Is it safe?

[jmkdta]

Something else worth mentioning if it has an adjustable 510 pin, threads inside and outside to contend with.

I've been known to make a jig for things, squaring off the fence of a table-saw. I put the abrasive on the fence, and squared the jig by means of the adjustable miter of the tablesaw, by using the guide in the table-top.

If that makes sense!!

I kinda get what your saying. Unfortunately I only have a dremel tool. But I did find some screws that fit not I need to just trim the screws and it should be good.

 

[jmkdta]

It's up to you. Don't be a statistic.

Yea thats why I'm getting a longer center pin so my mech doesn't blow up in my face.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

I'm not familiar with that tank, but if the positive pin is long enough, you could possibly put a 1mm or 1.5mm thick oring (maybe a 2mm ID) under the head so that it sits between the head and the insulator. That would make the head jut out 1 or 1.5mm. You're basically just double insulating it.

That's assuming the screw is long enough to still be able to screw enough into the positive post of the deck to keep it secure without any wobble. Only you would be able to figure this out. I've done this with older RTAs before, as well as for coil heads.

 

[jmkdta]

I'm not familiar with that tank, but if the positive pin is long enough, you could possibly put a 1mm or 1.5mm thick oring (maybe a 2mm ID) under the head so that it sits between the head and the insulator. That would make the head jut out 1 or 1.5mm. You're basically just double insulating it.

That's assuming the screw is long enough to still be able to screw enough into the positive post of the deck to keep it secure without any wobble. Only you would be able to figure this out. I've done this with older RTAs before, as well as for coil heads.

It's would be close, if you turn the center pin a little bit the deck gets lose. Such a bummer a company wouldn't make their product safe to use on all devices, especially a high end rta.