How to Fix Stuff

Bronze

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Back in PA when I had 3 acres to mow I sure didn’t bag any grass! I had a commercial grade Exmark Lazer Z 60” mulching mower that cost about $6500 in 2003 or 2004. It was a beautiful machine but I don’t miss needing to use it.
Yeah, Exmark is big with contractors. Premium price but worth every penny if you’re a contractor.
 

MikeE3

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Wife wants a raised vegetable garden. Our yard is heavily wooded so there’s really only one place to put it that will get enough sun.and or twisting The spot has a slope in two directions so part of the “back wall” and side walls will be sitting 5-6 inches below grade to keep the too edge all around level.

I figure the walls will have to be either 5 2x6’s high (27.5 inches) or 4 2x8’s (29 inches) high to keep the partially sunken back wall at a height she wants. It will be 4 x 8 feet.

So, would you build it with 2 x 6’s or 2 x 8’s. The lumber will be cedar. I don’t know if one or the other would be better to minimize cupping or twisting as it ages. Or maybe I’m just over thinking it.
 
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cats5365

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Wife wants a raised vegetable garden. Our yard is heavily wooded so there’s really only one place to put it that will get enough sun.and or twisting The spot has a slope in two directions so part of the “back wall” and side walls will be sitting 5-6 inches below grade to keep the too edge all around level.

I figure the walls will have to be either 5 2x6’s high (27.5 inches) or 4 2x8’s (29 inches) high to keep the partially sunken back wall at a height she wants. It will be 4 x 8 feet.

So, would you build it with 2 x 6’s or 2 x 8’s. The lumber will be cedar. I don’t know if one or the other would be better to minimize cupping or twisting as it ages. Or maybe I’m just over thinking it.
Is there a huge price difference between the 6 and 8 inch boards? Are you going to have 4x4 fence posts around the bottom or other areas where the walls be be acting as retaining walls to keep the dirt from sliding down hill?

I'm imagining a box with 3 sides open to air, and 1 side in the hill. In that case, I would consider using the 8's to match up with a dirt-side wall of 4x4 posts and then the 2x8's on the 3 open sides. Any sections that will be below dirt would be made of 4x4 posts because I think the earth will eventually move enough to deform the flat boards.
 
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LAwaters

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Wife wants a raised vegetable garden. Our yard is heavily wooded so there’s really only one place to put it that will get enough sun.and or twisting The spot has a slope in two directions so part of the “back wall” and side walls will be sitting 5-6 inches below grade to keep the too edge all around level.

I figure the walls will have to be either 5 2x6’s high (27.5 inches) or 4 2x8’s (29 inches) high to keep the partially sunken back wall at a height she wants. It will be 4 x 8 feet.

So, would you build it with 2 x 6’s or 2 x 8’s. The lumber will be cedar. I don’t know if one or the other would be better to minimize cupping or twisting as it ages. Or maybe I’m just over thinking it.
Since garden beds are kept moist, you might want to look at sealing the inside of the walls with several coats of Garden Seal. It’s non-toxic and might help make the wood last a little longer.

I went with Birdies galvanized beds after watching multiple videos of gardeners saying they wished they hadn’t built wood beds. My favorite is a tall 8-in-1 that I filled halfway with large logs, branches and leaves - then added soil.
 

borno

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Wife wants a raised vegetable garden. Our yard is heavily wooded so there’s really only one place to put it that will get enough sun.and or twisting The spot has a slope in two directions so part of the “back wall” and side walls will be sitting 5-6 inches below grade to keep the too edge all around level.

I figure the walls will have to be either 5 2x6’s high (27.5 inches) or 4 2x8’s (29 inches) high to keep the partially sunken back wall at a height she wants. It will be 4 x 8 feet.

So, would you build it with 2 x 6’s or 2 x 8’s. The lumber will be cedar. I don’t know if one or the other would be better to minimize cupping or twisting as it ages. Or maybe I’m just over thinking it.
I had to try a raised bed when my old garden spot got too shaded by trees. I just went with 2 2x6's pressure treated and lined the wood with plastic. It's been working well enough for a few years. I just got a few plants yesterday, so now to turn it over. : )
 

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An cost effective way is buy local if you have a sawmill near by. Use slabs and just replace as needed. Most of the time they are just going to grind these up into mulch, buy the crew lunch and get a truckload.

Also unless you live in the Northern western half of the country cedar will be expensive. I would use what ever is local and untreated. Not only will treated wood leach into your garden, it is hard to depose of should decide to discard it, many landfills don't want it.
 
