's). Without a carto I get both blue and red led's but when the button is pushed the red light stays on. When I put a carto on the blue light goes away, but when I press the button the red light stays and no blue light. I also have tried cleaning, fresh batts, etc. Nothing I does at the time will fix it. However, it will start to work again on its own. No rhyme or reason to it. The only thing I could think off is juice is getting into the connector and causing some sort of short. Right now its been working all day and I've taken to removing my DCT and cleaning the contacts every hour or so. We'll see if this keeps it running for good.....

Try an Alcohol Bath. But when I was testing LR cartos on the Buzz Pro I burnt up 3 sets of batteries and that's how it acted. I only use LRs on 3.7 volt PVs they were designed for if at all.
 
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Tanis143

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Well, since yesterday its been working fine. I've been using a DCT for the first time the past week, and while at work I was leaving the DCT on the buzz pro at home while I used carto's on another (less expensive)mod at work. So, I'm wondering if some juice didn't get down into the connections and caused them to not make contact. Now I've been more studious and making sure to clean the contacts more.
 

Tanis143

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Ok, back to having the same issue. I FINALLY got the top cap off (as I said, previous owner used thread lock on it, maybe part of the problem?) and cleaned the centerpost, screw and top cap. Cleaned bottom cap and made sure spring was good. Same thing. With no carto on 510 connection I get a red and blue light. Hit button and both lights stay on. Put a carto on and the blue light goes away, red light stays. When button is pressed nothing happens and I only get a red light, no blue light. Could this be the switch going out? What I have seen after messing with it many times is that sometimes if I hold the button down long enough it will fire, but cut off again a few seconds later. I've tried all three sets of 16340's I have, same result. Checked batts with a multimeter, fresh off the charger they are hitting at 4.18v. Going to soak the center post and both screws in alcohol tonight and see what happens. I'm not very positive that this will have any effect though as its registering when the carto is on the connection (blue light goes out) it just will not fire, which leads me to believe the button is shot.
 

kempo63

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Ok, back to having the same issue. I FINALLY got the top cap off (as I said, previous owner used thread lock on it, maybe part of the problem?) and cleaned the centerpost, screw and top cap. Cleaned bottom cap and made sure spring was good. Same thing. With no carto on 510 connection I get a red and blue light. Hit button and both lights stay on. Put a carto on and the blue light goes away, red light stays. When button is pressed nothing happens and I only get a red light, no blue light. Could this be the switch going out? What I have seen after messing with it many times is that sometimes if I hold the button down long enough it will fire, but cut off again a few seconds later. I've tried all three sets of 16340's I have, same result. Checked batts with a multimeter, fresh off the charger they are hitting at 4.18v. Going to soak the center post and both screws in alcohol tonight and see what happens. I'm not very positive that this will have any effect though as its registering when the carto is on the connection (blue light goes out) it just will not fire, which leads me to believe the button is shot.

I don't think it's a button issue.

If you have a red and blue light on when pressing fire button with no carto on you still have a shorted condition (if your batts are good). No sense to even try with a carto on it until you can consistently get a solid blue light when pressing the fire button. Even if you've wiped the top screw, cap, etc., you could have moisture between the plastic bushing / washers, etc. and the metal parts. An alcohol bath (only the top cap) may help without tearing everything apart.

If you're comfortable with taking apart the top cap completely, you can remove the top screw, bottom screw, washer(s), and even the plastic bushing, and dry them with a tissue or paper towel, then install everything and try to fire it again. Then and only then can you troubleshoot if it's a carto problem.

Also, since the top cap is removed, you should check the ground screw as suggested before. (Don't lose the nut on the back!!)
 

Tanis143

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Already checked all that. Measured the resistance between the center post and the sidewall, showed an open connection. I've already pulled the entire top cap apart, even took the center post off the positive wire and cleaned under its contact. I've thoroughly cleaned everything with a cotton swab and alcohol then compressed air to make sure no cotton fibers were sticking around. Also, tried a couple of different carto's, and all of them fired fine on my silver bullet, so I KNOW its not a carto issue.

Also, the behavior its showing is systematic to a button failure. Everything works like it did before, it just wont fire. With no carto I get both red and blue lights, but when I put the carto on the blue light goes away showing that the circuit is now complete. If it was shorting out I wouldn't have a blue light at all regardless if the carto was on or not. Is there a way to pull the circuitry out so I can ohm out the switch while depressed?
 
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kempo63

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Already checked all that. Measured the resistance between the center post and the sidewall, showed an open connection. I've already pulled the entire top cap apart, even took the center post off the positive wire and cleaned under its contact. I've thoroughly cleaned everything with a cotton swab and alcohol then compressed air to make sure no cotton fibers were sticking around. Also, tried a couple of different carto's, and all of them fired fine on my silver bullet, so I KNOW its not a carto issue.

Also, the behavior its showing is systematic to a button failure. Everything works like it did before, it just wont fire. With no carto I get both red and blue lights, but when I put the carto on the blue light goes away showing that the circuit is now complete. If it was shorting out I wouldn't have a blue light at all regardless if the carto was on or not. Is there a way to pull the circuitry out so I can ohm out the switch while depressed?

Seems like you did check what you could so far. Are you able to measure 5v between top screw and gnd when holding fire button? I don't know if you can pull out the pcb to check the switch (dont' have an OB). Might be better to send it to the Buzzpital to have it checked out.
 
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