Is it safe?

[jmkdta]

So recently I picked up a taifun gt4 pure glass rta and just noticed the center pin is basically flush with the 510 threads. Thankfully I know better than to put this on a mech. Now I'm bummed because all I use is mechs, the last vv/vw device I used was the provari p3.

I was thinking about replacing the center pin with a longer one. It seems like it's a regular hex screw.

Is this a bad idea? My paranoid side says it's not worth it, eat your loss and move on. My logical side is saying as long as the new pin is the same size just longer it will be fine.

What are your thoughts?

 

[ShamrockPat]

I was thinking about replacing the center pin with a longer one. It seems like it's a regular hex screw.

It is. Do you know the size?

............ My paranoid side says it's not worth it

Why not. You might not need longer at all. Reputable quality vendors like McMaster-Carr stock hex screws with different head sizes. The threaded/thinner section is the length, and then the head, which IIRC is either 1, 2, or 3mm.

Good luck.

 

[zoiDman]

...
Is this a bad idea? My paranoid side says it's not worth it, eat your loss and move on. My logical side is saying as long as the new pin is the same size just longer it will be fine.

What are your thoughts?

I have bought Many small machine screws over the years on e-Bay. Not sure where you are located? But most stuff like a handful of Screws can be had for less that $10 shipped.

In a worse case scenario, you could File/Sand Off .030" or .040" from the threads. But on a Fine thread like that, chances are you would just hose it up. Unless you have had some experience cutting down threads and forming a New Lead Thread.

Is of it worth it? I don't know? Do you like the way that RTA Hits? Do you like to Tinker with stuff in your spare time?

 

[jmkdta]

It is. Do you know the size?

Why not. You might not need longer at all. Reputable quality vendors like McMaster-Carr stock hex screws with different head sizes. The threaded/thinner section is the length, and then the head, which IIRC is either 1, 2, or 3mm.

Good luck.

I don't know the size, I might go to lowes today and see if I can get a right size.

Wow McMaster-Carr has alot! This site would have saved me so much time in the past! Thank you for this!

 

[jmkdta]

I have bought Many small machine screws over the years on e-Bay. Not sure where you are located? But most stuff like a handful of Screws can be had for less that $10 shipped.

In a worse case scenario, you could File/Sand Off .030" or .040" from the threads. But on a Fine thread like that, chances are you would just hose it up. Unless you have had some experience cutting down threads and forming a New Lead Thread.

Is of it worth it? I don't know? Do you like the way that RTA Hits? Do you like to Tinker with stuff in your spare time?

I have filed down 510 tread before because the the center pin was flush. It didn't look pretty but it worked. Funny thing is I haven't used it yet, so I'm not sure if I even like it lol. I'm going to try and get a longer center pin first before i bust out the dremal.

 

[zoiDman]

If you haven't tried that RTA yet, I would borrow someone's Regulated Mod and see how it hits.

Might be that you Don't like it. So you might not want to put the time into working on it.

 

[Real-ist]

I have filed down 510 tread before because the the center pin was flush. It didn't look pretty but it worked. Funny thing is I haven't used it yet, so I'm not sure if I even like it lol. I'm going to try and get a longer center pin first before i bust out the dremal.

Just a heads-up. If you file or grind anything threaded down, and do not have the means to re-dress the threads (if I can, I will usually thread a matching nut on first, so when removed, it will chase (re-align) the threads) the odds are against you, and the fitment will be compromised. IOW, you'll likely fork it up.

I can't stress this enough!

If you don't have the taps or dies for what you're going to do.......

Thread Files are a good thing to have!!!

 

[jmkdta]

Just a heads-up. If you file or grind anything threaded down, and do not have the means to re-dress the threads (if I can, I will usually thread a matching nut on first, so when removed, it will chase (re-align) the threads) the odds are against you, and the fitment will be compromised. IOW, you'll likely fork it up.

I can't stress this enough!

If you don't have the taps or dies for what you're going to do.......

Thread Files are a good thing to have!!!