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borno

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I found they make a longer shark bite valve, if you have to replace an old valve without having to move the pipes too much. Of course I had to replace the old valve after I split the packing nut trying to tighten it instead of stuffing another ring in beforehand. These things are pricey, but I'm out of practice sweating on pipe fittings. lol

20240504_094336.jpg
 

hittman

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    I found they make a longer shark bite valve, if you have to replace an old valve without having to move the pipes too much. Of course I had to replace the old valve after I split the packing nut trying to tighten it instead of stuffing another ring in beforehand. These things are pricey, but I'm out of practice sweating on pipe fittings. lol

    View attachment 1012216
    I used shark bite fittings and valves when I replaced my water heater. They sure make it easier.
     

    MikeE3

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    The raised garden bed is moving along. I finished the site prep. The group slopes upward from the lower right corner to the upper left corner in the picture. There's about a 6 inch difference in elevation so it took some trenching to make a 'level' footprint for the 8x4 foot bed.

    My Pop told me that if you pick up a long handled tool you're going 'work'. All these years later I still remember his 'words'.

    IMG_7182.jpg

    IMG_7184.jpg


    And thanks to the person who suggested treating the cedar. All pieces are cut to size and have 2 coats of an organic food safe preservative.

    IMG_7198.jpg
     

    MikeE3

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    I need some advice on screwing. :blush:

    The corners will be 4x4's and I'm adding 2x4's between the 4x's. Might be overkill but I'm trying to prevent any cupping, warping, twisting, buckling, etc. of the boards over time.

    So the question is. Should I use 4 screws per board like on the right side of the picture. Or will 2 be sufficient like on the left side. Likewise for the 2x4's - 2 screws per board or 4.

    thanks for your advice.

    IMG_7203 copy.jpg
     

    zoiDman

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    I need some advice on screwing. :blush:

    The corners will be 4x4's and I'm adding 2x4's between the 4x's. Might be overkill but I'm trying to prevent any cupping, warping, twisting, buckling, etc. of the boards over time.

    So the question is. Should I use 4 screws per board like on the right side of the picture. Or will 2 be sufficient like on the left side. Likewise for the 2x4's - 2 screws per board or 4.

    thanks for your advice.

    View attachment 1012387

    I'd use 3/8" Hot Dip Galvanized Lag Screws and put one at the Top and the Bottom (like in the Lower L/H Corner of your picture) of the 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 Side Panels.

    3/8" is kinda overkill. A 5/16" or even a 1/4" Lag Screw would probably work fine. But I've found it is easier to Pilot Drill for a 3/8" Lag Screw using a 11/64" or 1/4" Drill verses trying to to a 3" Deep Pilot Hole that is only 3/16" or so. LOL

    Something like these


    Be sure to make a 2 or 3 Pyramid washer stack using a 3/8" and then a 1/2" (or Two) Hot Dipped Washer.

    BTW - If you're going to Stain the Wood when you are finished, I'd do it Before you put things together. Especially on all the End-Grain.
     
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    Bronze

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    zoiDman

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    Something to consider




    That's Funny. Because I was at HD Yesterday and I walked right past those. I couldn't quite figure out what those were for?

    LOL
     

    MikeE3

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    BTW - If you're going to Stain the Wood when you are finished, I'd do it Before you put things together. Especially on all the End-Grain.

    That part's already done with a food grade preservative ... no other stain is being used.

    hmmm, I hadn't considered lag screws. Food for thought indeed. And why the stacked pyramid of washers instead of just one?

    Something to consider



    I looked into those early on. A friend used them last year when he built a box for his wife. At my home depot I can only buy them by the pallet load for about $1500. Would make a lot of garden planters with all those blocks. I even checked home depots within a 50 mile radius and couldn't find them.

    Screenshot 2024-05-07 at 7.46.10 PM.jpg



    Screenshot 2024-05-07 at 7.55.52 PM.png



    Lowes has a similar one. It's round not square and they are available around me. I just didn't want the 'stick outs' of the stones. I wanted a 'smooth' edge for mowing around it. Didn't want the stones sticking out on the corners and middle of the long wall. It does make a good looking garden box though. And the stones are a lot cheaper than a piece of 4x4 cedar lumber. (good Lord, for what I've paid for the cedar lumber the wife could buy a truck load of organically grown veggies).

    Here's the one my buddy built.


    IMG_6632-500.jpg
     
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    zoiDman

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    ... And why the stacked pyramid of washers instead of just one?

    Do'in an Egyptian Style Washer Stake shares load over a Larger Area. Which is always a Good Thing.

    And face it, they dust Don't make washers out of very good steel anymore when you buy them at a Big Box store like HD or Lowes.

    So a Washer Stake doesn't tend to Sink into wood like a Single washer can. Or deform because the Foreign Supplier has been jacking the certs around making their washers look stronger then they really are.
     
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