Kanger Evods are popular clearomizers with the heating element and wicks at the bottom of a 1.6ml tank and replaceable or rebuildable coils. The original Kanger Evods suffer few problems, but there have been reports of leaking and gurgling by others, many of whom unwittingly bought clones of the Kanger product.
So how do you know whether an Evod is the real deal or a clone? There are some fairly easy ways to tell the difference.
Many people have reported no problems with clones. Some have.
I suspect that Kanger discountinued shipping different coil heads for the Evod and ProTank to at least temporarily foil the clone manufacturers by rendering their product unusable with the new replacement heads.
So how do you know whether an Evod is the real deal or a clone? There are some fairly easy ways to tell the difference.
- First of all, if it's white, it's a clone. Kanger does not make a white Evod.
- The original Evod has a base with three airholes, each at equal distances apart on a compass. There's one at 0 degrees, one at 120 and one at 240. Clones typically have only two, drilled at 0 and 180 degrees, respectively. The airholes on the original are in a line that's about 1/3 of the way down the base from where the base screws into the tank. Clones have holes that are halfway down.
- When properly installed and tightened into a genuine tank, the viewing window lines up perfectly with the button on an Evod or JoyeTech eGo threaded stick battery. The clones' window sometimes lines up, sometimes not.
- The original Evod tank's viewing window is 2.0cm long. The clones have a window that is 2.2cm long.
- Except for the brushed stainless version, the original Evod colors have a low gloss, low reflective matte finish, exactly like the finish found on Kanger Evod batteries. Clones come in higher gloss finish. The clones' finish is also less durable and more prone to getting scratched or nicked and letting the underlying metal show.
- The shoulder (the metal band between the tank and drip tip) is thin, smoother and rounded on a genuine Kanger Evod tank. Clones have a thicker shoulder with a perceptible edge that you can feel by sliding a fingernail down the drip tip towards the viewing window/tank portion.
- Clones have an air shaft that is 1-2 mm longer than the shaft in an original Evod. Some may also have a thinner inside diameter. This means that the old Evod coil heads (and clone coil heads) work in both the original and the clone. However, the ProTank coil heads don't match up with the longer shaft and/or thinner ID and the base can't be properly seated on the tank.
- Fully assembled, the clones are about 1-2 mm taller than the original.
Many people have reported no problems with clones. Some have.
I suspect that Kanger discountinued shipping different coil heads for the Evod and ProTank to at least temporarily foil the clone manufacturers by rendering their product unusable with the new replacement heads.
Last edited:
