eRolls with SS wicks...

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rico942

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Still liking the ekowool for the Type A attys. Had two of them rewicked in the Ovale Elips, which gunks up the coil at the first dry hit. Apparently the ekowool is delivering juice to the coil at least as well as stainless mesh, and with no alteration in flavor that I can detect ...

(I believe the Elips dry burns more than the eRoll because of the tank design, the tank starts to leak when less than half full, it relies entirely on surface tension to maintain a seal. Once the tank bleeds out, the next hit will often burn the stock silica wick, leaving a disgusting taste that can only be remedied with a dry burn and rewicking, it never seems to "fix" itself. But the quality of the vape is so good that its worth the hassle ...)

So if the ekowool wick can survive the Elips, it should be trouble-free in the eRoll, less harsh conditions ...

I opened one up after two days of constant use and three tank refills, the wick was still white and clean, and fluffed out over the entire length of the coil ...

The foot long piece of wick that I got for $1.95 will probably last me forever ... :D
 

rico942

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Thanks for the updates on the ekowool test! I've got some 1.5mm ekowool I might try... as in, if yours doesn't gunk up, I will :D

The 1.5mm wick should be perfect ...

The 1mm was a bit loose, and the 2mm would be so compressed that it might diminish the flow ...

I've really tried my best to burn these wicks, chain vaping like crazy until the atty is almost too hot to touch, and the wick is still clean. Even the stainless steel would allow crud to accumulate on the coil sometimes, if pushed too hard ...
 

Hermit

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The 1.5mm ekowool might be perfect, but I couldn't manage to get it in there! Maybe someone will think of a way.

So I tried some 1mm, but with the tiny piece of mesh that is in the stock Joye heads wrapped around it. It's a pretty snug fit, but vapes pretty well - no dry hits or flooding so far. I'm not really sure how that bit of mesh affects the wicking. It does help get the wick in the hole though!

On the whole I think SS wick is a tad better, and easier. There might be more steps, but none are anything like as fiddly :)
 

rico942

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The 1.5mm ekowool might be perfect, but I couldn't manage to get it in there! Maybe someone will think of a way.

So I tried some 1mm, but with the tiny piece of mesh that is in the stock Joye heads wrapped around it. It's a pretty snug fit, but vapes pretty well - no dry hits or flooding so far. I'm not really sure how that bit of mesh affects the wicking. It does help get the wick in the hole though!

On the whole I think SS wick is a tad better, and easier. There might be more steps, but none are anything like as fiddly :)

I actually got a piece of the 2mm ekowool through the spike by wetting it with alcohol first, but it wasn't easy, and didn't wick very well when packed that tight ...

Your technique of using the stock mesh ring gives me an idea. I once tried a stainless steel mesh wick with cotton in the center, but the cotton tasted funny and burned quickly. I'm going to try wrapping one layer of mesh around the ekowool wick stock, to keep it from fraying out during assembly. My thinking is that a mesh wick with a "soft" center should have the advantages of both, rigid but with optimum juice flow ...

I had two ekowool-wicked attys go sour on me this weekend. In both cases, the ekowool just came loose and dropped into the case. The 1mm is too loose and subject to movement, it comes unravelled. Maybe a wrapping of stainless steel mesh will prevent this ?

In any case, its fun to experiment with different combinations of wick material, in pursuit of the "perfect" wick ... :D
 

rico942

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I've had a run of bad luck with the ekowool wicks ... :(

Two of them went burnt this morning in both of the Elips units I carry every day. I'm totally dependent on the eRoll now, which is OK, but I may run the tanks dry, and didn't bring any spares ...

I suppose I could swap the attys from the eRoll to the Elips ...

Lesson learned, bring spare tanks and attys in the car ...

I dont think I can blame the wicks entirely. I think I need to clean the atty chambers more thoroughly. Dry burning just cleans the coils, but there could be bad-tasting gunk down in the chamber that the alcohol soak is not getting to ...

And there must be a limit to how many times an atty can be rewicked, before the coil gives out ...

I have about 20 attys in rotation, and so far only one coil has popped when dry burning. Not going to try to re-coil it, when I gat down to the last 4 or 5 I'll order more.
 

patkin

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So far, I haven't been able to recoil any "disposable" atty I have... Eroll or clearos. I don't have hands the size of a man so I don't know how on earth they do it. I use a head magnifier so seeing isn't the problem... the fingers are. :oops: I'm going to look for whatever is considered a huge working space RBA to have in backup for my other batteries. I'm looking at a SMOK RSST that uses a mesh wick and searching youtubes that show the workspace unmagnified to get an idea.
 

Nyght

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Well... I finally had an atty that constantly tasted burnt. Thus, I did a stainless wick. :/ I can't say I'm thrilled. It seems to have 'dry' runs. I read over the ekowool comments and am tempted to try that too.