Yea I don't have any of that. It would be a dremel and take off one or two threads but its my last option as I'll probably mess up the mod lol

 

[Real-ist]

Yea I don't have any of that. It would be a dremel and take off one or two threads but its my last option as I'll probably mess up the mod lol

I get the lure to modify, although if you don't have means to do it correctly, the modification may be at banking level....if you can find a suitable replacement.

Been there!!!!!

 

[ShamrockPat]

What are your thoughts?

Now I remember. While my other 2 taifuns (different models) do have hex screws, my GT4's (that's two, not GT4S) both have a straight slotted screw and they are proud of the body. Manual also shows a slot.

 

[borno]

I have an Asmodus rosefinch and it has a floating center pin, something like that might work without messing with it. (if you could find one)

 

[englishmick]

Just a heads-up. If you file or grind anything threaded down, and do not have the means to re-dress the threads (if I can, I will usually thread a matching nut on first, so when removed, it will chase (re-align) the threads) the odds are against you, and the fitment will be compromised. IOW, you'll likely fork it up.

I can't stress this enough!

If you don't have the taps or dies for what you're going to do.......

Thread Files are a good thing to have!!!

I ground down the threads on some tanks a few years ago so I could use them on a mech. I was going to use a dremel but on a tip from someone here I used a diamond pad that I got as a knife sharpener. It needs to be a new pad so there's no gouging from sharpening knives. And preferably it should be the type with a solid diamond surface rather than the type with the diamond laid on in strips with gaps between. Then clamp the pad in a vice.

If you're careful you can actually feel the flat of the 510 against the sharpener surface and keep it perfectly vertical. I did at least 2 tanks, a KFL and one other type, maybe Lemo. Because the diamond particles are small, and there's no speed or heat involved, there isn't any tearing of the metal and the thread isn't affected at all.

The only downside of using the diamond pad was it took a long time to take off the amount I needed. The result was perfect though.

 

[englishmick]

Another technique that someone suggested was putting small o-rings under the head of the screw to push it out a bit. I never tried that because I didn't have any o-rings the right size.

 

[jmkdta]

I ground down the threads on some tanks a few years ago so I could use them on a mech. I was going to use a dremel but on a tip from someone here I used a diamond pad that I got as a knife sharpener. It needs to be a new pad so there's no gouging from sharpening knives. And preferably it should be the type with a solid diamond surface rather than the type with the diamond laid on in strips with gaps between. Then clamp the pad in a vice.

If you're careful you can actually feel the flat of the 510 against the sharpener surface and keep it perfectly vertical. I did at least 2 tanks, a KFL and one other type, maybe Lemo. Because the diamond particles are small, and there's no speed or heat involved, there isn't any tearing of the metal and the thread isn't affected at all.

The only downside of using the diamond pad was it took a long time to take off the amount I needed. The result was perfect though.

I might try that if I screw doesn't work, it's just risky if you mess up the threads the tank is no good. Very little room for error.

 

[jmkdta]

Another technique that someone suggested was putting small o-rings under the head of the screw to push it out a bit. I never tried that because I didn't have any o-rings the right size.

I've heard of this technique as well, I think I have a small enough oring to try it.

 

[zoiDman]

I've heard of this technique as well, I think I have a small enough oring to try it.

If you don't, you can find stuff like that on e-Bay also.

2mm ID x 4mm OD x 1mm thick SILICONE O-ring. Quan 2. | eBay

Silicone material.

www.ebay.com

 

[Real-ist]

Something else worth mentioning if it has an adjustable 510 pin, threads inside and outside to contend with.

I've been known to make a jig for things, squaring off the fence of a table-saw. I put the abrasive on the fence, and squared the jig by means of the adjustable miter of the tablesaw, by using the guide in the table-top.

If that makes sense!!

 

[smacuser]

Looks good to me.

 

[jmkdta]

Looks good to me.

The center pin? That's the stock one, it's very close. Smokerstore doesn't even recommend using the taifun on a mech.

 

[smacuser]

It's up to you. Don't be a statistic.