Maybe I wrapped too much stainless, but I don't think so. I followed what the vid said fairly directly. (But, hey! I did it :D Didn't have to call in for help LOL)

I'll try cutting it down a bit. My problem seems to be that there's little bubbles that collect at the hole where it drips. Not quite the normal problem others seem to not run into. It also seems like it's just on this atty... maybe the sharp 'needle' got scuffed somehow and that's why it's only with this one. :( I actually thought about keeping a quarter inch of wick to try and 'wick' the juice from the tank into the atty.

Eh, at least I have an atty to experiment with :D
 

patkin

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In my rather meager experience trying to rewick, I found that if whatever material is used, if its packed in there too tightly, the first couple of puffs are okay but then come dry hits. Mine were always too tight because I was afraid of one falling onto the coil and burning. Actually, I think the company packs them loosely as I found a lot of the flavoring wicks sitting on the coil burnt. Oh well, rewicking just is not my cup of tea... at least not on anything I've tried so far including Erolls. I thought clearos... ismoka, T3s, EVOD (Protank) would be easier just changing flavor wicks but man they're hard to break into so haven't given those a good try. But, I have learned one thing making the Eroll excellent choice again. The ismoka coils die pretty fast and Eroll ones just keep truckin on. I have at least 5 ismoka coils die every month. So, though Eroll atties look way more expensie, they're not considering their longevity.
 

rico942

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Thinking back over my re-wicking efforts, it occurs to me that the difference between "good" and "bad" might be this ...

When I prime the wick, I use a needle tip bottle, and apply about 10 to 15 small drops to the angled end of the atty spike. If the juice wicks quickly, it will probably be a good one. But on some, the drops build up on the tip of the spike, not much absorption. I guess it should have been obvious to me that these would dry burn ...

The best re-wicks I've had so far have been stainless steel from a piece of wick stock that was wrapped tight on the outside, but had a visible open "tube" through the center. I have two attys like this, and they have been going strong for weeks now ...

I think the trick might be to leave a little open channel at the center of the SS wick, and watch to see that it sucks up the juice quickly when priming it ... :D
 

patkin

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I got the idea from riptripper on youtube. He has one answering questions about mesh and, by it, I got that 250 or 275 is better for 100% VG and 350/400 for PG/VG. That's what made me think 250/275 would let more juice flow serving the purpose of an open shaft in the tighter mesh. I guess, really, when we discuss mesh we should to be saying what ratio juice we're using.
 

jjcordone

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I finally got around to trying this and wish I had done it sooner, what a difference!
I took a couple of retired atomizers, cleaned them out and put in the SS wick, very simple to do.
I'm amazed at the difference it made! It increased the vapor production and improved the flavor.
I think I'll be doing this to even new ones from now on. I wonder why Joyetech doesn't make an SS version themselves.
It would bring some new life to an old design :)
 

patkin

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They may have opted not to use a SS mesh flavor wick due to shorting concerns if it happens to drop onto the coil. I know I've found the silica ones sitting on the coil. They may just not want to deal with such tight tolerances or building the required carbon layer to avoid shorts in case it does drop in mass production.
 
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jav74

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I finally got around to trying this and wish I had done it sooner, what a difference!
I took a couple of retired atomizers, cleaned them out and put in the SS wick, very simple to do.
I'm amazed at the difference it made! It increased the vapor production and improved the flavor.
I think I'll be doing this to even new ones from now on. I wonder why Joyetech doesn't make an SS version themselves.
It would bring some new life to an old design :)

What mesh you are use?400?is it dimension 6mmx40mm,did you leave tube inside with rolling around paperclip.tell me your method please
 

rico942

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I wonder why Joyetech doesn't make an SS version themselves.
It would bring some new life to an old design :)

Just being cynical, but maybe they don't want the attys to last longer. Most users are buying the 5-packs regularly. I did that four times, then started rewicking them with various materials other than silica, which seems to have a built-in obsolesence ...

The coils seem to last for months, I've only lost one, and that was from mis-handling, I broke the solder joint ...

Somebody more patient and skilled than me could probably re-coil the Type-As, and make them last indefinitely ...
 

jjcordone

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Hi Jav74 - I bought some pre-rolled/pre-oxidized 400 mesh wicks from Good Prophets.
They were too fat to fit into the spike, so I simply rolled it between my fingers till it fit.
The first atomizer I did worked flawlessly and it was simple and quick.
Dumb luck on my first try. The next two I did were terrible.
I remembered Hermit and Rico942's comments above.
The first one I had done visually wicked when being primed.
The second two didn't wick the same, they beaded up.
I put a thin sewing needle into the center opening of the wick, then rolled it between my fingers.
This thinned it out, but kept the center hole in place.
Worked like a charm:) The new ones I did now visually wicked when primed and they work fantastic.

I also noticed that getting them to the correct length is important.
Inserted into the spike until you fell it hit the coil, back it out just a hair, them trim it to the angle of the spike.
Make sure you don't seal the center whole as you trim it or your back to the wicking issue again......

I hope this helps!
 
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